IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


y 


A* 


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7i 


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1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


M^WIA    12.5 

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Photograpbc 

SdHices 

Corporation 


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23  WiST  MAIN  S^SIIT 

WE»STM,N.Y.  145M 

(716)  «72-4503 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  MIcroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  hJstorlques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  tachniquat  at  bibliof^raphiquaa 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avaliabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibllographlcaily  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproductlon,  or  which  may  aigniflcantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I   Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurto  at/ou  palllculAa 

Covar  titia  miaaing/ 

La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  mapa/ 

Cartaa  gtegra!>hiquaa  an  coulaur 


□   Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encrc  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

I     I   Colourad  platM  and/or  illuatrationa/ 


D 


Planchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  material/ 
RallA  avac  d'autraa  documanta 


Tight  binding  may  cauaa  ahadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrAe  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  do  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marge  inttrieure 

Blank  iaevea  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  tha  text.  Whenever  poasible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  taxte, 
meis.  lorsque  cela  4tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilmA  la  mailleur  exempleire 
qu'il  lui  a  At4  poaaible  de  se  procurer.  Les  dAtaila 
da  cat  exemplaire  qui  aont  paut-Atre  uniquea  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  Image  reprodulte,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  norinale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquto  c<-dessous. 


I     I   Coloured  pagea/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6ea 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurtes  at/ou  pelliculAea 

Pages  diacolourad,  stained  or  foxe< 
Pages  dAcolorAes,  tachatAes  ou  piqu4es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachAes 

Showthrouglv 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

QualitA  InAgala  de  I'lmpression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  matAriai  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponlble 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

r~n  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~n  Pages  diacolourad,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I     I  Pages  detached/ 

r~|  Showthrough/ 

r~n  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

|~1  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possibis  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  6tA  filmtes  A  nouveau  de  fa9on  h 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


to 


Til 
po 
of 
fill 


Or 
ba 
th( 
sic 

oti 
fin 
sic 
or 


Th 
shi 
Til 
wt 

Ml 
dif 
en 
be 
rig 
re( 
m« 


This  item  is  filmed  et  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  f  ilmi  eu  taux  da  reduction  indlqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

[~ 

V 

12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  fMm«d  h«r«  hat  b««n  r«produc«d  thankt 
to  tho  gonorotity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  ArcMvei  of  British  Columbia 


L'oxomplairo  f  llmA  ffut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
gAnAroait*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacif icationa. 


Original  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  fiimad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuttratad  impraa- 
sion.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  fiimad  baginning  on  tha 
firat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuttratad  imprat- 
tion.  and  anding  on  tha  latt  paga  with  a  printfctl 
or  illuatratad  imprattion. 


Tha  latt  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
thall  contain  tha  tymbol  — ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  tymbol  V  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  appliat. 

IMapt.  plataa.  chartt.  ate.  may  ba  fiimad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratiot.  Thota  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  included  in  ona  axpotura  ara  fiimad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  at  many  framet  at 
required.  The  following  diagramt  illuttrate  the 
method: 


1  2  3 


Lea  imagaa  auivantaa  ont  At*  reproduitet  avac  la 
plua  grand  aoin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattetA  da  reKemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  lea  conditiont  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 

Lea  exemplairat  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  imprimAe  aont  filmAa  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  an  terminent  aoit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinvj 
d'imprettion  ou  d'illuttration.  toit  par  la  tecond 
plat,  talon  la  caa.  Tout  let  autret  exemplairat 
originaux  tont  filmte  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'imprettion  ou  d'illuttration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  det  tymbolet  tuivantt  apparaltra  tur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  telon  le 
caa:  le  tymbole  — ►  tignifie  "A  SUIVRE".  ie 
tymbole  V  tignifie  "FIN". 

Let  cartet.  planchet.  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  il  det  taux  de  rAduction  diffArentt. 
Lortque  le  document  ett  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  en  un  teul  clich*.  il  est  film*  A  pertir 
de  I'angle  tupArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bat.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imaget  nAcetteire.  Let  diegrammet  tuivantt 
illuttrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

C( 


•m^h'Wi' ' 


ALASKA. 


1  8  Q  Q. 


COPPER  RIVER  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


n  W.  R.  ABERCROMBIE,  Second  U.  S.  In&ntry, 

COMMANDING^. 


WASHINGTON: 

aOVERNMBNT   PRINTING   OFFICE. 
1900. 


Ticjo 


Re) 


Sub 


Sub 


CONTENTS. 


iMge. 
Report  of  Capt.  W.  R.  Abercrombie,  Second  United  States  Infantry: 

Secretary  of  War  Root's  letter  of  transmittal 7 

Orders  and  special  instructions 9 

Narrative  of  journey  from  Washington,  D.  C,  to  Valdez,  via  Fort 

Keogh,  Livingston,  and  Seattle 11 

Selection  of  skilled  men  for  trail  crew 12 

.How  the  expedition  was  outfitted 12-13 

Arrival  of  exiiedition  at  Valdez 14 

A  vivid  pen  sketeh  of  scenes  at  Valdez 15 

The  dreaded  scoui<ge  of  scurvy 15 

Quartermaster's  Agent  Brown's  sententious  exclamation  on  the  situation 

among  prospectors 15 

A  thrilling  description  of  a  "glacial  demon  "  by  a  crazed  Swede 16 

Scenes  at  disembarkation  at  Valdez 16-17 

How  destitute  miners  and  prospectors  were  relievetl 17-18 

Lock  of  practical  knowledge  of  mining  by  the  average  p.ospet^t^r 18-19 

How  the  liquor  traffic  was  throttled  at  Valdez 20-21 

Construction  of  trans-Alaskan  military  road 21-26 

Establishment  of  an  American  postal  service 26-27 

Exploration  of  the  Copper  River  drainage  during  season  of  1899 27 

Valdez  and  its  advantages  as  a  port 27-28 

Mineral  and  agricultural  resources  of  the  Copper  River  Valley 28-29 

Freight  mtes  of  marine  transportation  from  Seattle  to  Yukon  River 

points 30 

Prospective  profits  for  cattle  speculators  in  the  Copper  River  Valley 

region 30 

Animals  best  adapted  for  service  in  Alaska 30 

The  best  pack  saddles  for  service  in  Alaska 31-32 

Necessity  for  a  large  hay  meadow  reservation  in  Alaska 33 

Of  what  the  cantonment  at  Valdez  conslstH 34 

Recommendations  for  the  season  of  1900 35-36 

Subreport  of  Charles  Brown,  Quartermaster's  agent: 

Terrible  sufferings  on  the  Valdez  glacier 37-38 

The  reign  of  scurvy  in  the  Lower  Copper  River  region 38 

Horrible  deaths  on  the  Valdez  glacier 38 

How  scurvy  patients  and  destitute  persons  were  relieved 39--40 

The  swarms  offish  in  Valdez  Bay 42 

Repairs  and  improvements  at  Valdez 42-43 

Subreport  of  Dr.  Leroy  J.  Townsend: 

A  diagnosis  of  scurvy 44-46 

Preventive  measures 46 

3 


31664 


CONTENTS. 


Stibreport  of  H.  L.  Wilson,  jr. :  ?■««. 
What  membere  of  the  Wilson  Mining  Company  suffered  in  searching 

for  gold 48 

The  hardship  of  lining  boats  up  the  Copper  River 40 

The  disaster  at  Childs  glacier .....  60 

How  swells  caused  by  glacier  " dumps "  are  avoi<letl 60 

Return  of  the  Wilson  Mining  Company's  expedition 63-64 

Subreport  No.  1  of  John  F.  Rice: 

From  Valdess  to  Khitena  via  the  Valdes  glacier 66 

Blizisanl  experiences  on  Valdez  glacier 66 

Subreport  of  Lieut.  Walter  C.  Babcock,  Eighth  United  States  Cavalry: 

Location  and  construction  of  the  trans-Alaskan  military  road ,  68-62 

Trend  of  the  Keystone  Canyon 62 

Bridge  construction 62-64 

Where  military  roa<l  terminat'^js 64 

Advance  location  for  the  military  road .' 66 

Scetiee  and  incidents  from  Thompson  Pass  to  the  South  Fork  of  Tiek- 

ell  River 66-67 

Exploration  of  the  Quartz  Creek  Valley  and  Tonsena  Lake 70 

Placer  mining  on  Quartz  Creek 71 

Picturesque  location  of  Tonsena  or  Archer  Lake 71 

Wonderful  game  facilities  of  the  Tonsena  River  region 72 

Abandoned  camp  of  the  Manhattan  Mining  Company 73 

An  experience  with  earthquakes 73-74 

The  agricultural  possibiHt^  jb  of  the  Kanata  region 74r-76 

Course  of  the  military  rood  through  the  Kanata  Valley 76 

Source  of  the  Kanata 76 

Availability  of  the  Bernard  Creek  valley  for  a  military  road 76-70 

Return  to  Valdez 80-81 

Summary  of  construction  work 82 

Comparative  cost  of  construction  of  military  roads 82 

Remarks  and  recommendations 83 

Photographic  report 84 

Meteorological  report 86-87 

Subreport  No.  1  of  Oscar  Rohn: 

Explorations  in  Wrangell  Mourtain  district 88 

Trails  and  routes 88-00 

How  Mount  Wrangell  is  reached 00 

Difficulties  of  traveling  through  an  unknown  wilderness  with  a  pack 

train 00-^1 

Achapteron  cartography 01-04 

Subreport  No.  2  of  John  F.  Rice: 

From  Valdez  to  Eagle  City  on  the  Yukon 06 

Personnel  of  the  expedition 06 

How  Coast  Range  was  passed 96 

Agricultural  resources  of  the  Mosquito  Valley 96 

A  brief  sketch  of  Franklin  gulch -. 00-100 

Eagle  aty  in  1800 101 

The  trans- Alaskan  route , 103 

Food  and  timber  resonrces  between  Valdez  and  Eagle  City 108-104 

Subreport  No.  2  of  Oscar  Rohn,  topographical  engineer. 

Of  what  the  country  around  Valdez  consists 106 

Topography  of  country  in  the  interior 106-110 

Mineral  resources  of  the  Copper  River  valley 110 

Narrative  and  itinerary 112-130 


0ONTENT8. 


Sabrepoi't  of  Addison  M.  Powell,  guide:  Pam. 

Exploration  of  the  Gakona  and  Oheetochena  rivers 131 

How  Mount  Wrangell  "smoked  up" 132 

Qold  on  the  Chestochena 133 

Trip  down  the  Chestochena 134 

Battle  with  the  cold  at  Copper  Center I3h 

Geology  of  Alaskan  Range 136 

Animals  and  insects  of  the  Copper  River  valley 137-138 

Snbreport  of  Edward  Gillette,  engineer: 

Lack  of  good  harbors  on  the  southern  Alaskan  coast 139 

Description  of  routes  from  Seattle  to  Skagray 139-140 

Description  of  Valdex  Bay 140 

Views  on  the  practicability  of  a  railroad  route  up  Lowe  River 141-146 

Recommendations  on  gauge  of  railroad  lines 146 

Comparison  of  Lowe  River  route  with  White  Pass  and  Yukon  Railroad.  146-147 

Trade  of  Central  Alaska 147 

Value  of  the  main  lines  of  railroad  from  Valdee  to  the  Yukon 147-148 

Value  of  railroad  to  the  United  States 147-148 

Cost  of  railroad  line 148-149 

Subreport  of  H.  Brian  Pearson: 

General  outline  of  the  Upper  Tanana  Basin 160 

General  geological  features  of  basin 150 

Timber  resources  of  basin 151 

Sketch  of  trail  frori  Copper  River  Basin  to  the  Upper  Tanana 151 

Subreport  No.  3  of  Oscar  Rohn: 

ExplOiHtion  of  Wrangell  Mountain  district 154-159 

Glaciers  of  the  Wrangell  Mountain 150-160 

Subreport  of  Edward  Cashman: 

Story  of  a  trip  from  Valdez  to  Copper  Center 161 

A  thrilling  experience  with  ice  jams 102 

The  hospitality  of  Alaskan  Indians  illustrated 163 

An  exciting  experience  with  wild  horses  at  Wood  Canyon 164-165 

How  one  feels  whea  the  mercury  is  66°  below  zero 166 

Christmas  time  at  Copper  Center 167 

Musical  Indians 168 

How  Alaskan  Indians  treat  their  children 169 

How  Alaskan  women  drees '. l70 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


War  Department, 
Wanhlmjton,  Jamuiry  S3,  1900. 
Sir:  Agreeably  with  Senate   roHolution  dated  January  22,  1900, 
directing  the  Secretary  of  War — 

"to  trensniit  to  the  Senate  the  report  uf  Capt.  W.  U.  Aberurombie  on  the  Copper 
River  Exploring  Expeilition  to  Alaaka," 

I  have  the  honor  to  tranHDiit  herewith  a  report  by  Capt.  W.  R. 
Abercrombie,  Second  United  StateH  Infantry,  conunanding  Copper 
River  Exploring  Expedition,  of  consti-uction  work  on  tho  tranH- 
Alaskan  military  road  and  explorations  in  the  Chettyna  Valley  during 
the  season  of  1899,  which  embraces  the  operations  of  the  expedition 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Abercrombie  during  the  year  1899. 

Very  respectfully, 

Elihu  Root, 

Secretary  of  War. 
Hon.  William  P.  Frye, 

l\e»ideiit  jrro  tempore  United  States  SencUe. 

7 


COPPER  RIVER  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


N()TK.— NiiimIn!I'h  III  ha«« 


'  tyi>«  III  iNNly  of  n)|i<)rt  rt-fur  to  iiiiiiiImtm  of  tliu  |iluit<>KrH|iliN  MubiiilttttI 
lii-n^with. 


WArtiiiNt.TON,  D.  CJaniKiry  10^  l.'HJO. 
Sib:  I  havf  tho  ).-  r.ot- to Huhinit  hurewitli  ri'ixnt of  tho  rucfiit  i^xplo- 
i-utions  in  uiul  th   i  jiiHtruction  of  n  iiiilit4ii'y  routu  throu);h  thut  ]M>rtion 
of  Ceiitml  i\\  ika  k!')wn  astht)  "Coppiir  Kiv<M'di8trict,"  under  and  l»y 
virtue  of  tb«»  toIlowMig  n-dcrs  and  inHtructions: 


(iKNKKAI.  OkUKIW,  ~{ 
No.  51.  / 


lliMtiiH.  uy  run  Akmy,  Aimutant-Grnkkai/m  Oppkk, 

Wwthhigtun,  March  m,  IS'M. 


AVak  Pkpautmknt, 
WwAJnj/to.,  March  17,  189U. 
A  military  jxptHlitidti  furoxplorinp;  piirpomfl  \u  Alaxka  will  he  urganizotl  an  fullowH, 
anil  known  of)  tliu  Copiiur  Kivvr  F^xplorinK  KxiHMlition,  and  will  l)o  annouiu^d  iu 
ordont: 

1.  Ca|>t.  \V.  R.  Al»r«;r()mbio,  Second  United  StatcH  In'antry,  coininan<1ing;  Htu^ond 
Lieut.  AV.  C.  BalK^ock,  Eighth  United  HtateM  Cavalry;  one  at'ting  uiwiHtant  Hiirneon, 
one  hoHpitul  Hteward,  one  coniuiiflsary  nergeant,  two  nonconinuHt^ioned  ofTloerH  and 
eight  privateH  of  infantry,  of  whom  two  Mhall  lie  cookB,  fully  equipiwd  and  Hupplieil 
to  Novemlxjr  .10.  1899,  will  pro<»e«l  to  Valdea,  on  Prince  William  Sound,  Alanka,  on 
or  almut  the  IBth  proximo,  and  there  cHtahliHli  a  camp  ivml  depot.  From  Valdes!  the 
expe<lition  will  open  up  a  military  road  to  Copjier  Center,  and  from  the  laut-named 
ix»int  by  the  moHt  direct  and  practicable  route  to  I'^le  City. 

2.  The  route  altove  outline<l  from  the  coiwt  \a)  Eagle  City  will  lie  carefully  Hurvj'yed, 
triauKulatetl,  noting  elevatiouH,  deprcmionH,  an<l  other  featun>H,  aiul  tthould  Ik^  d<*tl- 
nitely  l(K«te<l  and  proiwrly  marked  on  either  Hiiie  oh  far  an  pnwticable,  in  order  that 
it  may  be  known  and  used  as  a  route  of  travel  by  the  public. 

3.  The  ccminiAndirg  ofHcer  will  Helect  Huitable  liHtations  at  Valdez,  Copper  Center, 
the  crossing  of  the  Upper  Copiier,  the  crossing  <if  the  Tanana,  the  \ww\  of  Forty  Mile 
Creek,  and  at  such  other  points  us  in  his  judgment  he  may  deem  proijer  for  military 
reservations,  and  will  survey,  layout  by  metes  and  lH>unds,  an<l  declare  such  reserva- 
tions, reporting  his  action  hereunder  to  the  Department  for  the  approval  of  the 
Secretary  of  War. 

4.  This  expedition  will  cover  as  much  territory  as  possible,  and  will  collect  and 
incorporate  in  the  reports  all  information  that  may  be  valuable  to  the  development 
of  the  country  explored  regardhig  topographical  features,  available  routes  of  travel, 
feasible  routes  for  railroad  cunntruction,  adaptability  for  agriculture  ami  stock  raising, 
mineral  resources,  timber,  fuel,  food  products,  and  the  stock  best  suited  for  food  and 
transportation  purposes;  the  number,  location,  and  condition  of  the  natives  of  the 
tenitory  explored.    Maps  and  photographs  will  accompany  all  reports. 

9 


10 


COPPEB   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


5.  The  commanding  officer  of  the  expe<Htion  is  authorized  to  employ  the  necessary 
Indians,  natives  of  Alaska,  for  duty  with  the  expedition  as  guides  for  such  periods  of 
time  as  may  Ins  necessary. 

Tlie  Quartermaster's  DeiNirtment  will  furnish  the  necessary  transportatioii. 

G.  D.  MEfKLEJOHN, 

Acting  Se<rrdanj  of  War. 
By  comuian<l  of  Major-General  Miles: 

H.  C.  CtiiUJiN, 

Adjutant-General. 


Wak  Department, 
Wanhingtim,  March  17,  1S99, 
Ca]»t.  W.  U.  Abekcrombie, 

Ifkcoml  United  States  Infantry, 

Commanding  Copper  River  Kvploring  Expedition,  Washington,  D.  C. 
Sir:  I  hand  you  herewith  for  your  instructions  and  guidance  copy  of  order  issued 
this  date,  providing  for  the  organization  of  the  Copper  River  Exploring  £x])edition. 
In  addition  to  the  military  personnel  of  your  command  as  therein  indicate<l  you 
are  authorized  to  employ  the  following  employees  upon  the  terms  indicated: 

1  surveyor,  at  $250  per  month  and  rations. 

1  assistant  surveyor,  at  $100  per  month  and  rations. 

2  guides,  at  $150  per  month  and  rations. 

2  topographers,  at  $125  per  month  and  rations. 

1  (d'jrk,  at  $100  per  month  and  rations. 

1  chief  packer,  at  $75  per  month  and  rations. 

8  imckers,  at  $60  per  month  and  rations. 

1  pilot,  at  $75  per  month  and  rations. 

1  engineer,  at  $75  per  month  and  rations. 

1  fireman,  at  $50  per  month  and  rations. 

1  foreman,  at  $75  i>er  month  and  rations. 
15  axmen,  at  $50  per  month  and  rations. 

2  (»oks,  at  $50  per  month  and  rations. 

4  rockmen,  at  $75  per  month  and  rations. 

Thest^  employees  will  be  paid  from  appropriations  of  the  Quartermaster's  Depart- 
ment. 

You  are  also  authorized  to  employ  the  necessary  Indians,  natives  of  Alaska,  as 
guides  for  the  different  detaclunents  of  your  command,  for  temporary  wsrvice,  at  the 
current  rate  of  wage  at  the  place  of  employment. 

You  will  be  furnished  with  a  sufficient  number  of  copies  of  maps  i'oinpile<i  in  this 
Department,  and  publishe<l  by  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  \  hich  contain 
the  latest  information  in  regard  to  Alaska,  at  the  earliest  pnu;ticable  Uute. 

The  expedition  will  return  from  the  territory  indicated  in  onler  to  ■  acii  iJie  coast 
before  the  close  of  navigation,  and  the  return  trip  may  be  made  via  St.  Michaels, 
Valdez,  or  Skaguay,  as  the  (commanding  officer  may  in  his  judgment  deem  proper. 

As  soon  as  practicable  after  your  arrival  at  your  permanent  camp  at  Valdez  you 
will  report  any  insufficiency  in  supplies  or  equipment,  and  will  rep<»rt  to  these  head- 
quarters by  every  opportunity  the  progress,  condition,  results,  and  all  valuable  infor- 
mation concerning  your  expedition  and  the  work  accomplished  and  projected. 

You  are  authorized  in  your  judgment  and  discretion  to  nodify  and  increase  the 
rations  furnished  for  your  command  while  actually  employed  in  the  Territory. 

There  will  be  placed  to  your  credit  at  a  designate<i  depository,  in  the  city  of  San 
Francisco,  the  sum  of  $6,000,  with  which  you  are  to  meet  the  contingencies  of  your 
expedition. 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


11 


Referring  to  Paragraph  III  of  your  orders,  you  aro  directed  to  eetablish  a  small 
detachment  at  each  of  the  military  reservations  which  you  may  declare,  and  provide 
for  them  such  permanent  quarters  as  you  may  find  it  practicable  to  erect  under  the 
circumstances. 

You  will  make  a  careful  examination  of  the  fish  industry  in  that  country  and  report 
everything  bearing  upon  this  subject  that  will  be  of  value. 

At  Copper  Center  a  full  and  complete  examination  will  be  made  of  the  Copper 
River,  with  a  view  to  locating  the  most  practicable  crossing.  A  similar  examination 
will  he  made  for  the  purpose  of  locating  the  best  crossing  of  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Copi>er  River,  and  also  the  most  desirable  {lassage  of  the  Tanana.  In  reporting 
thereon  state  definitely  location  of  crossings,  depth  of  water,  width  of  stream,  and 
whether  conditions  will  permit  fording  or  the  operation  of  ferries. 

The  passes  over  the  glaciers  and  through  the  mountains  finally  selected  as  the  most 

practicable  entrance  to  the  interior  will  also  be  carefully  surveyed,  triangulated  and 

platted,  with  full  and  complete  figures  of  distance,  altitwles,  and  widths  of  passes, 

and  should  be  definitely  located  and  properly  marked  in  order  that  the  same  may  be 

declared  a  military  road  by  the  Secretary  of  War. 

Very  respectfully, 

G.  D.  Meiklrjohn, 

Acting  Secretary  of  War. 


Ordkks.]  War  Decarthent, 

Washington,  March  22,  1899. 
Capt.  W.  R.  Abercronibie,  Second  Infantry,  commanding  Copper  River  Exploring 
Expedition,  accompanied  by  fHephen  Birch,  guide,  will  procee<l  at  once  to  Fort 
Keogh  and  Livingston,  Mont,  there  inspect,  accept,  and  brand  such  i)ack  horhcH, 
not  to  exceed  30  head,  as  come  up  to  the  required  standard.  On  completion  of  this 
duty  Captain  Abercronibie,  accompanied  by  (Juide  Birch,  will  proceed  to  Seattle, 
Wash.    The  travel  enjoined  is  necessary  for  the  public  service. 

G.  D.  Meiklejohn, 
Amstati-  Secretary  of  War. 

NARRATIVE  OF  JOURNEY  FROM  WASHINGTON,  D.   V,.,  TO   SEATTLE, 

WASH. 

Leaving  Washington,  D.  C,  on  the  afternoon  of  March  22,  my  first 
stop-over  was  at  Fort  Keogh,  Mont.,  where,  upon  ioolcing  over  the 
available  pack  horses  offered  for  sale,  I  found  that  it  would  entail  a 
journey  to  Lame  Deer,  an  old  camping  ground  and  substation  of  Fort 
Keogh,  on  an  Indian  reservation  at  the  heat'  of  Tongue  River,  a  dis- 
tance of  some  90  miles,  to  secure  the  animal  best  adapted  for  my  pur- 
pose and  that  would  give  the  best  service  for  the  work  in  hand.  How- 
ever, f  i*om  information  obtained  from  some  Iriends  in  Miles  City,  a  small 
town  some  3  miles  from  the  post.  1  was  satisfied  that  with  a  little  time 
to  visit  the  ranches  in  the  Upper  Yellowstone  Valley  1  could  get  just 
what  I  was  directed  to  accept,  which  was  a  thoroughly  broken  and 
seasoned  pack  horse  of  from  800  to  1,000  pounds  in  weight,  one  reared 
among  the  foothills  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  the  climatic  con- 
ditions were  nearer  that  of  the  country  in  which  my  expedition  was  to 
operate  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  United  States.     I  also  learned 


12 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


V. 


that  I  could  probably  secure  the  services  of  seasoned  packers  for  service 
with  the  expedition,  ps  there  were  a  number  of  men  in  and  around  the 
Yellowstone  Park  who  had  been  earning  their  living  by  taking  out 
parties  of  tourists  during  the  summer  with  small  pack  trains.  Past 
exptiriences  demonstrated  to  me  that  it  is  far  better  to  get  these  men, 
if  possible,  from  one  locality,  so  as  to  avoid  any  local  prejudice  that 
might  obtain  owing  to  the  frequent  quarrels  between  different  cattle 
outfits  during  the  round-up  season,  old  grudges  always  coming  to  the 
surface  when  whisky  came  into  camp,  which  is  sure  to  be  the  case, 
no  matter  how  strict  the  orders  against  its  introduction  or  how  vigi- 
lant the  watch  to  keep  it  out  may  be.  With  these  facts  in  view  I 
decided  to  go  to  Livingston,  where  I  had  a  friend,  George  Wakefield, 
who  for  years  had  operated  all  the  transportation  in  the  Yellowstone 
Park,  a  thorough  horseman,  and  probably  the  best-posttd  man  on  the 
horse  question  in  that  part  of  Montana,  and  there  select  the  animals 
for  m}'  train. 

At  the  suggestion  of  a  gentleman  with  some  twenty  years'  experience 
in  shipping  stock  from  the  Custer  County  range  to  Chicago,  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  I  applied  to  the  Quartenaaster-General  and  received  author- 
ity to  ship  from  Fort  Keogh  a  carload  of  forage,  to  be  used  as  a  reserve 
incase  the  stock  was  "snowed  in"  while  in  ti-ansit  from  Livingston  to 
Seattle.  Having  seen  the  forage  loaded  on  the  cars  and  arrangements 
made  for  the  hauling  of  the  car  to  Livingston  from  Fort  Keogh,  I  left 
that  post  for  Foi  t  Yellowstone  to  confer  with  the  post  quartermaster 
there,  whom  I  had  requested  to  notify  the  packers  at  Gardiner  and 
Cinnabar  that  I  desired  to  employ  men  to  go  north  with  the  expedition 
for  the  season.  Arriving  at  Fort  Yellowstone,  I  at  once  called  on  Cap- 
tain Wilder,  Fourth  Cavalry,  the  commanding  oflBcer,  and  Lieutenant 
Kress,  of  the  same  regiment,  post  quartermaster.  After  explaining 
to  these  oflScers  the  nature  of  my  mission  and  what  would  be  required 
of  the  pack  animals  and  packers,  the  latter  assembled  in  the  quarter- 
master's office,  and  1  then  explained  to  them  just  what  their  duties 
would  be,  what  the  compensation  was,  and  that  they  would  receive 
transportation  from  their  homes  to  and  from  Alaska,  provided  their 
services  were  faithful:  that  they  should  agree  to  remain  with  the  expe- 
dition up  to  October  31,  regardless  of  any  mining  stampede  that 
might  occur  in  the  country  in  which  we  were  operating. 

On  talking  the  matter  over,  relative  to  the  selection  of  pack  animals, 
with  Dave  Rhodes,  of  Gardiner,  whom  I  selected  as  my  chief  packer 
upon  the  recommendation  of  Captain  Wilder  and  Lieutenant  Kress,  I 
ascertained  that,  owing  to  the  long,  hard  winter  that  was  then  drawing 
to  an  end,  the  stock  were  in  a  very  weak  condition,  and  that  while 
thei'e  was  a  liberal  supply  of  well-broken  pack  animals  in  the  valley, 
it  would  take  same  time  to  round  them  up.  I  therefore  applied  for 
the  detail  of  a  "  horse  board  "  to  visit  the  different  ranche     a  the  valley 


IIM 


COPPER  BIVEB  EXPLOBING   EXPEDITION. 


13 


and  select  the  animals  for  the  expedition,  which  request  was  granted 
and  the  "horse  board"  detailed.  I  then  left  Fort  Yellowstone  for 
Livingston,  where  by  appointment,  I  met  Mr.  Edwin  Gillette,  of  Sheri- 
dan. Wyo.,  whom  the  Acting  Secretary  of  War  had  appointed  engi- 
neer of  the  expedition.  After  a  conference  with  Mr.- Gillette,  who 
informed  me  that  he  knew  of  some  excellent  men  who  had  been  en- 
gaged in  the  Big  Horn  Mountains  in  Wyoming  in  building  trail  to 
the  mines  and  elsewhere  for  the  last  eight  or  ten  years,  and  that  he 
thought  I  could  get  no  better  material  than  these  men  for  like  work  in 
Alaska,  1  directed  him  to  proceed  to  Sheridan  and  employ  a  foreman 
of  the  trail  gang,  a  cook,  and  the  authorized  rock  workers  under  the 
same  conditions  that  I  employed  the  packers,  which  was  transporta- 
tion to  and  from  Alaska  and  actual  expenses  at  Seattle.  Leaving 
Livingston  tho  same  afternoon  I  proceeded  to  Seattle,  Wash.,  where 
upon  arrival  1  reported  to  the  Department  and  began  the  organization 
of  my  expedition. 

Upon  visiting  Capt.  W.  W.  Robindcn,  constructing  quartermaster 
at  Seattle,  I  ascertained  that  the  niaj  jr  portion  of  the  supplies  for  the 
expedition  were  then  en  route  to  Seattle.  I  opened  telegraphic?  com- 
munication with  Gillette  at  Sheridan  to  ascertain  what  progress  he  had 
made  in  securing  skilled  men  for  the  trail  crew. 

From  day  to  day  various  articles  of  equipment  arrived  which  had 
been  ordered  by  the  Quartermaster-General  from  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia, Chicago,  San  Francisco,  Portland,  Orcg.,  and  Seattle.  But 
as  the  oflScers  who  were  directed  to  ship  these  supplies  were  also 
engaged  in  the  more  important  work  of  forwarding  stores  to  the  army 
in  Cuba  and  the  Philippines,  invoices  covering  these  shipments  in 
some  cases  were  not  i-eceived  until  after  the  expedition  had  arrived  at 
Valdez,  which  entailed  some  little  confusion  in  checking  the  outfit  into 
the  steamer.  Added  to  this  was  the  bustle  and  hurry  in  Seattle  (the 
principal  port  of  departure  for  all  Alaskan  points,  as  well  as  the  Phil- 
ippines, from- the  Northwest)  of  outfitting  transports,  etc.,  which  at 
times  threatened  to  swamp  us  in  confusion. 

About  this  time  I  received  telegraphic  orders  from  the  Acting  Secre- 
tary of  War,  directing  me  to  equip  the  expedition  with  such  anti- 
scorbutics as  in  my  judgment  would  relieve  the  situation  in  the  Copper 
River  Valley,  where  the  destitute  prospectors  were  reported  to  be 
dying  daily  from  scurvy.  At  the  same  time  I  received  notification 
from  Lieutenant  McKaine,  Fourteenth  Infantry,  acting  chief  commis- 
sary of  subsistence  at  Vancouver  Barracks,  that  he  would  be  in  Seattle 
on  the  foHowing  day  to  fill  my  requisition  for  the  relief  supplies  for 
the  people  in  the  Copper  River  Valley. 

Dr.  Neal  C.  Trew,  of  San  Fmncisco,  having  reported  for  duty  as 
medical  officer  of  the  expedition,  we,  on  tho  arrival  of  Lieutenant 
McKaine,  Fourteenth  Infantry,  selected  such  articles  of  canned  goods 


14 


OOPPEB  BIVEB  EXPLOitINO   EXPEDITION. 


li 


i 


I 


as  we  believed  would  be  required  to  alleviate  the  sufferings  of  the 
miners  at  Valdez. 

Following  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Trew  came  First  Lieut.  Walter  C. 
Babcock,  Eighth  Cavalry,  topographical  oflBcer;  Commissary  Sergt. 
J.  Augustus  Tillman,  United  States  Army,  and  other  members  of  the 
expedition,  who  had  all  arrived  and  reported  for  duty  prior  to  April  10. 

The  expedition  being  without  the  necessary  transportation  with 
which  to  move  the  antiscorbutics  from  Port  Valdez  into  the  interioi, 
authority  was  requested  for  the  purchase  of  two  dog  teams,  which  the 
Quartermaster-General  ordered  Capt.  W.  W.  Robinson,  constructing 
quartermaster  at  Seattle,  to  purchase.  Authority  was  also  granted  for 
the  employment  of  two  dog  drivers.  We  were  particularly  fortunate 
in  the  purchase  of  one  dog  team  of  five  dogs  that  had  just  arrived 
from  Dawson,  Northwest  Territory,  where  they  had  been  used  for  two 
seasons.  The  other  team  was  composed  of  sele/jted  domestic  dogs  and 
turned  out  to  be  of  little  value  as  a  means  of  transportation.  For 
drivers  I  found  two  men  who  had  had  experience  in  Alaska.  Like 
the  dog  teams,  one  proved  to  be  first-class  and  the  other  not  so  good. 

On  the  10th  of  April,  the  chief  packer,  Dave  Rhodes,  and  some  of 
his  packers  from  Livingston,  Mont.,  an'ived  at  Seattle  and  reported 
heavy  snows  on  tho  moiintains  and  rain  in  the  valleys  east  of  the  Coast 
Range. 

Captain  Robinson,  who  was  trying  to  locate  the  carload  of  pack 
animals,  was  infonued  by  the  railroad  officials  that,  owing  to  the  wash- 
outs and  snow  blockades  on  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  the  scheduled 
time  of  all  trains  had  been  al>andoned,  and  that  they  were  running 
"wild"  and  could  not  be  located.  As  the  steamer  on  which  the  expe- 
dition was  to  embark — Tm  Excelmyr  (1) — of  the  Pacific  Steam  Whaling 
Company's  line,  was  about  loaded  and  ready  to  sail,  the  situation  was 
embarrassing,  and  thus  our  departure  was  delayed  until  the  16th  of 
April,  when  our  horses  (2  and  3)  having  arrived  from  Livingstone  were, 
together  with  the  beef  (4,  146)  cattle,  loade  .  ^rly  in  the  morning, 
when  the  expedition  sailed  for  Port  Valdez. 

After  an  uneventful  voyage  of  six  days  (6)  anchor  was  dropped  at 
Port  Valdez,  Alaska,  on  the  21st  day  of  April,  1899,  about  6  o'clock 
p.  m.  The  scene  that  followed  the  arrival  of  our  A^essel  at  Valdez  was 
one  that  I  shall  not  soon  forget.  Crowding  aboard  the  steamer  came 
the  argonauts  of  last  season's  rush  into  the  Copper  River  Valley  and 
who  now  considered  themselves  full-fledged  mind's,  although  many  of 
them  had  never  handled  either  a  pick  or  shovel  since  their  entry  into 
the  country.  A  more  iwotley-looking  crowd  it  would  be  hard  to  im- 
agine. Mackinaw  suits  of  all  varieties  and  colors,  faded  and  worn  by 
exposure  to  the  elements  and  their  long  journey  over  the  Valdez 
Glacier  (6)  from  the  Copper  River  Valley.  They  seemed  to  be  sadly 
demoralized,  and  fiuni  a  hurried  conversation  I  had  with  six  or  seven 


COPPER  BIVER  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


15 


iamer  came 


I  had  known  the  year  before  I  was  led  to  believe  that  hundreds  were 
dying  of  stai-vation  and  scurvy  beyond  the  Coast  Range  in  the  Copper 
River  Valley.  Most  of  those  then  in  the  settlement  of  Valdez  had 
little  or  no  money,  but  notwithstanding  this  fact  a  wholesale  orgy  was 
inaugurated  that  lasted  until  midnight,  the  cabin  and  decks  of  the 
steamer  giving  unmistakable  evidence  of  the  potent  influence  of  the 
liquor  on  those  who  had  indulged  so  freely  and  who  were  now  lying 
around  in  various  attitudes  sleeping  off  the  effects. 

In  some  way  these  people  became  possessed  of  the  idea  that  the 
Government  contemplated  furnishing  them  transportation  from  Valdez 
to  Seattle,  and  it  was  not  for  some  days  that  I  could  disabuse  their 
minds  of  this  fact.  That  they  had  passed  a  terrible  winter  was  beyond 
all  question  of  doubt;  that  many  of  them  had  died  from  scurvy  and 
being  frozen  to  death  was  in  evidence  at  the  little  graveyard  that  had 
sprung  up  since  my  departure  the  year  before. 

One  of  the  first  men  from  whom  I  could  get  an  intelligent  account 
of  the  condition  of  things  was  Quartermaster's  Agent  Charles  Brown  (7), 
whose  salutation  to  me  was,  "My  God,  Captain,  it  has  been  clear  hell  I 
1  tell  you  the  early  days  of  Montana  were  not  a  marker  to  what  I  have 
gone  through  this  winter!    It  was  awful  1" 

Going  ashore  with  Mr.  Brown,  I  visited  the  various  cabins  in  which 
he  had  housed  some  80  or  100  of  these  destitute  prospectors,  and  from 
what  I  saw  there  I  was  satisfied  that  while  his  remarks  might  have  been 
forcible  they  were  not  an  exaggeration. 

Many  of  these  people  I  had  met  and  known  the  year  before  were  so 
changed  in  their  appearance,  with  their  long  hair  hanging  down  their 
shoulders  and  beards  covering  their  entire  face,  that  I  do  not  think  I 
recognized  one  of  them.  They  were  crowded  together,  from  15  to  20 
in  log  cabins,  12  by  15,  and  in  the  center  of  which  was  a  stove.  On 
the  floor  of  the  cabin  at  night  they  would  spread  their  blankets  and  lie 
down,  packed  like  sardines  in  a  box.  Facilities  for  bathing  there  were 
Most  of  them  were  more  or  les^  afflicted  with  scurvy,  ';yhile  not 


none. 


a  few  of  them  had  frost-bitten  hands,  faces,  and  feet.     Their  footwear 

in  some  cases  consisted  of  the  tops  of  rubber  boots  that  had  been  cut 

off  by  Brown  and  manufactui-ed  into  shoes.     Around  their  feet  they 

had  wound  strips  of  gunny  sacks,  which  were  used  in  place  of  socks. 

Across  the  cabin  from  side  to  side  were  suspended  ropes  on  which  were 

hung  various  articles  of  apparel  that  had  become  wet  in  wallowing 

through  the  deep  snow  and  had  been  hung  up  at  night  to  dry.     The 

odor  emanating  from  these  articles  of  clothing,  the  sore  feet  of  those 

I  who  were  frozen,  and  the  saliva  and  breath  of  those  afflicted  with 

I  scurvy  gave  forth  a  stench  that  was  simply  poisonous  as  well  as  sick- 

I  ening  to  a  man  in  good  health,  and  sure  death  to  one  in  ill-health. 

I  at  once  directed  Brown  to  hire  a  cabin  in  which  to  organize  a  hos- 
pital (9  and  11)  and  another  one  for  a  cookhouse  (10  and  12)  and  to 
employ  a  crew  to  run  both  places. 


16 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORINO   EXPEDITION. 


! 


i^ 


I  noticed  in  tiilking  to  these  people  that  over  70  per  ocnt  of  them 
were  more  or  less  mentally  deranged.  My  attention  was  first  directed 
to  this  fact  by  their  reference  to  a  glacial  demon."  One  big,  raw- 
boned  Swede,  in  particular,  described  to  me  how  this  demon  had 
strangled  his  son  on  the  glacier,  his  story  being  that  he  had  just  started 
from  Twelve-Mile  Plant  (a  small  collection  of  huts  just  across  the 
Coast  Range  of  Mountains  from  Valdez)  with  his  son  to  go  to  the  coast 
in  company  with  some  other  prospectoi's.  When  halfway  up  the 
summit  of  the  glacier,  his  son,  who  was  ahead  of  him  hauling  a  sled, 
while  he  was  behind  pushing,  called  to  him,  saying  that  the  demon  had 
attacked  him  and  had  his  arms  around  his  neck.  The  father  ran  to  the 
son's  assistance,  but,  as  he  described  it,  his  son  being  very  strong, 
soon  drove  the  demon  away  and  they  passed  on  th^ir  way  up  toward 
the  summit  of  Valdez  Glacier.  The  weather  was  very  cold  and  the 
wind  blowing  very  hard,  so 'that  it  made  traveling  very  difficult  in 
passing  over  the  ice  between  the  huge  crevasses  through  which  it  was 
necessary  to  pick  their  way  to  gain  the  summit.  While  in  the  thickest 
of  these  crevasses,  the  demon  again  appeared.  He  was  said  to  be  a 
small,  heavy-built  man  and  very  active.  He  again  sprang  on  the  son's 
shoulders,  this  time  with  such  a  grasp  that,  although  the  father  did  all 
he  could  to  release  him,  the  demon  finally  strangled  the  son  to  death. 
The  old  man  then  put  the  son  on  the  sled  and  brought  him  down  to 
the  Twelve-Mile  camp,  where  the  other  prospectors  helped  him  bury 
him. 

During  the  recital  of  this  tale  the  old  man's  eyes  would  blaze  and  he 
would  go  through  all  the  actions  to  illustrate  just  how  he  fought  off 
this  imaginary  demon.  When  I  heard  this  story  there  were  some  ten 
or  twelve  other  men  in  the  cabin  and  at  that  time  it  would  not  have 
been  safe  to  dispute  the  theory  of  the  existence  of  this  demon  on  the 
Valdez  Glacier,  as  every  man  in  there  firmly  believed  it  to  be  a  reality. 

I  was  infoi-med  by  Mr.  Brown  that  thid  was  a  common  form  of 
mental  derangement  i .  cident  to  those  whom  a  fear  of  scurvy  had  driven 
out  over  the  glacier,  where  so  many  had  perished  by  freezing  to  death. 

DISEMBARKATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  AT  PORT  VALDEZ,  APRIL  22, 

1899. 

About  4  o'clock  a.  m.,  April  22,  everybody  was  astir,  as  I  had  given 
orders  the  evening  before  that  the  disembarkation  of  the  expedition 
would  commence  as  soon  as  it  was  light  enough  to  see.  The  weather 
(which  in  Port  Valdez  is  local  in  character)  looked  heavy  and  threaten- 
ing, and  shortly  after  6  o'clock  a.  m.  a  driving  snowstorm  set  in,  the 
flakes  of  which  were  fully  as  large  as  a  half-dollar  piece  and  fell  in 
such  quantities  that  it  was  impossible  to  see  more  than  10  or  12  yards 
ahead,  forming  a  coating  on  the  bay  so  thick  as  to  greatly  impede  the 
progress  of  the  rowboats  in  transferring  the  stock  and  supplies  from 
the  steamer  to  the  shore. 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITIOK. 


17 


IZ,  APKIL  22, 


The  pack  horses  and  beef  cattle  were  unloaded  first,  and  the  method 
resorted  to  may  be  of  interest,  if  not  of  value,  in  the  future.  There 
being  no  lighter  available,  two  of  the  ship's  boats  were  lashed  to  a  fore- 
and-aft  deck  beam,  forming  a  craft  resembling  a  catamaran.  On  the 
deck  beams  referred  to  was  placed  a  decking  of  loose  lumber,  leaving 
room  for  two  men  to  operate  the  oars  in  the  bow.  A  large  box,  the 
size  of  an  ordinary  horse  stall,  was  swung  in  the  rigging  of  the  ship 
and  lowered  into  the  hold  by  means  of  a  steam  wench.  This  box  was 
provided  with  a  door  at  each  end  that,  when  opened,  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  gangway.  The  animals  being  led  in,  both  doors  were  closed 
and  fastened,  the  box  hoisted  up  over  the  ship's  side  and  lowered  on 
the  deck  of  the  catamaran,  which  was  rowed  shore,  the  front  door 
opened  and  the  animal  led  out  on  the  beach.  The  transition  from  the 
dark  hold  of  the  ship  into  the  glare  of  the  snow  so  confused  and 
bewildered  the  animals  that  on  landing  them  on  the  beach  some  of  the 
beef  cattle  ran  back  into  the  bay  and  were  swimming  around  in  the 
water  for  over  half  an  hour  before  they  could  be  driven  back  to  the 
shore  again. 

Having  landed  all  the  stock,  the  parts  of  an  escort  wagon  were  sent 
ashore  and  put  together.  The  commissary  stores,  which  had  been 
specially  put  up  in  50-pound  packages  and  sacked  in  canvass,  were  then 
unloaded  on  the  beach  (13)  and  hauled  up  (14)  to  a  log  cabin  which  bad 
been  rented  for  storage  purposes. 

The  unloading  of  the  supplies  of  the  expedition  was  kept  up  unin- 
teiTuptedly  with  relays  of  men  and  horses  until  the  entire  consignment 
had  been  landed  and  housed  (31). 

Upon  inspecting  the  stock  it  was  found  that,  notwithstanding  the 
long  journey  by  cars  and  boat  of  fifteen  days,  they  had  arrived  without 
injury  to  a  single  animal,  which  was  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the 
care  exercised  by  Captain  Downing  in  providing  stall  accommodations 
;  on  the  steamer  inclosure. 

Having  provided  shelter  for  the  public  property  of  the  expedition, 

1  a  number  of  small  cabins  were  rented  for  quarters,  cook  houses,  etc. 

(16,  16, 17,  18,  20,  21),  for  the  accommodation  of  the  employees.     (See 

report  in  detail  of  Post  Quartermaster  Sergt.  Philip  Glesener  (8),  act- 

[ing  quartermaster  of  the  expedition.) 

RELIEF  FEATURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

In  compliance  with  the  special  instructions  of  the  Acting  Secretary 

)f  War,  extending  relief  to  destitute  persons  in  the  mining  regions  of 

laska  under  the  act  of  Decembei*  18, 1897, 1  directed  Charles  Brown, 

\n  old  Government  employee  of  some  forty  years  standing,  who  had 

sen  appointed  by  the  A«.'ting  Secretary  of  War  quartermaster's  agent 

If  or  the  relief  of  destitute  persons,  to  hire,  if  possible,  cabins  for  hospital 

|(9),  bunk  house  (22),  and  mess  house  (18);  to  equip  them,  so  far  m 

S.  Dec.  306 2 


18 


COPPER  BIVES   XXPLOBING    EXPEDITION. 


the  moans  at  our  disposal  would  admit,  8o  as  to  caro  for  the  8ick  and 
destitute  in  his  charge  and  en  route  from  the  interior,  and  to  organize 
a  crew  from  the  most  able-bodied  to  provide  fuel  and  food  for  the 
relief  station.  Under  the  authority  granted  me  in  letter  of  instruc- 
tions from  the  Quartermaster-General,  these  men  were  regularly 
employed  at  a  compensation  of  $1  per  day  and  a  ration. 

A  detailed  report  of  Quartermaster  Agent  Brown  is  submitted  here- 
with, and  in  submitting  such  report  I  have,  at  the  urgent  request  of 
many  persons  who  were  forced  to  apply  for  relief,  withheld  the  list  of 
names,  for  the  reason  that  I  believed  it  to  be  an  unnecessary  humilia- 
tion of  the  many  unfoiiiunate  men  who  were  forced  to  accept  as  a  gra- 
tuity medical  attendance  and  subsistence  from  a  public  institution. 
The  majority  of  these  men  appeared  to  appreciate  the  spirit  qf  the 
act  under  which  the  Department  extended  them  relief  in  their  distress. 
But  there  were  many  adventurers  who,  actuated  by  a  sordid  desire  to 
save  their  money  and  live  on  the  Government  by  simply  misrepre- 
senting their  condition,  deceived  the  agent  in  charge  of  the  station  by 
proclaiming  themselves  destitute. 

It  will  be  noticed  in  the  report  of  Quartermaster  Agent  Brown  that 
immediately  after  landing  relief  parties  were  sent  out  over  the  Valdez 
Glacier  into  the  Copper  River  Valley,  equipped  with  the  dog  teams  (23, 
24)  and  supplies,  to  bring  out  to  the  coast  those  whose  enfeebled  condi- 
tion rendered  them  helpless.  I  n  this  connection  I  desire  to  call  attention 
to  the  appended  report  of  Dr.  Leroy  S.  Townsend,  who,  during  the  win- 
ter of  1898-99,  performed  the  functions  of  attending  physician  at  the 
improvised  hospital  at  Copper  Center,  during  what  might  be  termed 
an  epidemic  of  scurvy  in  the  Copper  River  Valley.  This  report  was 
made  by  Dr.  Townsend  at  my  request,  as  I  believed  the  information 
contained  therein,  regarding  the  loathesome  disease  of  scurvy,  would 
be  of  great  value  in  the  future  to  the  inexperienced  under  similar  con- 
ditions in  a  new  countiy. 

To  thoroughly  understand  the  conditions  prevailing  among  the  pros- 
pectors during  the  period  referred  to,  it  should  be  remembered  that 
most  of  the  men  located  in  the  various  camps  had  probably  never  been 
out  of  sight  of  the  smoke  from  a  factory  chimney;  that  tJie  hardships 
encountered  on  entering  the  country  were  such  as  to  turn  back  75  per 
cent  of  practically  every  outfit  the  summer  before  and  that  those  who 
remained  in  the  country,  prompted  rather  by  pride  and  a  desire  to  face 
what  was  considered  the  rigors  of  an  arctic  winter,  were,  as  the  season 
advanced,  impressed  with  the  fear  as  to  the  wisdom  of  their  act  in  not 
taking  the  advice  of  their  comrades  who  had  gone  back  to  the  States. 
In  addition  to  this  was  the  rumor  that  the  War  Department  had  with- 
drawn its  representative  and  that  there  was  no  one  left  on  the  coast  at 
Valdez.  A  feeling  of  desel-tion  and  abandonment,  not  only  by  their 
comrades,  but  by  the  General  Government,  began  to  manifest  itself. 


COPPER  RIVER  EXPLORING  EXPEDrnO-^r. 


19 


Ah  the  long  nights  und  deep  .snow  crept  in  on  then\  an  uneasiness 
biigan  to  pervade  every  cabin,  and  when  a  sickness  appeared,  the  char- 
acter of  which  they  were  unable  to  detenuino  and  univei-sally  diag- 
nosed as  black  rheumatism,  frost  bite,  and  everything  but  scurvy, 
they  were  driven  well  nigh  into  a  fever  of  desperation.  To  flee  from 
these  conditions  was  their  one  thought  and  topic  of  conversation, 
but  where  to,  was  the  question  on  every  lip,  and  when  a  number, 
regardless  of  the  consequences,  attempted  what  was  considered  an 
imposHibility  at  that  season  of  the  year,  the  passage  of  the  dreaded 
Valdez  Glacier,  leaving  two-thirds  of  their  party  frozen  to  death  on 
the  vast  ice  fields,  far  up  above  the  clouds,  the  panic  was  complete. 
If  my  memory  serves  me  right,  I  do  not  think  there  was  a  single  cabin 
in  the  Copper  River  Valley  during  the  winter  of  1898-99  that  did  not 
lose  at  least  one  of  its  party  from  being  frozen  to  death  or  by  P'.iurvy. 
As  a  matter  of  record  and  us  an  object  lesson  to  those  contemplat- 
ing an  adventure  of  this  chai'acter,  I  have  selected  from  among  scores 
of  written  reports  turned  in  to  me  in  the  course  of  my  investigation, 
one  by  the  Wilson  Mining  Company  (appended  hereto),  who  attempted 
to  ascend  the  Copper  River  Vallej'  from  its  mouth  early  in  1898.  The 
general  tenor  of  this  report  may  bo  considered  as  a  fair  specimen,  and 
without  exaggeration  of  the  hardships  incident  to  the  prospector's 
life  in  the  districts  of  Alaska. 

After  repeated  attempts  to  supply  the  sick  in  the  interior  with  anti- 
scorbutics and  fresh  food  by  our  limited  supply  of  dog  transportation, 
I  directed  my  clerk,  Mr.  John  F.  Rice  (whose  report  1  submit  here- 
with), to  proceed  into  the  Copper  River  Valley  and  establish  relief  sta- 
I  tions  at  the  mouth  of  Grayling  Creek,  on  the  head  of  the  Klutena 
j  River,  and  at  Copper  Center,  some  30  miles  below  Grayling,  on  the 
Copper  River.     At  each  of  these  stations  I  detailed  enlisted  men  of 
the  expedition  to  extend  relief  and  encouragement  to  the  demoralized 
and  destitute  prospectors.    These  stations  were  continued  in  opera- 
tion until  the  latter  part  of  September,  when  the  men  were  withdrawn 
[therefrom  and  detailed  for  duty  at  Station  3  on  the  China  River,  and 
I  Station  2  at  the  mouth  of  the  Keystone  Can3'^on,  and  Station  1  at  the 
Imouth  of  the  Lowe  River  on  Valdez  Bay.    Just  prior  to  the  with- 
[drawal  of  my  men  from  Copper  Center  and  Grayling,  the  last  of  the 
jscurvy  patients,  a  man  and  a  woman,  living  in  a  miner's  camp  near  the 
|hcad  of  Quartz  Creek,  a  tributary  to  the  Tonsena  River,  were  packed 
)ut  of  that  country  on  horses  to  Valdez. 

The  number  of  persons  to  whom  relief  was  extended,  exclusive  of 
those  employed  on  trail  construction  and  otherwise,  were  about  480, 
md  represented  all  nationalities,  professions,  and  classes,  both  white 
md  black.     So  far  as  my  observation  could  detennine,  the  cause  of 


90 


OOPFSB  BIVXB   EZPLOBINO   BXPEDITION. 


if 

I 


i 


1!^ 


failure  was  duo  to  their  advanced  Age,  which  averaged  over  47  years, 
and  the  lack  of  knowledge  of  the  general  indications  of  mineral  depoMits 
and  business  qualifications.  Ninety -five  per  cent  of  them  hw\  ifailed 
in  business  ventures  many  times,  and  only  joined  the  rush  to  the  gold 
fields  in  the  hope  that  they  might  be  one  of  the  lucky  men  to  strike  it 
rich. 

It  is  a  well-known  fact  to  the  professional  miner  that  his  calling 
involves  not  only  theoretical  knowledge  of  the  structure  of  the  earth's 
crust  to  detect  the  impregnations  of  a  mineral-bearing  zone,  but  also 
a  wide  experience  in  the  economic  development  of  the  same  after  dis- 
covery. Of  the  4,000  persons  who  composed  the  stampede  to  the  Cop- 
per River  Valley  in  1898, 1  do  not  think  a  man  of  such  caliber  was  to 
be  found  in  the  ranks. 

After  the  first  payment  to  the  destitute  miners  employed  at  Valdez 
on  April  31,  under  the  II  a  day  rating.  Quartermaster  Agent  Brown 
informed  me  that  unless  I  took  some  steps  to  prevent  these  men  from 
squandering  their  earnings  in  gambling  and  drinking  that  we  would 
be  unable  to  get  rid  of  them.  After  investigating  the  matter,  I  dis- 
covered that  the  local  agent  of  the  steamship  company  plying  between 
Seattle  and  Valdez  was,  in  direct  violation  of  the  law,  carrying  on  a 
liquor  and  gambling  traffic.  This  was  an  embarrassing  situation  for 
me,  as  twenty  years  experience  on  the  frontier  had  taught  me  that  the 
army  officer  who  interfered  with  the  liquor  traffic  has  trouble  before 
him.  We  had  at  that  time  between  80  and  100  destitute  men  to  care 
for.  We  had  authority  to  employ  15  of  these  each  month  at  a  rating 
of  $1  per  day,  which  meant,  if  the  steamer  came  promptly,  the  depor- 
tation of  15  men  a  month,  provided  their  earnings  were  spent  in  the 
legitimate  channel  of  purchasing  their  transportation  to  the  States. 
The  course  to  pursue  was  obvious.  These  men  must  be  shipped  south, 
and  if  they  would  not  voluntarily  purchase  their  tickets,  I  must  do  it 
for  them.  I  notified  ( he  local  agent  referred  to  that  if  he  did  not  close 
his  establishment,  I  would  do  so  and  place  a  guard  over  it,  and  pre- 
vent any  further  illegal  traffic  in  whisky.  I  wrote  to  the  agent  at  San 
Francisco,  requesting  that  he  take  such  action  as  would  discontinue  the 
sale  of  liquor  from  the  ships  when  touching  at  Port  Valdez. 

I  addressed  a  communication  to  the  Department,  asking  that  a 
deputy  United  States  marshal  and  a  United  States  commissioner  be 
appointed  by  the  proper  authority  for  duty  at  Valdez,  to  take  care 
of  this  illegal  traffic.  I  further  gave  orders  to  my  quartermaster 
sergeant  to  make  no  payments  in  cash,  but,  when  sufficient  time  had 
occurred  to  drop  the  employee  from  the  pay  roll,  furnish  him  lodging 
and  subsistence  until  the  arrival  of  the  steamer,  when  the  destitute 
would  be  placed  on  board,  given  a  ticket  to  Seattle  and  $5  in  cash,  so 
that,  upon  arrival  at  Seattle,  he  would  not  be  arrested  for  violation  of 
the  vagrant  act,  I  having  placed  in  his  possession  a  visible  means  of 


CUPPEB  BIVEB  SZPLOBINO  E2PEDITI0N. 


21 


support.  This  order  was  extremely  unpopular  among  the  whisky 
clement  and  others  interested  in  like  traffic;  but  the  result  was  satis- 
factory, as  was  demonstrated  later  in  the  season  when  one  of  the 
cutters  of  the  Treasury  Department  having  called  at  the  Port  of  Val- 
dez  to  take  south  destitute  persons,  it  was  found  that  none  remained, 
and  the  vessel  departed  for  Seattle  without  taking  on  IxMird  a  single 
person,  and  the  second  cutter,  which  was  to  follow  the  first,  was 
ordered  to  proceed  direct  to  San  Francisco  from  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
without  calling  at  Port  Valdez. 

CONSTRUCTION  OP  TRANSALA8KAN  MILITARY  ROAD  FROM  CANTON- 
MENT AT  PORT  VALDEZ  TO  FORT  EGBERT,  YUKON  RIVER,  Afe  f  'RECT- 
EDIN  PARAGRAPH  2  OF  GENERAL  ORDERS  NO.  61,  ADJUTAiVT  GEN- 
ERAL'S ORDERS,  CURRENT  SERIES. 

In  selecting  the  material  for  the  personnel  of  this  duty,  those  who 
had  been  formerly  employed  in  railroad  and  trail  construction  through 
the  Big  Horn  and  Rocky  Mountains  in  Colorado  and  Wyoming  were 
sought,  and,  as  a  result,  the  organization  of  the  expedition  at  Seattle 
brought  together  a  number  of  men  of  large  experience  in  such  worli: 
during  the  earlier  days  of  railroad  construction  through  the  mountain 
divisions  of  the  transcontinental  trunk  lines. 

Under  my  special  instructions  I  was  authorized  to  employ  a  sur- 
veyor and  an  assistant  surveyor,  2  topographers,  a  foreman  of  trail 
crew,  4  rock  workers,  2  cooks  and  15  axmen.  This  authority  was 
aftei-wards  increased  by  the  Acting  Secretary  of  War  so  as  to  provide 
for  all  the  unemployed  in  the  Copper  River  District. 

On  the  25th  of  April  I  sent  my  assistant  surveyor  and  foreman  on 
snowshoes  (25)  up  to  the  juth  of  the  Keystone  Canyon  to  select  a 
construction  camp  and  a  site  for  a  substation,  as  contemplated  by  par- 
agraph 2  of  General  Orders,  No.  51,  Adjutant-General's  Office,  cur- 
rent series,  with  instructions  to  carefully  note  the  depth  of  snow 
en  route  with  a  view  to  the  use  of  pack  animals.  On  the  27th  of  April 
these  men  returned  and  reported  that  while  the  snow  was  quite  deep 
in  some  places,  yet  by  following  up  the  open  stream  bed  of  the  Lowe 
River  (which  at  this  season  will  not  average  over  10  inches  in  depth 
and  about  10  yards  in  width),  that  an  outfit  coidd  be  packed  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  canyon. 

The  work  of  construction  on  this  militaiy  road  is  reported  in  full  by 

First  Lieut.  Walter  C.  Babcock,  Eighth  United  States  Cavalry,  topo- 

I  graphical  officer  of  the  expedition,  who  was  placed  in  charge  of  the 

construction  camp  at  the  inception  of  the  work,  and  later  on  sent 

[forward  with  the  locating  party.    On  the  29th  of  April  the  trail  crew 

16)  left  the  cantonment  at  Valdez  and  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  the 
[Keystone  Canyon  (27).  The  reason  for  commencing  work  at  the 
[mouth  of  the  Keystone  Canyon,  instead  of  starting  from  Valdez,  was 


n 


22 


COI'I'ER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


^ 


?n 


!  i 


that  the  fii'Ht  16  tnilos  of  tho  trail  poMHcd  over  t\w  tItxMl  plnin  of  tho 
Low«i  River  Valley  (28,  46),  which  at  thin  wnMon  of  the  year  waM  cov- 
ered by  Honio  3  or  4  feet  of  drifted  hiiow,  making  it  iiiipoHHilile  Ut  ti>ll 
juHt  where  tho  ^jrhieial  Htreains  would  cut  durinj^f  the  hi^fh-water  {xu-iiHl 
of  July  and  August;  whereas  hy  beginniiifj;  work  at  the  mouth  of  the 
canyon  the  construction  party  could  work  up  into  and  over  tho  f<M>t- 
hills  of  tho  canyon,  and  down  tho  Lowe  River  Valley  over  groiuul  that 
was  known  to  he  aliovo  tho  hij(h-wat4M'  mark.  This  ifiitial  \Mnnt  in 
designat4;d  on  the  accompanying  map  as  station  (29,  30)  No.  2,  and  is 
14  miles  from  tide  wat«M'  and  270  feet  aliove  sea  hsvel. 

While  the  trail  crew  wore  engaged  in  building  log  cabins  for  shition 
2,  tho  surveyors  wore  pushing  forward  tho  preliminary  line  of  lo<!tt- 
tion  along  the  loft  or  west  side  of  tho  canyon,  which  .was  found  to  bo 
about  3i  miles  in  length.  This  work  was  very  slow  and  lalM>rious, 
owing  to  the  deep,  soft  snow  which  was  now  molting  «|uite  tiipidly. 
By  reference  to  tho  accompanying  map  it  will  l>o  found  that  the  for- 
mation of  this  canyon  is  eruptive  in  character,  being  nujch  broken,  as 
shown  by  the  irregularities  of  the  contours.  Stalling  in  on  a  hillside 
cut  a  half  mile  below  station  2,  tho  trail  follows  tho  :ndo  of  the  foot- 
hills in  a  northeasterly  direction,  through  a  heavy  growth  of  spruce 
timber  and  underbrush,  until  it  crosses  a  small  stream  at  an  elevation 
of  some  000  feet,  where  it  liears  oflf  sharp  to  tho  north  and  climbs  the 
face  of  a  bench  or  fork  in  tho  formation  with  more  or  less  retaining 
wall,  where  it  again  takes  an  easterly  trend,  describing  a  half  circle 
back  to  the  north  again,  crossing  a  creek  and  bridge  No.  1;  again 
bearing  off  to  tho  east  along  the  canyon  wall  where  the  road  is  cut 
through  almost  solid  rock,  keeping  at  an  elevation  of  a)x>ut  700  feet  and 
following  the  meanderings  of  the  canyon  to  its  head. 

Tho  scenery  of  this  portion  of  the  trail  is  unique  in  (!haracter  (32, 
33,  34,  35, 36,  37,  38,  39,  40, 41,  42, 43, 47)  and  most  impressive,  compar- 
ing favorably  in  grandeur  and  massive  outlook  with  either  tho  Grand 
Canyon  of  tho  Colorado  or  that  of  the  Yellowstone.  To  the  right  are 
three  beautiful  waterfalls  (36),  with  glaciers  far  above  them  on  the 
mountain  summits,  one  of  these  falls  (38)  having  a  plunge  to  the  river 
below  of  700  feet.  Looking  down  toward  the  mouth  of  the  canyon 
may  be  seen  a  monster  glacier  on  the  south  side  of  the  Lowe  River 
Valley,  with  its  deep  blue  coloring  framed  in  by  the  green  foliage 
clinging  to  the  canyon  walls  (44).  Ijooking  up  the  canyon  on  the 
right  side  is  a  pei-pendicular  wall  of  rock  over  1,200  feet  in  altitude. 
The  entire  terraine  is  covered  by  a  dense  growth  of  underbrush,  prin- 
cipally the  alder,  a  bush  growing  from  8  to  12  feet  high,  with  limbs 
and  trunks  po  interwoven  as  to  render  crawling  through  it  without 
cutting  one's  waj  an  impossibility.  Leaving  the  head  of  this  canj-^on 
the  trail,  keeping  an  even  grade  over  a  side  hill  (41)  cut  along  the  base 
of  the  mountkiius  almost  uniformly  on  the  800-foot  level,  passes  over 


OOFI'RR   WIVFR    EXI'LORINO    KXPKDITION. 


28 


isses  over 


n  Hlopo  which,  like  thiit  in  tho  cnnyoii,  is  covonHi  with  a  donMn  );r  )wth 
of  alder,  wild  Howjtm,  and  jjniMH,  which  from  year  to  year  han  formed 
a  ve}fet4vl)lo  mold,  coverinif  the  jfnivel  and  iM'd  nn-k  from  2  to  2^  feot 
thi<*k.  which  holdH  the  wattu'  like  a  HiM>n};e  and  is  Hoon  cut  up  into  a 
tine  brown  umck.  As  it  rains  const4intly  in  this  section  of  the  moun- 
tains tlu^re  is  a  continuous  seepin);  down  the  trail,  makinj^  hillastin);  a 
ne<'essity  t-o  keep  the  roadln^d  in  i>assal)le  condition,  whlhi  in  i-rossinj; 
th(^  small  streams,  which  are  numerous,  a  short  piect^  of  r(>tainin^ 
wall  is  necessary  to  hold  the  trail  in  place. 

I^Mivinjf  this  hillside  cut,  the  trail  crosses  the  tirst  stream  <if  any 
sixe  (46),  ^vhich  is  a  drainage  of  the  east  end  of  the  Corhin  (Ihu^ior 
(86).  The  sit«'  selecttnl  for  the  construction  of  hridjje  No.  2  was  on  a 
reverse  curve  of  the  stream,  where  one  abutment  could  be  placed  <m 
11  solid  rock  foundation,  while  the  (^th'jr  restful  on  a  <'rib  built  in  an 
eddy  (46).  Crossinjf  over  this  bridj^e,  the  trail  imsses  alonj.  through 
what  is  known  as  Dutch  Flat  (48,  49,  50,  61),  over  an  old  moraine, 
through  a  heavy  growth  of  cottonwood  timlKjr  and  a  second  glacial 
stream,  which  is  spanned  by  a  two-abutment  bridge  (62),  one  crib 
of  which  is  built  around  a  large  Injwlder  and  the  other  in  an  eddy. 
From  this  point  the  trail  begins  to  climb  up  out  of  the  Lowe  lliver 
Valley  by  a  sidehill  cut,  through  gravi^l  and  a  green  schist  rock  very 
hard  in  characiter;  over  a  succession  of  InMiches  or  iuunense  rock  ledges 
by  an  impei'ceptiblo  grade  to  the  summit  of  Thompson  Pass  (48) 
(which  is  simply  a  sag  in  the  Imckbone  of  the  main  range),  and  then 
drops  down  into  Ptarmigan  Creek,  which  flows  into  the  Chona  Kivor 
some  <)  miles  Indow  over  a  still  easier  grading  than  that  encountered 
in  climbing  up  the  south  side  of  the  range.  The  topography  hero  ii^ 
very  rocky  and  broktm.  Following  down  Ptarmigan  Cret^k  for  some  3 
miles,  the  trail  couies  out  into  quite  a  wide  valley  space  (63-,  64),  which 
is  composed  of  washed  gravels  formed  into  numerous  sandbars.  Fol- 
lowing down  the  eastern  side  of  the  Chona  Valley,  sometimes  called 
the  South  Fork  of  tbo  Tiekell,  the  first  H  miles  of  the  trail  are  over  old 
morainic  matter,  covered  with  a  rank  growth  of  grass  and  red  avIUows, 
after  pa^^sing  which  the  mountain  sides  become  more  abrupt  and  tho 
valley  space  narrows  in.  The  trail  from  hero  on  to  tho  tirst  crossing 
of  the  Chena  at  tho  second  canyon  is  like  in  character  that  from  the 
head  of  Keystone  Pass  to  the  crossing  of  tho  (Jorbin  Glacier  stream,  a 
sidehill  cut  with  an  occasional  retaining  wall. 

Ten  miles  down  the  Chena  Valley  from  Thompson  Pass  is  the  first  spruce 
timber  met  with  on  tho  Copper  River  side  of  tho  range.  Here  station  3 
(66)  is  located,  which  consists  of  a  log  storehouse  with  a  shingle  roof,  for 
the  preservati  ,  or  supplies,  and  a  smaller  cabin,  with  a  shingle  roof,  for 
tho  station  keepers.  Tho  river  on  entering  tho  first  canyon,  which  is  a 
few  miles  below  station  3,  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  west,  which 
eou .  se  it )  olds  for  half  a  mile  or  more,  when  it  again  turns  to  the  north, 


24 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


rushinj.'-  down  the  vallej'^  through  a  succession  of  small  rocky  canyons, 
across  one  of  which,  3  miles  below  station  3,  the  trail  crosses  at  a  nar- 
row gorge  by  a  bridge  120  feet  long  and  about  30  feet  above  low-water 
mark  (67,  68,  69,  60,  61,  62).  This  bridge  consists  of  one  crib  built  on 
a  portion  of  bed  rock,  submerged  at  high  water,  its  corresponding 
abutments  being  rocky  reefs  on  the  opposite  shore.  To  hold  a  crib 
under  a  bridge  in  this  country  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  secure  a 
rocky  foundation,  for,  in  addition  to  the  great  velocity  with  which 
these  mountain  torrents  flow,  there  is  carried  an  immense  amount  of 
detritus,  carried  downstream  from  the  eroding  glacier  walls  many 
thousand  feet  above  on  the  mountain  summits,  which  increases  the 
specific  gravity  of  the  water  about  60  per  cent;  and  if  the  crib  is  not 
built  on  an  absolutely  solid  foundation  a  vibratorj'^  motion  is  soon  set 
up  which  carries  away  the  structure  and  a  washout  will  be  the  result. 
Following  down  the  west  bank  of  the  Chena,  after  crossing  this  bridge, 
for  a  distance  of  some  7  miles  over  a  large  broken  country,  the  laat 
canyon  is  passed  and  the  river  bottom  again  opens  out  into  a  gravel  bar 
formation,  which  continues  to  the  junction  of  the  Chena  and  Kanata 
rivers  called  the  North  Fork,  which  form  the  Tiekell,  which  river 
flows  into  the  Copper  through  a  series  of  canyons  some  15  miles  in 
length,  about  50  miles  below  Woods  Canyon. 

About  10  miles  ])elow  station  3,  in  a  cottonwood  grove,  will  be  found  a 
log  relief  cabin  (63),  placed  in  this  particular  location  as  a  harbor  of  safety 
to  the  traveler,  for  the  reason  that  in  this  canyon  section,  between  this 
cabin  and  station  3,  the  storms  in  winter,  which  last  from  three  to  five 
days,  appear  to  concentrate  their  fury.  Some  10  miles  below  th  is  cabin 
the  trail  crosses  a  small  peninsula,  locally  known  as  the  Stewart  Creek 
Divide  (64),  and,  keeping  close  to  the  base  of  the  mountain,  crosses 
Stewart  Creek  (66),  which  is  bridged  at  a  gorge  1  mile  above  its  mouth. 
After  crossing  Stewart  Creek,  the  trail  enters  a  heavily  tniibered  cotton - 
wood  grove,  through  which  it  passes  over  a  gravelly  flat  for  a  distance  of 
3  miles,  where  it  merges  on  the  banks  of  the  Kanata  (66).  The  mountain 
foi*mation  of  the  Kanata  Valley,  up  which  the  trail  passes,  is  less  precipi- 
tous in  character  than  that  of  the  Chena,  with  practically  u  nominal 
grade  of  some  800  feet  in  about  19  miles  to  a  low  bog  divide,  where  it 
has  its  source,  together  with  that  of  the  south  branch  of  the  Tonsena. 
To  avoid  this  stretch  of  bog  country,  thj  trail  bears  to  the  east,  cross- 
ing a  much  higher  divide,  but  over  solid  ground,  descends  into  the  Ton- 
sena Valley,  where  it  ci'osses  one  of  the  branches  of  that  stream,  and 
following  a  small  stream  coming  in  from  the  north,  continues  on  over  a 
low,  level,  thickly  timbered  country,  striking  the  Klutena  River  9  miles 
above  its  mouth.  Construction  work  on  this  road  was  completed  to 
the  southern  slope  of  the  Klutena  Divide,  where  a  log  stable  (67)  and 
a  small  <mbin  were  built  for  the  accommodation  of  public  animals,  ten 
of  which  were  left  there  for  the  winter,  so  as  to  be  available  for  early 


: 


COPPEB   BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


25 


n,  crosses 


work  in  the  interior  during  that  period  when  the  snow  on  the  coast  is 
too  deep  to  move  stock  in. 

Fwi  tl."'  use  of  those  prospecting  the  Chettyna  and  Kotsena  districts 
the  trail  should  be  located  down  the  Tonsena  Valley  to  a  crossing  of 
the  Copper;  while  for  those  traveling  into  the  Chestoch  Mia  and  Forty- 
Mila  districts  it  should  continue  northeast,  crossing  tue  Kluteii.i  and 
Tazlena  and  striking  the  head  of  the  Chestochena.  The  base  of  the 
main  range  should  be  followed  to  a  large  lake  which  has  an  outlet  into 
the  Slahna  Valley,  crossing  which  the  Tok  may  bo  followed  to  the 
Tanana.  For  the  Upper  Xanana  and  White  River  districts  a  crossing 
should  be  made  at  Copper  Center,  thence  in  an  easterly  direction 
across  the  big  bend  of  the  Copper  over  the  Mount  Sanford  Plateau  to 
the  south  of  Cornwall  Ridge,  again  crossing  the  Copper  near  its  head 
waters  to  the  Tanana  and  White  River  country.  (See  general  sketch 
of  the  Upper  Tanana  and  its  watershed.) 

As  that  portion  of  the  Trans-Alaskan  Military  Road  already  con- 
structed is  the  onl}'^  means  of  entering  central  Alaska  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the  traveling  public  that  what 
1  might  tenn  the  mountain  division,  from  station  2  to  the  Tonsena 
watershed,  should  be  kept  in  repair,  for,  while  in  its  green  condition 
and  bei'ore  the  roadbed  thoroughly  settles  and  becomes  packed  by 
traffic,  one  season's  noglect  would,  in  my  opinion,  put  it  in  an  impassa- 
ble condition  and  render  the  results  of  last  season's  labor,  as  well  as 
the  expense  of  construction  incurred,  a  profitless  undertaking  and  a 
total  loss  to  the  public.  Washouts  and  landslides  along  the  sidehill 
cuts  of  the  mountains  and  the  unequal  settling  of  the  cribs  in  bridge 
construction  render  it  imperative,  for  the  first  j'^ear  at  least  following 
construction,  that  this  trail  should  be  kept  in  repair  to  be  of  anj'  per- 
manent value. 

To  eliminate  as  far  as  possible  the  loss  of  life  from  freezing,  incident 
to  traveling  over  the  divide  in  winter  from  station  2  to  station  3,  1 
began  the  construction  of  a  telephone  line,  which  was  carried  up  to 
within  3  miles  of  the  summit,  when,  owing  to  the  lack  of  transporta- 
tion, I  was  forced  to  abandon  its  completion.  To  connect  with  this 
line,  I  started  a  second  from  my  cantonment  at  Port  Valdez,  which  I 
carried  to  within  a  mile  and  a  ball  of  station  2.  It  was  my  intention 
to  paint  the  poles  on  the  summit  with  alternate  rings  of  black  and 
white,  similar  to  the  guideposts  used  on  the  Russian  postal  roads 
through  Siberia,  but  my  transportation  failing  I  was  unable  to  connect 
these  linos. 

During  the  latter  part  of  June  and  the  fore  pai't  of  July  the  enormous 
flow  of  water  (68, 69,  70,  71,  72)  from  the  Valdez  Glacier  (6,  73, 74)  bade 
fair  to  wash  away  not  only  the  town  of  Valdez  (76,  76,  77,  78,  79,  80) 
but  our  cantonment.  The  volume  was  so  great  as  to  entirely  cut  oif 
all  communication  with  the  interior,  except  from  a  narrow  strip  of 


^■ 


26 


COPPEB  BIVER   EXPLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


land  at  the  mouth  of  Lowe  River,  at  which  point  I  constructed  a  log 
storehouse  and  cabin,  designated  as  station  1,  and  practically  the 
Houthern  terminal  of  the  military  road.  From  observations  made  dur- 
ing high  water,  I  found  that  during  the  latter  part  of  July  and  the 
first  part  of  August  that  the  gravel  bars  in  Lowe  River  were  covered  to 
such  a  depth  (46)  that  it  was  necessary  to  build  the  trail  along  asidehill. 
Having  completed  this  work  I,  on  the  27th  of  July,  relieved  Lieuten- 
ant Babcock  in  charge  of  the  (construction  camp  and  sent  him  forward 
with  a  locating  party  to  carry  the  line  if  possible  to  the  crossing  of 
the  Klutena  River,  but  owing  to  the  dense  growth  of  underbrush, 
which  had  to  be  cut  before  horses  could  be  taken  through,  it  was 
found  that  the  cutting  of  the  preliminary  line  involved  about  a.s  much 
labor  as  the  clearing  of  a  right  of  way  for  a  railroad  in  an  ordinpry 
country.  The  farthest  jwint  north,  therefoj'e,  reached  by  this  party 
was  the  Tonsena  Valley. 

THE  ESTABLISHMKNT  OF  THE  ALT^AMERICAN  1>()STAL  SERVK^E  FROM 
R)RT  VAT.DEZ,  ON  THE  PACIFIC  COAST,  TO  EAGLE  CITY,  ON  THE 
YUKON  RIVER. 

On  the  3d  of  April  Mr.  C.  Ij.  Wayland,  inspector  of  postal  depart- 
ment, reported  to  me  under  instructions  from  the  Postmaster-General, 
to  accon.^>any  the  expedition  with  a  view  to  establishing  a  postal  route 
from  Valdez  via  Copper  Center,  Slahna  River,  Mentasta  Pass,  Tanana 
River,  Foi'ty-Mile  River,  to  Eagle  City.  After  a  conference  it  was 
decided  that  1  should  take  Mr.  Wayland's  outfit  up  with  me  on  the 
steamer  hxceMw,  direct  to  Valdez,  while  he  stopped  at  Juneau  and 
Skagwaj',  joining  the  expedition  later  at  Port  Valdez,  which  he  did. 

In  the  i-ummer  of  18J>8  a  postmaster  was  appointed  at  Port  Valdez 
by  Inspector  Clumb,  of  the  postal  (U'[)artment,  but,  unfortunately,  the 
route  was  not  extended  from  Orca  (the  nearest  point  on  the  established 
postal  roi'.te)  to  Port  Valdez.  The  mail  contractors  of  the  Pacific 
Steam  Whaling  Coir.pany  refused  to  deliver  the  mail  to  the  postmaster 
at  Valdez,^  but  turned  it  over  to  their  local  agent  for  distribution,  carry- 
ing the  mail  in  an  unlocked  pouch  from  Orca  to  Valdez,  which  facts 
wei'e  r(>p()rted  to  me  by  the  postmaster,  Mr.  Beattv,  in  the  form  of  a 
complaint.  1  suggested  that  he  let  the  matter  lie  <!ver  for  a  few  weeks 
until  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Wayland,  who  was  the  proper  person  to  adjust 
such  matters. 

On  the  first  delivery  of  mail  by  the  contractors,  after  our  arrival  at 
Valdez,  a  new  complication  arose.  The  postmaster  at  Orca  had  locked 
the  mail  pouch,  so  that  the  local  agent  at  Valdez,  who  had  no  key,  could 
not  open  it  to  distribute  the  uiail,  and  as  the  postmaster,  Mr.  Beatty, 
would  not  give  up  the  key,  the  delivery  of  the  mail  was  delayed  >)y  the 
local  agent.  As  there  were  a  grejit  niunber  of  people  awaiting  advices 
fr<mi  home,  I  informed  the  local  agent,  Mr.  Robert ■<.  that  if  he  did  not 
turn  the  pouch  over  to  the  proper  person,  designated  by  the  postal 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


27 


authorities  to  receive  it,  that  1  would  take  the  pouch  from  him  by  force 
and  deliver  it  to  the  poHtmaster.  He  delivered  the  pouch  to  the  post- 
master. Upon  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Wayland,  I  called  his  attention  to 
the  existing  conditions  and  informed  him  of  my  action,  of  which  he 
i\pproved.  He  then  readjusted  matters,  appointing  a  new  postmaster, 
which  greatly  improved  the  mail  service. 

After  the  milibiry  trail  had  been  opened  up  from  the  Keystone 
Canj^on,  1  .'itartod  a  detachment  (81,  82),  in  charge  of  Mr.  John  F.  Rice 
(whose  report  is  submitted  herewith),  to  escort  Mr.  Wayland  through 
the  Copper  River  and  Tanana  valleys  to  Kagle  (Mty,  on  the  Yukon. 

EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  COPPER  RIVER   .DRAINAGE  DURINO  THE 

8EA&0N  OF  1899. 

On  the  15th  of  June  the  topographers  having  triangled  and  taken 
the  soundings  of  Port  Valdez  and  carried  the  topogniphical  work  up  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Keystone  Canyon  to  connect  with  that  of  First  Lieut. 
Walter  C.  Babcock,  Eighth  Cavalry,  topographical  ofticer,  I  directed 
Topographer  Oscar  Rohn  (whose  report  is  submittA^d  herewith)  to  pro- 
ceed, with  an  outfit  of  pack  hors«;s  and  dogs  (83,  84, 147),  into  the  interior 
via  Thompson  Pass,  thence  down  the  Tonsena  River  to  a  crossing  on 
the  Copper,  and  from  that  point  to  explore  the  country  in  the  (Jhettyna 
River  drainage  and,  if  possible,  cross  o>'er  from  this  valley  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Copper  River,  thence  down  the  Copper  River  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Klutena,  in  time  to  return  to  the  coa^t  not  later  than 
October  25.  In  addition  to  sketching  in  the  topography  of  the  country 
traveled  over,  Mr.  Rohn  was  directed  to  gather  all  useful  in^'ormation 
bearing  on  the  geological,  agricultural,  and  forestry  retsources  and  to 
determine,  if  possible,  the  alleged  existence  of  geysers  among  the  foot- 
hills of  Mount  W^rangell. 

On  the  27th  of  July  I  sent  Mr.  A.  M.  Powell,  one  of  my  guides  who 
had  accompanied  me  during  the  exploration  of  the  previous  season,  to 
proceed  over  into  the  Klutena  country,  and,  starting  from  a  point  of 
departure  on  the  Klutena  River  locally  known  as  the  Devils  Elbow, 
to  go  in  a  general  course  of  east  by  north  to  the  foothills  of  the  main 
Alaskan  Range,  thence  in  an  easterly  direction  along  these  foothills  to 
the  head  waters  of  the  Slahna  River  in  the  vicinity  of  Menttista  Pass, 
to  note  the  location  of  availal)le  haj'  meadows  and  sites  for  substiitions, 
and  the  deptli  of  streums  with  a  view  to  th<!  selection  of  sites  for  the 
construction  of  bridges. 

I  submit  herewith  a  detailed  report  of  Mr.  PowelFs  explorations. 


FKASIBILITY  OF  RAILROAD  CONSTRUCTION  FROM   PORT  VALDKZ  THROUOH 
CENTRAL   ALASKA    INTO   THE   YUKON   COUNTRY. 

The  harbor  of  Port  Valdez  (86)  is  what  is  technically  known  as  a 
submerged  valley,  the  head  of  which  is  filled  in  with  glacial  deposits 
and  terminal   moraine.     The  harbor  from  Stanton  Narrows  to  the 


28 


COPPER  BtVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


!  I 


I  • 


L 


mouth  of  Lowe  River  (86)  is  some  10  miles  long  by  3  miles  wide.  The 
environment  is  a  series  of  lofty,  saw-tooth  mountains  (87, 88),  plunging 
abruptly  into  tho  ba3^  Owing  to  the  great  depth  of  water  and  the 
proximity  of  the  warm  Japan  current,  this  harbor,  v.  ith  the  exception 
of  a  mile  and  a  half  at  its  head,  where  the  fresh  water  flowing  on  the 
surface  of  the  salt  forms  a  scum  of  ice  from  1  to  6  inches  thick  at 
spasmodic  intervals  during  the  month  of  January,  is  accessible  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year  for  ships  of  any  size.  The  most  desirable  anchorage, 
owing  to  the  great  depth  of  water,  which  ranges  from  80  to  112  fathoms, 
is  a  flat  about  1  mile  square  below  the  mouth  of  Lowe  River,  where 
a  30-fathom  anchorage  can  be  found  at  low  water  up  to  1,000  yards 
from  shore,  where  the  water  drops  off  to  the  depth  of  70  or  80  fathoms. 

Owing  to  the  immense  flow  of  water  from  the  Valdcz  Glacier,  which 
is  so  erratic  in  its  course  as  to  wash  the  entire  plain  between  the  foot 
of  this  glacier  and  tide  water  (86),  the  only  feasible  point  of  departure 
which  would  embrace  all  the  natural  facilities  for  railroad  terminals 
would  be  a  narrow  neck  of  land  from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  broad  and  extending  up  the  Lowe  River  Valley  some  5  miles 
and  south  of  a  small  stream  which  is  an  outlet  of  Robe  Lake.  Fol- 
lowing up  the  Lowe  River  Valley,  the  line  would  naturally  keep  to 
the  north  side  over  a  practically  nominal  grade,  passing  through  the 
Keystone  Canyon  with  ordinary  canyon  work,  and  emerging  on  the  flood 
plain  of  the  inter-canyon  basin.  The  operator  would  from  this  point 
have  the  choice  of  two  routes,  one  route  following  an  easterlj^  direction 
over  Marshall  Pass  at  an  elevation  of  1,700  feet,  and  down  the  Tasnuna 
to  the  Copper  River  Valley;  the  other,  turning  to  the  north,  crossing 
the  mountain  range  at  Thompson  Pass  with  an  altitude  of  2,600  feet, 
thence  down  the  Tiekell  River  Valley  through  the  swampy  pass  at 
the  head  of  the  Kunata.  thence  down  the  Tonsena  into  the  Copper  River 
Valley. 

The  future  for  a  railroad  through  this  section  of  Alaska  is,  in  m;' 
opinion,  very  promising,  owing  to  the  presence  of  large  zones  of 
heavilj'^  mineralized  copper  deposits,  the  development  of  which  will 
unquestionably  yield  a  local  tonnage  of  great  volume.  The  proximity 
of  tie  and  bridge  timber  and  the  absence  of  any  great  engineering  fea- 
tures would  render  railroad  construction  in  this  section  a  comparatively 
easy  problem  for  a  mountain  division. 

1  submit  herewith  a  detailed  report  of  Exlward  Gillette,  the  engineer 
of  the  expedition. 

GEOLOdlOAI,   AND   AGRICULTURAL   POSSIBILITIES  OF    THE   COPPER  RIVER 

DISTRICT. 

During  the  summer  of  1899  the  prospecting  of  some  fifteen  or  twenty 
men  over  an  area  much  larger  in  extent  than  that  covered  by  all  the 


uMTJimanmnBia 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


29 


New  England  States,  resulted  in  a  practical  demonstration  of  the 
existence  of  heavily  mineralized  zones  of  copper,  borite,  and  other 
ores  in  the  mountainous  districts  of  the  Chcttyna,  Mount  Blackburn, 
Tanana,  and  White  River,  which  collectively  may  be  classified  as  the 
Wrangell  Series,  and  in  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  the 
head  of  the  Chestochena  River.  From  this  area  I  succeeded  in  obtain- 
ing thirty-five  hand  samples  of  average  ore,  which  upon  assay  showed 
the  presence  of  a  percentage  of  from  16  to  81  per  cent  in  copper,  with 
traces  of  gold  and  silver.  There  can  be  very  little  doubt  that  in  favor- 
able localities  of  the  Wrangell  group  of  mountains  (which  are  volcanic 
in  origin)  concentrated  copper  deposit''  will  be  found  in  great  masses. 
It  is  not  uncommon  to  find  nuggets  of  native  copper  in  the  shape  of 
rtoat,  varying  in  size  from  small  bird  shot  to  pieces  weighing  many 
pounds.  While  this  metal  seems  to  predominate  in  an  oxid  ■  'cd  form, 
cinnabar,  galena,  gold,  silver,  and  iron  ores  have  been  foun'^!  in  many 
places;  while  placer  deposits  carrying  gold  as  coarse  as  corn  kernels 
have  been  discovered  on  Quartz  Creek,  Fall  Creek,  and  on  the  head 
waters  of  the  Chestochena.  On  the  latter  stream  the  pay  gravel  is 
said  to  run  from  $1  to  $25  per  cubic  yard.  Coal  deposits  of  the  Kenai 
series  were  found  on  the  Tazlena,  Gakona,  and  Chestochena,  which  ai'e 
said  to  be  of  a  very  high  ord'^r  of  lignite  and  of  economic  value. 
Marble  of  various  colors  is  found  in  quite  extended  dikes. 

Attention  is  invited  to  the  subreports  of  Mr.  Oscar  Rohn,  H.  M. 
Powell,  and  H.  B.  Pearson,  covering  the  districts  above  referred  to. 

In  addition  to  the  information  relative  to  the  agricultural  possibili- 
ties of  this  section  of  the  country,  reported  on  by  me  last  season,  I 
desire  to  call  particular  attention  to  the  fact  that  potitoes,  beets, 
turnips,  radishes,  pease,  and  lettuce  for  the  sustenance  of  man  may 
be  grown  in  almost  unlimited  quantities,  while  oats,  rye,  and  wheat 
were  matured  during  the  past  season  (89). 

With  a  view  to  giving  employment  to  the  stranded  prospectors,  I 
was  authorized  to  accept  proposals  for  hay  contracts  at  Port  Valdez 
and  in  the  Copper  River  Valley,  which  resulted  in  the  putting  up  of 
some  70  to  80  tons  of  hay,  of  as  fine  a  quality  ivs  that  usually  delivered 
under  like  contracts  at  military  posts  in  Monta.'ia  and  Wyoming. 

I  wish  to  emphatically  call  attention  to  the  fact  that,  owing  to  the 
absence  of  that  season  known  as  the  fall  of  the  year,  the  transition 
from  summer  to  winter  being  so  rapid — usually  a  matter  of  a  few 
days — the  grjjss  is  blighted  by  the  frost  while  green  and  becomes 
valueless  as  an  article  of  forage. 

Should  the  mineral  resources  of  this  country  develop  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  support  a  large  mining  population  that  would  consume  a 
local  product  the  future  for  the  small  farmer  in  this  section  of  Alaska 
will  undoubtedly  be  attractive  to  many. 


30 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


;  , 


Tb«  most  promising  and  lucrative  future  will  be  the  driving  of  cut- 
tle from  Port  Valdez  into  the  Yukon  mining  districts.  Thousands  of 
htnul  of  horses  and  cattle  can  be  subsisted  upon  the  grasses  of  this  sec- 
tion ))y  crossing  in  the  summer,  and  on  the  grain  and  hay  that  can  be 
grown  by  the  s.nall  farmer  and  sold  at  a  handsome  profit  during  the 
winter. 

The  high  freight  rates  of  marine  transportation  from  Seattle  to  the 
Yukon  River  points,  and  those  of  dog  and  man  transportation  from  the 
latter  points  to  the  head  waters  of  the  various  creeks  on  which  are 
located  the  mining  camps  of  the  Forty-Mile  district,  brings  the  cost 
of  transportation  of  food  into  that  country  up  to  the  estimated  figure 
of  45  cents  per  pound  and  renders  the  $10  a  day  diggings  valueless  under 
the  existing  conditions.  As  the  cost  of  steamer  transportation  between 
Seattle  and  Haines  Mission  (the  southern  terminal  of  the  Dalton  trail, 
over  which  cattle  are  now  driven  to  Rink  Rapids  on  the  Yukon,  where 
they  are  slaughtered  and  the  carcasses  shipped  down  the  river  to  Daw- 
son, Eagle,  and  other  points),  and  that  to  Valdez  (the  terminal  of  the 
Trans-Alaskan  Militjiry  Road)  would  be  aix)ut  the  same,  the  saving  in 
mileage  from  Valdez  to  the  Forty -Mile  country  would  be  some  200 
miles.  From  Valdez  ca.  ;e  can  be  delivered  on  the  hoof  to  any  of  the 
camps  now  in  operation  in  the  Forty-Mile  district,  thus  saving  the 
cost  of  their  transportation  from  the  coast.  To  make  this  drive  the 
stock  should  l)e  landed  at  Valdez  not  later  than  June  1  and  graze 
through  the  Forty -Mile  country,  where  they  should  arrive  not  latter 
than  August  20.  From  this  point  small  bands  could  be  driven  to  the 
various  camps  and  slaughtered  late  in  September,  when  the  climatic 
condition  would  keep  the  carcasses  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation 
for  consumption  as  desired.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  it  was  desirable  to 
winter  the  animals  at  these  points  for  delivery  in  the  early  spring, 
thousands  of  tons  of  hay  can  be  put  up  in  the  Tanana  Drainage  for 
winter  feed  to  carry  over  the  stock. 


i 


TRANSPOItTATlON    IJKST    ADAPTKl)    FOR    SERVICE    IN   THE    COPPER    RIVER 

DISTRICT. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  transportation  taken  north  for  the  Alas- 
kan Exploring  Expedition  No.  3  being  starved  or  frozen  to  death 
during  the  winter  of  18{)8-99  (see  Report  of  Edward  Cashman,  quar- 
termaster's employee,  appended)  near  Taral  on  t-  e  Copper  River,  it 
was  decided  to  ship  north  for  service  a  thoroughly  broken  pack  horse, 
ranging  in  about  the  same  climatic  conditions  in  the  States  as  would 
be  found  in  that  portion  of  Alaska  in  which  the  expedition  was  to 
operate.  With  that  end  in  view,  a  train  of  thirty  animals  was  selected 
bj'^  a  board  of  oflScers  at  Fort  Yellowstone,  thoroughly  well  broken 
and  wonderfully  effective  in  service  (90,  91).    These  animals  were  a 


H 

'•■•i' 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


31 


marvel  of  enduraiu'c.  On  the  29th  day  of  April  they  pa(!ki',d  their 
first  load  out  of  Valdez  in  snow  fi'oni  3  to  5  feet  deep,  in  which  they 
were  perfectly  at  home.  As  the  snow  melted  and  the  water  in  the 
river  rose,  they  behaved  equally  well  in  fording  the  swiftest  streams. 
Later  on,  when  the  rainy  season  set  in,  they  kept  in  good  flesh  and  tlid 
excellent  work.  Early  in  the  seaaon  I  saw  from  the  consumption  of 
food  at  the  construction  camp  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  stock 
the  substations  along  the  trail  and  keep  the  construction  camp  sup- 
plied with  the  horse  train  alone.  I  therefore  asked  for  a  pack  train 
of  20  mules,  to  be  used  over  that  part  of  the  trail  that  had  been 
completed  from  Valdez  to  the  head  of  the  Chena  River  or  station  3. 
From  this  point  it  was  my  intention  to  supply  the  construction  camp 
by  means  of  the  horse  train.  On  the  20th  day  of  August  I  was  noti- 
fied that  the  mule  train  had  been  shipped  from  San  Francisco  and  was 
due  to  leave  Seattle  on  the  1st  of  September  and  arrive  at  Valdez  not 
later  than  the  10th;  but,  owing  to  the  failure  of  the  quartermaster  at 
Seattle  to  promptly  transship  these  animals,  they  did  not  aj-rive  in 
Valdez  until  the  1st  of  October,  when  it  was  found  that  their  condi- 
tion was  such  as  to  render  them  unserviceable  during  the  latter  part 
of  the  season.  The  stalls  prepared  for  these  animals  on  board  the 
steamer  Cl^vt'land  were  of  such  a  flimsy,  shoddy  construction  that  the 
partitions  were  crushed  in  while  in  transit  and  five  or  six  of  the  ani- 
mals trampled  to  death,  while  all  were  more  or  less  seriously  bruised. 

The  packers  sent  north  with  this  train,  being  natives  of  California 
and  Arizona,  were  wholly  unfit  for  the  work  in  hand,  and  abandoned  a 
cargo  of  supplies  near  the  summit  of  Thompson  Pass,  and  returned  to 
Port  Valdez  to  be  discharged.  These  supplies  were  afterwards  packed 
over  the  pass  by  my  Montana  crew  (92).  The  loss  of  the  services  of 
the  mule  train  was  pai'ticularly  vexatious,  and  in  my  opinion  was 
entirely  uncalled  for.  Had  the  stall  accommodations  been  properly 
constructed  there  could  have  been  no  breaking  of  the  side  rails  of  the 
stalls  and  consequently  no  mangling  of  the  stock. 

The  loss  of  the  services  of  this  transportation  curtailed  the  season 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  days,  which  meant  a  corresponding  reduction 
in  the  mileage  of  the  trail  of  some  25  or  30  miles;  for,  notwithstand- 
ing the  fact  that  we  packed  the  horses  until  they  dropped  on  the  trail 
from  exhaustion,  due  to  the  insufficiency  of  food  after  the  grass  had 
been  cut  down  by  the  frost,  we  were  unable  to  get  supplies  into  the 
construction  camp  to  keep  the  trail  gang  at  work. 

The  most  ser\  iceable  equipment  operating  in  this  country  was  found 
to  be  a  pack  saddle  combining  desirable  features  of  the  McClellan 
riding  saddle  and  the  Indian  sawbuck  (91).  The  Indian  sawbuck, 
owing  to  the  lowness  of  its  crosstrees,  has  always  been  a  horse  killer, 
owing  to  iQe  fact  that  it  would  invariably  jam  up  the  animal's  withers 


il 


32 


COPPER   BIVES   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


^       I 


M 


in  traveling  down  a  long  hill.  To  retain  this  crosstreo,  which  was 
indispensable  to  the  unskilled  pticker  in  rigging  his  squaw  hitch  with 
which  to  hold  his  load  in  place  on  the  saddle,  I  took  a  very  heavy 
McClellan  tree,  pared  out  the  space  under  the  pcnimel  and  cantle  (so 
as  to  remove  the  pressure  from  tlie  withers  of  any  ordinary  horse), 
and  carved  out  a  knob  or  hitching  post  on  the  top  with  which  to  rig 
the  sling  rope,  gave  the  cantle  about  a  45-degree  sheer,  rigged  the 
sides  of  the  tree  with  iron  loops  for  stirrup  straps,  so  that,  when 
not  loaded,  it  could  be  used  as  a  riding  saddle.  In  place  of  the 
ordinary  canvas  cinch,  which  it  was  found  soon  rotted,  I  used  the 
hair  cinch  of  a  riding  saddle.  For  breeching  and  breast  strap  a  pad- 
ded canvas  band  was  used,  which,  when  wet,  molded  itself  nearly  to 
the  shape  of  the  horse  and  prevented  chafing.  For  the  use  of  small 
detachments  with  unskilled  packers  I  used  large  canvas  panniers, 
reenforced  with  leather,  provided  with  two  leather  sling  straps  that 
hook  over  the  front  and  back  knob  of  the  saddle.  These  panniers 
were  fastened  under  the  horse's  belly  by  means  of  a  light  cinch, 
which  obviated  the  use  of  a  lash  rope.  Such  a  rigging,  in  my 
opinion,  Avould  be  extremely  valuable  for  small  commands  operating 
in  the  mountain  divisions  in  Cuba  and  the  Philippine  Islands.  Owing 
to  the  heavy  growth  of  underbrush  the  picket  line  can  not  be  used, 
but  side  lines,  with  animals  thatare  hard  to  catch,  were  found  to  be  very 
eflfective.  Horse  covers  and  cheap  saddle  blankets  are  valueless  in  the 
coast  section,  owing  to  constant  rain,  which  renders  it  impossible  to 
dry  the  rigging  out.  The  shoe  used  was  the  "  Never-slip  brand," 
which  is  Jin  ordinary  plate  with  two  holes  on  each  jlde,  into  which 
may  be  screwed  four  pointed  cones,  which  were  intended  to  take  the 
place  of  heel  and  toe  caulks  when  traveling  over  icy  surfaces.  The 
valuable  points  of  this  shoe  are  that  when  traveling  through  deep 
snow  or  shipping  stock  these  cones  may  be  removed  from  the  shoo 
and  thus  eliminate  the  danger. of  a  horse  caulking  himself. 

To  prevent  <*hafing  the  animal  in  packing  the  hardware  of  a  camp 
outfit,  canvas  pads  fitting  over  the  saddle  are  indispensable. 

The  most  important  article  of  an  outfit  is  a  shoeing  kit.  Owing  to 
the  constant  travel  over  wet  ground,  the  animal's  feet  soon  become 
soft  and  the  pulling  off  of  shoes  a  daily  occurrence. 

The  equipment  of  a  pack  train  for  service  in  Alaska  should  be 
about  the  same,  so  far  as  involves  the  personnel  of  the  train,  as  that 
in  any  other  country,  with  the  exception  that  the  selection  of  a  packer 
from  the  mountainous  regions  in  the  Northern  part  of  the  States  is 
almost  mandatory  to  insure  success  in  operating  early  in  the  spring 
or  late  in  the  fall. 


!i 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


83 


MILITARY   KESEllVATIGNS. 

To  equip  this  route  with  the  necessary  forage  for  pjick  animals  trav- 
eling l»etween  Port  Valdez  and  Fort  Egbert  it  will  be  necessary  to 
reserve  a  number  of  hay  meadows  so  situated  as  to  distribute  th«5  forage 
at  points  from  30  to  40  miles  apart  along  the  trail.  The  first  of  this 
series  of  hay  meadows  was  located  last  August  near  the  head  of  the 
Kanata  River,  where  some  40  tons  of  hay  wore  cut  and  stacked. 

The  reservation  selected  by  me  in  1898  for  the  cantonment  of  the 
Alaskan  Exploring  Expedition,  No.  2,  and  which  was  used  in  1899  by 
the  Copper  River  Exploring  Expedition,  was  found  to  be  utterly  val- 
ueless for  any  purpose  whatsoever,  owing  to  its  liability  to  overflow 
from  streams  formed  by  the  melting  of  the  ice  of  the  Valdez  glacier 
during  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August,  I,  therefore,  in  com- 
pany with  Lieutenant  Babcock,  topographical  officer,  and  Edwin 
Gillette,  engineer  of  the  expedition,  carefully  inspected  all  available 
sites  for  a  inilitary  reservation  along  the  shores  of  Port  Valdez, 
and,  as  a  result  of  that  inspection,  a  site  (150)  was  selected,  designated 
on  the  accompanying  map  as  "Ludington's  Landing."  The  points  of 
intrinsic  value  that  recommend  its  selection  are  its  water  supply, 
which  consists  of  a  mountain  stream  that  flows  uU  the  year  round, 
carrying  with  it  sufficient  fall  for  all  sanitary  purposes;  the  proxim- 
ity of  deep  water  and  good  anchorage,  where  ships  laden  with  build- 
ing material  can  find  excellent  facilities  for  discharging  their  cargoes. 
The  wood  supply  in  the  neighborhood  of  Port  Valdez  appears  almost 
inexhaustible.  With  the  aid  of  the  steam  launch  attached  to  the 
expedition  (185)  rafts  may  be  prepared  and  towed  to  Ludington's 
Landing. 

The  topography  of  the  mountains  in  the  rear  of  this  site  is  such  as 
to  oflfer  a  most  excellent  rifle  range.  It  is  just  far  enough  from  the 
head  of  Port  Valdez  to  be  beyond  the  influences  of  the  whisky  element 
to  be  found  in  frontier  towns. 

In  the  early  part  of  June  I  inspected  a  large  meadow  at  the  mouth 
of  Mineral  Creek,  almost  opposite  Ludington's  Landing,  with  a  view 
of  locating  it  aa  a  hay  meadow,  but  owing  to  the  subsequent  develop- 
ment of  a  local  climatic  condition  that  indicated  more  or  less  rain  daily 
during  the  months  of  July,  August  and  September,  I  abandoned  the 
idea  of  locating  a  hay  ranch  for  the  main  station  in  Port  Valdez,  but 
am  led  to  believe,  from  inquiry  among  the  squaw  men  of  Prince 
Williams  Sound,  that  a  hay  reservation  of  ample  proportions  can  be 
located  at  the  head  of  Port  Fidalgo,  where  there  are  no  glaciers,  and 
therefore  free  from  local  rains  incident  thereto. 
S.  Doc.  306 3 


84 


COPPER   RIVEH    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


i 


OANTONMIONT   AT  VALDKZ-WJUIPMKNT  AVAILABLK   FOR  OONSTUDC- 
TION  OF  TRAIL— HFXJOMMENDATION  FOR  THK  HKAHON  OF  1900. 

Tho  cantonment  at  Valdez  consists  of  four  log  buildings,  (thinked 
with  moss  and  roofed  with  shingles.  One  of  the  l)uilding8  is  an  office, 
the  loft  of  which  is  occupied  as  a  sleeping  apartment  by  the  non- 
commissioned officer  in  charge  of  the  detachment;  another  is  used 
as  a  bunk  house  (<^),  at  present  occupied  by  3  enlistt^d  men  and  18 
quartermaster  employees;  another  as  a  mess  house  (16)  for  tho 
accommodation  of  enlisted  men  and  quartermaster  employees;  the 
remaining  building  is  a  log  stable  (96,  06)  capable  of  sheltering  40 
animals.  In  addition  to  this  stable  is  a  large  stable  built  of  boards, 
with  a  rooting  of  tar  paper,  built  to  accommodate  the  transportation 
of  the  Cook  Inlet  Expedition. 

The  Lraiisportation  equipment  consists  of  19  pack  mides,  with 
rigging  complete;  63  pack  horses,  with  rigging  more  or  less  incom- 
plete, due  to  wear  and  tear  of  last  season's  work. 

At  the  close  of  the  season,  October  31,  189S),  all  .quartermaster 
employees,  except  those  absolutely  necessary  to  car«  for  the  public 
property  pei-taining  to  the  expedition  were  discharged.  Tho  packers 
brought  up  from  the  States  were  given  transportation  to  their  homos 
as  per  terms  of  agreement  when  employed,  while  the  four  elected  to 
remain  wore  continued  in  the  service. 

To  carry  out  the  recommendations  of  Maj.  P.  H.  Ray,  Eighth 
U.  S.  Infantry,  commanding  the  District  of  North  Alaska,  looking  to 
the  completion  of  the  trans- Alaskan  military  road  from  Port  Valdez 
to  some  common  point  on  the  Tanana  River,  to  where  he  would  com- 
plete a  wagon  road  from  Forty-Mile,  thus  giving  a  continuous  route 
from  tide  water  on  the  Pacific  to  the  headquarters  of  the  district, 
Fort  Egbert,  Alaska,  1  had  built  in  a  favorable  locality,  at  the  head 
of  the  Kanata  River,  a  stable  (67)  and  bunkhousc,  (o  accommodate  ten 
head  of  horses  and  two  packers.  On  a  meadow  nearby  I  had  cut 
and  staciked  some  45  tons  of  red- top  hay,  on  which  to  subsist  the 
animals  duiing  the  winter,  so  that  work  could  be  pushed  from  both 
side^  of  the  Coast  Range  of  mountains  early  in  the  spring,  before  the 
heavy  crust,  over  which  most  of  the  winter  traffic  is  carried  on,  had 
been  weakened  by  the  action  of  the  sun,  which  renders  the  snow  soft 
and  unfit  for  traffic  for  a  period  of  some  two  or  three  weeks.  My  idea 
was  to  push  out  from  Valdez  with  the  lightest  pack  horses  attached  to 
sleds  and  haul  enough  supplies  over  to  Station  3  to  last  the  construc- 
tion party  up  well  on  into  the  fall.  From  Station  3  I  anticipate  that 
I  will  have  no  trouble'  in  moving  these  supplies  by  pack  animals  at 
least  one  month  earlier  than  I  could  do  so  from  Station  2  after  the 
snow  had  begun  to  get  soft. 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


86 


An  it  will  1mi  iMHrcHHary  to  provide  croswingH  ut  th<*  Klutcnti  and  Tais- 
Iciia  rivri'H,  and  an  it  Ih  imponitivo  that  thiH  work  Nhoidd  l>o  dono  at 
low  water,  when  a  solid  foundation  can  ))e  made  on  whii^h  the  crihs  or 
ahutmentM  of  the  bridge  may  rcut,  I  had  in  victw  the  utilizing  of  the 
pack  horses  wintered  in  the  interior  for  packing  suj)plies  froni  Station 
8  to  the  crossings  above  referred  to  at  the  Klutena  and  Tazlena 
rivers,  to  sulwtist  small  working  [Mrties  in  putting  in  these  cribs  or 
abutments  in  advance  of  the  main  party. 

To  carry  on  this  work  during  the  season  of  1J)00,  I  recommend  that 
two  of  the  employees  of  last  sejison  be  retained,  vi/.,  Mr.  C.  E. 
Worthington  as  transitman,  and  Lars  Holland,  foreman  of  the  con- 
struction gang.  The  latter  is  eminently  fitted  for  his  duties,  l)eing 
skilled  in  trail  grading  and  heavy  timber  work,  and,  above  all,  having 
tine  control  of  his  workmen.  The  chief  of  the  party  l(K-ating  the 
line  in  advance  of  the  construction  party  nuist  l>e  one  with  a  pro- 
fessional standing  at  stake,  who  is  personally  responsible  for  the  lino 
of  liocation  and  over  whom  there  is  an  official  control  greater  than 
thaiiof  employer  over  employee,  i.  e.,  a  commissioned  officer.  For 
this  work  I  most  urgently  recommend,  as  indispensable  to  the  best 
interests  of  the  service,  tiiat  First  Lieut.  Walter  C.  BalKHxsk,  Eighth 
United  States  Cavalry,  be  continued  on  this  detail,  where  he  has 
proven  his  ability  to  select  the  best  ground,  through  intricate  and 
perjtlexing  stretches  of  country,  where  faulty  location  means  an 
unnecessary  expep'Mture  of  public  funds,  a  loss  of  time,  and  a  reflec- 
tion upon  the  officer  in  command  of  the  expedition.  As  an  example: 
At  the  lie^inning  of  road  building  in  1899,  the  faulty  location  for  the 
line  by  a  Mr.  Palmer  and  his  lack  of  energy  resulted  in  a  delay  of 
some  ten  days  and  a  week's  wasted  labor  by  the  construction  gang 
while  relocating  his  faulty  work.  The  locating  and  construcition 
parties  for  the  continuance  of  this  work  should  leave  the  cantonment 
at  Valdez  not  later  than  March  10  next,  and  should  consist  of  a  lieu- 
tenant in  charge  of  the  locating  party  with  2  scouts,  1  transit  man,  2 
axmen,  and  1  cook;  for  the  construction  party,  the  officer  in  charge 
of  the  expedition,  35  axmen,  4  rockworkers,  2  cooks,  and  1  fore- 
man; for  the  packers,  1  chief  packer,  12  packers,  and  one  cook.  An 
increase  of  the  ordinary  ration  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the 
subsistence  of  employees  engaged  in  construction  work  at  this  lati- 
tude. The  strength  of  the  enlisted  men  now  on  duty  at  the  canton- 
ment and  substations — 9  in  number — should  be  increased,  and  an  offi- 
cer detailed  to  act  as  quartermaster  and  commissary  of  the  expedition 
and  to  construct  suitable  quarters  that  would  be  at  least  comfortable 
for  the  command  during  the  coming  season. 

In  submitting  this  report  I  desire,  in  justice  to  myself,  to  caU  atten- 
tion to  the  fact  that  it  has  been  prepared  entirely  from  my  notebook. 


86 


OOPPKR   RIVER   EXFLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


i 


niKi  from  momory,  and  in  atlvancoof  tho  re|)<)rt«  of  my  MulMU'dlimtoH.. 
While  tho  information  wutimitted  covorH  aliout  all  of  valuu  gloanad 
during;  the  pant  hoomom,  it  m  not  presented  in  ho  condeiiHed  a  form  oh 
I  would  wish  to  have  it,  were  the  time  at  band  in  which  to  review  the 
subreport's  which  are  prenented  herewith. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

W.  R.  AuEUcitoMHii':, 
Captain  9i(l  U.  S.  Infantnj^ 
Commaiuling  Cirpiter  River  KxpUtmuj  Expedition . 
Tho  Adjutant-General  U.  S.  A., 

Washinytoi)^  1>.  V. 


BBPOEl 


Sir:  I  1" 
that  have 

On  Janu 
24,  with  th 
that  time, 
prevent  a 
remains  1* 
nity  to  mo 
followed  1 
tions  are  t 
Many  v 
Valdez  fr< 
condition 
affliction, 
died,  and  ; 
requostw  f 
patients,  f 
come  out 
and  fear  \ 
crossed  h 
encounte: 
I  have 
difficulty 
over  the 
cssary  tci 
able  to  < 
scurvy  v 
and  su<'« 
75  cascH 
of  whoi 
mostly  1 
reach  \ 
reachin] 
somethi 
to  the  i: 
though 


^-m-mm.Mmm 


REPORT  OF  CHARLES  BROWH,  aUARTERHASTER'S  AOEVT. 


Valdk/,  Alahka,  Felynmry      ,  ]8!t0. 

Stk:  I  have  tho  lionor  to  report  the  followliiff  fju!ts  and  conditio  's 
that  have  prevaih'd  at  thiH  camp  and  the  territory  adjacent  theret(»: 

On  January  18,  lS!>J>,  1  startiid  proviHionw,  etc.,  underway  to  SUition 
24,  with  the  <'xpectation  of  huiding  them  there  in  a  few  days.  Since 
Lliat  time,  however,  the  condition  of  the  weather  hjw  been  such  as  to 
prevent  any  further  movement  of  these  gotnls.  The  first  cache 
remains  10  miles  from  Valdez,  and  am  now  awaiting  every  opportu- 
nity to  move  it  up  nearer  the  station.  Soft  snows,  with  the  river  open, 
followed  by  severer  storms,  prevented  further  progress,  though  indica- 
tions are  that  we  can  now  again  .safely  resume  work. 

Many  parties  have  of  lat^  been  crossing  the  glacier,  c^oming  into 
Valdez  from  the  interior  for  a  change  of  food,  etc.  They  report  the 
condition  of  affairs  there  as  lieing  terrible;  scurvy  being  the  chief 
affliction,  with  many  cjises  of  frozen  hands  and  feet.  A  number  have 
died,  and  several  with  frozen  limbs  will  lose  them.  I  have  had  many 
roquest«  for  aid,  medicine,  and  fresh  food  from  physicians  who  have 
patients,  and  urge  immediate  action.  In  additi(<n  to  those  who  have 
come  out,  it  is  reported  the  majority  of  sick  are  still  in  the  ulterior 
and  fear  to  make  the  attempt  to  cross  the  glacier.  Those  who  have 
crossed  have  traveled  in  large  parties  for  the  sake  of  safety,  and  have 
encountered  terrifBc  storms. 

I  have  extended  such  assistance  as  has  l)een  possible,  and  after  much 
difficulty  succeeded  in  getting  souie  green  potatoes  and  sauerkraut 
over  the  gliuiier.  Those  who  volunteered  to  take  this  in  found  it  nec- 
essary to  make  three  attempts  to  cross  the  glacier  before  they  were 
able  to  do  so,  owing  U)  the  tniil  and  storms.  Two  men  died  with 
scurvy  while  being  brought  over.  They  started  from  Saw  Mill  Camp 
and  siu!cumbed  when  near  Twelve-Mile  Camp.  It  is  reported  that 
75  cases  still  exist  between  the  glacier  and  Copper  Center,  many 
of  whom  will  never  recover.  Those  now  coming  into  camp  are 
mostly  people  who  have  been  lightly  touciied  with  scurvy  and  able  to 
reach  Valdez  without  assisUmce.  ""  aeir  condition  improves  after 
reaching  here,  and  many  of  them  are  waiting  with  the  hope  of  earning 
something  this  spring  by  packing.  Some  of  the  number  will  return 
to  the  interior  later,  while  others  are  anxious  to  return  to  their  homes, 

though  without  the  means  to  do  so. 

37 


38 


COPPER  BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


On  February  23  a  party  of  25  started  over  the  glacier,  after 
being  in  Valdez  long  enough  to  fully  recover  their  health.  On 
the  same  day  the  "  Poppy "  party  arrived  here,  most  of  them  being 
frozesi  slightly  about  the  hands  and  wrists.  After  being  six  days  on 
the  glacier  they  encountered  a  heavy  storm  and  were  compelled  to  dig 
a  hole  in  the  snow  for  shelter.  On  the  summer  trail  Pete  Benson  lost 
his  life  in  falling  into  a  creek,  l^eing  frozen  to  death  before  he  could 
be  removed  to  a  place  of  shelter. 

On  February  26  W.  E.  Hendricks  and  George  Hansen  arrived  here 
from  Copper  Center,  bringing  the  report  of  the  death  of  Robert  Izatt, 
of  Milwaukee, Wis:  and  also  the  further  information  that  27  men  with 
fecurv}"^  of  varying  degrees  of  severity  were  bound  here  from  the 
Chestochena  and  Saling  rivers,  and  that  Indians  were  bringing  in  two 
men  from  the  Gakona  River. 

The  Lower  Copper  River  has  not  been  exempt  from  scurvy.  C.  R. 
Waite  repoi'ts  a  party  en  route  to  Alaganik  with  six  patients  afflicted 
with  that  disease;  four  of  the  number  died  on  the  way.  Another  party 
following  their  trail  from  the  Bremner  River  had  live  cases  of  scurvy 
with  them.  February  24  inttsUigence  was  received  that  Dr.  Logan  was 
camped  at  the  foot  of  the  glac-ier  with  two  bad  cases  of  scurvy,  the 
afflicted  persons  being  Adolph  Ehrhardt  and  Max  Miller. 

March  3  a  relief  party,  consisting  of  Dempsey  and  Jackson,  arrived 
here  from  the  glacier  with  the  bodies  of  Ehrhardt,  Miller,  Adolph 
Schultz,  Eblerkamp,  and  AUeman.  Eblerkamp's  head  was  crushed 
when  found,  and  the  Ijody  of  Alleman  was  found  lying  across  the  body 
of  Eriierkanip.  The  bodies  of  Alleman  and  Eblerkamp  were  found  in 
a  deep  crevasse.  Although  search  was  made  for  the  body  of  Dr.  Logsin 
it  was  not  found,  Adolph  Schultz  was  a  resident  of  New  York,  and 
Eblerkamp  formerly  lived  in  Louisville,  Ky. 

I  respectfully  request  that  I  may  be  authorized  to  rent  a  house  or 
cabin  for  the  use  of  destitute  prospectors  arriving  here  sick  and  to 
whom  I  could  not  otherwise  give  shelter  suitable  to  their  condition. 
1  would  further  ask  that  the  rcnUil  date  from  November  5,  18'.>8,  and 
at  a  rate  not  to  exceed  $10  y^er  month. 

I  wish  to  call  your  attention  to  the  great  amount  of  sickness,  particu- 
larly scurvy,  prevailing  in  all  the  camps  from  Twelve-Mile  to  Copper 
Center  and  throughout  the  interior.  Many  appeals  have  been  made  to 
me  from  there  for  assistance,  medicines,  etc.  The  following  letter, 
one  of  ii  number  received  of  similar  purport,  may  give  you  some  idea  of 
the  condition  of  affairs  there: 


CoppKu  Okntrh,  Alaska,  Febnuiry  3,  1899. 

Dear  Sir:  I  beg  to  report  to  you  herewith  the  BeriouH  condition  wiiich  prevails  in 

this  o-anip.    Scurvy  liua  tlevelojjed  to  an  alarming  extent.    Two  deathH  have  occurred 

and  the  hospital,  whicli  it  was  necessary  to  establish,  is  now  full,  and  still  througlumt 

the  camp  are  many  who  should  t)e  admitte<1.     Up  the  Copper  River  the  condition,  I 


COPPER   RIVE."*    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


89 


understand,  is  equally  serious.  Many  are  wholly  without  means  and  dejiendent 
upon  others  for  nursing,  ire<lical  attention,  etc.  We  are  in  need,  too,  of  some 
medicines,  and  of  any  fresh  fruit  or  vegetables  which  may  Iks  had  at  Valdez.  Two 
have  volunteered  their  servicjes  to  bring  in  these  supplies  and  are  now  on  their  way 
to  Valdez.  Several  men  are  suffering  with  frozen  feet,  and  amputations  in  a  number 
of  (lases  will,  no  doubt,  be  necessary.  If  it  be  within  your  power  to  give  any  assist- 
ance, i  would  respectfully  a«k  your  immediate  consideration. 

Thanking  you  in  advance  for  the  attention  I  know  this  will  receive,  I  am,  youre 
truly, 

Lerov  S.  Townsknd,  M.  D. 

The  Qitartermaster'h  Aoent,  Valdez. 

1  have  been  unable  to  comply  with  these  requests  fcr  medicines, 
having  none  on  hand,  even  for  use  in  this  camp.  If  you  could  ship  at 
once  the  inedicines  requested  by  Dr.  T^^wasend  in  the  Incl^'sed  lists, 
they  would  be  of  great  value  and  go  far  toward  relieving  distress. 

On  March  6  the  storm  was  still  raging.  Dr  Logan's  body  had 
not  been  found  up  to  this  time,  though  search  has  been  made  for  it  by 
different  parties  ever  since.  The  steamer  Excelsior  came  in  and  will 
pi  ^bably  go  out  to-day,  providing  they  can  make  a  landing  for 
passengers. 

Referring  to  the  cache  10  miles  up  Lowe  River,  as  before  remariced, 
I  hoped  to  move  it  further  up  as  soon  as  that  terrible  storm  of  fourteen 
da3\s  subsided.  Two  days  after  the  storm  it  turned  warm,  so  that  I 
could  move  neither  one  way  or  the  other  for  five  days.  I  at  once 
decided  to  move  the  cache  back  to  Valdez,  and  on  April  14r,  took  1,800 
pounds  of  provisions  up  to  the  north  of  the  canyon.  After  that  date 
the  snow  melted,  so  that  no  more  sledding  could  be  done  from  the  lake 
to  the  canyon. 

In  my  report  of  February  I  made  mention  of  27  destitutii  and 
sciu'vied  people,  and  from  March  5  to  April  9,  inclusive,  277  addi- 
tional csuses  were  reported. 

Many  of  the  parties  who  came  in  from  the  intei'ior  to  Valdez  were 
so  weakened  by  scurvy  they  were  obliged  to  come  out  to  get  fresh 
vegetables,  etc.,  they  have  in  caches  in  the  interior. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  April  Mr.  Knott  and  an  Indian  who 
had  stjirtt^.d  from  Copper  Center  for  Valdez  informed  me  about  Dr. 
Townscnd  and  an  Indian  whom  he  had  left  at  the  relief  station,  com- 
pletelj'  wo  n  out  and  without  food  for  two  days.  The  Indian  who 
came  out  with  Mr.  Knott  ))elong('d  to  Dr.  Townsend's  party.  I  at 
once  informed  you  of  their  condition  and  was  authorized  to  send  relief 
to  them.  At  11  o'clock  on  the  same  evening,  as  soon  as  the  crust  on 
the  snow  had  hardened  sufficiently  to  allow  travel,  I  sent  John  Fohlin 
and  un  extra  man  named  .lohnson  with  a  dog  team  and  provisions  for 
their  relief.  Thoy  reached  the  relief  station  about  3  o'clock  the  next 
morning,  and,  after  having  breakfast,  started  back  and  arrived  ii? 
Valdez  about  10  a.  m.,  on  the  26th,  with  Dr.  Tuvviisend  and  the  Indian. 


Wnnmnnnnin 


40 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


'I 


i 


n ! 


Upon  Dr.  Townsend  reporting  to  you  that  live  sick  men  were  left 
at  liarrett's  Camp,  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
range,  you  authorized  me  to  send  at  once  two  dog  teams  of  four  dogs 
each  to  assist  in  bringing  the  sick  men  over,  and  on  1  o'clock  Thursday 
morning,  Apnl  27,  I  sent  Ed.  Woods  and  John  Fohlin  as  drivers, 
together  with  seven  extra  men,  John  De  Lander,  A.  Crawford,  Joe 
Weckert,  jr.,  Ed.  Anderson,  Rob  Broughton,  Rob  Coles,  and  T.  M. 
Johnson,  who  arrived  at  their  destination  about  T  o'clock  p.  m.  the 
same  day.  On  the  next  day,  April  28,  they  were  unable  to  start  back 
on  acount  of  a  storm.  The  glacier  at  this  time  of  the  year  is  some- 
thing awful  to  witness,  being  composed  of  glaring  ice,  horribly 
broken  up,  leaving  great  yawnirg  chasms  and  crevasses,  forming 
huge  ' *■  benches "  almost  perpenr«icu  i  ;•  rA  extending  to  a  great  height. 
It  requires  the  services  of  four  • ;- ■  ui  to  assist  a  sick  person  on  a 
sled  down  the  steep  "benches"  and  over  strips  of  ice  so  narrow  that  a 
single  misstep  would  ^aunch  one  into  crevasses  hundreds  of  feet  in 
depth. 

On  April  29,  the  storm  having  abated  its  fury,  the  relief  party 
started  back  bringing  the  sick  men,  Schloegel,  Hunt,  Liljegren, 
Launert,  and  McCracken.  They  arrived  at  the  Dempsey  Relief 
Station  about  noon  and  reached  Valdez  at  7  p.  m.  of  the  same  day. 

On  the  mornin.g  of  April  29,  James  Nucum  came  to  me  and  reported 
that  his  partner,  John  Gardner,  was  at  the  relief  station  sick  with 
scurvy  and  without  food,  and  that  he  was  unable  to  bring  him  in 
without  assistance.  Shortly  after  half  past  JO  on  the  same  day, 
authorized  by  you,  I  sent  seven  iaen,  Gus.  J'  hnson,  E.  L.  Lomnes, 
John  Bornd,  Bob  Fei'guson,  Charles  Morg-i.,  ¥.  H.  R^mdiill,  and 
C.  Anderson,  to  the  relief  station.  They  ar.  iv  y  «'  <ri',  about  noon  and 
started  back  with  the  sick  man,  arriving  ii   \  .  bout  6  o'clock  in 

the  evening  of  the  same  day.  Two  of  the  men,  a'  ndiui  and  Lomnes, 
assisted  the  expedition  sent  to  Barnett's  Camp  on  tiie  way  to  Valdez 
from  Dempsey  Relief  Station. 

Under  your  general  authorization  of  October  26,  1 898,  to  care  for 
all  destitute  persons  applying  for  relief,  I  secured  a  liouse  of  Tress 
Glaudman  at  a  monthl}'  rental  of  $10,  beginning  November  5, 1898. 

You  authorized  me  sir.ce  your  arrival  to  secure  a  suitable  house  to 
he  used  as  ,i  hospital  and  c  ,<»i!'^,r  one  fo'*  a  cook  house.  In  compli- 
ance with  such  instructions,  1  aave  renH-!  .i  liouse  for  hospital  pur- 
poses from  F.  (i.  Bartlett,  the  rental  begi'  >  *■  Ton  April  22,  1899, 
at  $5  per  month;  and  another  bouse  to  be  ust'd  as  a  cook  house  froju 
Farmer  Brown,  the  rental  begir.ning  April  22,  1899,  at  $6  per  month. 

I  was  informed  tt)-r.ay  Mftv  9,  that  H.  Lennert,  one  of  Dr.  Town- 
send's  pnrty,  wlu;iii  we  hr.n'^r!  over  the  glacier  from  Barrett's  Camp  to 
Valdes,  reported  himself  destitute,  but  was  said  to  have  checks  of 
several  hundred  dollars.     I  immediately  reported  his  circumstances  to 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


41 


you,  who,  together  witJi  myself,  investigated  the  case  and  found  that 
he  had  checks  on  deposit  to  the  amount  of  $2,000  (twenty  checks  of 
iJlOO  each)  with  the  North  American  Bank,  of  New  York  City.  He 
also  had  a  certificate  of  identification,  showing  his  signature  and  checks 
to  oe  genuine.  One  of  these  checks  was  cashed  by  his  permission, '  ■  .s 
2i  per  cent  discount  for  cashing  it,  leaving  him  a  balance  of  $i)7.oO. 
Out  of  this  amount  was  deducted  $50  for  hauling  him  over  the  glacier 
and  taking  care  of  him,  the  money  to  be  divided  as  follows:  Twenty- 
five  for  Ed.  A.  Erickson  for  taking  care  of  him,  $12.50  of  which 
Erickson  donated  to  one  Ed.  Woods,  a  very  sick  and  destitute  man,  who 
has  verj'  little  hopes  of  living,  but  who  wishes  to  return,  if  possible,  to 
Seattle,  the  remaining  $25  to  be  distributed  as  follows:  To  F.  E. 
Schloegel,  one  pair  of  socks,  $0.30;  R.  P.  Ferguson,  one  pair  .«hoes,  one 
pair  drawers,  $3.76;  F.  A.  Campbell,  one  pair  shoes,  $4;  C  G.  Nelson, 
one  suit  underwear,  $2;  H.  Hertzberg,  one  undershirt,  $1.57^;  C. 
Anderson,  one  undershirt,  one  pair  shoes,  $4.07^;  O.  Liljegren,  one 
suit  underwear,  one  pair  socks,  $2.56;  B.  Arden,  one  suit  underwear, 
$2.65;  James  Ikes,  one  pair  shoes,  $3;  Gus  Johnson,  one  pair  pants. 
$1.50;  showing  a  total  distribution  of  $50  distributed  to  the  most 
needy  and  destitutf  as  per  your  orders. 

I  am  holding  t^e  merchant's  receipt  for  the  goods  bought  and  the 
receipts  from  those  who  received  the  goods. 

I  also  have  the  honor  to  report  that  the  total  rations  issued  to  the 
sick  and  destitute  from  Augr.st  6, 1898,  to  March  25),  1899,  is  9,(575. 

I  also  furnished  to  the  relief  station  on  the  glacier  from  October  10, 
1898,  to  March  29, 1899.  295  pounds  of  bacon,  i75  pounds  of  hard-tack, 
and  20  pounds  of  coffee. 

Lumber  for  the  relief  station  and  coal  oil  for  stoves  were  furnished 
by  the  Steam  Whaling  Company. 

The  citizens  of  Valdez  contributed  all  other  necessary  provisions 
and  articles,  including  most  of  the  coffee,  extract  of  beef,  stoves, 
candlcj^,  tea,  salt,  pepper,  etc. 

1  a'io  have  the  honor  to  report  the  following  facts  concerning  the 
^sli  *n  Valdez  Bay  and  streams  running  thei'ein: 

The  little  candle  fish  came  in  this  year  souiewhi,t  earlier  than  usual, 
being  caught  here  as  early  as  January.  This  is  accounted  for  by  the 
fact  that  Valdez  Bay  was  not  frozen  over  at  any  time  in  the  season  and 
the  fresh-water  streams  and  tributjiries  were  open  also  nearly  all  win- 
ter, running  under  the  snow.  These  fish  came  in  in  immense  quanti- 
ties and  inhabited  every  little  frc^sh-water  stream  in  which  they  could 
spawn.  We  caught  thousands  bore  daily  with  littlo  dip  Lets  and  also 
by  hand.     The  run  continues  until  nearly  April. 

The  herring  arrived  this  year  in  February,  ))ut  were  not  so  plentiful 
as  last  year.     We  caught  a  sufficient  quantity,  however,  for  our  use. 


42 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


h 


They  arrived  in  immense  schools,  but  not  nearer  than  the  Islands  and 
Swanport.    These  fish,  unlike  the  candle  fish,  spawn  in  salt  water. 

Codfish  and  halibut  follow  in  the  wake  of  the  herring,  devouring 
great  numbers  of  them.  We  caught  plenty  of  cod,  but  very  few  hali- 
but, the  laitcr  being  a  deep-water  fish  and  found  only  on  slopy  bot- 
toms. Most  of  the  codfish  were  wiught  with  the  incoming  tide  and  on 
a  very  short  line.  We  also  speared  quite  a  number,  finding  them  in 
places  in  water  that  did  not  exceed  1  fathom  in  depth.  The  halibut 
are  caught  near  the  sawmill,  a  distance  of  9  miles  from  Valdez.  This 
fish,  like  the  cod,  does  not  inhabit  fresh-water  streams. 

Early  in  July  dog  salmon  and  humpbacks  literally  filled  the  streams. 
We  speared  them  and  shoveled  them  out  of  the  streams.  We  could 
have  thrown  them  out  by  hand,  but  they  have  large  sharp  teeth  and 
are  quite  vicious.  They  were  so  abundant  that  we  selected  our  victims 
and  speared  o.ily  the  choice  ones..  In  spite  of  the  acquired  prejudice 
against  this  fish  as  food,  they  make  a  dainty  dish. 

The  silver  salmon,  the  fish  canned  by  all  the  canneries  along  the 
coast,  are  very  plentiful  here  and  are  caught  with  seines  in  great 
numbers. 

The  salmon  trout  come  in  October  and  are  sought  after  with  great 
jearnestness  and  activity.  They  make  a  most  delicious  meal.  A  pole, 
with  two  or  three  hooks  fastened  securely  on  the  end,  is  all  that  is 
required  to  d«iw  them  out  as  fast  as  is  desired.  They  are  the  prettiest 
wpeckled  beauty  we  have  ever  seen.  The  sun  shining  upon  them  brings 
out  their  brilliant  colors  and  shows  them  in  nil  their  beauty.  They 
sport  in  their  beautiful  colors  till  winter  closes  the  streams. 

The  first  part  of  May  was  occupied  in  cutting  and  rafting  wood 
across  the  bay  to  be  used  as  fuel  for  the  hospital,  cook  house,  and  camp 
in  general.  Gravel  was  also  hauled  and  a  walk  l)uilt  between  the  office 
and  the  storehouse.  During  the  month  repairs  were  made  to  the 
smokehouse,  consisting  of  the  removal  of  the  canvas  roof,  which  was 
replaced  by  a  shingle  roof.  The  following  material  wius  used:  Two 
windows,  lumber  for  the  floor,  276  feet;  eighteen  rafters,  2  by  1(5  feet, 
288  feet;  sheeting  and  finishing  lumber,  350  feet;  5,000  shingles;  sills 
and  floor  joists,  2(X)  feet. 

On  May  13  we  unloaded  the  Government  goods  from  the  steamer 

We  took  the  roof  otf  the  fttable  and  raised  it  2  feet  higher,  replac- 
ing it  with  a  shingle  roof.  The  amount  of  material  used  was  23,000 
shingles,  (»0  rafters,  2  by  10,  1(5  and  18  feet  long;  3,000  feet  of  sheet- 
ing; gable  ends,  400  feet;  lumber  for  floor,  2  by  10,  4,000  feet;  mud 
sills,  6  by  6,  1,280  feet.     The  floor  upstairs  remains  unfinished. 

We  built  station  No.  2,  15  by  30  feet;  hauled  logs  and  lumber  for  the 
station.  The  amount  of  material  used  wius  65  logs;  450  feet  of  lumber 
for  flooring;  450  feet  of  lumber  for  gable  ends  and  finishing;  9,0(X) 


i 


liiiu 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


43 


shiiiglpss;  36  rafters,  2  by  6,  14  feet  long;  800  feet  sheeting.  Howed 
logs  for  floor  joists.  The  station  wa«  built  2  feet  above  the  ground. 
A  wagon  road  was  cut  from  station  No.  2  to  the  foothills  where  the 
road  takes  the  bar  to  Keystone  Canyon,  A  trail  was  cut  for  surveying 
purposes.  The  Government  steam  launch  was  furnished  with  water 
and  fuel  whenever  necessary. 

On  June  13  we  removed  the  hospital  to  Swanport;  took  the  lighter 
to  the  sawmill  for  a  load  of  lumber  and  slabs  for  Valdez;  cut  trail  from 
the  end  of  wagon  road  for  pack  team,  to  avoid  a  deep  stream. 

June  22  we  went  to  Swanport  to  cut  firewood  and  piles  and  sawlogs 
and  continued  this  work  to  present  date.  Fifty  logs  were  rafted  to  the 
sawmill.  Two  hundred  and  one  piles,  from  30  to  50  feet  long,  were 
cut,  jxieled,  and  made  ready  for  use.  We  also  have  on  hand  fifty  logs 
for  firewood. 

The  mowing  machine  and  mke  were  taken  from  Valdez  to  the  island 
to  be  used  in  plotting  up  hay. 

With  reference -to  affairs  at  the  hospital,  Oscar  Liljigren  is  going 
out  on  the  first  boat.  John  Gardner  and  H.  E.  Hunt  are  the  only 
ones  i-emaining.  Hunt,  with  his  frozen  foot,  is  still  black  Avith  scurvy 
froin  the  ankle  down.  It  will  be  necessary  to  amputate  his  big  toe, 
but,  on  account  of  the  scurvy,  the  operation  must  be  delayed. 

Schloegel  and  Gardner  still  have  scurvy  from  the  ankle  down,  but 
are  on  the  way  t>  recovery.  They  refuse  to  be  put  on  the  \m.y  roll  on 
account  of  not  being  able  to  do  anything  in  the  east  and  have  plenty 
of  supplies  in  the  interior.  Schloegel's  supplies  are  on  the  Christochina 
River,  about  200  miles  distant  from  Port  Valdez.  Gardner's  supplies 
are  at  Copper  Certer. 

Respectfully  submitted.  Charles  Buown, 

Quartermaster'' »  Agent. 

Capt.  W.  R.  Abercrombie, 

Seamd  United  Staten  Infantry., 

(Jarndg.  Alaska  Exploration  and  Belief  Expeditian  No.  ^. 


i 


i! 


REPORT  OF  LEROT  J.  TOWNSEND,  M.  D.,ON  SCORBTJTTTS,  OR  8CTJRVT. 


Scorbutus,  or  scurvy,  the  most  dreaded  disease  of  the  Alaskun  pros- 
pector or  minor,  is  a  constitutional  disorder,  chamcterized  by  a  vitiated 
state  of  the  blood  dependent  upon  tl  e  lack  of  necessary  elements 
supplied  through  fresh  fruit  and  vegetable  nutriment.  This  lack  or 
insuflBciency  in  fresh  vegetable  material  is  the  essential  factor  in  its 
development.  Another  factor  is  the  long-continued  use  of  salt  and 
smoked  meats ;  the  use  of  stale  or  unwholesome  food  still  another. 
Indolence  and  inactivity  are  predisposing  and  mental  lethargy  or 
depression  is  undoubtedly  active  in  its  production. 

The  changes  in  the  composition  of  the  blood  show  a  marked  dimi- 
nution in  the  potash  salts,  and,  contrary  to  a  quite  general  belief,  the 
blood  is  not  thick,  but  thin  and  watery.  Indeed,  to  this  watery  condi- 
tion may  be- attributed  the  discolorationa  which  manifest  themselves 
during  the  disease,  the  liquid  condition  of  the  blood  admitting  of  its 
passage  through  the  vessel  walls  into  and  beneath  the  skin.  The 
development  of  the  disease  is  usually  slow  and  insidious.  The  unfor- 
tunate suffers  f I'om  malaise  and  is  indisposed  to  either  mental  or  physi- 
cal activity.  Shortness  of  breath  follows  the  slightest  exertion,  and 
palpitation  of  the  heart  is  of  frequent  occurrence.  Vertigo  may  be 
associated.  Pain  occurs  in  the  knees  or  in  the  muscles  of  the  calf  or 
thigh,  the  muscles  so  contracting  as  to  produce  lameness.  CEdema  of 
the  extremities,  particularly  marked  about  the  ankles  and  along  the 
course  of  the  tibia  or  shin  bone,  is  an  almost  constant  symptom.  Puffi  • 
nesH  of  the  face  may  be  apparent.  The  pitting  of  the  parts  on  pressure 
is  marke '.  The  skin  is  dry  and  harsh  and  presents  extravasations  of 
blood,  in  size  from  petechial  spots  to  almost  the  whole  surface  of  the 
part.  These  discoid  tions  vary  in  color  from  a  light  red  to  a  dark  blue 
or  black.  Desquamation  may  follow  over  the  ecchymotic  surfaces. 
There  are  swelling  and  discoloration  of  the  gums,  which  tend  to  bleed 
readily.  The  swelling  may  greatly  interfere  with  the  ingestion  of 
food.  The  teeth  loosen  or  drop  out.  The  breath  is  terribly  offensive. 
General  weakness  and  depression  are  progressive,  with  decided  emacia- 
tion. Anaemia  is  marked ;  the  face  pale,  yellowish,  or  leaden  in  color. 
The  eyes  are  shrunken  and  surrounded  by  dark  circles,  and  in  cases  of 
long  duration  a  characteristic  odor  has  seemed  to  me  to  exist.  The 
44 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


46 


RVY. 


urino.  is  high  colored,  abnormal  in  quantity  in  ninny  cases,  and  loaded, 
l)econiing  highly  offensive  if  left  standing.  Hemorrhage  may  take 
place  from  various  mucous  surfaces.  Fever  of  a  remittent  character 
is  a  constant  symptom,  the  morning  temperature  usually  registering 
l)9i°  to  KWi*^^".  ,  In  the  afternoon  it  reaches  a  degree  or  two  higher.  A 
good  appetite  usually  exists,  at  least  until  the  disease  is  far  developed. 

In  such  cases  as  progress  unfavorably  the  weakness  increases,  the 
patitnit  becoming  unable  to  assist  himself  in  the  slightest  degree.  He 
soon  lapses  into  a  semicomatose  or  comatose  condition,  from  which 
death  relieves  him. 

Such  complications  as  I  have  seen  have  involved  the  lungs  and  kid- 
neys.   I  have  had  no  case  in  which  scorbutic  dysentery  has  followed. 

In  diagnosis  it  would  seem  impossible  to  confound  the  disease  with 
any  other  affection,  especially  when  the  condition  is  well  developed. 
Yet  the  most  astonishing  errors  were  made  in  the  Copper  River  region 
during  the  past  year.  Nor  were  these  errors  made  by  the  laymen 
alone,  but  by  presumably  reputable  physicians.  For  instance,  one 
case  that  came  to  my  notice  had  been  diagnosed  and  treati  v^  as  gan- 
grene of  the  feet  and  legs,  thought  to  have  been  produced  l)y  too 
tightly  constricting  the  parts  with  cords  used  in  tying  ganny  sacks 
over  the  feet  and  limbs.  The  marked  extravasations  were  responsible 
for  this  mistake.  The  patient  died.  "  Again,  another  individual  who 
had  been  unfortunate  enough  to  have  his  toes  frozen  had  the  same 
cause  placed  on  these  offending  members  in  explanation  of  scorbutic 
symptoms,  which  subsequently  developed.  Another  individual,  in 
which  the  disease  was  just  beginning  to  manifest  itself,  was  told  that 
the  pain  and  stiffness  in  his  leg  were  due  to  a  spraii.,  and  the  slightest 
swelling  and  discoloration  of  the  gums  were  the  result  of  "  frosting" 
them. 

In  general,  through  the  opinion  expressed  by  several  physicians, 
the  impression  was  that  the  condition  was  rheumatic.  Blackleg 
rheumatism  it  was  called.  This  was  a  most  unfortunate  mistake. 
The  line  of  treatment  institilted  in  these  cases  was  directly  antagonis- 
tic to  the  accepted  lines  followed  in  scurvy,  and  such  as  subsequently 
came  under  my  care  responded  very  tardily  to  antiscorbutic  meas- 
ures. Under  this  impression,  too,  many  had  taken  the  trail  who,  had 
they  known  that  the  developing  pains  were  the  forerunner  of  scurvy, 
would  not  have  done  so.  Many  of  these  unfortunates  had  to  be 
hauled  back,  and  much  suffering  and  inconvenience  were  the  result. 
The  only  disease  which  might  be  mistaken  is  a  rare  one,  known  as 
peliosis  rheumatica,  o^'  Schonlein's  disease. 

The  above  should  be  sufficient  to  place  anyone  on  his  guard,  and, 
with  reasonable  discernment,  he  should  be  able  to  recognize  the  devel- 
opment of  this  dreiad  malady. 


46 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


In  the  consideration  of  treatment  preventive  ineaHureH  Hhould  first 
receive  attention.  Citric  acid  lemonade  should  be  used  frequently — 
from  one  to  three  times  daily.  It  may  be  either  sweetened  or 
unsweetened,  and  in  strength  corresponding  with  lemonade  made  from 
the  fresh  fruit.  Lime  juice  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  Cider 
vinegar  is  of  service.  Dried  or  evaporated  fruit  and  vegetable  prod- 
ucts will  not  serve  as  satisfactory  substitutes.  Canned  fruits  are  of 
greater  value.  I  would  urge,  too,  that  the  Alaskap  prospector  and 
miner  take  a  plentiful  supply  of  milk,  butter,  sugar,  and  eggs  (Lamont's 
crystallized).  These  articles  should  not  be  looked  upon  as  luxuries; 
they  are  necessities. 

On  the  interior  a  popular  preventive  and  remedy  was  an  infusion  of 
pine  needles.  This  was  prepared  by  selecting  limbs  of  young  growth 
of  the  pine,  stripping  off  the  needles,  putting  in  boiling  water  and  set- 
ting aside  to  steep.  Some  boiled  the  needles  for  a  considerable  time, 
making  a  stronger  decoction.  Of  this  tea  a  fourth  to  a  cupful  was 
taken  two  or  three  times  daily,  as  required.  The  inner  bark  of  the 
willow  and  juniper  berries  were  used  in  the  same  way.  All  of  the 
above  have  proven  of  value.  1  did  not  prescribe  them  in  my  practice, 
but  I  am  satisfied  of  their  usefulness  and  they  are  worthy  of  i-emem- 
brance. 

In  direct  treatment  the  indication  is  to  supply  as  far  as  possible  the 
principles  niieded  for  the  healthy  constitution  of  the  vital  fluid,  the 
blood,  and  to  directly  change  the  environment  which  tends  to  the  devel- 
opment of  the  disease.  Place  the  patient  in  the  best  possible  condition 
for  the  invigoration  of  the  system.  If  possible,  let  him  take  gentle 
exercise.  Supply  fresh  fruit  and  vegetables,  lemons,  oranges,  apples, 
potatoes,  onions,  cabbage,  etc.,  together  with  fresh  meat,  if  available. 
Lemons  probably  give  the  quickest  results,  and  it  is  astonishing  the 
improvement  that  will  follow  their  use.  Raw  potatoes  are  excellent. 
Divert  the  mind  of  the  patient  and  inspire  hope  and  cheerfulness. 

Tonics  are  indicated.  The  tincture  of  the  chloride  of  iron,  the 
citrate  of  iron,  the  citrate  of  iron  and  quinine,  or  the  citrate  of  iron, 
quinine,  and  strychnine  have  proven  of  the  greatest  value  in  my  hands. 
The  mineral  acids  may  be  used  to  advantage.  For  the  oral  symptoms  a 
wash  of  potassium  chlorate  will  answer  admirably,  or  one  of  boracic 
acid  or  equal  parts  of  boracic  acid  and  borax,  with  a  few  drops  of  car- 
bolic acid  added.  Attend  to  the  secretions,  keep  the  bowels  open  with 
mild  laxative  medicines.  Relieve  pain  with  anodynes,  resorting  if 
necessary  to  moi'phine.  The  use  of  hot- water  bags  for  relief  of  pain 
in  the  limbs  or  back  is  excellent.  The  application  of  plasters  may  be 
beneficial,  as  well  as  hot  fermentations.  Other  symptoms  must  be  met 
as  they  arise. 

I  believe  that  operative  procedure  is  contraindicated  when  scorbu- 
tus exists.    In  two  cases  operated  upon  the  greatest  difficulty  was 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


47 


experienced  in  controlling  hemorrhage.  In  neither  case  was  there 
manifest  symptoms  at  the  time  of  operatio  .  but  symptoms  developed 
very  soon  after.  Considering  the  blood  changes,  difficulty  m  stoppmg 
hemorrhage  might  be  expected. 

To  my  knowledge  no  cases  of  acute  rheumatism,  of  typhoid,  cerebi  o- 
spinal,  or  other  fever  developed  in  the  Copper  River  region. 

Considering  the  hardship  and  exposure  undergone,  it  is  surprising 
that  so  little  sickness  resulted. 

LeROY  J.  TOWNSENU,  M.  u. 

Valdez,  Alaska,  May^  1899. 


BEPOBT  OF  THE  WILSON  MINING  COMPANY,  BT  H.  L.  WILSON,  JB. 


The  Wilson  Mining  Conipfiiiy,  consisting  of  live  men  and  an  outfit 
of  alK)ut  8,000  pounds,  started  from  San  Francisco  March  1, 1898,  and 
after  a  pleasant  but  uneventful  trip,  arrived  at  Seattle  March  4,  at  4 
o\'lock  p.  m.  Being  unable  to  secure  a  pilot  for  the  inside  passage 
north,  our  steamer,  the  Valencia^  took  the  outside  route.  It  began  to 
blow  before  we  were  outside  of  Puget  Sound,  and  the  storm  continued 
for  eight  days,  growing  worse  all  the  time.  The  captain  of  the  vessel 
said  the  sea  was  running  al)out  60  miles  and  the  wind  blowing  al)out 
80  miles  an  hour.  On  March  13  (Sunday)  the  barometer  indicated  that 
the  storm  would  grow  worse;  therefore,  out  of  considemtion  for  the 
passengers,  606  in  number,  it  was  deemed  best  to  kill  and  throw  over- 
board seventeen  head  of  horses  and  cattle;  also  several  tons  of  hay  and 
grain  that  was  loaded  on  the  bow  of  the  lioat.  Thi;.^  was  done  and  the 
Valenc'ui  baffled  the  sea  and  wind  much  better.  Our  voyage  is  known 
as  the  awful  trip  of  the  Alaskan  miners  of  1898, 

Tuesday  morning,  March  15,  the  weather  was  clear.  We  dropped 
anchor  off  Port  Orca,  Prince  William  Sound,  Alaska,  at  al>out  11a.  m. 
At  7.30  p.  m.  over  forty  men  were  landed,  most  of  them  being  bound 
for  Portage  Bay,  as  was  our  party,  to  cross  the  glacier  into  the  Cook's 
Inlet  country.  We  lay  at  Orca  twelve  days,  awaiting  transportation. 
On  March  26  we  received  word  of  a  good  find  on  the  Bremner  River,  a 
branch  of  the  Copper.  We  then  changed  our  plans  and  started  up  the 
Copper  River,  instead  of  waiting  any  longer  for  a  boat  to  Portage  Bay. 
Our  party,  in  company  with  another  party  of  four  men,  chartered  the 
steam  launch  Mary  to  take  us  to  Alguik,  about  50  miles  distant.  Wo 
started  March  27,  about  5  o'clock  a.  m.,  and  made  as  far  as  the  White 
Sheds,  where  the  sound  waters  are  backed  by  the  ocean  waters,  mak- 
ing a  low  bar.  While  waiting  for  a  high  tide  to  cross  the  bar,  a  storm 
conmienced,  which  lasted  until  Wednesday,  March  30,  when  the 
weather  again  became  clear.  We  crossed  the  bar  about  noon,  but 
were  faced  with  float  ice  coming  out  of  the  Eyak  River  and  were 
obliged  to  put  back  to  Odiak,  as  coal  was  short.  Here  we  pitched  our 
tent  on  about  10  feet  of  snow.  It  then  began  to  snow  and  blow. 
Wednesday,  April  6,  the  Mai'y  Gilbert^  a  schooner  from  San  Francisco, 
landed  about  twenty-five  of  her  passengers  at  Odiak,  all  bound  for  the 
Copper  River.  We  then  called  a  meeting  and  about  eighteen  men 
chartered  the  stern  wheel  river  boat  of  the  Alaska  Packing  Company 
48 


COPPER   BIVKR    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


49 


to  take  tho  party  and  outiitH  to  Alaganik,  or  an  near  to  that  place  aa 
they  could. 

We  started  Fi'iday,  April  8,  at  11  p.  ni.,  and  were  landed  on  18  feet 
of  snow  on  the  marshes,  al)out  8  miles  from  Goose  Hill,  which  is 
about  8  miles  from  Alaganik.  When  we  landed  the  sloughs  were 
beginning  to  open,  so  we  made  haste  to  get  off  the  treacherous 
ground.  We  worked  until  midnight,  when  a  severe  storm  came  up. 
It  was  so  cold  we  were  obliged  to  kno<;k  the  Ixjxes  from  our  goods  to 
make  a  fire.  The  next  day  we  changed  our  camp  to  the  timber  in  a 
higher  part  of  the  marsh.  The  storm  continued  until  April  13,  and 
the  next  three  days  it  thawed.  Saturday,  April  16,  at  noon,  the  whole 
party  made  a  start  for  Alaganik.  There  were  thirty-two  men  in  line. 
On  tho  trail  the  trip  was  a  hard  one,  as  in  crossing  the  sloughs  we 
broke  through  many  of  them.  We  reached  Alaganik  alx>ut  7.30  p.  m., 
and  left  that  place  Wednesday,  April  20,  for  Spruce  Camp,  a  piece  of 
timber  at  the  junction  of  the  Copper  River  and  the  flats  that  border 
the  sound.  Thursday  we  finished  caching  our  goods  on  the  banks  of 
the  Copper  River.  April  21  we  began  to  move  up  the  Copper  River. 
The  first  station  is  an  abandoned  trading  post,  known  as  "  IJear  House." 
We  made  the  journey  on  the  ice,  a  distance  of  7  miles.  From  this  place 
we  went  to  what  is  known  as  the  "Second  Cottonwood." 

On  Sunday,  April  24,  it  stormed  very  hard.  Tuesday,  April  26,  we 
I'eached  the  Cottonwood  camp  with  the  outfit.  Here  we  camped  on 
18  feet  of  snow,  Wednesday,  April  27,  it  began  to  rain.  The  snow 
became  so  soft  we  could  not  move. 

On  June  1  we  started  up  the  river  at  2  p.  m.  The  river  has  many 
channels,  with  bars  and  banks  of  quicksand  and  gravel  between  them. 
The  channels  are  continually  changing  their  course.  After  sixteen 
hours  of  hard  labor  we  returned  to  camp,  being  luiable  to  baflltt  with 
the  current  and  ice.  On  Friday,  June  3,  we  made  another  start,  this 
tiniG  going  up  the  left  channel.  Coming  to  a  high  bank,  we  were 
obliged  to  pull  the  boat  vx>  the  same  by  a  rope.  We  finally  ci'ossed 
the  channel  to  the  flat  '  t'.:e  other  side,  pulling  from  one  flat  to 
another  and  crossing  streams  when  nccessarv.  At  11  o'clock  p.  m.  we 
camped  about  one  mile  from  where  we  had  started.  Our  boats  leaked 
badly  from  being  di-agged  over  so  many  bars  and  coming  in  contact 
with  so  much  float  ice  and  therefore  it  was  thought  best  to  put  back 
to  camp. 

Saturday,  June  4,  several  parties  arrived  from  Alaganik,  landing  on 
the  beach  near  our  camp.  One  of  the  parties  was  composed  of  40 
pei-sons,  the  other  of  18. 

On   Sunday,   June  5,   our  company   divided,  3  starting  back  to 

Odiak  to  go  to  Cook  Inlet,  but  when  they  reached  there  they  found 

many  persons  coming  out,  so  decided  to  return  home,  which  they  did. 

The  same  day  two  men  came  down  the  river  claiiuing  to  have  lost 

S.  Doc.  306 4 


60 


C()P1»ER   RIVER   KXPLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


till  their  jjood.s  at  tho  nipidH,  and  by  their  Ixad  stories  of  the  irripoH- 
sibiiity  to  boat  up  the  Copper  River  Hueceeded  in  turning  three  or  four 
others  from  one  company.  The  company  had  hired  these  men  to  help 
them  through  and  when  desertt'd  by  them  requested  our  assistance, 
saying  they  would  reeiprowite  until  we  were  alH)ve  the  rapids.  We 
agreed  to  this  proposition,  and  on  Monday  lM)th  parties  (twenty- three 
persons  in  all)  with  nine  boats  started  up  the  left  (;haruiel  and,  upon 
reaching  the  high  Inmk,  cut  a  trail  through  the  alders  and,  witk  five 
men  on  the  Iwad  line  and  three  on  the  stt^rn,  succeeded  in  getting  our 
boats  through  the  swift  current,  which  we  judged  to  be  at  least  10 
miles  an  hour.  The  next  day  we  were  joined  by  a  smaller  party.  We 
were  all  day  getting  the  Iniats  through  this  place.  We  worked,  rain 
or  shine.  Now,  for  the  first  time,  we  came  to  a  gla<!ier  stream,  into 
which  we  were  obliged  to  go  and  roll  over  largo  rotiks  in  order  to 
make  a  channel  to  get  through  hidden  nx^ks  al>out  10  feet  from  the 
bank  to  the  middle  of  the  stream.  The  glacier  water  runs  swift,  clear, 
cold,  and  deep,  presenting  a  gre-  'contrast  to  the  Copper  River  water, 
which  is  very  sandy  and  mudd 

We  were  obliged  to  overcome     .^culty  after  difficulty,  cutting  trail 
most  of  the  way,  Ijefore  our  l)oats  could  proceed. 

On  June  12  we  were  just  below  the  Childs  Glacier,  on  the  right  Imnk 
of  the  river.  At  4.30  a.  m.  we  commenced  to  line  our  lM)ats  past  the 
glacier.  Here  the  river  is  comjwsed  of  one  stream  and,  in  places,  runs 
very  swift.  It  is  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  wide.  The  glacier  at 
this  time  of  the  year  is  along  the  water's  edge.  It  is  almut  a  mile  and 
a  half  long  and  150  feet  high.  It  is  supposed  to  !)€  moving  forward. 
The  opposite  side  or  bank  is  a  long  rocky  beach.  When  the  glacier 
"dumps"  it  throws  a  swell  varying  in  size  to  the  amoimt  of  ice  that 
falls.  We  sent  our  first  two  boats  up  on  the  rocky  beach,  and  another 
was  swamped  at  the  water's  edge.  Out  of  the  one  swamped  wo  lost 
about  $100  worth  of  goods.  We  continued  to  put  the  boats  through 
to  a  place  of  safety  between  the  two  glaciers.  It  took  a  .swell  about 
three  minutes  to  reach  us  after  the  ice  had  fallen,  the  second  or  third . 
swell  being  the  larger  and  stronger.  On  the  third  trip  one  of  our 
boats  was  thrown  so  high  and  dry  that  the  men  on  the  lines,  nine  in 
number,  were  in  water  over  their  heads  and  were  obliged  to  cling  to 
the  large  bowlders  to  keep  from  being  washed  into  the  stream  v/ith  the 
receding  waters.  Three  of  the  men  were  badly  hurt  about  their 
knees  and  one  week  later  two  of  them  went  back  jj^Hb  States.  My 
partner,  who  was  one  of  the  three  hurt,  was  laid^^^^or  six  weeks, 
unable  to  do  anything.  He  remained,  however^ 
Woods  Canyon. 

We  camped  on  a  part  of  a  dead  glacier  betwe< 
and  "Childs."    Here  the  river  is  much  widerand  not  so  swift.    In 
front  of  the  Miles  glacier  is  a  large  basin  likeaflA,  about2i  miles  long 


wintered  at 


e  two  "Miles" 


COPPER   KIVER   KXPL()RIN(*    EXPEDITION. 


61 


aces,  runs 


and  2  milr.s  wide,  with  larjjc  icelMTj^H  floating;  in  it.  Wo  rowod  aoross 
this  \a\n^  to  what  \h  Icnown  uh  the  loft  hand  hIou^Ii,  whoro  wo  found 
4|ui(>t  wator  and  a  ^(mkI  oanipin^  jjfi'ound,  Hholtoi'od  from  tho  wind. 
Tho  party  of  40  wont  still  further  up  to  tho  foot  of  tho  rapids  on 
tho  l(>ft  hank.  At  this  tirno  of  tho  yoar  tho  water  is  hi^h  and  runs 
very  swift.  We  tried  many  times  to  lino  up  tho  rapids,  Imt  I'ailod- 
Two  larjfo  snow  slides  on  this  Imnk  also  came  down  to  the  wat«'r's  odjfo, 
han^injjf  over  tho  waters  about  25  fo«'t,  ready  to  fall  at  any  moment. 
We  tried  in  vain  to  get  tho  boats  past  them.  As  only  aldors  grow 
inthovi(unity  of  the  mpidH,  wo  could  not  build  boats  alwve  and  pack 
the  jroods  over. 

On  Thursday,  tJune  10,  wo  wore  loonted  in  front  of  Miles  Glacier  on 
th<^  left  side  of  tho  stream.  The  wat(M-  I'oso  at  tho  mto  of  from  1  to 
5  inches  in  twelve  hours.  This  rise  or  fall  in  the  wator  of  the  slough 
means  a  rise  of  as  many  feet  in  the  rapids  alwvo. 

Juno  17  'it)  men  came  -down  the  river  from  Brenuior  with  reports 
of  no  gold  opayand  water  too  high  to  get  to  bed  rock.  Sonu?  of 
the  men  tried  to  shoot  tho  rapids,  taking  an  Indian  to  guide  them. 
Tho  lM)at  was  lost  and  they  escaped  with  their  lives  only  by  assistance 
from  shore.  Substitution  of  the  Ijoats  above  tho  rapids  was  com- 
menced for  those  below.  Bedding  and  personal  effects  wore  [)aitked 
over  tho  trail,  which  is  very  bad,  having  two  snow  slides  to  cross  and 
three  rock  cliffs  to  scale,  about  2(X)  feet  above  tho  raging  waters,  with 
a  rock  ledge  of  not  more  than  2i  inches  wid«i  for  the  feet  and  about 
the  same  for  the  hands. 

.July  4,  conditions  being  more  favorable,  wo  b»!gan  i-»  move  up  the 
rapids,  taking  with  us  a  lx)at  load  of  al)out  1,0()()  pounds,  calculating 
to  put  a  rope  across  the  i-apids  and  strettth  it  above  to  use  as  a  ferry.  In 
this  we  failed,  tho  water  being  too  swift  for  us  to  cross.  We  then  put 
5  tor^  of  goods  about  half  way  up  the  rapids,  thinking  to  make  the 
crossing  when  the  wator  became  lower.  Men  were  pulled  into  the 
water  and  tho  l)oats  broke  away  many  times. 

July  10  tho  water  began  to  rise  again  and  there  was  no  opportunity 
to  get  the  goods  over  the  rapids. 

July  21  we  commenced  to  put  goods  past  the  face  of  the  Miles 
Glacier,  following  close  to  the  rocky  flat  on  tho  opposite  side  of  the 
lake.  It  takes  about  seven  minutes  for  a  swell  to  reach  this  side  after 
a  glacier  has  dumped,  thus  giving  the  men  time  to  protect  themselves. 
Four  of  our  best  boatmen  took  the  goods  across  the  rapid  stream, 
which  flows  from  the  cataract  above.  From  here  we  packed  up  a  high, 
rockj'  side  of  a  dead  glacier,  about  a  mile  distant,  then  through  4  miles  of 
alders  and  rocks  to  the  head  of  the  rapids,  which  we  reached  with  all 
outfits  August  12.  During  our  stay  of  about  fifty  days  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  rapids  and  glaciers  it  stormed  twenty-four.  The  river  at  this  place 
resembles  a  large  lake,  but  has  quite  a  cuiTent.   We  waited  until  August 


52 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


24  for  wind  in  the  right  direction  and  quantity  to  push  us  again  *t 
the  current,  as  we  could  not  row  against  it  with  a  loaded  boat.  While 
here  we  have  seen  the  river  I'ise  7  feet  in  twenty-four  houi's  and  fall 
15  feet  in  the  same  length  of  time.  The  water  of  the  Copper  River 
flows  in  swells  at  times,  as  the  wind  blows  in  gusts,  and  at  times  little 
headway  can  be  made  even  with  a  sail.  August  25  we  passed  through 
Mead  Canyon,  which  is  dangerous  on  account  of  swift  water  and 
rocky  cliffs.  August  27  we  made  camp  about  2  miles  above  Bremner 
River,  on  an  island  in  the  Copper  River,  and  then  returned  for  the 
remainder  of  our  cache,  arriving  at  this  island  again  on  September  3. 
On  September  .5  we  moved  to  another  island  3  miles  further  up  the 
Copper.  The  next  day  it  mined  and  blew  down  the  river,  the  water 
mised,  and  the  current  was  so  swift  we  could  not  move.  ■  On  Septem- 
ber 15  the  wind  changed,  but  the  storm  continued.  We  started  out 
and  made  about  10  miles,  but  our  companions  in  another  ])oat  were 
left  on  the  flats.  Here  the  sloughs  or  streams  g(-t  so  si.iall  and  so 
many  gravel  bars — falls  (for  they  have  a  positive  dr(jp  of  froui  1  to 
2  feet)  thiit  we  resorted  again  to  lining  our  boats.  Ice-cold  and  swift 
water,  quicksand,  gravel  bars  and  high  rocky  cliiiV  to  finger  or  rope 
around,  with  an  occasional  sandstorm,  were  the  principal  obstacles  we 
had  to  encounter.  October  1  we  reached  Wood  Canyon,  another 
almost  impa-ssable  barrier  of  t>-..'.  Copper  River.  We  were  the  fii-st 
party  to  pass  up  through  the  canyon  this  year.  October  8  we  ,'i.drted 
with  a  light  load  about  8  a.  m.,  three  men  in  a  boat,  and  by  rowing, 
Angering,  and  roping,  crossing  })ack  and  forth  to  avoid  the  currents — 
swift  water  beit)g  the  main  difticulty — Vi  I'eached  the  l)ar  alK)\e  alM)ut 
«).  15  p.  m. 

On  October  7  we  start^^d  up  the  nver  above  the  i-any-Mi.  Again 
oiu'  has  the  same  kind  of  bars,  (difls.  and  s'vift  water  to  contend  wit  . 
October  10  we  reached  a  small  stream  ■tlH.iit  13  miles  above  Wood 
('anyon.  the  head  waters  of  which  we  had  start*;.]  foi-.  Octolier  11  it 
giv'v  very  cold  and  slush  ice  was  running  in  the  srveani.  When  we 
reached  the  mountain  back  we  found  the  climate  more  agrtM^bJe. 
October  20  we  were  back  to  our  canjp  at  Wood  Can,voii,  having  trav- 
ersed the  distance  in  about  four  and  a  half  hours.  Before  it  had  taken 
us  four  days  to  makt;  it  against  the  stream.  October  31  v/e  sUirted 
down  the  river  for  the  Sfaiies  to  spend  the  winter.  We  left  the  canyon 
at  7.30  ft.  m.  and  reached  the  island  5  miles  above  Bren)ner  River  about 
4  p.  m.,  a  distance  of  45  miles.  The  next  day  we  continued  our  trip 
down  the  river,  stiirting  at  11.30  a.  ni.,  and  arriving  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids  about  6  p.  m.  Here  a  great  change  had  taken  place.  Instead 
of  the  large  lake-like  body  of  watt^y,  there  were  two  streams  with  a  long 
gravel  and  rocky  flat  reaching  down  from  the  left  or  east  bank  about 
400  yards,  and  the  water  had  receded  fully  50  fe^^t. 


lai 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLOBIWO   EXPEDITION. 


53 


October  23  we  shot  and  roped  down  the  i-apids,  landing  safely  about 
3,30  p.  m.  We  found  it  ijnpossible  to  go  down  the  right  slough,  it 
being  dry.  The  main  slough  from  tlic  rapids  on  the  left,  in  which  is 
the  cataract,  was  blocked  with  icebergs  at  the  lower  end;  in  fact  the 
whole  lake  or  basin  before  the  Miles  Glacier  was  a  mountjiin  of  ice, 
making  it  impossible  to  get  over  that  way.  Therefore  we  unloaded 
our  goods  and  rolled  the  boat  over  the  rocky  bar  or  flat  for  a  distance 
of  about  3  miles  on  rollers  made  from  driit  logs,  and  then  packed  our 
goods  to  boat.  A  windstorm  commenced  the  morning  of  the  23rd.  It 
was  blowing  down  the  river  and  getting  colder,  but  we  were  anxious 
to  push  on,  as  we  knew  the  way  so  well.  All  went  well  until  the  cur- 
rent we  v/ere  to  follow  turned  to  the  right  and  led  in  a  direction  that 
would  take  us  to  the  Copper  River  Flats  and  so  out  to  the  sea.  The 
storm  was  too  strong  for  us  and  we  were  blown  into  the  ice  float  on  the 
left,  and,  try  as  we  might,  we  could  not  keep  out  of  the  slough  to  the 
left  and  were  kept  from  landing  by  the  slush  ice.  We  seemed  to  be  in 
the  very  center  of  the  storm.  It  kept  blowing  harder  and  getting 
colder.  The  moon  came  out,  and  some  time  after  sunset  we  wei-e able  to 
get  our  boat  to  the  right  side  of  the  stream,  where  we  found  a  blind 
slough  and  pulled  the  boat  in  for  the  night.  We  crawled  under  the 
boat  and  ws;ited  for  morning,  ioping  that  the  storm  would  abate.  Day- 
light brought  no  change.  The  water  had  receded  100  feet  from  the 
boat,  upon  which  the  wet  sand  and  [gravel  had  frozen  3  inches  from  the 
bottom.  We  tried  in  vain  to  get  the  boat  free.  At  this  time  the  wind 
was  blowing  from  60  to  80  miles  an  hour.  To  get  our  bearings  we 
started  for  the  right  side  of  the  river,  as  the  storm  wa.s  raging  so  one 
could  not  see  a  distance  of  20  feet,  owing  to  the  dust,  sand,  and  gravel. 
It  blew  gravel  stones  as  large  as  No.  4  shot,  and  one  required  a  staff  to 
walk  against  the  storm.  We  reached  an  island  covered  with  alders, 
somewhat  sheltered  from  the  storm.  We  were  then  opposite  Spruce 
Camp,  on';.  S  miles  from  Alaganik.  Fully  believing  that  there  was  but 
one  slouyh  between  the  island  and  the  mainland,  it  took  us  uutil  night 
to  get  S'  uie  of  our  effects  from  the  boat. 

The  next  day  we  started  foi"  the  river,  calculating  to  build  a  raft  and 
make  the  other  side,  but  we  found  live  sloughs  instead  of  one,  and  no 
drift.  We  then  built  a  brush  house,  put  up  a  signal,  built  a  fire,  and 
camped.  We  soon  ran  out  of  grub,  and  could  only  wait  for  the  storm 
to  abate.  On  November  22  we  were  successful  in  getting  to  the  other 
shore,  and  started  for  Alaganik.  When  about  half  way  we  met  two 
men  out  hunting  and  asked  them  for  something  to  eat,  as  we  had  nothing 
for  several  dais.  They  were  of  a  party  of  nine  men  who  had  also  been 
blown  wrong  by  the  storm  which  came  down  the  Copper  River.  After 
giving  us  some  beef  tea,  the  entire  party  started  for  Alaganik,  which, 
owing  to  open  sloughs,  we  did  uot  make  uutil  November  3  about  noon. 


I 


54 


COPPER   RIVER   BXPLORINCI    EXPEDITION. 


The  natives  told  us  that  these  winds  continue  down  the  Copper  River 

until  February.     We  stayed  at  Alaganik  until   November  7,  as  the 

sloughs  were  frozen  too  hard  to  proceed  by  boat,  and  not  hard  enough 

to  proceed  by  sled.     We  were  obliged  to  go  over  the  marsh  to  Eyak 

Lake,  which  we  understood  was  frozen  hard  enough  to  hold.      On 

November  8  we  had  much  difficulty  in  crossing  the  glacier  streams,  but 

made  the  lake  by  dusk.     As  it  was  thawing,  the  guide  thought  it  best 

foi'  us  to  go  aci'oss  a  certain  point,  where  we  could  make  Alaganik  by 

land,  but  as  we  neared  the  point  of  land  the  ice  gave  way  and  all  went 

through  into  the  lake,  but  again  landed  safely.     One  sled  load  of  goods 

stayed  in  the  water  all  night.     A  cold  sleet  was  falling  and  we  built  a 

fire  and  waited  for  morning.     November  9  we  built  a  raft  and  secured 

the  sled  we  could  not  get  out  of  the  ice  the  night  before.     We  then 

took  a  small  pack  and  started  for  Eyak,  at  the  head  of  the  hike.    Odiak, 

which  is  just  across  the  arm  of  land  between  the  lake  and  the  sound, 

we  reached  about  12.30  p.  m.     The  storm  started  in  again  more  furious 

than  ever  and  continued  for  four  days.     We  then  went  to  Orca  to  await 

a  steamer  for  the  States.     On  the  21st  of  November  we  started  in  a 

small  sailboat  for  Valdez,  at  which  place  we  landed  November  25  about 

10  p.  m. 

H.  L.  Wilson,  Jr. 


FROM  POEt  YALDEZ  TO  KLITTENA  KAPIDS  VIA  VALDEZ  GLACIER. 


Sir:  Accordin^'^  to  yom-  orders,  I  submit  herewith  a  report  of  my 
trip  frpm  Port  Valdez  to  Klutena  Kiipids  via  the  Vaidez  Glacier.  My 
orders  were  to  proceed  to  Klutena  liapids  and  there  establish  a  relief 
station.  ^. 

I  left  Port  Valdez  Thursday,  May  i,  at  3  a.  m.     The  party  torf- 
sisted  of  Private  Garrett,  John  Fohlin  (dog  driver),  and  myself.     W 
took  with  us  a  dog  team  of  five  dogs,  provisions,  sleeping  bags,  an 
other  articles  necessary  for  the  trip. 

After  traveling  some  4  miles  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  rlacier,  but. 
to  our  great  disappointment,  we  found  no  snow  whatevei  there.  The 
glacier  at  this  point  was  covered  with  rocks,  caused  by  the  many  sno\\ 
slides  from  oH'  the  mountains.  We  were  compelled  to  pack  our  outfits 
up  over  the  second  bench.  The  dog  teamwas  hardly  able  to  pull  the 
empt'  led,  the  ascent  in  several  places  being  nearly'  perpendicular. 
On  (»  :  irival  at  the  second  bench  we  again  packed  'ur  outfits  on  the 
sled  and  prorceded  "ii  our  wa}'  until  ached  what  is  known  as  ti  !■ 

"relief  station."  The  station  consisted  of  a  skeleton  frame  with  a 
tent  stretched  over  it.  constru 'ted  by  Captain  Abercroml)ie  in  the 
spring  of  1897  for  tlu-  relief  of  parties  crossing  and  rrcros.sing  the  gla- 
cier. Upon  our  arrival  at  the  .stati<  '  we  found  an  oil  stove  and  the 
necessary  cooking  utensils.  We  also  found  a  large  amount  of  hard 
tack,  placed  there  for  the  use  of  unfortunates  detained  on  the  glacier 
for  any  length  of  time. 

On  leaving  here  we  continued  on  our  journey,  but  had  not  traveled 
far  before  encountering  a  blindii  4  snow  storm.  However,  the  trail 
was  easily  followed  and  we  U  ,10  alarm  whatever.  We  finally  reached 
the  foot  of  the  summit,  after  having  traveled  some  15  miles.  Here  was 
located  another  relief  station,  and  upon  entering  the  same  we  found  a 
prospector.  This  man  started  to  haul  his  cache  back  to  Valdez,  but 
becoming  snow  blind  was  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the  relief  statioi. 
He  informed  us  that  he  had  been  living  on  the  glacier  ^or  some  nine- 
teen days,  and  had  given  up  all  hope  of  ever  getting  of,  l)eing  physi- 
cally and  mentally  broken  down.  We  waited  at  the  station  some  time 
for  the  ptorm  to  abate,  but  the  longer  we  remained  the  fier(!er  it  raged, 
so  we  concluded  to  make  an  attempt  to  cross  the  summit  that  evening. 
After  travelling  some  few  rods  from  the  station  we  fully  realized  how 

66 


w 


66 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDxTION. 


diflBcult  was  the  tiisk  we  had  undertaken,  the  summit  being  some  4,800 
feet  high  and  the  ascent  some  1,500  feet  to  the  mile.  At  this  time  it 
was  impossible  to  find  the  trail,  nmch  less  make  any  headway,  as  the 
snow  was  alx)ut  fourteen  inches  deep.  The  storm  had  changea  to  a 
raging  blizzard  and  we  were  unable  to  see  any  distance  ahead  of  us. 
We  would  often  !)e  brought  to  a  halt  on  the  edge  of  a  crevasse  an  hun- 
dred feet  deep.  At  last,  after  seveml  hours'  hard  travel,  we  managed 
to  reach  the  foot  of  the  glacier.  Arriving  there  we  found  three  more 
prospectors,  who  had  pitched  their  tent  at  that  point,  being  afraid  to 
venture  across  the  summit  until  the  storm  had  abated.  One  of  the 
party  nad  contracted  scurvy  and  was  unable  to  travel.  The  only  pos- 
sible way  for  him  to  reach  the  coast  was  for  his  partners  to  sled  him 
across  the  glacier,  which  1  afterwards  learned  they  did.     . 

We  again  found  the  trail  and  had  no  trouble  in  getting  down  to  Bar- 
rett's camp.  After  resting  there  for  a  few  minutes,  we  continued  our 
journey. 

At  the  foot  of  the  glacier  we  found  soma  ten  or  twelve  cabins,  all 
deserted  with  the  exception  of  one.  Upon  going  up  to  this  one,  we 
found  an  old  German,  who  seemed  very  indignant  at  us  for  disturbing 
his  sleep.  We  learned  that  the  night  before  some  miscreant  had 
broken  into  his  cabin  and  stolen  a  considerable  portion  of  his  cache, 
including  his  gun  and  ammunition.  Upon  telling  him  that  we  were 
connected  with  Captain  Abercrombie,  he  concluded  to  take  us  in  for 
the  night. 

The  following  morning  we  I'esumed  our  journey.  The  snow  had 
become  soft,  and  it  was  tortuous  to  continue  for  an}^  distance,  so  we 
concluded  to  make  the  Saw  Mill  Camp  and  remain  there  until  the 
weather  should  clear;  but,  unfortunattdy,  it  did  not  dear  as  we 
expected,  and  we  were  obliged  to  remain  here  for  two  days  and  two 
nights.  On  the  morning  of  thi^-  7th  the  weathei-  had  improved  some- 
what, and  we  were  enabled  to  pi-oceed  on  our  journe}'.  Upon  our 
arrival  at  Lake  Abercrombie  we  found  a  crust  had  formed  on  the  lake, 
and  we  rodv^  some  22  miles  across  the  same.  After  leaving  the  lake 
we  proceeded  down  the  Klutena  River,  but  after  traveling  some  few 
miles  we  found  the  river  open  and  hardly  snow  enough  along  the  bank 
to  sled  our  outiit.  The  dogs  at  this  time  were  prui-tically  of  no  use, 
owing  to  the  bad  condition  of  their  feet,  caused  by  traveling  over  the 
many  rocks  thai  lined  the  l>ank.  Finally  we  reached  Klutena  lliipids 
the  following  cxening.  Here  we  found  about  fifty  cabins.  But  three 
of  them  were  occupied  at  the  time.  Upon  inquiry  I  learned  that  most 
of  the  inhabitants  had  either  left  for  the  8*^ates  or  other  parts  of  the 
country.  Before  leaving  1  learned  that  a  large  amount  of  stores  was 
located  at  Copp(>r  Center,  and  that  the  owners  were  willing  to  trade 
the  goods  for  like  stores  at  Valdez.     I  therefoi'e  recommend  that  you 


COPl»KR   KIVKR    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


57 


pos- 
him 


establish  anothei-  station  at  Copper  Center  for  tlie  relief  of  those  pros- 
pectors in  and  around  that  lo(!ality,  as  well  as  for  those  coming  down 
the  Copper  lliver. 

After  establishing  a  station  at  the  rapids  and  leaving  Private  Gar- 
rett in  charge,  we  started  on  our  return  journey  to  Valdez,  about  1.80 
a.  ni.  May  10.  The  weather  was  delightful,  and  the  snow  having  a 
fairly  good  crust  we  were  enabled  to  make  exceptionally  good  time 
until  about  1  p.  m.,  when  the  crust  became  soft.  Wcj  then  resort«;d 
to  snowshoes  until  after  crossing  the  summit  of  the  gljKiier,  where  the 
crust  was  again  sufficiently  strong  to  sustain  our  weight  without  the 
use  of  the  snowshoes.  After  trudging  along  for  about  seven  hours, 
we  arrived  at  the  relief  station,  where  we  concluded  to  remain  over 
night  rather  than  take  any  chances  in  trying  to  get  down  over  the 
thii'd  bench.  This  third  bench  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  points  on 
the  glacier,  owing  to  the  many  crevasses  and  snowslides.  The  follow- 
ing morning  we  left  the  relief  station  and  proceeded  to  Valdez.  The 
trail  was  fairly  good  until  we  reached  the  second  l)ench,  where  we 
were  again  compelled  to  pack  our  outtit  down  to  the  foot  of  the  glacier, 
and  from  there  we  sledded  our  outtit  to  Valdez,  arriving  there  at  1 

a.  ra.  May  11, 1899. 

John  F.  Rice. 
Capt.  W.  R.  Abekokombie, 

Coiwmandlng  Copper  River  Exploring  Expedition,  Alanka. 


BEFORT  OF  FIRST  LIETTT.  WALTER  C.  BABCOCK,  EIGHTH  U.  8. 
CAVALRY,  FROM  AFRIL  26.  1899,  TO  OCTOBER  9,  1899. 


Sir:  Pursuant  to  instructions  1  liave  the  honor  to  submit  the  follow- 
ing report  on  the  location  and  construction  of  the  Trans- Alaskan  Mili- 
tary Road: 

Orders  of  April  26,  1899,  placed  me  in  charge  of  the  substation 
along  the  military  road.  Station  No.  2,  the  first  one  constructed,  was 
some  16  miles  east  of  Valdez  at  the  head  of  the  Hood  plain  of  Lowe 
River  at  the  base  of  the  mounfcr.ins  (29, 30)  near  the  entrance  (27)  to 
Keystone  Canyon.  This  substation  was  established  on  April  29,  when 
the  first  pack  train  left  Valdez  (26),  carrying  rations  and  camp  equi- 
page. The  train  was  composed  of  30  pack  horses,  each  loaded  with  200 
pounds;  2  horse  sleds,  6  packers,  2  sled  drivel's,  1  camp  cook,  and 
myself. 

Our  route  was  southward  over  the  flats  at  the  head  of  Valdez  Bay 
2i  miles,  thence  eastward  up  the  flood  plain  of  Lowe  River,  crossing 
and  recrossing  the  river  and  its  branches  many  times  (90),  a  distance 
of  l-t  miles  to  the  entrance  of  Keystone  Canyon.  After  leaving  the 
tidal  flats  at  the  head  of  Valdez  Bay  much  snow  was  encountered  (91), 
which,  toward  noon,  became  soft,  the  horses  sinking  to  their  bellies. 
Wallowing  through  this  snow  continued  for  a  distance  of  9  miles,  or 
three  hours,  after  which  the  snow  gradually  became  less  deep,  the  last 
3  miles  being  over  bare,  frozen  gravel  bars,  making  the  trip  a  hard 
one  on  heavily  laden  unshod  horses. 

Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  valley  (120),  camp  was  made  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  on  the  north  side,  in  heavy  spruce  and  cottonwood 
timber  (98),  near  the  site  selected  for  the  substation.  The  stores  were 
piled  on  a  rude  log  platform  and  the  train  then  returned  to  Valdez, 
leaving  the  cook  and  sled  drivers  at  the  camp. 

Two  days  later  the  pack  train  again  left  Valdez  for  station  No.  2, 
carrying  supplies  and  accompanied  by  Mr.  Palmer,  topographer,  in 
charge  of  the  location  of  the  road;  Mr.  Holland,  foreman  of  the  con- 
struction gang,  and  fifteen  axmen,  rock  workers,  etc.,  with  their  tools. - 
On  the  following  day.  May  3,  the  brush  was  cleared  away,  ground 
broken  for  a  storehouse,  and  work  on  the  building  begun. 

This  storehouse  is  a  log  structure,  15  by  30  feet  inside,  and  is  a  type 
of  all  the  buildings  constructed  by  the  expedition  (99).     Its  walls  are 
about  10  feet  high,  the  roof  steeply  pitched,  the  ridge  lengthwise  of 
58 


COPPER  mVEB   EXPLOttINO   EXPEDITION. 


69 


the  building.  The  walls  and  ends  are  made  of  spruce  and  cottonwood 
logs,  12  to  1<»  inches  in  diameter,  notched  together  at  the  corners  of 
the  building  and  further  secured  by  stout  wooden  pins.  Rafters  for 
the  roof  were  strongly  braced  to  support  the  great  weight  of  snow  in  win- 
ter. The  roof  was  Imarded  with  1-inch  lumber  and  carefully  shingled. 
Crevices  between  all  the  logs  of  the  walls  and  ends  were  chinked  with 
dry  moss,  driven  in  tightly  and  held  in  place  by  trianglar  strips  of 
split  logs  on  the  outside,  thus  making  a  water-tight  building.  The 
building  has  one  door  and  two  windows.  A  soldier  was  detailed  as 
storekeeper  in  harge  of  the  supplies  at  this  station.  Dr.  Neil  C. 
Trew  (101),  acting  assistant  surgeon,  United  States  Army,  and  Mr. 
E.  M.  Westervelt  (102),  clerk,  arrived,  and  took  station  at  this  place, 
making  a  total  of  25  men  at  the  camp. 

Work  on  the  storehouse  was  pushed,  regardless  of  weather,  as  it 
was  important  to  get  the  stores  under  cover  without  delay.  From 
noon  of  the  4th  to  noon  of  the  7th  of  May  it  snowed  almost  continu- 
ously, covering  everything  with  four  inches  of  soft-snow  slush,  mak- 
ing all  the  timbers  wet,  and  considerably  delaying  the  work.  Working 
hours  were  from  7:30  a.  m.  to  11:30  a.  m.,  and  from  1  p.  m.  to  5  p.  m., 
making  eight  hours  per  day,  Sundays  excepted.  In  six  days  the  build- 
ing was  practically  completed,  with  the  exception  of  the  roof  boarding 
and  shingling,  the  material  for  which  had  not  arrived. 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  THE  ROAD. 

Meanwhile  Mr.  Palmer,  topographer,  was  at  work  looking  for  a 
suitable  line  for  the  road  and  blazing  it  out  for  the  brush  cutters.  On 
completion  of  the  storehouse,  work  on  the  road  was  begun  over  the 
line  as  blazed  by  Mr.  Palmer.  This  line  started  from  the  gravel  flat, 
a  quarter  o^  a  mile  west  of  the  storehouse,  on  the  north  side  of  Lowe 
River  Valley  (28,  46),  and  ascended  the  mountain  with  many  switch- 
backs and  turns  in  order  to  maintain  a  suitable  grade.  The  ground  was 
frozen  to  a  depth  of  5  feet,  and  from  0  to  8  feet  of  snow  encoun- 
tered. Work  was  consequently  slow  and  results  for  the  first  mile  were 
most  discouraging.  Near  the  summit  of  the  first  ridge,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  700  feet  above  the  valley,  so  much  snow  blocked  the  way  that 
it  was  labor  wasted  to  dig  through  it.  Work  was,  therefore,  tempo- 
rarily abandoned  on  this  part  of  the  road,  and  the  construction  of  a 
back  trail  along  the  sidehills  of  the  valley  to  Valdez  begun.  This  was 
continued  for  1^  miles  when  work  on  the  forward  trail  was  resumed. 

In  the  spring  and  early  summer  a  road  along  the  sides  of  Lowe 
River  Valley  from  Valdez  to  station  No.  2  is  unnecessaiy,  as  the 
river  is  easily  fordable  at  all  points.  At  this  early  date  the  valley  was 
still  more  or  less  covered  with  snow,  which  prevented  determining  the 
course  of  Lowe  River.  This  is  why  work  on  the  road  was  begun  from 
station  No.  2. 


CM 


60 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLOBINO    EXPEDITION. 


Mr.  Palmer's  work  was  not  satisfactory.  His  location  for  the  road 
was  faulty,  and  he  failed  to  prepare  a  suitable  map  for  the  region 
traversed  by  the  trail.  He  was  relieved  from  his  work  May  25  and 
ordered  to  Valdez,  and  myself  detailed  to  determine  the  location  of  the 
road  and  to  prepare  the  topographical  map  of  the  route  and  the  adja- 
cent country. 

By  the  2()th  of  May  work  had  progressed  so  far  that  nuich  time  was 
lost  by  the  construction  party  in  going  from  and  coming  back  to  the 
camp,  and  it  became  necessary  to  establish  a  new  construction  camp 
nearer  the  working  party.  A  new  camp  site  (103)  was  selected,  2 
miles  from  station  No.  2,  and  one-half  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  trail 
as  cleared  and  graded,  and  a  temporary  trail  for  the  pack  train  cleared 
over  this  advanced  portion.  May  26  (Sunday)  camp  was  moved  to 
the  new  site.  It  was  at  this  point  that  the  real  difficulties  of  road 
building  began. 

The  new  camp  was  near  the  edge  of  Keystone  Canyon,  on  the  only 
spot  within  3  miles  where  a  site  for  so  Ifj^e  a  camp  existed.  Keystone 
Canyon  extends  from  north  to  south  for  about  k-  miles,  flanked  on 
both  east  and  west  with  steep  mountains  4,500  to  5,700  feet  high  (32, 
33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  40,  41,  42,  43.  47).  On  the  east  side  the  walls 
of  the  canyon  are  from  800  to  1,300  feet  in  height  and  very  steep 
throughout.  Near  the  middle  of  the  canyon  is  a  sheer  rock  precipice, 
one-half  mile  in  length  and  800  feet  high,  departing  but  a  few  degrees 
from  the  vertical.  On  the  west  the  canvon  wall  is  nearlv  vertical  to  a 
height  of  from  300  to  450  feet,  above  which  the  slope  is  less  steep, 
thus  forming  a  natural  bench,  more  or  less  well  defined.  It  is  along 
this  bench  that  the  road  is  built.  In  several  places  the  rock  walls  of 
the  canyon  extend  above  this  natural  bench,  and  through  these  ledges 
the  road  had  to  be  cut.  Between  station  No.  2  and  the  end  of  the  can- 
yon some  600  cubic  yards  of  rock  were  cut  out,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
breaking  up  and  removing  of  enormous  bowlders,  fragments  from  the 
cliffs  above  that  were  scattered  along  the  route. 

By  the  end  of  May  work  had  settled  down  to  a  regular  routine. 
The  lazy  and  disgruntled  men  had  been  weeded  out.  Every  man 
understood  what  he  had  to  do  and  did  it  willingly.  The  foreman  of 
the  working  party,  Mr.  Holland  (106),  handled  the  men  well.  The 
Government  was  gettinj;:  a  road  built  cheaply.  The  workmen  were 
getting  a  road  from  the  coast  to  the  interior  that  would  pass  their 
mining  claims,  and  they  were  getting  paid  for  building  it.  I  have 
never  seen  a  harder  working  or  more  faithful  lot  of  men. 

Far  in  advance  of  the  construction  party  were  one  or  more  men 
familiar  with  the  country,  sent  in  to  look  up  the  general  route  ahead 
and  report  on  the  grades,  state  of  the  glacier  streams,  nature  of  the 
ground,  etc.     Just  in  advance  of  the  workmen  went  one  or  two  men 


COPPER  BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


61 


to  blaze  the  mutual  line  throujjh  the  timber  and  thick  brush.  The 
woik  of  this  party  wa.s  the.  most  exhauHtlng  of  all. 

On  the  steep  sides  of  thi.s  canyon  the  brush,  mainly  alder,  grows  In 
a  dense  mass,  twenty  feet  or  more  high,  and  is  twisted  and  intertwined 
in  an  inconceivable  tangle.  The  heavy  snows  of  winter  bend  these 
l)ushes  down  to  the  ground  and  give  them  such  a  set  that,  when  the 
snow  disappears  in  the  spring  they  stand  out  from  the  ground  at  an 
angle  of  about  40  degrees.  Thickly  interspersed  with  this  alder  brush 
and  growing  straight  up  are  devil  clubs,  covered  with  sharp,  barbed 
spines.  The  effort  of  climbing  over,  under,  and  through  this  brush 
on  a  side  hill  so  steep  as  to  scarcely  afford  a  foothold  ;  falling,  stum- 
bling, grasping  at  the  devil  clubs  ;  bruised  and  beaten  by  the  stout 
alder  branches,  and,  at  the  same  time,  endeavoring  to  blaze  out  a  line 
with  a  uniform  grade  or  on  a  level  is  simply  inconceivable  to  one  who 
has  not  ti'ied  it.  Frequently  this  has  to  be  done  many  times  before  a 
lino  is  secured  that  is  considered  the  best  possible.  The  first  trip  of 
this  kind  along  the  sides  of  Keystone  Canyon  required  six  hours  to 
make  three  miles,  and  this  was  followed  by  the  return  trip,  over  a 
slightly  different  line,  back  to  camp.  This  was  done  four  times  before 
the  present  route  was  selected. 

Every  inch  of  the  route  has  to  be  covered  by  an  advance  party  in 
this  way  before  the  work  on  a  new  section  can  be  commenced.  The 
country  is  full  of  surprises.  In  one  case,  without  a  personal  investi- 
gation on  my  part,  I  took  the  word  of  one  of  my  men  who  had  been 
in  advance,  that  a  straight  transit  line  could  be  run  through  a  dense 
Cottonwood  forest  for  2^  miles  in  a  direction  to  reach  a  glacier  stream 
at  the  point  selecteid  for  a  bridge.  On  running  the  transit  line  for  1 
mile  1  came  to  a  swamp  and  bog,  not  of  gi'eat  extent,  but  so  large  as 
to  necessitate  a  change  t)f  route.  The  man  in  advance  had  passed 
through  the  timber  and  brush  a  quarter  of  a  mile  nearer  the  mounttiin 
and,  crossing  no  stream,  had  very  naturally  concluded  that  the  ground 
was  diy  and  solid  farther  out.  The  result  was  a  delay  of  one  and  a- 
half  days  and  a  lesson  to  myself.  Thereafter  I  never  failed  to  go  over 
the  line  in  person  iiefore  deciding  on  the  route. 

On  a  new  and  untouched  portion  of  the  route  the  axmen  preceded, 
clearing  the  ground  of  all  brush,  treees,  and  fallen  timber.  They 
were  followed  by  a  second  party,  with  picks,  crowbars,  and  shovels, 
that  graded  the  trail,  often  cutting  deep  into  the  side  hill  to  gain  the 
necessary  width  for  the  road,  and  removing  all  obstructions  but  the 
heavier  bowlders  and  the  solid  rock.  The  rock  workers  followed  with 
blasting  powder  and  drills,  and  removed  all  rock  too  heavj  or  hard  to 
be  moved  and  broken  up  by  picks  and  bars.  Lastly  came  two  or  three 
men  with  sledge  hammers,  who  broke  up  fragments  of  rock  left  after 
blasting  and  scattered  it  along  the  road  as  ballast. 

As  the  work  through  the  canyon  progressed,  the  working  party  was 


62 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


ii 


'f 


too  far  away  from  the  camp  to  return  for  the  midday  meal  and,  there 
being  no  other  camp  site  nearer  the  working  part}',  two  men  liad  to 
he  detiichod  to  carry  out  the  focxl. 

The  mountain  sides  were  ho  steep  that  the  axmen  had  to  support 
themselves  by  hanging  to  the  ))rush  with  one  hand  while  they  chopped 
with  the  other.  At  times  the  graders  had  to  mak(v  vertical  cuttings  of 
16  and  20  feet  in  order  to  gain  a  horizontal  width  of  5  feet  for  the 
road.  In  the  first  4  miles  from  sUition  No.  2,  MUhm\  mountain  streams 
were  crossed.  Eleven  of  these  streams  ran  in  deep  gullies,  across 
which  retaining  walls  were  built,  and  the  space  thus  inc^losed  filbnl  up 
with  loose  rock  through  which  the  stream  could  pass.  One  wooden 
bridge  was  constructed  in  this  section.  Work  over  th(i  4  miles  through 
the  Keystone  Canyon  was  the  most  difficult  of  any  encountered  during 
the  season. 

It  was  necessary  to  i  ush  the  work  as  rapidly  an  possible  to  get  the 
post-office  inspector,  Mr.  Wayland,  and  his  outfit,  and  Mr.  Rohn, 
topographer,  and  his  party  through.  Eleven  additional  men  were 
employed  and  put  to  work  June  12,  so  that  at  this  date  thcjre  were 
twenty -four  men  on  the  work. 

On  June  16  two  packhorses  belonging  to  prospectors  were  led  over 
the  road  coming  from  the  interior  of  the  country;  :ind  at  5  p.  m., 
Saturday,  June  17,  the  trail  was  ready  for  the  pack  trains  to  go  in. 
The  road  through  4  miles  of  this  canyon,  the  key  of  the  whole  route, 
was  constructed  in  thirty-live  working  days. 

Sunday,  June  18,  a  train  of  5  horses  went  over  the  road  to  the 
interior,  and  the  following  day  were  followed  by  38  more  pack  horses 
and  9  dogs  (81,  82,  84),  22  of  the  horses  and  the  dogs  belonging  to  the 
expedition. 

Once  through  the  Keystone  Canyon  the  valley  turns  to  the  eastward 
and  widens  into  what  is  locally  known  as  Dutch  Flat  (48,  49).  Along 
this  flat  two  swift  glacier  streams  empty  into  the  Lowe  River  through 
deep  canyons  from  the  north,  and  another,  the  south  fork,  from  the 
southeast.  The  mountains  on  either  hand  are  very  steep,  rising 
abruptly  from  the  gravel  flat  (41,  60,  106),  but  having  well-defined 
branches  (107),  nearly  level,  and  following  the  contours  of  the  moun- 
tains. The  road  by  a  very  gradual  gi-ade  from  the  canyon  entrance 
drops  to  the  lowest  of  these  benches  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley 
and  follows  along  it  at  a  distance  of  2  miles  to  the  point  of  crossing 
the  first  glacier  stream. 

Here  a  bridge  was  necessary.  The  stream  in  the  early  spring  is  a  mere 
clear- water  mountain  brook,  which  one  could  easily  cross  dryshod.  In 
midsummer,  however,  it  is  a  boiling,  surging  glacier  stream,  8  to  10  feet 
deep,  with  a  current  of  15  miles  an  hour,  crashing  together  the  bowlders 
in  its  bed  with  great  noise  and  bringing  down  large  pieces  of  ice  (66). 
To  attempt  to  ford  it  at  high  water  would  be  suicidal.     On  the  farther 


COPPER    RIVKR    EXPLORINO    EXPEDITION. 


68 


side  a  natural  rock  aWutiiuuit  was  found,  opposite  to  a  spot  where  a 
crib  could  Iki  constructed  on  lied  r<K',k.  This  crib  M'as  put  in  plac*^  and 
nianj'  of  the  longer  bridge  timbers  cut  before  the  main  working  party 
reached  this  point. 

This  bridge  is  a  type  of  all  the  larger  bridges  constructed  along  the 
road  (46).  The  cril)  is  of  rough  rhomboidal  shape,  the  acute  angles 
pointing  up  and  down  stream,  and  is  built  of  large  spruce  timbers 
notched  together  at  the  corners,  and  is  of  such  a  height  as  to  place  the 
deck  of  the  bridge  some  fcetalnjve  highest  water.  The  inclosure  thus 
formed  is  filled  with  large  Iniwldersand  rock.  The  det^k  of  the  bridge 
is  supporh'd  on  five  spruce  stringers,  14  to  16  inches  in  diameter  at  butt, 
and  resting  on  the  crib  and  natural  abutment,  a  span  over  the  stream 
of  88  feet.  From  the  crib  to  the  cut  bank  of  the  stream,  a  distance  of 
about  30  feet,  four  stringers  wei'e  laid,  all  of  them  notched  and  pinned 
firmly  to  the  crib.  On  the  stringers  werti  laid,  crosswise  logs,  0  inches 
in  diameter,  cut  to  lay  close  together  and  notched  to  rest  solidly  on 
the  stringers.  Every  5  or  6  feet  one  of  these  was  pinned  at  both  ends 
to  the  outer  stringers.  On  the  top  were  laid  side  rails  at  either  side, 
alsf)  pinned  down.  The  projecting  ends  of  the  cross  timbers  were 
neatly  sawed  off. 

By  the  18th  of  July  over  8  miles  of  road  had  been  constructed  from 
station  2  and  to  within  4  miles  of  the  summit,  ini^luding  four  bridges, 
two  of  them  over  60  feet  long,  61  i  yards  of  rock  had  been  blasted  and 
600  yards  more  broken  up  and  moved  by  hammei-s  and  bare.  Retain- 
ing walls  across  narrow  ravines  had  been  built  and  the  whole  trail 
graded  and  ballasted.  This  work  had  been  at^complished  in  one  and 
one-half  months,  over  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  route,  with  an 
average  of  15  working  men. 

In  the  construction  of  bridge  No.  4,  that  ovei"  the  second  glacier 
stream  (62)  emptying  into  Dutch  Flat,  there  were  many  difficulties  to 
be  met.  At  this  time,  the  middle  of  July,  the  streams  were  high. 
This  one  was  some  50  feet  wide  and  10  feet  deep  at  the  bridge  site 
and  rushing  through  at  a  speed  of  14.7  miles  an  hour.  Timber  of  a 
length  sufficient  to  cross  this  stream  with  one  span  could  not  be 
obtained  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  consequently  three  cribs  had  to 
be  constructed.  The  first,  a  low,  small  one,  was  on  the  shore;  the 
second  was  placed  in  the  stream,  one-third  the  distance  across.  It  was 
built  on  shore,  10  feet  high,  of  the  largest  timbers,  and  was  made  very 
strong  to  "withstand  the  enormous  force  of  water  and  the  blows  of 
large  cakes  of  ice  brought  down  from  the  glacier.  It  had  to  be  moved 
out  into  the  stream  through  the  boiling,  swirling  water,  to  a  depth  of 
5  feet  and  there  sunk  and  ballasted  with  rocks  and  bowlders.  The 
first  attempt  was  a  failure,  the  crib  being  washed  away  before  it  could 
be  secured  in  place.  The  second  attempt  succeeded.  The  third  crib 
was  near  the  failher  shore,  in  slack  water.     Most  of  the  stringers  for 


64 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORIN(»    EXPEDITION. 


the  hri<lg«  wjmt  found  only  on  the  farther  shore,  at  a  distantte  of  from 
one-half  to  three-fourthn  of  a  iiiMe  from  the  Htream.  The  trail  had 
not  been  cleaned  on  the,  farther  side  and  the  brush  had  to  he  (rut  away 
for  each  log  from  the  j)la<!e  whtMHi  It  lay  down  to  the  stream  before  it 
could  l>e  hauled  t<}  its  place.  The  total  length  of  this  bridge  is  112 
feet,  with  four  spans,  the  largest  38  feet. 

From  this  bridge  to  the  suiiunit  of  Thompson  Pass  (48)  the  road 
ascends  by  a  nearly  uniform  grade  of  about  1  in  10.  Thompson  Pass, 
the  lowest  pmctical  route  over  the  divide  l)etween  Lowe  River  and  the 
Chena,  has  an  elevation  of  2,840  feet  and  rises  alM)vo  the  river  2,100 
feet.  From  its  summit  down  to  the  C'hena,  u  liistance  of  about  7  miles, 
the  drop  is  only  about  700  feet,  along  Ptiirmigan  Creek. 

For  1  mile  from  bridge  No.  4  work  was  comparatively  easy,  there 
being  but  little  grading  necessary  and  but  few  streams  to  cross,  prac- 
tically the  only  work  Inung  to  (dear  the  route  of  brush  and  falh'n  tim- 
■  er.  The  next  three-(iuarters  of  a  mile  was  along  a  steep  hillside 
between  what  is  known  as  the  first  and  second  l)enches.  The  line  for 
the  road  was  over  enomious  Ixjwlders,  of  many  tons  weight,  covered 
with  deep  moss  and  vegetable  mold  and  the  whole  overgrown  with 
alder  and  devil  club.  Clearing  the  brush  uiii  hk  raping  away  the  moss 
revealed  great  gaps  and  crevasses  l)etween  the  l)owlders,  which  had  to 
be  filled  with  broken  rock  and  the  corners  of  the  bowlders  broken  off. 
This  rock  \.i  of  a  light-green  color  and  mtv  hard  and  heavy.  Drills 
were  frequently  broken  and  two  men  wer»^  kept  constantly  at  work  at 
the  portable  forge  I'csharpening. 

Arriving  at  the  second  bench  the  work  again  became  easier  and  the 
brush  much  lower  and  less  thick.  The  last  2  miles  toward  the  summit 
are  practically  free  from  brush  and  the  ground  hard  and  no  work  was 
required. 

By  July  27  the  road  was  completed  to  the  summit  of  Thompson 
Pass.  During  the  month  preceding  there  had  been  nmch  travel  on  the 
road.  The  coming  and  going  of  *the  pack  train  every  few  days,  bring- 
ing supplies  from  Valdez  and  station  No.  2,  had  packed  the  trail  hard 
through  the  Keystone  Canyon  and  had  discovered  all  we^k  places.  A 
man  was  furnished  with  tools  and  detailed  to  patrol  the  road  from  sta- 
tion No.  2  to  the  summit  and  repair  the  road  wherever  necessary. 
This  was  kept  up  until  the  departure  of  the  expedition  in  October. 

Many  prospectors  (119)  were  constantly  coming  and  going  over  tiie 
road,  and  all  expressed  their  satisfaction  and  relief  at  haviiig  a  road  to 
travel  that  avoided  the  dangerous  Valdez  Glacier,  and  shortened  the 
journey  from  the  interior  by  several  days. 

A  carefully  contoured  map  of  the  region  traversed  by  the  road  was 
prepared,  the  line  of  the  road  carefully  plotted,  and  levels  run  over  the 
entire  distance  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  and  a  profile  constructed. 
Elevations  of  all  mountain  peaks  were  carefully  determined. 


COl'J'KR    RIVKR    EXl'LOBINO    EXPEDITION. 


05 


ADVANCK  UKJATION  KOK  THK  ROAD. 


By  tho  iiii({dl(^  of  July  I  found  it  ntn-oHsary  to  p«'i*soiiHlly  dotorinino 
tln'  routii  for  tlu^  road  fur  in  advuncoof  tlio  wori<in^  {>arty,and  on  tiio 
•27ti»  1  "ft  tho  construction  fain[)  with  a  Hinall  party  for  that  purpose. 
My  instructions  w«ro  to  pr«par<!  a  to|)o};ruphicul  map  of  the  country 
traversed,  hxratc  the  route  for  the  roa<l,  making  careful  measurements 
of  the  distaru^e,  and  contiiuu^  the  photoj^raphit^  work  along  the  route 
selected  for  the  road,  making  cart^ful  measurements  of  the  distance,  and 
continue  the  photogmphic  work  along  the  route  selei^ted  for  tlm  road. 
I  was  to  proceed  as  far  as  possible  and  return  to  Valdez  not  later  than 
Octol)er  15.  I  made  my  outtit  as  compact  and  light  as  possible  and 
took  with  nie  Mr.  Worthington  as  a  transit  man,  and  two  packers, 
one  to  work  as  a  rodman  for  Mr.  Worthington  and  one  to  cook  and  caro 
for  the  horses  while  in  camp.  Four  strong  pack  horses  carried  our 
sleeping  bags,  shelter  tents,  two  changes  of  clothing,  thirty  days' 
rations,  cameni  and  supplies  therefor.  The  transit,  level  rod,  axes, 
rifle,  and  shotgun  were  carried  by  hand. 

From  the  summit  of  Thompson  Pass  my  route  was  down  Ptarmigan 
Creek  to  the  Chena,  the  south  fork  of  the  Tiekell  River.  The  di!scent 
to  the  Chena  is  about  7  miles,  with  a  gradual  drop  of  about  700 
feet.  The  ground  nmch  of  the  way  along  Ptjirmigan  Creek  (108)  is 
soft  and  boggy  and  is  crossed  by  many  small  glacier  streams.  All  of 
the  Alaskan  glacier  streams,  be  they  large  or  small,  should  be  treated 
with  the  greatest  respect.  The  last  one  feeding  Ptarmigan  Creek  from 
the  west  came  near  being  disastrous  to  my  expeditiorj.  (I  cite  the  case 
as  illustmting  the  force  of  one  of  these  smaller  streams.)  The  stream 
at  this  time  was  only  15  feet  wide  and  18  inches  deep,  but  very  swift. 
I  was  ahead  and  forded  it  without  mishap.  Mr.  Worthington,  who  was 
carrying  the  transit  and  shotgun,  with  a  small  hand  ax  fastentsd  in  the 
waistband  of  his  trousers,  followed,  and  was  about  to  step  out  on  the 
farther  shore  when  his  legs  were  struck  by  a  moving  bowlder  and  his 
feet  carried  from  under  him.  He  disappeared  in  the  ice-cold  water, 
his  hat  floating  off  downstream  faster  than  I  could  run.  After  a  few 
minutes'  struggle  he  crawled  out  on  the  side  from  which  he  had  started. 
He  still  had  hold  of  the  gun,  but  the  transit  and  hand  ax  were  gone. 
He  could  not  be  induced  to  attempt  a  <rrossing  at  that  point  again,  but 
Anally  crossed  half  a  mile  above  and  near  the  foot  of  the  glacier.  The 
sharp  points  of  the  transit  legs  were  pointed  down  streaui  when  he 
lost  his  hold,  and  1  believed  it  could  not  go  far  without  lodging  against 
a  bowlder  or  snag  in  spite  of  the  swift  current.  All  search,  however, 
was  fruitless,  and  we  went  on  to  camp,  intending  to  start  early  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  when  the  stream  would  be  lower,  and  attempt  to  turn 
it  to  a  new  channel.  This  we  could  have  easily  done.  Fortunately, 
such  labor  was  unnecessary,  as  on  approaching  the  stream  one  of  my 

S.  Doc.  306 5 


66 


COPPER   KIVKK    EXPLOKINO    EXPEDITION. 


I    ! 


I    I 


men  discovcrcil  tho  Icjjs  of  tlu>  tripod  caught  in  n  snag  450  yards  below 
where  tho  inisluii)  Imd  occurred.  It  had  been  in  the  bed  of  the  stream 
for  fourtet  i  hours  and  bodily  carried  down  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  was 
sadl}-  injured;  but  none  of  the  parts  whose  use  could  not  be  dispensed 
v/ith  were  injured  or,  as  we  ])elieved,  out  of  adjustment,  a  conclusion 
that  luis  since  been  verified  by  the  makers,  to  whom  it  was  sent  for 
repaii'H  on  my  return. 

To  follow  down  the  Chena  along  its  bottom  for  any  great  distance 
was  impossible.  It  was  a  larger  river  than  any  I  had  yet  encountered. 
At  the  mouth  of  Ptannigan  Creek  and  for  some  miles  below  (63,  54)  it 
flows  over  a  wide  gravel  bed  in  many  channel  -,,  all  too  deep  or  swift 
to  be  forderl  at  this  season,  often  coming  close  (110)  to  the  steep  ridges 
thai  limit  its  valley  on  the  south  side. 

The  cross)  ig  of  Ptarmigan  Creek  at  its  mouth  i,?as  difficult.  We 
accomplished  the  crossing  by  loading  two  of  our  horses  with  light 
loads  and  then  leading  them  across,  riding  the  other  two  animals  and 
then  returning  for  another  load.  Six  trips  were  made  in  this  way 
before  all  </ur  supplies  and  ourselves  were  landed  safely  on  the  other 
♦side.  Fioui  this  point  th  hard  work  of  the  trip  began.  My  two 
packers  were  sent  on  ahead  to  look  up  a  route  down  the  river  along 
the  ridges  to  a  suitable  camping  place  and  cut  out  a  trail  through  the 
brush  for  the  horses. 

Meanwhile  Mr.  Worthington  and  mj'^self  extended  the  map  up  the 
Chena  some  mileu  and  looked  over  the  vicinity  for  a  suitable  route  for 
the  road.  I  finally  decided  on  a  line  on  the  east  side  of  Ptarmigan 
Creek,  high  up  on  the  mountain  sides  and  descending  by  a  slight 
grade  to  the  Chen;.  Valley.  This  location  avoided  a  crossing  of 
Ptarmigan  Creek  and  placed  the  lin*'  far  above  all  soft  ground  in  the 
bottom,  crossing  the  glacier  streams  where  good  fords  could  be  made. 
Six  streams  were  thus  crossed  between  the  summit  of  Thompson  Pass 
and  thti  Chena  without  the  necessity  of  bridging  them.  Arriving  at 
the  'Jhena  Valley  the  road  turns  gradually  more  to  the  eastward  and 
runs  along  the  mountain  side,  gradually  descending  to  a  point  some 
thren  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Ptarmigan  Creels  At  this  jwint, 
safely  abjve  the  i'iver  bottom,  station  No.  3  was  established,  and  two 
buildings  afterwards  constructed  there — one  as  n  storehouse  the  other 
as  a  cabin  for  the  storekeepers  (56). 

The  next  work  was  to  decide  on  a  site  for  a  bridge  over  the  Chena. 
This  ri'or,  from  a  point  some  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Ptarmigan 
Creek  to  a  point  4  miles  below,  flows  over  a  gravel  flat  in  many 
changing  channels.  To  construct  a  bridge  over  this  part  was  out  of 
the  question.  This  flat  liecomes  gradual!}'  narrower  until  a  point  one 
mile  and  a  half  l)elow  station  No.  3  is  reached.  Here  the  river  in  one 
channel  enters  a  canyon  with  vertical  rock  walls  30  to  60  feet  high. 
A  mile    favther   down,    near  a  prospector's  camp,  known  locally  as 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


67 


mvdti  below 
the  stream 

lilo  and  was 

e  dispensed 
conclusion 

as  sent  for 

iat  distance 
ncountered. 
w  (63,  54)  it 
ep  or  swift 
teep  ridges 

Bcult.  We 
with  light 
mimals  and 
in  this  way 
)n  the  other 
1.  My  two 
river  along 
through  the 

map  up  the 
>le  route  for 
Ptarmigan 
by  a  slight 
crossing  of 
•ound  in  the 
Id  be  made, 
mpson  Pass 
Arriving  at 
istward  and 
point  some 
this  jwint, 
'd,  and  two 
je  the  other 

the  Chena. 
Ptarmigan 
it  in  many 
was  out  of 
a  point  one 
'iver  in  one 
feet  high. 
I  locally  as 


"Th<;  Major's,"  was  a  foot  log  across  the  canyon,  pUu;ed  there  and 
used  by  prospectors.  The  width  at  this  point  was  about  40  feet. 
Not  far  distant  from  this  point  good  timlxir  was  found  in  abundance. 
It  was  here  that  the  bridge  was  (inall}^  located  (57,  58). 

Thii  impossibility  of  getting  my  horses  over  the  stream  on  a  foot 
log  ol»liged  me  to  keep  on  the  south  side  oi  the  river  and  follow  along 
the  rtH'ky  ridges  that  run  parallel  to  the  stream.  Before  determining 
on  the  place  of  the  foot  l«)g  a«  a  suitable  site  for  the  bridge,  I  decided 
to  explore  the  canyon  farther  with  the  idea  of  possibl}^  discovering  a 
better  site.  My  horses  were  .-.»;iit  ahead  each  day  by  the  easiest  route, 
while  Mr.  Worthington  and  myself  followed '^vith  the  transit  and 
mapp«?d  the  (country. 

The  thick  brusi  and  rapid  current  of  the  river  uiade  it  impossible 
to  loi^ate  points  by  triangulation  by  working  back  and  forth  across 
the  valley,  and  resort  was  therefore  had  to  carelful  stadia  measure- 
ments for  distance  and  the  results  plotted  at  once.  By  pro(!eeding  in 
this  v>'ay  an  al)solute  meawured  base  line  was  available  at  all  times  xrom 
which  horizontal  and  verticiil  angles  to  all  visible  points  could  be 
measured.  This  method  was  followed  from  the  beginning  to  the  end 
of  my  trip.  The  work  was  .slow,  as  the  brush  had  to  be  cut  away  for 
nearly  <^very  sight  with  the  transit,  but  1  believe  this  method  gave  the 
most  rapid  progress  consistent  with  reliable  results.  The  map  was 
also  complete  each  day  up  to  the  point  where  work  was  stopped  for 
the  night. 

The  cJinyon  of  the  Chena  continues  for  about  5  miles  below  this 
foot  log,  widening  occasionally,  but  narrowing  down  again.  Near  the 
lower  end  of  this  canyon  1  found  a  second  place  where  a  bridge  could 
be  built.  Here  there  were  rocky  points  8  and  10  feet  above  the  water 
extending  into  the  stream,  making  the  span  about  -tS  feet.  I  did  not 
attempt  to  decide  which  was  the  better  of  the  two  sites,  as  so  much 
depended  upon  the  nature  of  the  ground  below  the  upper  sice  on  the 
farther  (north)  side  of  the  river,  and  this  ground  J  had  not  explored. 
The  main  point  Avas  that  sites  for  a  bridge  existed.  A  report  of  the 
work  of  my  party  and  a  description  of  the  bridge  sites  were  sent  in 
about  this  time  by  returjiinj;  prospectors.  Below  the  Chena  Canyon 
the  valley  widens  again,  and  the  stream  spreads  out  into  many  channels 
and  flows  over  another  gravel  flat  (109). 

It  was  now  the  3d  of  August.  The  stream  wa«  at  its  highest  and 
bringing  down  cakes  of  ice  from  the  glaciers  at  its  head.  The 
"Major's"  foot  log  had  been  washed  away.  One  of  my  horses  with  a 
200-pound  pack  had  fallen  into  the  stream  from  a  cut  bank  and  was 
carried  down  00  yards  and  nearly  drowned  before  he  could  l»e  rescued. 
I  began  to  l)e  worried  about  effecting  a  cro.ssing  safely  with  our  stock 
and  supplies.     Fortunately  the  weather  was  cooler  and  cloudy  for  two 


(     'i' 


68 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


days;  the  glaciers  i-ciised  to  molt  and  the  rivci-  began  to  fall  slowly.  I 
lay  ovei-  in  camp  one  day,  anxiously  watching  a  gauge  I  had  placed  in 
the  Htreani.  The  river  continued  to  lower,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
5th  of  August  I  made  preparations  to  (iross. 

My  plan  was  the  sftnie  as  that  followed  in  crossing  Ptarmigan  C^reek. 
The  horses  were  loaded  with  light  pat^ks  and  led  over.  On  the  return 
trip  for  another  load  we  got  into  (piicksand  near  the  shore  and  the 
horses  deliberately  lay  down  in  the  water.  The  wetting  was  far  from 
pleasant,  for  the  water  was  ice  cold,  and  I  could  not  dela}'  the  crossing 
long  enough  to  get  dry.  Several  trips  were  made  in  this  way.  On 
the  last  trip,  Paulson,  one  of  my  packers,  became  confused  by  the 
swirling  water  and  proceeded  down  stream  for  a  (juarter  of  a  mile, 
"  fording  the  river  lengthwise,"  as  he  afterwards  expressed  it.  I 
remained  at  this  new  camp  all  day  to  give  all  hands  an  opportunity  to 
dry  clothing  and  to  give  our  horses  a  rest. 

From  this  point  our  I'oute  lay  over  the  divide  Ijetween  the  Chena 
and  the  Kanatii  (109),  the  South  and  Noi'th  Forks,  respectivel}',  of  the 
Tiekell.  The  passage  of  this  divide  was  entirely  free  of  brush,  for  a 
recent  forest  fire,  still  smoldering  'n  the  fallen  logs  as  we  passed,  had 
cleaned  the  ground  of  this  obstru(^tion.  The  absence-  of  all  underbrush 
was  amply  compensated  for  by  the  charred  and  half -burned  spruce 
trees  laying  crossed  and  piled  up  on  all  sides.  Through  this  tjuigle  we 
had  to  cut  a  path  for  the  horses  with  small  hand  axes.  It  took  hours 
to  cover  the  3  miles  to  Stewart  Crcv^k  or  River,  the  last  tributary  of 
the  Chena  from  the  northwest.  I  venture  to  say  that  a  dirtier,  more 
tired  lot  of  men  were  not  to  be  found  in  all  Alaska  than  that  compos- 
ing my  party. 

We  remained  camped  on  Stewart  Creek  for  several  days  while  the 
section  was  mapped  down  to  the  junction  of  the  North  and  South 
Forks  of  the  Tiekell  and  well  up  the  North  Fork.  The  elevation  of 
our  camp  on  S'l'wart  Creek,  about  1,500  feet  above  sea  level,  was  the 
lowest  point  reached  since  leaving  Thompson  Pass.  On  Stewart 
Creek,  half  a  mile  below  our  camp,  was  a  camp  of  half  a  dozen  pros- 
pectors. Here  I  had  hoped  to  find  a  grindstone,  for  our  axes  needed 
resharpening  badly,  I  was  only  able  to  borrow  an  old  worn-out  tile, 
however,  which  proved  worse  than  useless. 

Our  route  was  now  up  the  Kanata  or  North  Fork  of  the  Tiekell. 
This  stream,  unlike  th(»  other's  we  had  passed,  is  not  a  glacier  stream. 
Many  of  its  branches  have  their  source  in  glaciers,  l)ut  most  of  its 
watei"  t.;omes  from  clear  mountain  streams  and  from  a  large  swamp 
near  its  head.  It  flows  through  a  valley  averaging  half  a  mile  in 
width,  and  its  general  course  is  from  north  to  south  on  the  arc  of  a 
rough  half  circh^  with  the  bend  toward  the  west.  The  stream  is  an 
extremely  crooked  one,  doubling  back  on  it>ielf  and  crossing  th<>  valley 
ba<;k  and  forth  luany  times.     Throughout  its  course  arc  deep  pools, 


COPPEB   BIVER    EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


69 


owly.  I 
)lac!ed  in 
\^  of  the 

n  ('reek, 
le  return 

and  the 

fiir  from 

crossing 

a^'.     On 

d  by  the 

a  mile, 

d   it.     I 

turuty  to 

le  Chena 
ly,  of  the 
ish,  for  a 
s.sed,  had 
derbrush 
d  .spruce 
tangle  we 
)ok  liours 
butary  of 
Aer,  more 
t  compos- 
while  the 
nd  South 
vation  of 
,  wa.s  the 
1  Stewart 
zen  pro.s- 
e.s  needed 
n-out  file, 

^  Tiekell. 
r  stream. 
u.st  of  its 
fe  swamp 
I  mile  in 
arc  of  a 
'am  is  an 
the  valley 
iep  pools, 


clcse  in  under  low-cut  banks,  while  on  the  other  shore  opposite  each 
pool  is  a  broad  ])rush-covered  brv  (66).  The  brush  on  both  sides  over- 
hangs far  out  into  the  stream.  Its  current  is  less  rapid  than  that  of 
the  other  streams  we  had  passed  and  its  channel  is  constant,  there 
being  no  evidence  of  any  recent  change. 

Steep  mountsiins  lie  on  either  side,  6,000  to  7,500  feet  high.  The 
valley  is  covered  throughout  with  fine  spruce  and  cottonwood  timber, 
with  a  dense  undergrowth  of  scrub  willow,  alder,  wild  curmnt,  and 
wild  rose.  Along  this  valley  the  timber  line  extends  nmch  higher  up 
the  mountains  than  it  does  nearer  the  coast,  reaching  an  elevation  of 
3,000  feet.  The  brush  disappears  at  an  elevation  of  about  4,000  feet. 
On  the  coast  about  Valdez  Bay  timber  is  rarely  found  at  an  elevation 
of  1,000  feet,  and  the  underbrush  disappears  at  1,800  to  2,000  feet.  In 
a  ge)iei"til  way,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  brush  line  is  about  1,000  feet 
above  timber. 

It  was  along  the  Kanata  that  we  made  our  slowest  progress.  It 
required  five  days  to  run  the  stadia  measurements  over  the  7  miles  from 
Stewart  Creek  to  Bowlder  Creek,  near  which  our  nextcamp  waslocated. 
On  one  day  we  tmveled  only  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  distance,  and 
throughout  the  trip  up  this  stream  we  had  to  cut  the  brush  before 
stadia  measurements  could  be  made.  Half  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of 
Bowlder  Creek  Avere  the  ruins  of  Tiekell  City,  which  was  for  a  short 
time  a  flourishing  settlement  of  shacks  and  tents  and  a  population  of 
forty  persons,  including  the  mayor.  A  forest  fire  had  swept  down  on 
the  settlement  before  my  arrival  and  had  left  but  two  tents  and  the 
"waterworks"  intact.  The  waterworks  consisted  of  a  canvas  bucket 
susj)ended  on  a  rope  across  the  river,  with  a  line  by  which  it  could  be 
hauled  in  and  out.     On  a  ])oar(l  nailed  to  a  tree  1  rtad  the  following: 

Po]).  Ixifore  fire  39. 
Pup.  after      "5. 

Smith,  Mayer. 

This  was  somewhat  am))iguous,  as  it  left  one  in  doubt  as  to  the  fate 
of  thirty-four  persons.  Added  to  these  statistics  was  a  caution  about 
carefully  'extinguishing  all  camp  fires.  The  ground  was  strewn  with 
cofJ'ee  and  tt>a  tins,  baking-powder  cans,  half-burned  ])eans  and  pease, 
a\es  and  tools  of  all  kinds,  gun  barrels  and  pistols  of  all  makes,  buck- 
ets, gold  pans,  valises,  charred  ch)thing,  etc. 

Along  the  banks  of  Bowlder  Creek  som(>  prospecting  was  })eingdone 
and  a  little  desultory  plac(>r  mining,  without  any  paying  results.  At 
this  place  we  succeeded  in  regi'inding  our  hand  axes  and  appropriated 
a  shovel  and  a  long-handled  axe,  which  1  Mt  would  be  useful  in  the 
futur*'. 

Fine  flour  gold  is  foimd  in  all  the  tributaries  of  the  Tiekell.  but  it 
is  too  flne  to  be  saved  by  ordinary  panning  or  rocking,  iuid  nowhere 
sufficiently  plentiful  to  pay  foi-  the  labor  of  working  a  claim.     The 


70 


COPPER   RIVER   EXFLORIN&   EXPEDITION. 


Tiekell  Valley  had  not  been  penetrated  by  prospectors  till  the  preced- 
ing fall  and  winter,  and  yet  the  banks  of  the  Kanata,  or  North  Fork,  and 
its  larger  branches  were  everywhere  staked  off  into  placer  claims,  each 
with  a  location  notice  written  on  the  stakes.  Most  of  these  claims 
were  abandoned;  at  least,  there  wei-e  no  evidences  of  any  assessment 
work  having  been  done. 

Beaver  dams  were  frequent  along  the  Kanatii.  but  all  the  beaver  had 
been  killed  off.  This  stream  ought  to  !>e  a  fine  trout  stream,  but  no 
trout  or  fish  of  any  kind  have  ever  been  found  there,  or,  in  fact,  in  any 
of  the  tributaries  of  the  Tiekell.  Long,  swift  rapids  below  the  main 
forks  of  the  river  prevent  the  fish  from  (doming  up  from  the  Copper 
River. 

From  Bowlder  Creek  my  route  was  over  the  Quartz  Creek  Divide 
and  down  that  stream  to  the  Tonsena  River.  This  was  not  to  be  the 
route  for  the  road,  but  I  desired  to  survey  the  Quartz  Crciek  Valley  and 
Tonsena  or  Archer  Lake,  which  lies  just  above  the  mouth  of  Quartz 
Creek,  neither  of  which  had  ever  before  been  mapped.  Leaving 
Bowlder  Creek,  we  climbed  nearly  straight  up  the  sides  of  Mount  Rice, 
the  avei'age  slope  of  which  is  40  degrees,  over  a  tmil  cut  the  month 
previous  by  a  party  under  Mr.  Rice  and  Inspector  Wayland.  After 
reaching  an  elevation  of  aliout  4,2()()  feet,  and  well  above  the  brush 
line,  we  turned  northward  and  proceeded  along  the  mountain  side  a 
distjince  of  3  miles  to  a  point  near  the  source  of  Quartz  Creek. 

I  had  hoped  to  push  down  on  the  other  side  to  some  spot  below  the 
timber  line  before  making  camp.  However,  the  men  and  horses  were 
so  tired  from  the  hard  climb,  and  the  hour  was  so  late,  that  I  stopped 
for  the  night.  Nothing  in  the  shape  of  firewood  was  to  })e  found 
except  some  stunted  willow  brush  18  inches  high,  and  green  at  that. 
Out  of  this  we  got  «'nough  fire  to  cook  bacon  and  boil  coffee,  and  then 
prepared  to  spend  a  cold  night. 

Shortly  after  starting  out  the  next  day  it  hegjin  to  rain,  with  such  a 
high  wind  that  we  were  forced  to  abandon  all  work  and  seek  shelter. 
We  camped  again  far  above  the  timber,  but  in  brush  large  enough  to 
make  a  respecbible  fire.  On  this  day,  the  l(!th  of  August,  snow  fell 
on  the  mountiiin  tops  and  down  to  a  S.OOO-foot  elevation.  We  were 
near  the  camp  of  a  Mr.  Amman  and  his  wife,  and  here  I  saw  the  first 
»igns  of  serious  gold  placer  mining.  They  had  as  yet  found  no  gold 
in  paying  {juantities,  but  both  were  ])atiently  digging  away  in  the 
hope  of  s(mie  day  reaching  1)ed  rock. 

Quartz  Creek  is  a  clear-water  stream,  about  12  miles  long,  flowing 
from  a  bog  near  the  summit  of  the  divide  in  a  northwesterly  direction 
and  emptying  into  the  Tonsena  River  just  Ixdow  th(»  lake  of  that  name. 
About  T)  miles  above  its  mouth  Its  two  main  brandies  empty  into  it, 
viz.  Rainbow  Creek  from  the  northeast  and  Bear  Creek  from  the 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


71 


jreced- 
)rk,  and 
IS,  each 

(claims 
vs.sinent 

\(*r  had 

Imt  no 

in  any 

lie  main 

Copper 


southwest.  At  the  mouth  of  Bear  Creek  is  a  mining  camp  of  eight  or 
ten  log  houses  and  the  post-office  of  Belcaro,  the  hitter  established  by 
Post-Office  Inspector  Wayland  late  in  June.  Mail  was  carried  back 
and  foilh  from  Valdez  once  a  month  during  the  summei"  l)y  one  of  the 
community,  who  received  for  his  services  Ij^l  from  each  person  sending 
or  receiving  a  letter.  Upper  Quartz  Creek  is  about  1  mile  wide  and 
very  boggy  in  summer,  the  soft,  wet  ground  extending  well  up  the 
mountainsides,  even  where  there  is  a  considerable  slop;',  the  thick  moss 
holding  the  water  like  a  sponge.  Half  way  down  the  soil  l)ecomes 
gravelly,  the  stream  is  more  confined,  and  a  short  distance  below  Bear 
Creek  flows  through  a  deep  canyon  for  a  mile  or  more.  Below  the 
canyon  the  valley  again  widens  and  gradually  merges  into  the  broad 
timbered  Hats  that  border  the  Tonsena. 

Along  Lower  Quartz  Creek  much  placer  mining  was  going  on.  The 
stream  in  many  places  was  turned  from  its  bed,  and  rockers  and  sluices 
were  frequently'  met,  all  being  worked.  One  claim  was  yielding  57 
cents  to  the  cubic  yard,  possibly  a  hydraulic  proposition,  but  hardly 
paying  the  expenses  of  hand  work.  Something  over  4  ounces  of  gold 
was  the  result  of  the  season's  work  up  to  the  20th  of  August. 

To  pais  the  canyon  of  Lower  Quartz  Creek  we  were  again  obliged  to 
make  a  steep  ascent  to  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet,  shortly  to  descend 
again  to  the  creek  bottom  below  the  canyon.  Arriving  at  Tonsena 
Lake  near  its  outlet  1  made  camp,  intending  to  remain  in  this  vicinity 
several  days,  while  I  surveyed  the  lake  and  the  river  above  and  below. 

Tonsena  or  Archer  Lake  lies  in  a  picturescjue  valley  (111),  the  moun- 
tains rising  abruptly  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  (>,500  or  7,000  feet 
on  all  sides  except  the  north  (112).  The  lake  is  irregular  in  shape,  with 
a  decided  bend  toward  the  west,  and  has  its  greatest  length  of  0  miles 
from  north  to  south,  with  an  extreme  width  of  al)out  2^  miles.  At  the 
south  end  of  the  lake  the  Tonsena  River  enipties  into  it  and  is  its  main 
supply  strean).  Several  other  smaller  streams  empty  into  the  lake 
from  ))oth  east  and  west,  and  all,  with  one  exceptioji,  Mankei-  Creek, 
are  glaciei'  streams.  Conse<iuently  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  crowded 
with  fine  glacial  silt.  The  ground  at  the  head  of  the  lake  is  swampy 
and  overgrf)wn  with  tall,  rank  grass,  which  is  a  favorite  hiding  place 
for  hundreds  of  ducks  of  all  kinds.  The  valley  above  the  lake  nar- 
rows considerably,  but  is  still  of  sufficient  width  for  s<mi(^  miles  to  form 
the  bod  for  many  smaller  lakes,  which  line  the  riveron  both  sides  (113). 

Toward  the  northern  end  the  mountjiins  gradually  recede  from  the 
lake  (112),  and  at  the  outlet  the  valley  is  about  15  miles  wide,  thickly 
grown  with  spruce  and  cottonwood.  and  with  a  dense  undergrowth. 
The  banks  of  the  river  below  the  lake  are  low  and  flat,  and  frequently 
swampy.  Below  the  lake  there  are  no  large  tributaries  of  the  i-iver. 
The  only  stream  of  consequence  coming  from  the  west  is  jVIankev 


i 


72 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


Creek,  which  empties  into  the  lake  a  mile  from  its  outlet.  On  the 
east  side  there  are  three  streams,  all  of  them  running  clear,  rerching 
the  Tonsena  River  between  the  lake  and  a  point  23  miles  Ijelow. 

At  the  time  of  my  arrival  there  were  three  mining  camps  about  the 
lake,  two  of  which  were  on  the  east  shore,  one  being  near  the  head  of 
the  lake  at  the  mouth  of  Hurtle  Creek,  and  another  near  the  outlet, 
called  Wesley  City.  My  camp  was  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  below 
this  metropolis.  On  the  west  side  of  the  bank,  at  the  very  mouth  of 
the  lake,  was  the  third  camp,  the  proprietor  of  the  latter  operating  a 
ferry  for  a  consideration.  The  Tonsena  River  and  all  its  branches 
abound  in  salmon,  and  all  the  streams,  ,lai"ge  and  small^  are  crowded 
with  the  finest  brook  trout,  irom  10  to  14  inches  in  length  and  beau- 
tifully marked.  In  the  timber  along  its  shores  grouse?  are  plentiful 
and  the  southern  end  is  a  great  bear  country.  Wild  red  currants  grow 
in  great  abundance  all  about  the  lake,  surpassing  in  size  and  flavor  any 
cultivated  berries  I  have  ever  eaten.  Manj"^  other  varieties  of  berries 
are  found  here — the  salmon  berry  and  i-aspberry,  blueberry,  black 
currant,  and  others;  but  none  are  so  plentiful  or  can  compare  in  flavor 
with  the  red  currant. 

To  facilitate  the  survey  of  the  Tonsena  Valley,  1  hired  a  small  fold- 
ing canvas  bt)at,  the  only  kind  of  craft  to  be  found.  During  the  first 
three  days  at  the  lake  the  wind  blew  very  strong  and  cold,  directly 
down  Kie  lake,  from  the  large  glaciers  near  the  source  of  the  Tonsena. 
The  waters  were  very  rough,  and  to  venture  out  in  this  small  boat  was 
foolhardy.  During  this  storm  we  crossed  the  river  and  worked  down- 
stream, following  wherever  possible  an  old  Indian  trail,  formerly  much 
used. 

While  camped  at  the  lake  1  sent  one  of  my  packers  and  two  horses 
to  the  Government  cache  on  the  Klutena  to  get  food  supplies.  My 
own  supplies  were  nearly  exhausted  and  this  was  the  last  chance  to 
replenish.  The  route  taken  was  across  the  lake,  swimming  the  horses; 
thence  northwest  up  Manker  Creek,  across  the  low  divide  and  down 
Grayling  Creek  to  its  mouth  on  the  Klutena,  a  distsmce  about  80  miles, 
where  the  cache  was  located  under  charge  of  a  soldier.  The  man 
returned  on  the  third  day  bringing  with  him  all  the  supplies  called  for 
and  a  fine  string  of  brook  trout  from  Manker  Creek.  The  foresight 
displa^^cd  by  purchasing  supplies  in  the  interior  eai'lier  in  the  season  was 
now  apparent  to  me.  Had  this  cache  of  provisions  not  been  there,  I 
would  have  been  obliged  to  send  two  men  back  to  station  No.  2  for 
more,  a  trip  that  would  have  taken  ten  days.  The  existtnice  of  these 
caches  at  different  points  in  the  inttM'ior  enabled  the  parties  sent  out  on 
various  missions  from  Valdez  to  start  with  a  smaller  initial  load,  and 
resulted  in  a  lesser  reduction  of  the  main  supply  train  operating 
between  Valdez  and  the  construction  camp. 

During  my  stiiy  at  Tonsena  Lake,  mail  was  l)rought  out  to  me  from 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


n 


black 


Valdoz,  the  courier  following  the  route  taken  by  my  horses.  Ordoi-s 
were  also  received  directing  me  to  proceed  back  to  the  Kanata  and  fol- 
low up  that  stream.  I  accordingly  left  the  lake  August  27  and  pro- 
ceeded back  up  Quartz  Creek,  stopping  long  enough  to  survey  Bear 
Creek  and  Rainbow  , Gulch.  From  the  Quartz  Creek  summit  I 
descended  to  the  Kanata  over  a  route  that  brought  us  to  that  stream 
some  4  miles  above  where  we  left  it  on  the  advance.  This  route  is 
known  to  prospectors  as  "The  Drop,"  and  has  a  very  steep  descent  of 
2,100  feet.  Here,  along  the  mountain  sides,  above  the  brush  and  in 
open  parks  in  its  midst,  grows  a  fine,  rich  grass.  Forty  tons  of  this 
grass  were  afterwards  cut  and  hauled  down  to  the  stream  to  where  a 
log  stable  whs  later  constructed  and  in  which  horses  of  the  expedition 
were  to  winter. 

1  camped  near  the  foot  of  "The  Drop"  at  an  abandoned  camp  of  the 
Manhattan  Mining  Company.  Their  tent  (about  the  size  of  an  army 
wall  tent)  was  standing,  but  in  a  dilapidated  condition.  Inside,  at  the 
end  opposite  the  entrance,  were  two  rude  bunks,  one  above  the  other. 
A  floor  was  laid  of  small  jack-spruce  trunks,  unsquared,  but  stripped 
of  bark,  and  a  small  sheet-iron  stove,  with  wooden  legs,  stood  in  the 
"  summer  kitchen,"  just  without  the  main  tent.  In  a  log  cache  near  by 
were  several  old  valises,  some  old  clothing,  and  a  sack  of  beans.  A 
well-worn  trail  led  from  the  tent  down  a  steep  cut  bank  to  a  beaver 
pond,  from  which  the  proprietors  evidently  obtained  their  water.  Indi- 
cations were  that  this  had  been  a  permanent  camp.  In  the  vicinity 
were  several  prospect  holes,  one  of  them  being  20  feet  deep  and  ubout 
12  feet  square,  I  describe  this  camp  for  the  reason  that  it  is  tyrical  of 
the  abandoned  Alaskan  prospectoi*'s  camp.  The  owners  hac  either 
left  the  country  or  were  at  work  in  the  Government  trail  gang,  earn- 
ing sufficient  money  to  pay  their  passage  back  to  the  States. 

Our  progress  up  the  Kanata  was  very  slow,  owing  to  the  thick  brush, 
our  measurements  averaging  but  little  more  than  a  mile  per  day.  I 
might  have  avoided  this  brush  by  traveling  high  up  on  the  mountains, 
but  <'onsidering  the  time  lost  in  getting  up  and  the  necessit}'  of  again 
descending  before  going  into  camp,  our  progress  would  have  l)een  but 
little  increased.  Besides,  the  actual  line  for  the  road  would  have  to 
be  explored  in  any  case,  and  this  line  closely  followed  the  west  bank  of 
the  stream. 

It  was  at  our  next  (!amp,  some  4  miles  above  "The  Drop,"  that 
we  experienced  a  severe  earthquake  shock.  This  was  on  Sunday,  Sep- 
tember ;^,  at  2.28  p.  Ml.  It  was  a  new  experience  and  not  a  pleasant 
one.  1  realized  at  once  what  was  occurring  and  carefullj'  noted  the 
duration  of  the  shock.  It  began  gently,  gradually  increasing  in  vio- 
lence until  it  became  impossible  to  stand  erect,  and  then  gradually 
decreased.  The  shock  lasted  one  minute  and  ten  seconds.  The  vibra- 
tions were  from  north  to  south   and  were  so  violent  that  one  could 


74 


COPPER  RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


I 


actually  see  the  ground  move.  Cook  pails  resting  on  the  ground  were 
upset  and  tall  spruce  trees  about  us  swayed  dangerously.  The  sensa- 
tion experienced  was  not  so  much  that  of  fear  as  of  utter  helplessness, 
accompanied  by  a  slight  nausea  resembling  seasickness.  After  the 
shaking  had  subsided  we  heard  eight  muffled  i-eports,  sounding  more 
like  distant  gunshots  than  any  other  sound,  occurring  at  intervals  of 
about  twelve  seconds.  At  7.30  p.  m.  there  was  another  light  earth- 
quake, lasting  three  seconds,  and  preceded  by  one  of  the  reports  above 
noted.  It  was  reported  to  me  some  days  later  that  Tonsena  Lake 
dropped  2  feet  after  the  shock,  but  this  I  had  reason  to  doubt.  On 
the  following  Sunday  there  were  six  more  earthquake  shocks,  com- 
mencing at  7.08  a.  m  and  occurring  at  irregular  intervals  up  to  11.45 
a.  m.  The  last  was  the  most  severe,  and  lasted  over  a  minute.  After 
the  last  one  we  again  heard  the  peculiar  reports  above  noted. 

Some  3i  miles  above  this  camp  Fall  Creek  empties  into  the 
Kanata,  and  just  below  its  mouth  is  a  mining  camp  of  four  tents.  It 
was  hero  that  we  crossed  the  Kanata  to  its  east  side.  At  this  settle- 
ment were  three  vegetable  gardens,  where  radishes,  turnips,  and  let- 
tuce had  been  successfully  raised  without  any  apparent  nursing  on  the 
part  of  the  owners.  As  it  was  now  late  in  the  season,  many  of  the 
radishes  had  gone  to  seed;  yet  on  the  5th  of  September  we  found 
enough  to  make  a  mess  for  my  party.  The  lettuce  was  in  prime  con- 
dition and  still  untouched  by  frost. 

Fall  Creek  and  Ernestine  Creek  ai'e  the  two  largest  branches  of  the 
Kanata,  and  both  enter  it  from  the  southeast,  their  mouths  about  2 
miles  apart,  and  both  have  their  sources  in  glaciers.  Gold  has  been 
found  in  paying  quantities  in  both  streams  and  (4aims  on  both  of  them 
were  being  worked  at  this  time. 

Above  the  mouth  of  Fall  Creek  the  valley  of  the  Kanata  widens 
somewhat,  the  timber  is  less  dense,  the  ground  becomes  softer  and 
finally  ^)oggy.  The  grass  grows  in  bunches,  the  roots  forming  large 
hummocks.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley  at  the  base  of  the 
mountains  is  a  long,  low,  gravelly  ridge,  rising  50  to  100  feet  above 
the  marshes.  It  is  alopg  this  ridge  that  the  road  should  be  built, 
crossing  the  Kanata  at  the  mining  camp  just  below  Fall  Creek.  To 
continue  the  road  up  the  west  side  above  Fall  Creek  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. The  stream  must  be  crossed  sooner  or  later,  and  here  is  a  good 
site  for  a  bridge.  I  believe  the  stream  could  be  forded  here  at  all  times, 
but  of  this  I  am  not  cei'tain,  as  at  the  time  of  my  crossing  the  river 
was  not  at  its  highest.  The  mountains  approach  close  to  the  river  on 
the  west  above  Fall  Creek.  The  bank  is  gravelly  and  from  time  to 
time  caves  in,  carrying  down  large  trees  and  bowlders.  To  build  the 
road  above  the  immediate  bank  of  the  stream  would  entail  a  consider- 
able ascent,  with  much  side-hill  grading  and  probably  rockwork. 


OOPPEB  EIVER   EXPLOBINO   EXPEDITION. 


u 


The  source  of  the  Kanata  is  a  swamp,  thickly  overgrown  with  dwarf 
willow  and  sparsely  timbered  with  small  but  tall  spruce  trees.  The 
elevation  of  this  point  is  about  2,300  feet  above  sea  level,  making  the 
ascent  from  the  forks  of  the  Tiekell,  a  distance  of  about  18  miles, 
only  800  feet.  The  divide  lietween  the  Kanata  and  the  South  Fork  of 
the  Tonsena  is  a  low  ridge,  imperceptible  from  any  distance  (114),  and 
would  be  difficult  to  locatti  without  actually  going  over  the  ground. 
Both  streams  have  their  source  in  swamps.  Two  men  in  a  few  hours 
could  dig  a  trench  connecting  }>oth  streams.  To  do  this  would  be  a 
public-spirited  act,  as  it  would  be  the  means  of  filling  the  Kanata  and 
the  Chena  and  their  branches  with  the  finest  kind  of  trout  and  salmon. 

Arriving  at  the  head  of  the  Kanata  a  courier  came  in  with  orders  for 
me  to  send  my  horses,  which  were  in  fine  condition,  back  to  the  con- 
struction camp  to  help  out  in  the  main  supply  train.  This  I  did  on 
the  7th  of  September.  To  go  on  without  the  horses  was  impossible, 
and  I  therefore  remained  at  this  camp  for  six  days,  when  four  new 
horses  arrived. 

In  the  meantime  the  valley  of  tje  Tonsena  South  Fork,  or  Mosquito 
Creek,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  was  thoroughly  explored  on  both 
sides.  This  valley  is  from  1  to  2  miles  wide,  and  bounded  by  steep 
mountains  (5,000  feet  high.  Its  direction  is  northwest,  and  throughout 
its  entire  length  t)f  about  20  miles  it  is  an  immense  swamp,  grown  with 
thick  dwarf  willows  6  to  8  feet  in  height,  with  patches  of  timber  here 
and  there.  To  cross  this  swamp  is  a  difficult  task,  as  1  found  to  my 
cost.  I  was  wet  from  head  to  foot,  and  the  legs  of  my  trousers  were  torn 
off  at  the  knees.  New,  strong  du(!k  trousers  might  have  withstood  the 
trial,  but  mine  were  far  from  strong  at  this  date.  I  believe  it  impos- 
sible to  get  a  horse  safely  across  this  bog. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  valley  is  an  old  Indian  or  Russian  foot  trail. 
It  had  evidently  })een  much  used  at  one  time,  as  there  were  numerous 
signs  of  brush  cutting  done  many  years  ago,  and  the  trail  for  long 
distances  was  worn  down  a  foot  or  more  below  the  natural  surface. 
This  trail  was  followed  for  3  miles,  when  it  turned  to  the  right  and 
evidently  crossed  the  swamp.  However,  no  further  trace  of  it  could 
be  found  on  either  side. 

About  this  time  a  man  named  Tjosvig,  who  had  been  in  this  rogion 
in  the  preceding  fall,  reported  to  me  as  a  packer  and  cook  in  place  of 
one  whom  I  had  dischai'ged.  He  stated  that  a  pass  existed  through 
the  divide,  between  this  valley  and  Bernard  Creek,  the  next  stream 
below,  a  pass  which,  if  practicable,  would  shorten  the  distance  to  the 
Tonsena  some  3  miles,  and  besides,  by  avoiding  the  trend  to  the  north- 
west of  the  South  Fork,  give  a  more  direct  route  to  the  road.  My  first 
exploration  of  this  pass,  which  I  named  Kimball  Pass  (115,  116),  led 
me  to  the  conclusion  (and  I  must  admit  it  a  hasty  one)  that  this  route 
was  not  feasible,  because  of  the  additional  ascent  of  1,600  feet. 


'      5 


f 


!l  Ml. 


76 


COPPER   RIVKR    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


J  decided  to  run  tht^  line  down  the  South  Fork  of  the  TonHenu  when 
new  horses  arrived,  and  instru<'tions  were  received  to  push  <>n  as  rap 
id'y  as  possilde  to  the  Tonsena  River,  clearing  the  trail  of  brush  as  we 
went.  Arrivinjif  at  the  Tonsena  1  was  to  select  a  site  for  a  storehouse 
and  cabin  and  meet  parties  coming  from  Tonsena  Lake  who  were  to 
build  it. 

To  make  a  proper  beginning  for  this  trail  cutting  it  was  necessary 
to  go  back  to  the  crossing  of  Ernestine  Ci'eek,  half  a  mile  in  the  rear. 
Onl)'  one  long-handled  ax  was  with  my  party,  and  this  had  been  picked 
up  on  the  way.  The  one  lost  by  Mr.  Worthington  in  the  glacier 
stream  shortly  after  the  start  was  later  replaced  by  a  small  hand  ax, 
picked  up  en  route,  weighing  1  pound,  and  hardly  more  efl-H-tive  than 
a  toy.  Three  other  hand  axes  were  with  my  outfit,  t"hus  making  one 
ax.  large  or  small,  for  each  member  of  my  partj',  there  Iwing  five  of 
Us  .  I  this  time.  The  ground  had  already  been  thoroughly  looked  over 
for  5  miles  in  advance  before  the  order  to  clear  trail  was  received,  and 
we  therefore  commenced  at  once. 

AlK)ut  1  mile  per  day  was  our  average  progress.  Eight  miles 
had  been  cleared  when  the  groiuid  became  soft  and  boggy,  although 
the  line  was  some  300  feet  above  the  valley  bottom.  The  outlook 
ahead  was  most  discouraging,  there  teing  still  s(mie  12  miles  more 
of  thi,«  work  l)efore  reaching  the  Tonsena,  and  [  decided  to  once  more 
make  an  examination  of  Kimball  Pass.  To  do  this  thoroughly  I 
believed  would  require  a  long  day's  work.  I  took  with  me  2  men,  car- 
rying 1  meal  each,  the  camera,  shotgun,  and  surveying  outfit.  We 
started  at  4.30  a.  m.  and  traveled  continuously  until  (i.30  p.  m.,  hav- 
ing made  a  ilnuiit  through  Kimball  Pass,  down  Bernard  Creek  a  long 
dii^tance,  and  then  again  through  the  divide  over  a  saddle  known  as 
Big  Stone  Pass,  5,600  feet  high,  and  thence  along  the  mountain  side 
back  to  our  camp,  a  total  distiince  of  13  miles,  one-half  of  whic:h  was 
through  thick  alder  and  willow  brush  (117).  The  trip  had  not  ])een  in 
vain,  for  I  learned  that  the  proper  and  onl}'^  route  for  the  road  was 
through  Kimball  Pa.ss,  provided  a  suitiible  gi-ade  could  be  obtained  on 
the  ascent  to  its  sumnit.  |5 

M}'  next  worlc  was  to  dCTierminb  this  point.  The  day  following  I 
started  at  the  summit  of  this  pass  and  blazed  a  line  through  the  brush, 
gradually  descending  by  a  grade  of  about  1  in  10  to  the  trail  which  we 
had  already  cleared,  striking  it  about  2  miles  from  Ernestine  Creek. 

Coming  back  to  our  camp,  1  there  met  Messrs.  (irogg  and  Johnson, 
who  had  been  sent  down  from  Tonsena  Lake  to  build  the  cabin.  These 
men  had  been  hunting  my  camp  for  the  past  two  days  and  were  utterly 
out  of  food.  They  reported  that  a  messenger  had  been  sent  out  with 
orders  for  me,  and  that  he  had  started  down  the  Tonsena  with  them 
on  their  rafts,  but  soon  left  them,  intending  to  go  back  up  Quartz 
Creek,  down  "The  Drop,"  and  thence  up  the  Kanata  to  my  camp  by 


COPPER    R1V£K   EXPLUKIJSG    KXPEDITION. 


77 


tho  rout*'  I  hml  followed,  loaviiij^  his  jfuii,  boddinj;,  imd  food  with 
tlu'in.     Hi>,  had  not  roarhod  iiu%  and  wan  now  a  week  oviM'duo. 

Thti  rontii  down  the  South  P\>rk  of  tho  TonniMui,  as  I  uxplainod  to 
the  calnn  huildi^rs,  whh  not  pmctinihU',  and  consequently  a  (irovern- 
nient  eahin  at  the  mouth  of  that  stream  would  he  useless.  A  delay 
would  l>e  eauHed  hy  chanjjfinjf  the  route  to  the  next  valley,  makinjr 
oui"  arrival  at  thts  Tonsena  so  late  in  the  season  as  to  render  the  com- 
])letion  of  a  eahin  extremely  doubtful.  Messrs.  ^lohnson  and  (Jrojjy 
had  decided  to  jfivo  up  the  contract,  l)ut  I  persuaded  them  to  make 
one  more  effort.  I  accordingly  agreed  to  meet  them  at  the  mouth  of 
Hernard  C^reek  on  the  Friday  following,  promising  them  thi^  use  of  my 
hors««s  to  get  their  stuff  down  to  that  |)oint.  Early  the  following 
morning  they  departed,  and  my  own  party  set  out  for  Big  Stone  Pass, 
this  being  the  shortest  route  to  Bernard  Cr(>ek  and  lying  far  above 
the  l)rush  lin«>.  I  determined  to  push  on  as  far  as  possilile  down  Ber- 
nard C'reek,  abandoning  uU  survey  work,  in  order  to  reach  the  Tonsinu 
on  the  date  agreed. 

By  3  p.  m.  we  had  made  lO  miles,  and  shortly  after  got  into  the  l)rush 
so  thick  that  (uir  hoi-ses  could  go  no  fai'th(M".  Here  I  made  camp. 
The  next  day  all  four  of  us  stjirted  for  the  'ionsena,  turning  the  horses 
loose  »;t  the  camp  and  carrying  only  the  shotgun,  a  small  package  of 
pea-soup  iM)wder,  and  a  half-gallon  kettle.  The  cut  banks  of  the  Ton- 
sena appeared  about  5  miles  distant,  but  turned  out  to  be  somewhat 
more  t  an  }>  miles  away.  This  was  through  the  densest  brush  and  for 
th(^  last  -i  miles  over  an  enormous  windfall  of  spruce  and  cottonwood 
timber.  It  was  3.30  in  the  afternoon  when  we  arrived  at  the  river. 
There  were  no  signs  of  the  cabin  builders.  I  afterwards  learned  that 
they  did  not  reach  there  until  the  following  day. 

1  seUn^ted  the  cabin  site  on  dry  ground  near  the  river  in  a  grove 
of  the  largest,  tallest  spruce  trees.  Near  the  site  was  plenty  of  good 
moss  with  which  to  chink  the  logs  and  considerable  good  grass,  1 
then  hung  my  handkerchief  on  a  tree  overhanging  far  over  the  stream, 
and  set  up  a  post  on  a  small  giavel  bar  near  by  to  attract  the  attention 
of  the  builders  as  they  came  down  the  river.  On  this  post  I  marked 
the  distance  and  direction  of  the  cabin  site.  At  the  latter  piace  I 
blaz*^  d  a  large  spruce  tree  all  around  and  marked  with  a  lumberman's 
peuvu  thereon  in  a  manner  that  could  hardly  fail  to  attract  atten- 
tion of  anyone  in  the  vicinity.  In  this  tree  I  stuck  a  pencil  note, 
stating  that  I  could  not  get  my  horses  through  in  time  to  assist  in 
getting  the  builders'  supplies  to  the  spot  before  the  season  closed,  and 
also  gave  the  location  of  my  camp  up  Bernard  Creek. 

Bernard  Creek  differs  from  the  South  Fork  of  the  Tonsena  in  haviiig 
its  source  in  a  small  lake  (116)  on  the  summit  of  Kimball  Pass  at  an 
elevation  of  4,00()  feet  and  being  more  confined  in  its  course.  It  is 
about  20  miles  long  and  flows  through  a  narrow  valley  with  a  gravelly 


78 


COl'l'ER   r.lVKB   EXFLOKING   EXl'EDlTloN. 


V 


8oll,  thickly  grown  with  a  tough  win-  lunish.  Itn  lower  half  is  tx'twcen 
high-cut  huiilcH,  broken  at  frequent  intervals  l»y  (ie«'|)  ravines.  Along 
itH  bunks  and  along  the  Tonseiui  near  its  mouth  grow  the  largest  of 
Hpruee  trees,  KX)  feet  or  more  high  and  many  measuring  H  feet  and 
over  in  diameter  it  the  base.  The  Tonsina  Valley  about  the  mouth  of 
lii'rnard  Creek  is  of  a  similar  character,  but  nmch  wider  with  the  cut 
banks  averaging  250  feet  in  height. 

Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Bernard  C-reek  another  stream,  known 
as  Trout  Creek,  empties  into  the  Tonsena,  its  valley  being  like  that  of 
Iternard  Creek.  At  this  point  is  a  g(H)d  bridge  site,  and  the  rout*'  up 
Trout  Creek  is  in  such  a  direction  as  to  reach  the  Klutena  Itiveratthe 
point  selected  for  crossing,  sonui  K  or  10  miles  above  its  mouth.  The 
last  mountains  on  the  Coast  llauige  lie  on  the  east  side/)f  Trout  Creek 
and  separate  it  from  the  Copper  River  Valley.  I  do  not  think  this 
rout*":  .or  the  military  road  could  be  Improved  ujwn.  Tht'  distance  is 
the  shortest  to  the  crossing  of  the  Tonsena.  The  ground  is  good  all 
the  way  from  the  head  of  the  Kanata;  the  grades  are  light  and  the  line 
up  Trout  Cruek  to  the  Tonsena  is  over  a  low  saddle  with  very  light 
grades. 

To  get  bacK  to  my  camp  In'forc  5  o'docK,  when  darkness  set  in,  was 
now  impossible.  We  made  a  start,  however,  and  succeeded  in  umkiiig 
about  3  miles  to  a  small  stream  before  darkiu'ss  overtook  us.  Here 
we  prepared  to  spend  a  disagreeable  night.  We  had  eat*Mi  nothing 
except  half  a  cup  of  pea  soup  apiece  since  breakfast.  All  day  we  had 
seen  but  one  grouse  and  this  had  been  shot.  This  one  small  bird, 
without  pepper  or  salt,  was  to  make  a  meal  for  four  hungry  men. 
While  there  was  still  a  little  twilight  left  we  all  engaged  in  hauling 
dry  wood  to  our  fire  to  last  us  through  the  night.  We  had  no  bed- 
ding nor  coats  with  us,  and  the  nights  were  now  quite  cold,  ice  form- 
ing every  night  on  the  streams.  I  divided  the  night  into  four  watches 
of  two  and  a  quarter  hours  each,  the  watcher's  duty  being  only  to  keep 
the  tires  burning  briskly.  During  the  two  middle  watches  it  rained 
steadily,  thus  adding  more  to  the  discomfort  of  the  situation.  At  the 
first  signs  of  daylight  we  prepared  to  start,  and  after  carefully  extin- 
guishing the  tire,  set  out  on  the  return  trip  through  the  brush  to  our 
camp.  The  brush  was  dripping  wet  and  our  clothing  soon  became 
satumted.  As  we  got  higher  up  the  brush  was  frozen  and  there  was 
a  heavy  frost  on  the  ground  und,  tinally,  snow.  Mr.  Worthington, 
an  older  man  than  the  rest,  beca  lie  w((ak  from  the  lack  of  food  and  the 
exertion  of  working  through  the  brush  and  was  obliged  to  rest  every 
few  hundred  yards.  At  each  sixjp  we  all  eagerly  ate  the  frozen  moss 
berries.  We  were  hours  getting  back  to  camp  and,  once  there,  spent 
the  remainder  of  the  day  eating. 

During  the  afternoon  it  began  snowing  again,  and  at  dark  there  was 
4  inches  of  snow  on  the  ground.  This  convinct^d  me  that  it  was 
time  for  us  to  take  the  trail  back  to  Valdez,  and  I  decided  to  start  the 


OOIM'ER   RIVKP    KXPLORINO    EXPKDITUJN. 


79 


following  (lay.     Tlw  ^nisH  wum  alivtuly  poor  and  Hnirc«'.     No  hooiht 

(iocH  tlit>  f  roHt  touch  it  than  it  hocoincN  an  UMoleHN  for  fom^c  nn  ho  imich 

.straw.     ,Iu,st  as  w^^  woi    turning;  in  for  the  night  wi\  hoard  thn>o  sliotw 

Hrc'd  an  a  si^rnal.     Thinkiiig  thov  cunio,  from  Honu'ono  who  had  lost  his 

iMuirinjfs,  I  had  thcni  answmt'd.     Shortly  afterwards  wo  hnii'd  shoutiiijf, 

and  in  a  few  niinutos  Dr.  Trow,  tho  snr}(oon  of  tho  oxpodition,  came 

into  canlp  followed  by  the  courier  who  had  been  seeking  us  so  long. 

They  lK)th  brought  me  orders,  the  one  verbal,  the  other  written,  to 

turn  buck  and  tuk(^  charge  of  the  construction  camp,  and  to  continue 

that  work  as  long  as  the  weather  pei'initted,  but  in  any  cast'  not  latter 

than  the  I5th  of  0(^tober.     It  was  now  the  3(»th  of  September,  and,  as 

[above  stat«(d,  I  had  already  decided  to  take  the  Vtack  tniil  the  following 

[day.     Dr.  Trew  and  the  messenger  were  lioth  in  a  sad  plight  and  very 

cold.     They  had  come  17  miles  that  day  from  the  mining  camp  Ixdow 

Fall  Creek  on  the  Kanata,  over  Big  Ston«'  Pass  and  down  Hernard  Crei^k 

|t<>  our  camp.     The  shoes  of  Mr.    Rothkranz,  the  messenger,  were 

worn  tlwough  to  his  Imre  feet  and  his  canvas  trousers  torn  to  a  fringe 

[below  the  knees.     On  the  sunmiit  of  the  pass  and  all  the  way  down 

[the  north  side  they  encountei'od  nmt'h  snow.     During  the  day  this  had 

luoaked  their  foot  wear  and  clothing,  and  as  the  air  became  colder  on  the 

■approach  of  night  their  trousers  and  shoes  were  frozen  stiff.     Neither 

[had  mittens  or  gloves.     It  was  a  fortunate  thing  for  them  that  they 

jtired  their  signal  shots  when  they  did,  otherwise  tht\v  would  not  have 

[found  my  camp.     In  the  thick  brush  our  camp  fire  could  onJy  l)e  seen 

la  short  distance,  and  the  chances  of  their  coming  directly  to  it  were 

islim  indeed.  ^ 

The  next  day,  October  1,  dawned  bright  and  dear,  and  I  regretted 
Jthat  I  had  to  go  back.     However,  to  have  failed  to  heed  the  warning 
[of  the  snow  would  have  been  foolish.     For  the  safety  of  the  men  and 
[supplies  1  had  no  apprehension ;  the  men  could  travel  anywhei-e,  even 
with  the  snow  lying  deep;  the  valuable  surveying  instruments  and 
[camera  could  have  been  safely  cached,  and  what  provisions,  photo- 
graphs, und  notes  I  had  could  have  been  carried  by  all  hands,  as  there 
were  now  six  of  us.     With  the  horses,  however,  it  was  ditt'er«Mit.     The 
grass  was  poor  and  constantly  becoming  worse,  while  the  work  of  the 
animals  would  increase  with  the  depth  of  snow,  and  as  their  strength 
failed  they  would  be  able  to  carrj-^  less  and  less.     Had  I  pushed  on  ten 
days  longer  not  a  horse  would  have  gotten  back.     It  was  snowing 
every  day  on  the  summits  and  high  passes,  and  it  was  the  passage  of 
these  divid.-'s  that  would  wear  the  horses.     In  the  valleys  there  was 
no  {!ause  io.    apprehension,  except  the  poor  quality  of  the  remaining 
grass. 

As  we  leared  Big  Stone  Pass  I  climbed  to  a  low  summit  near  by  to 
get  photographs  of  the  Copper  River  Valley.  It  was  a  most  remark- 
able day  for  this  region,  so  said  Cris,  my  cook,  who  had  done  much 


80 


COPI'KR    KIVKR    EXI'LOBINO    EXPEDITION. 


'% 


pro.s|MH'tinf;  in  this  it^jfion  the  preceding  fall.  The  atniosphere  was 
iiiusuall.v  clear  and  the  high  sncw-covered  mountains  of  the  Alaskan 
liange,  :iO0  miles  to  the  north,  were  clear-cut  against  a  deep-blue  sky. 
To  the  east  the  Mount  Wrangi^ll  group  stood  out  clear  from  base  to 
.'^juiiniit.  Mounts  Driuii,  Tillmaii,  and  Sanford  had  not  a  cloud  al)out 
them,  a  most  unusual  condition,  while  the  puti's  of  white,  steam-lik< 
smoke  from  the  volcano  ^Vrangell  were  sharply  outlined  against  the 
sky.  Here  was  the  photographic  opportunity  of  a  lifetime  and  I 
exposed  many  plates.  All  of  thmi,  foi  reasons  that  I  explain  in  my 
photographic  report,  were  utter  faihu'es. 

The  trip  l)ack  to  the  construction  camp  was  oA'^er  the  route  followed 
on  the  advance  and  was  uneventful. 

The  third  day  I  intended  to  lay  over  an<l  give  the  horses  a  good  rest 
so  as  to  make  the  remaining  distunce  of  16  miles  in  one  day.  It 
snowed  hard  all  the  preceding  night,  however,  and  I  thought  best  not 
to  delay.  We  nevertheless  made  the  entire  distiince  on  this  third  day. 
The  .snow  as  we  neai'ed  the  main  camp  became  less  and  less. 

Arriving  at  the  camp,  which  was  near  the  al)ove-mentioned  Man- 
hattan Mining  Co:npany's  tents,  I  took  charge  of  the  camp  and  the 
work.  A  large  log  stiible  was  undeir  construction  and  about  half 
completed,  capable  of  holding  fourtesen  hoi'ses.  Near  by  was  to  be 
built  a  cabin  for  the  two  men  who  were  bi  care  for  the  horses.  This 
stable  was  about  2^  miles  in  advance  of  the  camp  tuid  near  the  river — 
the  Kanata.  Forty  tons  of  hay  had  been  cut  hUrh  upon  the  mountam 
sides  and  was  to  be  hauled  down  to  this  stable  when  there  was  sufficient 
snow  to  permit  the  use  of  sleds. 

The  ffx)d  supply  at  the  construction  camp  was  low,  there  being  only 
enough  for  live  days  more.  The  stable  builders  were  also  about  out 
of  food  and  threatened  to  quit  work,  Thi;  coiiipletion  of  this  stable 
and  cabin  was  of  the  utmost  iniportance  to  the  success  of  the  work 
early  in  the  following  spring,  and  I  made  every  effort  to  induce  the 
workmen  to  continue.  T  sent  th(>m  one-half  th(^  provisions  at  the 
camp,  enough  to  last  them  two  weeks.  I  thus  had  less  than  three 
days'  supply  on  hand  for  forty-odd  men  at  the  main  camp.  The 
supph'  train  was  expected  daily,  but  did  not  arrive.  I  began  to  fear 
trouble  in  crossing  Thompson  Pass,  and  on  the  ath  of  October  ordered 
the  retui'n  of  the  personnel  to  Valdez.  Ther(>  wer(^  seven  horses  at 
the  camp,  which,  with  th<'  four  horses  I  had  ))rouglit  in.  made  eleven 
%,  animals  to  carry  the  )H>dding,  clothing,  food,  and  cooking  outfit  for 
forty-five  men.  All  the  tents,  tools,  and  cooking  utensils.  excepJ^^  such 
of  the  latter  as  were  necessary  for  the  simplest  meals  on  the  rosid  back, 

1  had  packed  up  and  carried  to  the  stable  and  stored  in  the  iuft.     By 

2  p.  ni.  tdl  the  remaining  stufl'  was  packed  up  and  a  start  made. 
Just  at  tli»'  moment  of   starting  the  supply  train  of   twenty-five 


COPPER    RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


81 


spher«»  was 

ic  Aliiskuii 

l)-l)liu'  sky. 

oin  base  to 

ioud  aJ)()ut 

stoaiii-likf 

against  the 

time  and  I 

)lain  in  my 

ite  followed 

a  good  rest 
rie  day.  It 
jht  best  not 
s  third  day. 

ioned  Alan- 
np  and  the 

about  half 
y  was  to  l>e 
n'ses.     This 

the,  river — 
le  niountiiin 
?as  sufficient 

e  being  only 
^o  about  out 
'  this  stable 
of  the  work 
)  induce  the 
sions  at  the 

than  three 
camp.  The 
gati  to  fear 
)bcr  ordered 
11  iiorses  at 
made  eleven 
ig  outfit  for 
cxce])^  such 
e  road  back, 
le  loft.  By 
mach!. 

twentv-Hve 


horses  oxime  in.     This  train  1  ordered  back,  iirst  sending  two  horses  to 
the  camp  of  the  stable  builders  with  more  food. 

We  camped  that  night  in  the  snow  without  tents,  each  man  choosing 
hit)  own  bed  place.     Dr.  Trew,  at  his  own  request,  I  sent  on  to  Vajdez, 
to  take  in  word  of  our  coming.     It  snowed  hard  during  the  night  and  ' 
the  horses  got  but  little  food. 

Th(  Mext  day's  trip  was  a  long  one  of  16  miles  to  the  relief  cabin  on 
theCliena,  situated  a  mile  })elow  the  mouth  of  the  canyon.  The  work- 
men walked  ahead  to  break  a  trail  through  the  snow  for  the  horses. 
Everything  depended  upon  saving  the  horses  from  us»>less  exertion  till 
W';  reached  the  storehouse  at  stsition  No.  8.  Near  the  vlief  cabin  was 
the  camp  of  some  eight  men.  who  were  constructing  the  cabin.  This 
cabin  was  completed  on  the  afternoon  of  my  arrival.  All  the  tentage, 
camp  oijuipage,  and  tools  were  cavefuUy  stored  in  the  loft  of  the  cabin, 
and  I  had  signboards  placed  at  the  branch  trails  leading  from  the  main 
road  to  the  cabin.  The  following  day  the  pack  loads  were  rearranged 
to  accommodate  the  bedding  and  clothing  of  the  eight  extra  men.  Many 
of  the  men  carried  packs  on  their  l)acks.  VV^e  crossed  the  Stewart 
Creek  Bridge  and  the  h)ng  bridge  over  the  Chena  and  followed  up  that 
stream  to  a  i)oint  2  miles  above  station  3,  the  nearct  pcint  at  which 
grass  for  the  horses  could  f)e  found. 

At  station  8  I  left  with  the  soldier  storekeeper  all  the  surplus  food 
brought  in  })y  the  last  supply  train,  so  that  the  hor.ses  might  all  have 
light  loads  for  the  passage  of  Tiiompsoii  Pass.  At  stiition  No.  3  a 
destitute  prospector  applied  t(/  me  for  permission  to  ride,  he  having 
both  knees  sprained  and  unable  to  walk  any  distance.  He  had  done 
favors  for  me  while  I  wast-amped  at  TonstMia  Lake,  and  I  graiited  him 
permission.  Mr.  Worthingto  '  kvas  taken  ill  the  foHowing  morning 
and  also  had  *'■  ride.  Two  horses  were  unable  to  carry  pa<'ks  from 
weakness.  Cn  the  ai^cent  (118)  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  another 
horse  played  'Mt  and  jiis  load  was  distribut«>d  among  the  rest.  On 
and  near  the  simimit  there  were  al)out  3o  inches  of  snow.  I  had 
a  double  force  of  me,i  with  the  train  U>  iwlp  the  horses  through  che 
dri**^  ,  >vhile  nM>**t  of  the  remaining  men  ««'nt  on  ahead  to  break  trail 
for  ihe  train, »  work  that  they  willingly  perforin>ftd,  realizing  as  they  did 
the  loss  of  their  bedding  and  clothing  if  the  hor>M^s  played  out.  (luns 
and  auicli  clothing  were  carried  by  hand.  Tht  summit  was  passed 
without  furthei-  trouble.  The  view  of  Dutch  Flat  from  the  siunmit 
was  most  surprising.  For  ItMi  miles  on  the  north  side  1  had  come 
through  snow  from  H  to  30  inches  in  depth,  while  in  Dutch  Valley  there 
was  no  snow  whatever,  and  niuch  of  the  brush  and  cottonwood  timln'r 
was  still  green  and  untouched  by  frost.  The  snow  oii  the  divide 
became  less  and  less  deep,  and  disappeared  entirely  at  about  the  M,00(»- 
foot  elevation.  » 

S.  Doc.  306 6 


i 


l( 


82  COPPER    RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION, 

A  .stop  for  the  nijrht  was  made  near  the  camp  of  Mr.  (lillette  (104), 
the  railroad  ongiiiecr  of  the  expedition.  A  short  march  of  8  miles 
was  made  next  day  to  station  No.  2,  and  the  following  day,  October 
10,  the  train  reached  Valdej;  without  mishap. 

8UMMARY  OF  CONSTRUCTION  WORK. 

Total  length  of  road—  ■  Miles. 

For  pack  horses 1 ft3 

In  excavation ;15 

Cleared  and  gruhbed 07 

Cleared  only 12 

Twenty -six  bridges  were  constructed,  exclusive  of  small  culverts, 
with  a  total  length  of  856  feet.  The  largest  l)ridge  iy  121  feet  long. 
These  ])ridges  have  forty  spans,  the  longest  .span  of  10  feet  being  in 
the  bridge  over  the  Chena  Canyon.  Tv^  >  bridges  have  four  spans  each, 
and  three  oth(n\s  have  two  spans  each.  '  ^hteen  spans  measure  25  feet 
or  over.  Nine  log  cribs  were  constructed.  Twentj'-one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  twenty-four  feet  of  logs  were  u.sed  in  stringers  and  sills. 
These  bridges  have  a  width  of  9  feet. 

The  width  of  road  in  excavation  varies  from  a  5-foot  to  a  l(»-foot 
roadbed,  the  narrowest  part  being  in  Keystone  Canyon. 

The  width  of  clearing  and  grubbing  varies  from  (>  feet  to  35  feet, 
find  averages  about  25  feet.  The  narrowest  part,  viz,  the  t)-foot  width, 
is  in  the  advance  12  miles,  and  was  made  only  of  sufficient  width  to 
permit  passage  of  pack  horses. 

COM  I'A  RATI VE  COST  OF  CONSTRUCTION  AT   PRICES   COMMON   THROUGHOUT 

THE   UNITED   STATES. 

5,000  cubic  vardH  Holid  rock,  at  $1 $5, 000 

7,000  cubic  yardh  loose  rock,  at  40  cents '2,  80(* 

8,000  cubic  yards  i)ick  and  shovel  work,  at  25  cents 2, 000 

600  cubic  yards  retaining  wall,  at  $3 1,  800 

120  cubic  y;irds  bridge  cribs,  at  $2 240 

85fi  ftHd  (linear)  bridging,  at  $3 2,  f>«« 

5  miles  rock  bulhujt,  at  ^150 '. 7.')0 

200  acrcH  clearing  and  gru!.)bing,  at  $50 10,  000 

Total  cost  in  Unitwl  States 25, 158 

The  :iv«'ragc  of  this  cla-  -  of  work  along  the  coast  rcgiMi  of  AlHska  is 
ab(  ut  75  per  cent  greater  than  in  the  United  StuU'M,  Conunon  lal)orcrs 
on  the  White  Pass  and  Yukon  llaili'rtul  received  $/!.50  p<'r  ''ay. 

Along  the  Yukon  Ri\er  prices  paid  during  the  seuf^on  of  1899  were 
a^  follows:  (\)nim<»n  labor.  H5  cents  per  hour;  skilled  labor,  ^10  per 
day;  foreuiau  of  party,  $1;">  per  day. 


COI'PKK    RIVER    EXI'LOKING    EXPEDITION. 


83 


ette  (104), 
)f  8  miles 
',  October 


Miles. 

as 

35 

67 

12 

culverts, 
feet  long, 
t  being  in 
epulis  each, 
lire  55  feet 
•u^jul  two 
s  aii'i  -.ills, 

o  II  iO-foot 

to  36  feet, 
foot  width, 
at  width  to 


IROUGIIOUT 


J!5,000 

'2,m^ 

2, 000 

1,800 

240 

2, 5«K 

750 

10,000 

25,158 

f  A  l»ska  is 
)n  laborers 
'av. 

1899  were 
>r,  $10  per 


REMARKS  AND  RECOMMENDATIONS. 

In  the  al)()ve  narrative  of  the  work  of  the  advance  location  party  for 
the  Trans-Alaskan  Military  Road  T  have  omitted  many  instuners  whicii 
occurred  of  a  humorous  or  provoking  nature,  as  being  unessential  to 
the  official  topographical  description  of  the  terraine  and  the  climatic 
conditions  of  this  portion  of  Alaska.  Such  adventures  and  mishaps 
as  I  have  recorded  ha\'e  a  certain  descriptive  value — my  only  excuse 
for  inserting  them  in  an  official  report. 

If  it  is  contemplated  to  resume  road  construction  and  exploration 
during  the  s<'ason  of  1900,  with  a  view  to  obtiiining  I'esults  commen- 
surate with  expenditures,  it  is  imperative  that  the  work  be  begun  much 
earlier  in  the  spring  than  has  been  the  case  on  previous  expeditions. 

In  order  to  begin  location  work  at  the  earliest  possible  time,  viz,  the 
date  of  disappeanmce  of  the  snow,  it  is  necessary  that  ])efore  that  time 
supplies  be  cached  at  the  various  sul)stations  along  the  road.  Not  only 
must  food  supplies  be  on  hand,  but  at  the  present  advance  end  of  the 
road  nuist  also  Im^  the  tentage,  <'amp  equipage,  cooking  outfit,  etc., 
required  for  a  working  party  of  say  forty-tive  men,  all  told.  Of  the 
material  of  this  description  left  over  from  last  season's  work,  90  per 
cent  was  condemned  by  me  as  worn-out  and  unserviceable.  The  food 
supplies  now  at  station  No.  3  and  beyond  are  no  more  than  necessary 
for  the  wintei-'s  consumption  by  the  various  station  keepers.  In  order 
to  get  such  supplies  to  the  substations  in  time,  I'esort  must  be  had  to 
dog  sleds,  say  five  dogs  to  a  shnl.  each  team  capable  of  carrying  about 
100  pounds  to  each  dog.  It  is  apparent  that  this  hauling  must  be  done 
while  there  is  yet  a  solid  "rust  to  the  snow.  Up  to  the  latter  part  of 
April  this  crust  is  hard  day  and  night,  but  after  that  date  the  <^rust 
melts  ill  the  daytime,  though  still  freezing  hard  at  night.  This  latter 
condition  lasts  until  about  May  10,  after  which  there  is  an  interval  of 
some  tbiec  we«^ks  when  neither  sleds  nor  horses  can  be  used. 

In  order  to  insure  the  proper  provisioning  and  equipping  of  the  sub- 
stations, 1  believe  it  necessary  that  the  expedition  be  at  Valdez  iiot 
latev  than  thf  first  week  in  March,  and  earlier,  if  possible.  Cribs  for 
tho  bridges  over  the  Tonscna,  the  Klutena,  and  the  Tazlena  ought  to 
be  placed  in  position  early  in  the  season  before  the  glaciers  begin  to 
melt  and  the  stream-  get  high. 

As  the  length  of  the  road  increases  the  problem  oJ"  supplies  at  the 
fron»  will  become  more  and  more  difficult  of  solution.  With  an  iiiilim- 
ited  supply  of  pack  hor-ies  there  could  be  no  trouble  in  this  respect, 
I  it  ui  Alaska  ^uch  unlimit«^d  supply  can  hardly  obtain.  The  reduc- 
tion to  the  smallest  numbei'  of  horses  going  with  exph)ration  parties 
t'l  be  awav  tlir  whole  season  is  an  important  factor,  as  thus  je,i\  itig  ji 
l)*rger  nuinf>er  of  animals  permanently  with  the  main  supply  train. 
'Ibis  i'"««ij|t  <an  be  ti*-<'omplished  only  by  the  purchase  of  supplies  in 


I 


84 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


ll 


the  interior  earl}^  in  the  season,  lus  was  done  the  past  3'ear,  or  by  puek- 
ing  them  in  by  dog  trains  l)eforo  the  snow  crust  nuiits. 

As  to  my  own  party  the  past  season,  the  time  gained  by  liaving  such 
food  supplies  in  the  interior  I  have  already  explained.  It  was  of  eciual 
value  to  the  party  under  Mr.  Rice  on  the  trip  from  Valdez  to  Fort 
Egbert,  on  the  Yukon,  and  to  the  party  of  Mr.  Rohn,  topographer, 
who  explored  the  Chettyna  and  Upper  Copper  valleys. 

To  avoid  unnecessary  wear  of  horseflesh,  I  would  suggest  that  a  sys 
tern  of  relays  be  adopted  for  the  pack  train  oy  dividing  it  into  three 
trains  and  working  each  train  back  and  forth  over  the  same  portion  of 
the  road  between  certain  substations.  This  would  entail  the  emph)y- 
nient  of  sonje  six  extra  packers,  but  would,  I  believe,  prove  econom- 
ical in  the  long  run.  It  would  give  shorter  trips  fov  the  individual 
horse  and  a  cjuicker  service. 

I  submit  herewith  a  topographical  map  of  the  region  traversed  by 
the  military  road,  and  in  advance  of  the  road  as  far  as  the  proposed 
crossing  of  the  Tonsena. 

PHOTOGRAPHIC  REPORT. 

On  reporting  for  duty  with  the  Copper  River  exploring  expedition 
at  Seattle,  Wash.,  April  7,  1899.  I  took  charge  of  the  photographic 
work,  by  virtue  of  the  authority  conferred  in  the  following  letter  and 
verbal  instructions  from  yourself :     , 

'  War  Department,  Adjutant-General's  Office, 

Wiwhhujion,  March  ii2,  1809. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  orders  to-day  direct  Second  Lieut.  W. 
C.  BahcDck,  p]ighth  Cavalry,  to  report  to  you  for  the  purpoHe  of  actHimpanyinp;  the 
exploriuj;  e.xjHjditiou  f)f  the  Copper  River,  Alaska,  provided  for  in  General  Orders 
51,  current  series,  froui  this  office. 

The  Assistant  Secretary  of  War  directs  thatLieutei:ant  Iialx;ock  Ikj  placed  in  super- 
visory char^je  of  the  photogrnphic  work,  and  while  not  engaged  upon  such  work 
will  perform  suc^h  other  duties  as  you  may  assign  to  him,  provided  that  they  are  not 
to  interfere  in  any  way  with  the  photographic  work. 

Very  resiKjctfuUy,  W.  H.  Carter, 

AmMaiit  Adjufml-GouraL 
Capt.  W.  R.  Abercrombie, 

Second  United  States  Jnfanlrji,  Lemon  Building,  City. 

The  purpose  of  this  work  was  to  obtain  a  complete  and  continuous 
pictorial  i-ecord  of  the  work  of  the  expedition,  and,  together  with  the 
maps  made  daring  the  season,  to  illustrate  the  topographical  features 
of  the  region  traversed  by  the  United  States  military  road  from  Port 
Valdez  to  P:agle  City. 

From  a  perusc.l  of  reports  and  other  works  on  Alaskan  exploi'atif  n, 
and  in  the  light  of  your  own  experiences  on  former  oxiXxUtion.s  to  that 
Territory,  1  was  led  to  believe  that,  in  the  purcha.sc  of  )>{H)tographic 
supplies,  lightness,  strength,  and  protection  against  d»w«pness  were 
the  prime  considerations.  The  past  season's  experience  has  shown  this 
to  be  the  case. 


COPPER  KIVER  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


86 


r  })y  piu'k- 
iving  such 

S  of  ('(lUill 

oz  to  Kort 
iographer, 

that  ii  sys 
into  throe 
portion  of 
le  eniploy- 
"e  econom- 
individual 

iversed  by 
a  proposed 


expedition 

otographic 

letter  and 


Office, 
rh  !i2,  1899. 
ml  Lieut.  W. 
apanyiiiK  tlie 
eueral  Orders 

aced  insuper- 
)n  siu'li  work 
t  they  are  not 

'AIITKR, 

int-Gmiral. 


continuous 

?r  with  the 

al  features 

froin  Port 

xpli>r»ti«ii, 
ions  to  that 
otogi'aphic 
moss  wore 
shown  this 


The  camera  employed,  a  5  by  7  "Universal,"  had  all  joints  secured 
by  brass  screws,  in  addition  to  the  usual  dovetailing  and  glue.  Car- 
rying cases  for  the  camera  and  plate  holders  were  made  of  strong, 
light  wood,  one-half  inch  thick,  thoroughly  seasoned,  and  made  with 
hinged  overlapping  lids.  These  were  lined  with  heavy  canton  flannel 
and  covered  with  strong  leather,  strengtheiuid  with  brass  corner^' 
These  boxes  were  inclosed  in  cases  made  of  the  thickest  canvas,  with 
overlapping  cover,  all  edges  and  covers  being  bound  with  leather  and 
the  whoh'  secured  l)y  two  leather  straps  and  luickles,  one  of  the  straps 
serving  as  a  handh'. 

The  dry  phitos  used,  the  most  positive  on  th(>  market,  were  shipped 
in  the  ordinary  pasteboard  boxes  and  were  damp  proof  to  a  certjiin 
extent.  1  took  the  precaution,  however,  when  in  the  Held,  to  have  my 
spare  plates  secur(^ly  wrapped  in  oilcloth  bags,  made  to  fit.  Tlie  rolls 
of  film  used  in  the  smaller  cameras  were,  according  to  your  own  sug- 
gestion, inclosed  in  tight-iibi;ing  cylindrical  tin  boxes  and  the  cover 
joint  secured  with  adhesive  tape. 

A  printing  paper  unaffected  by  dampness  was  employed,  and  was 
selected  rather  for  the  simplicity  of  its  manipuhition  and  its  sonsitive- 
n»>ss  to  either  daylight  or  artificial  light  than  for  the  excellen(;e  of  its 
results. 

On  April  26,  at  Valde/,  a  small  board  shack  7  by  8  feet  was  pur- 
chased for  use  us  a  dai'k  room  and  for  the  storage  of  the  photographic 
materials.  It  was  fitted  with  shelves  and  mad''  light-tight  and  served 
its  pui'poso  well  throughout  the  season's  work. 

Picture  making  for  the  expedition  was  begun  with  the  loading  of 
supplies  and  stock  on  tiio  steamer  Krcvh/ot;  at  SoattU',  April  14,  1899, 
and  was  coritinuod  until  the  return  of  the  oxpinlition.  Five  small 
kodaks  wore  included  among  the  supplies,  and  th(>se,  after  detailed 
if'structions  as  to  their  use,  were  furnished  to  parties  entering  territory 
not  covered  ))y  my  own  part^^  In  all,  some  4(>(t  negatives  worotivken. 
Sets  of  prints  wore  made  from  those,  one  set  'H>ing  retained  for  record 
and  other  selected  prints  forwarded  as  <Iiibits  accompanying  prelim- 
inary reports  to  the  War  Department. 

As  far  as  possi))le  negatives  wore  developed  shortly  after  making,  in 
order  that  mistakes  could  be  corrected  and  accidents  avoided.  The 
want  oi  a  suitable  portal)le  dark  room  and  the  consequent  delay  in  the 
development  of  negatives  is  the  cause  of  the  utter  worthlessness  of 
many  valuable  views  made  by  the  location  party,  far  in  advance  of  the 
jnain  camp. 

It  is  said  that  a  good  photograph  of  Mounts  Drum.  Tillman.  Wran- 
gell,  ana  Blackburn  has  never  boon  made.  I  saw  these  mountains 
under  remarkable  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  and  climbed  to  a  height 
of  0,500  feet  to  obtain  an  unobstructed  view,  and  made  H\ c  exposures. 
On  another  occasion  I  made  six  exposures  from  a  different  point.   They 


86 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


I' 

■i 


are  all  utter  failures.  According  to  all  traditions  of  photography,  they 
would  l)e  well-nigh  perfect  were  it  not  for  an  unavoidabh^  d(>lay  of  six 
weeks  in  their  development. 

Photographs  serve  the  purpose  of  illustrating  in  a  general  way  the 
features  of  a  landscape,  but  they  couie  far  from  filling  all  the  wants  in 
tiiat  respect,  and  can  never  compete  with  a  hasty,  yet  skillful,  pen-and- 
ink  or  even  pencil  sketch.  Perfect  landscape  photographs — that  is, 
those  that  give  to  all  objects  the  same  degree  of  prominence  that  they 
present  to  the  eye  in  the  actual  view — can  be  obtained  only  by  repeated 
trials  and  long  waiting  for  favorable  conditions  of  light  and  shade.  In 
an  expedition  of  this  kind  it  is  manifestly  out  of  the  question  to  make 
many  delays  for  experiment  or  to  obtain  the  most  favorable  actinic 
conditions. 

Occasionally  circumstances  arise  when  a  view  showing  clearly  far 
distant  details  is  desired.  It  is  generally  difficult  and  frequently 
impossible  to  effect  this  by  photography.  In  such  cases  a  hastily 
executed  pen-and-ink  sketch  is  the  oidy  resource. 

I  submit  herewith  a  set  of  prints  of  all  negatives  made  by  this 
expedition,  except  such  as  are  partial  failures  or  so  nearly  duplicates 
of  others  as  to  render  them  unimportant.  As  far  as  possible,  the  date 
of  taking  the  negative  is  marked  on  the  print,  in  order  that  it  may 
show  the  effect  of  the  seasons  on  the  landscape. 

METEOROLOGKJAL  KEP'ORT. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Valdez  a  rain  gauge  and  maxi- 
mum and  minimum  thermometers  were  adjusted  and  set  up  in  suitable 
spots  and  soldiers  instructed  in  their  use  and  the  method  of  reading 
them.  Shortly  after  the  establishment  of  stiition  No.  2  another  set  of 
instruments  was  placed  at  that  point. 

The  maximum  thermometers  were  very  frail .^  and  at  both  points  these 
instruments  were  broken.  A  third  set  Avas  on  hand,  which  arrived 
with  the  thermometer  broken,  thus  rendering  the  set  valueless.  Cor- 
respondence was  at  once  opened  with  the  Unitt^d  States  Weather 
Bureau  and  application  made  for  new  and  perfect  instruments.  The 
retjue.st  ^^as  refused.  Consequently  the  temperature  records  are  of 
Wt  littlc>  value. 

The  tahles  below  give  the  monthly  summaries  of  the  records  at  Port 
Valdez  and  at  station  No.  2.  The  weather  conditions  at  A  aldez  are 
larjjfely  local  ones.  A  comparison  of  the  rainfall  records  ol  the  two 
stations  "hows  interesting  difft cences.  The  diminution  in  the  I'l'nfall 
from  the  coa-st  tb-ough  the.  Coast  Range  of  mountains  to  the  Copper 
River  Valley  is  gradual.  At  Valdez  it  rains  the  greater  part  of  the  time. 
There  is  les-  rain  at  station  2;  in  Dutch  Flat,  only  i  miles  from  stjition  2, 
there  is  nmch  less  than  at  the  station,  and  so  on  to  Copi>er  Center, 
where  rain  is  rare.     The  same  is  true  in  regard  to  the  winter  months. 


[phy, they 
fliiy  of  six 

wa}'^  the 

wants  in 

pen-and- 

-that  is, 

that  they 

repeated 

shade.    In 

In  to  maice 

pie  actinic 

Jleai-ly  far 

'requently 

a  hastily 

e  by  this 
duplicates 
e,  the  date 
at  it  may 


and  maxi- 
in  suitable 
f  reading*- 
her  set  of 

'ints  these 
h  arrived 
sti.  C'or- 
Weather 
its.  The 
Is  are  of 

Is  a^  Port 
ildez  are 

the  two 
'i  I'l'nfall 
'  Copper 
the  time, 
itation  2, 

Center, 
nu)nth8. 


ooppEB  nrvER  KXPLnnma  kxpkditk^n. 

M  KTKOUOLf MJICAI.   KKCOKI). 

Mojtihly  mimmariea  for  Port  V(ildez. 


87 


Temperature. 

Precipitation. 

Number  ot  dayn. 

Month. 

Mean 
maxi- 
mum. 

Moan 
mini- 
mum. 

Mean. 

Maxi- 
mum. 

Mini- 
mum. 

Total. 

Great- 
est in  24 
hours. 

Total 
snow 

With 
0.01 
inch 
or 
more 
rain 

Clear. 

i 

Cloudy. 

May 

62.74 
57.16 

33.41 
41.93 
46.87 
41.83 
34.66 

43.07 
49..'>» 

C-I.OO 
74.00 

27.00 
34.00 
30.00 
81.00 
1.5.00 
15.00 

Inches. 
2.88 
3.11 
2.75 
■1.19 
8.71 
4.62 

0.45 
1.50 
1.08 
1.73 
1.24 
1.70 

Slight. 
0.00 
0.00 
0.00 
0.00 
26.70 

14 
14 
9 
19 
20 
10 

7 
7 

19 

10 

7 

9 

7 
12 
1 
8 
4 
6 

17 

Juno 

July 

11 
11 

AUgUHt 

13 

Hoptoinber .. 

19 

25.00 

12 

o  Record  closes  October  27, 1899. 
MorUhly  summaries  for  station  No.  2, 


Temperature. 

Precipitation. 

Number  of  days. 

i.%'1  ::.. 

Ji  •;/.'.  •- 
tD'iJ. 

r.Iuan 
mini- 
raum. 

Mean. 

Maxi- 
mum. 

Mini- 
mum. 

ToUl. 

Great- 
est in  24 
hours. 

Total 
snow. 

With 
0.01 
inch 
or 
more 
rain. 

Clear. 

6.  K 

Cloudy. 

May  o 

Juno 

July 

Auifuxt 

Septt^mbor . . 
October i  ... 

53.7(\ 
59.0;! 
69.0<i 
61.25 
.W.HO 

;j-',.  -jx, 

12. 43 
■19. 19 
44. 67 
37.83 
;«).07 

44.01 
50.73 
.59. 13 
52. 96 
48.56 

65.96 
74.90 
86.90 
73.00 
74.00 

27.10 
33.01 
42.10 
37.00 
29.00 
18.00 

Inches. 

1.66 
2.21 
3,07 
.').46 
1.26 

0.24 
..55 
.53 
.58 
.85 

0.00 
0.00 
0.00 
0.00 
3.00 

15 
10 
13 
19 
6 

13 
19 
13 
10 
11 

2 
4 
4 

0 

1 

15 

8 

14 

20 
14 

a  Rain  gauge  not  set  up  until  Ha/  26, 1899. 
b  Record  closes  October  20, 1899. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Walter  C.  Babcock, 

First  Lieutenant,  Eighth  United  States  Cavalry, 

In  Charge  of  Location  and  Construction  Party. 
Capt.  W.  R.  Aberorombie, 

Second  United  States  Infantry, 

Cimimanding  Copper  Rivei'  Exploring  Expedition. 


3      \i 


BEPORT  OF  OSCAR  ROHN  ON  EXPLORATION  IN  WRANOELL 

MOUNTAIN  DISTRICT. 


TRAILS  AND    KOUTE8. 

The  key  to  the  Copper  River  country  and  to  its  future  development 
was  the  discovery  of  the  Lowe  River  passes  and  the  construction 
of  the  military  road  from  Port  Valdez  to  the  interior.  It  is  true  that 
the  natives  have  for  centuries  reached  the  coast  by  way  of  Copper 
River,  and  that  hordes  of  prospectors  in  the  season  of  1898  reached  the 
interior  in  part  by  th^s  route,  but  mostly  by  way  of  the  Valdez  Glacier, 
the  only  other  route  then  known.  B'lt  either  of  these  routes  is  so 
difficult,  dangerous,  and  impracticable  for  general  travel  as  to  be  pro- 
hibitive to  a  thorough  investigation  and  development  of  the  mineral 
resources  of  the  area.  The  discovery  and  improvement  of  the  new 
route  not  only  makes  possible  the  shortest,  easiest,  and  most  direct 
connection  between  the  Yukon  district  and  the  onl}'^  good  American 
p>ort  on  the  Alaskan  coast,  but  it  makes  possible  an  investigation  and 
development  of  the  vast  mineral  resources  of  which  the  Wi*angell 
Mountains  and  their  eastern  continuations  give  promise.  The  trail 
has  been  completed  over  the  difficult  and  questionable  part  of  the  route, 
and  by  way  of  it  the  prospectors  can  now  reach  Copper  Center  with  a 
pack-train  load  of  goods  in  the  same  time  that  it  would  take  him  for- 
merly to  make  his  way  with  a  light  load  to  Copper  Center  from  Valdez, 
while  the  transportation  of  his  goods  involved  months  of  labor  with 
sleds  (133),  over  a  route  necessitating  in  places  the  use  of  rope  and 
tackle.  The  new  route,  furthermore,  for  the  first  time  makes  feasible 
railroad  connection  between  a  good  port  on  the  southern  coast  of 
Alaska  and  the  interior. 

The  rush  of  gold  seekers  in  185)8  was  almost  exclusively  along  the 
route  from  Vjtlqliz  Over  the  glacier,  down  the  Klutena  River  to  Copper 
Center,  and  f l-oln  liere  up  the  Copper  River,  mostly  heading  for  the 
Mentasta  IV.hs.  Asa  coiisiMjuence,  a  very  good  trail  now  exists  ])etween 
the  foot  of  the  Khitelia  (llacier  and  (bpper  Center.  From  here  two 
trails  lead  to  Mtuittistii  I'ass,  one  uli  tht;  m  ostefl.V  h\iu\i  of  (\)pper  River, 
for  the  most  part  along  thi>  top  of  llii>  Miilt'H,  iiiiil  I  he  otlicr  In  a  more 
or  less  right-line  direction  from  Coppi  r  Cenlci  in  llie  nioiiMi  of  the 
Slahna,  along  the  foot  of  Mount  Drum.  The  latter  was  liiiill  l>y  a 
party  of  prospectors  led  by  B.  F.  Millard,  after  whom  the  trail  has 
been  named.  Both  of  these  trails  are  said  to  be  good,  the  former  l>eing 
88 


L. 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


89 


the  firmer  and  furnishing  the  b&st  footing,  but  involves  crossing  the 
weHt«;rn  l>ranrheH  of  Copper  River,  two  of  whi«^h,  the  (JhestociuMia  and 
the  Taziena,  are  considerable  streams  and  during  the  flooding  season 
are  difficult  to  cross. 

The  discovery  of  prospt^-ts  on  Quartz  Creek  and  the  Tiekell  resulted 
in  the  development  of  a  tmil  from  the  point  known  as  "The  Rapids" 
on  the  Klutena  River  to  the  foot  of  Tonsena  Lake  l)y  way  of  Orayling 
('reek,  and  from  there  up  Quartz  Creek  over  what  is  known  as  "The 
Drop"  to  the  Tiekell,  about  4  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Wtiwlder 
Creek.  The  new  route  avoids  this  divide  and  reaches  the  Tonsena  Val- 
ley 12  t«  15  miles  below  Tonsena  Lake  by  way  of  the  pass  at  the  head 
of  the  Kanata.  From  here  an  old  Indian  trail  leads  in  a  general  way 
along  the  northern  side  of  Tonsena  River,  reaching  the  Copper  about 
8  miles  alxwe  the  mouth  of  the  Tonsena.  This  trail  was  carefully 
marked  and  can  be  easily  followed.  It  will  undoubtedly  prove  a  part 
of  the  future  route  from  Valdez  to  the  Chettyna  River.  From  the 
point  where  this  trail  reaches  the  edge  of  Copper  River  gorge  a  con- 
nection was  made  with  an  old  Indian  trail,  leading  down  the  westerly 
side  of  the  Copper  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tonsena  on  level  ground  along 
the  top  of  the  bluffs. 

The  trail  from  Copper  Center  down  Copper  River  along  the  westerly 
bank  is  very  difficult  to  follov/,  and  leading  up  and  d(/wn  the  bluff  it  is 
most  difficult  to  travel. 

A  trail  is  reported  along  the  easterly  side  of  Copper  River,  but  no 
such  trail  was  found.  A  tr".li  along  the  easterly  side  of  Copper  River 
exists  for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Tonsena  and  the  Chettyna.  This  is  very  good  in  places,  particularly 
near  the  Indian  houses,  and  in  others  it  is  at  times  almost  impassa'r>le. 

From  Indian  Bellum's  house,  about  6  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Tonsena  River  on  the  easterly  side  of  the  Copper,  a  good  trail  leads  in 
a  direct  line  to  the  point  where  the  Kotsena  River  emerges  from  the 
mountains,  and  from  here  follows  the  northerly  side  of  the  river  for  a 
distance  of  about  10  miles. 

From  a  point  opposite  Bellum's  a  trail  leads  in  a  westerly  direction 
across  the  mountains  to  the  Kanata.  This,  however,  is  a  mountainous 
route  and,  while  shorter,  it  is  more  difficult  than  the  one  by  way  of 
Tonsena  River. 

The  general  route  up  the  Chettyna  River  is  the  Nicolai  trail,  lead- 
ing from  Taral  over  the  mountains  on  the  southerly  side  of  the  river, 
to  the  Nicolai  house  on  the  Nezena.  This  is  the  trail  followed  by 
Lieutenant  Allen  in  1885.  An  old  Indian  tmil  was  found  on  the  north- 
erly side  of  the  river,  leaving  the  bank  about  8  miles  above  its  mouth 
and  running  from  here  to  the  point  where  the  Kuskulana  River  emerges 
from  the  mountains.  Then,  following  the  Kuskulana,  it  crosses  it 
near  the  foot  of  the  glacier  and  leads  in  an  easterly  direction  to  the 


',  I 


i  1 


If 


90 


OOPl'KR    RIVKR    KXl'LClRINfl    EXPEDITION. 


I)end  in  tho  Laclu'iia.  Over  this  r<)ut<'.  v/*'  made  s«>vonil  trips  with 
horses.  It  is  well  marked  up  and  can  Ik!  traveled  at  almost  any  time 
of  the  year.  From  thi^  Laehenii  eastward  to  the  Ne/ena  we  cut  a 
trail  over  which  wi>  succeeded  in  uikiiijjf  our  pack  train;  hut  it  Is  prob- 
al)lc  that,  with  a  little  more  work,  a  Ixitter  trail  could  he  made  down 
the  Lachena  for  a  distance  of  T)  or  6  miles  and  then  aloilVf  the  southerly 
side  of  the  mountains  to  the  west  of  the  foot  of  Hoot's  Glacier.  From 
there  the  route  we  followed  is  probably  the  best  that  can  be  found  to 
the  Upper  Nezena  during  hijjh  water.  It,  however,  involves  very 
rough  tra''  'ling.  During  low  water,  when  the  Nezena  can  be  crossed, 
a  better  route  would  lead  along  tlur  southerly  side  of  the  mountains  to 
the  west  of  it. 

It  was  reported  that  the  InditMis  formerly  reached,  the  coast  at  a 
poi'.it  between  Yakutat  and  Kyak  by  traveling  up  the  southern  branch 
of  the  Chettyna,  known  by  the  natives  as  the  Tana.  This  route 
involves  crossing  a  groat  glacier  and  is  no  longer  used  by  the  natives. 

The  trail  to  the  White  River  used  by  the  natives  and  followed  by 
Lieutenant  Schwatka  and  Dr.  Hayes,  known  as  the  Scholai  Pass, 
leaves  the  Nezena  at  a  point  some  distance  alx)ve  the  foot  of  the  Nezena 
Glacier,  where  a  valley  free  from  glaciation  enters  from  the  east. 
From  the  head  of  this  a  low  gap  leads  to  the  head  waters  of  White 
River  over  the  foot  of  what  has  been  called  Russell  Glacier,  which  the 
natives  claim  to  cross  in  half  a  day.  In  the  winter  time  the  natives 
travel  down  the  Scholai  Creek,  but  in  the  summer  time  they  use  the 
trail  through  the  niountains  leading  from  the  head  of  this  to  the  Chet- 
tystone,  an  eastern  l)ranch  of  the  Nezena,  by  way  of  which  they  roach 
the  Nicolai  houses  This  route  is  prolmbly  the  only  one  feasible  for 
crossing  the  Chettyna  to  the  White  or  to  the  Tanana.  It  is  said  to  be 
not  very  difficult  for  traveling,  but  I  think  it  is  impossible  as  a  route 
for  a  railroad  or  pav-k  trail  or  for  transporting  goods  by  an}-^  other 
means.  The  route  by  which  we  crossed  the  Tanana  over  the  Nezena 
Glacier  and  Meiklejohn  Pass  is  not  practicable.  Indeed,  it  is  imprac- 
ticable to  attempt  to  cross  from  the  Tanana  and  White  to  the  Chettyna, 
or  vice  versa,  except  under  pressure,  with  merely  the  provision  and 
bedding  necessary  for  the  trip.  It  is  feasible  to  reach  '..hv  :'.>per 
Chettyna  Valley  by  railroad,  but  it  is  impossible  to  cont  ntie  irom 
here  across  the  range  in  anj'  direction. 

Mount  Wrangell  is  reached  from  Copper  Center  by  way  of  the 
Chestochena  River,  which  route  can  be  readily  traveled  during  the 
winter  or  during  the  low  season,  but  it  is  difficult  during  high  water. 
Mount  Drum  is  reached  by  a  fair  trail  from  Copper  Center.  A  pros- 
pectors' trail  leads  westward  from  the  Copper  River  trail  along  the 
Tazlena  to  the  interior,  and  from  a  point  below  the  mouth  of  the  Gul- 
kana  River  an  Indian  trail  leads  some  distance  to  the  interior.  Placer 
prospects  on  the  Chestochena  have  led  to  the  construction  of  a  good 


COPPER    RIVKR    KXPT.ORINO    EXPEDITION. 


91 


Ips  with 
Miy  time 

Hi   cut  U 

|i«  prob- 

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From 

(found  to 

pes  very 

|('rossed, 

itains  to 

•ast  at  a 
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is  route 
natives, 
wed  by 
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le  oast. 

f  White 

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natives 

use  the 

be  Chet- 

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ible  for 

id  to  be 

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Nozena 

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trail  along  its  westerly  banic  for  a  distaiic«i  of  sonu'  7(>  inih's.  The 
tmil  to  the  M«Mitasta  Pass  along  the  Slnhna  River  is  now  so  well  marked 
that  it  cnu  l)e  followed  without  ditKculty. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Slahna  a  good  tmil  leads  along  the  easterly 
side  of  Copper  River  to  Hatzulnetjis,  a  distjince  of  al)out  10  mih's,  and 
from  here  a  good  trail  leads  to  Lake  Suslota  and  to  the  Suslotu  Pass. 
A  trail  from  a  «"onvenient  point  on  the,  Millard  trail  leading  directly  to 
Hatzulnetas  would  save  considerable!  distance  over  the  routi^  now  exist- 
ing l)y  way  of  the  mouth  of  the*  Slahna. 

Fi-om  Hatzulnt^tus  a  good  trail  leads  altout  10  miles  in  a  southejisterly 
direction.  It  there  forks  into  three  branches  leading  by  three  ditfer- 
ent  passes  to  the  Nabesna  River.  They  are  all  feasible  for  horse  trails, 
and  each  is  advantageous  according  to  the  point  on  the  Nabesna  River 
that  is  to  be  reached.  The  westerly  one,  by  way  of  Ijjike  Tanada,  was 
used  by  prospecting  parties  traveling  with  pack  trains  during  the  past 
season,  and  the  central  one  was  used  as  a  sledding  route  during  the 
past  winter.  The  easterly  one,  however,  is  the  most  practicable  and 
the  easiest,  particularly  for  reach  the  foot  of  the  trail  leading  from 
the  Nabesna  to  the  h^ad  of  the  'nada  and  the  White.  The  tmil 
traveled  by  the  pack  train  is  well  marked  up,  but  the  others  are  diffi- 
cult to  follow,  and  require  the  aid  of  guides. 

The  trail  from  the  Nabesna  to  the  Tanada  leads  through  one  of  two 
passes.  The  northerly  one,  the  most  direct,  and  that  used  by  the 
natives,  is  not  feasible  for  pack  horses,  while  the  one  to  the  south  is. 
This  is  the  only  part  of  the  route  which  offers  any  difficulty  whatever 
for  pack  tmins  or  railroading,  but  the  difficulties  are  not  such  that 
they  can  not  be  readily  overcome.  From  here  on  to  the  head  of  the 
White  River  the  country  is  merely  hilly,  and  offers  no  difficulty  to  the 
construction  of  either  pack  route  or  railroad. 

CARTOGRAPHY. 

The  difficulty  of  transporting  provisions  through  unknown  territory 
and  ignorance  of  the  conditions  and  obstacles  to  be  met  usually  demand 
of  the  explorer  that  he  make  progress  the  consideration  of  prime 
importance,  and  that  he  restrict  cartographic  and  scientific  work  to 
such  as  can  be  done  without  interfering  with  progress.  In  traveling 
through  an  unknown  wilderness  with  a  pack  ti'ain  the  progress  of  the 
party  naturally  depended  on  the  speed  1  made  in  seeking  and  prepar- 
ing a  trail  feasible  for  hoi'ses.  In  undertaking  to  do  both  the  carto- 
graphic and  the  scientific  work  of  the  expedition,  it  was  plain  that  the 
methods  I  useu  must  give  results  with  a  minimum  expenditure  of  time. 
1  chose  the  ordinary  plane-table  method  as  particularly  advantageous 
under  these  conditions.  Equipped  with  a  telescopic  alidade,  it  was 
my  intention  to  run  a  stadia  traverse  up  the  bars  of  the  Chettyna,  and, 
using  this  as  a  base,  to  carry  the  line  of  elevations  from  peak  to  peak 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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92 


COPPER  RIVER  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


by  means  of  vertical  angles.  When  time  and  conditions  prevented  the 
use  of  these  methods  a  traverse  line  bused  upon  distance  by  pacing  or 
estimation  and  altitude  by  an  aneroid  barometer  could  be  substituted 
therefor  and  used  under  almost  any  conditions. 

When  the  work  must  be  Imsod  upon  estimation  the  checks  and 
counterchecks  aiforded  by  intersections  on  the  plane  table  very  much 
improve  the  accuracy  of  such  work.  A  valuable  check  for  work  of 
every  kind,  and  an  almost  indispensable  one  for  rapid  work,  consists  in 
the  location  of  points  by  the  astronomic  determination  of  latitude  and 
longitude.  For  this  purpose  I  proposed  using  a  6-inch  sextant  with 
artificial  horizon  and  two  high-grade  watches,  which  were  to  be  com- 
pared before  and  after  the  trip  with  a  standard  chronometer  left  at  Val- 
dez.  Unfortunately  but  one  watch  arrived  before  I  left,  and  that  too 
late  for  a  careful  comparison  with  the  chronometer.  It  was  therefore 
necessary  to  abandon  an  effort  to  determine  longitude  and  depend  for 
a  check  solely  upon  latitude  deteiminations.  With  the  instruments 
named,  an  aneroid  barometer,  a  prismatic  compass,  a  powerful  field 
glass,  and  an  E^tman  folding  kodak  completed  the  instrumental 
outfit. 

Under  the  impression  that  a  trail  suitable  for  horses  had  been  cut 
through  from  Valdez  to  Copper  River,  1  attempted  to  run  a  stadia 
traverse  line  over  this  route.  Finding  that  the  trail  needed  my  almost 
constant  attention,  1  was  obliged  to  abandon  the  stadia  work  and  to 
depend  for  a  map  of  the  route  traveled  upon  such  plane-table  stationfi 
as  I  could  make,  and  upon  estimation  of  the  distance  between  them. 
I  was  fortunate  in  the  selection  of  stations^,  and  succeeded  in  making  a 
sketch  map  of  the  route  traveled  containing  an  amount  of  infoi*mation 
entirely  out  of  proportion  to  the  time  required  to  make  it.  This 
sketch  was  sent  to  you  from  Quartz  Creek.  The  work  in  the  Tonsena 
Valley  was  confined  to  almost  a  single  station.  That,  however,  was  on 
a  high  bluff,  and  gave  me  an  opportunity  to  see  the  entire  valley. 

The  Copper  River  between  Copper  Center  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Chettyna  having  been  carefully  mapped  by  the  Schrader  expedition 
last  year,  I  made  no  effort  to  do  any  work  on  this  part  of  it.  The 
work  up  the  Kotsena  was  based  on  pacing  and  estimation,  comparing 
the  map  thus  made  with  others  based  on  actual  measurements,  showing 
the  distance  to  have  been  overestimated  in  a  proportion  of  about  six  to 
five.  Reducing  the  sheet  by  about  this  proportion  makes  it  fit  the  rest 
of  the  map.  The  country  to  be  mapped  was  found  to  be  so  mountain- 
ous, and  these  so  complicated,  that  an  effort  to  represent  the  topography 
by  contour  lines  would  have  consumed  more  time  thnn  could  possibly 
be  given  to  the  work.  I  therefore  attempted  to  represent  it  as  nearly 
as  possible  by  the  use  of  hachures.  This  system  was  continued  thi*ough- 
out  the  season  on  the  field  sheets. 


smm 


OOPPEB   RIVER   KXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


98 


High  water  in  the  Chettyna  prevented  the  running  of  a  stadia  line 
along  the  bars.  I  succeeded  in  making  a  fairly  accurate  meanurcnient 
of  the  distance  between  two  bluffs  a  little  over  three  miles  apart,  and 
from  these  I  attempted  to  make  locations  by  which  to  establish  a  sys- 
tem of  triangulation,  but  very  strong  local  attractions  so  disturbed  the 
needle  of  the  plane-table  compass  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  satis- 
factory results.  1  combined  this  work  with  estimation  and  triangula- 
tion. and  in  this  way  carried  the  survey  to  the  pass  between  the  Lachena 
River  and  Root  Glacier.  Here  time  permitted  the  measurement  of 
a  short  base  and  the  inauguration  of  a  new  system  of  triangulation, 
which  was  found  to  check  very  well  with  the  work  to  that  point. 

At  altout  this  time  the  rainy  season  set  in,  and  the  peaks  were  almost 
constantly  obscured  by  clouds  and  fogs.  This  condition  interfered  so 
much  with  the  work  that  1  was  unable  to  carry  the  system  of  triangu- 
lation here  inaugurated  through  to  the  Nezend.  I  was  able  to  run  a 
stadia  line  from  the  point  where  we  reached  it  opposite  the  upper 
forks  to  the  foot  of  the  glacier.  This  placed  the  work  on  the  Nezena 
sheet  on  a  measured  base.  The  work  thus  far  checked  beautifully, 
considering  the  manner  in  which  I  was  obliged  to  carry  it  on.  It  was 
impossible  to  carry  the  triangulation  over  the  summit  of  the  glacier, 
and  from  the  summit  to  Copper  Center  the  entire  work  was  based 
upon  the  estimation  of  distance.  By  carefully  checking  this  by  plane- 
table  intersections  I  managed  to  keep  the  scale  very  uniform,  and  by 
astronomic  determinations  of  latitude  it  was  found  the  sc^le  I  had 
adopted  w&s  a  trifle  large.  Reducing  it  according  to  the  data  furnished 
by  these  determinations  makes  this  part  of  the  work  check  very  fairly 
with  that  south  of  the  glacier. 

The  map  of  the  Copper  Risrer  from  the  Slahna  to  Copper  Center  is 
based  upon  a  sketch  made  in  a  boat  while  running  down  the  stream 
and  an  estimation  of  distances  from  point  to  point  made  by  McNoer 
during  repeated  trips  back  and  forth  while  sledding  goods  on  the  ice 
last  winter,  and  the  reduction  of  this  sketch  to  the  points  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Chestochena  and  at  Copper  Center,  which  were  located  by  lati- 
tude determinations.  The  (^hestochena  was  traversed  from  its  mouth 
to  the  log  cabin,  a  distance  of  about  25  miles,  and  this  checked  by  lati- 
tude determinations  at  its  mouth  and  at  the  log  cabin.  A  sketch  of 
the  river  beyond  this  point,  based  upon  the  recollection  of  McNeer, 
who  headed  the  stream  last  year,  was  not  transferred  to  the  general 
map,  because  this  area,  I  understand,  was  covered  by  Griffith,  a  topog- 
rapher with  Captain  Glenn's  party. 

The  latitude  of  Copper  Center,  determined  by  observations  on  two 
different  days,  gives  results  of  61°  55.2' and  61°  56.9',  checking,  there- 
fore, within  0.7',  while  the  map  of  last  3'ear's  expedition  makes  it  about 
62°  8'.  The  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Chettyna  was  found  to  be 
62°  30',  checking  within  two  minutes  of  the  latitude  given  by  last 


il 


I 


OOFPEB  RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 

year's  expedition.  For  the  part  of  the  map  surrounding  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Nabesna  River  I  am  indebted  to  a  native  known  as 
Tanana  Nicholas,  whose  very  able  sketch  of  the  area  I  adapted  to  such 
features  as  I  have  been  able  to  locate. 

Acting  on  the  principle  that  any  information  is  better  than  none  at 
all,  I  attempted  to  locate  as  accurately  as  conditions  would  permit 
not  only  the  route  which  we  traveled  and  the  features  adjacent  to  it, 
but  also  the  area  on  both  sides  of  the  route  as  far  as  I  could  see  jt. 
By  making  my  plane-table  stations  as  far  as  possible  on  mountain  tops, 
I  was  able  to  cover  a  wide  area.  Under  these  conditions  it  must  be 
understood  that  while  the  featui-es  adjacent  to  the  route  may  be 
depended  upon  as  ac<mrate  within  the  limits  of  the  methods  used, 
others  must  be  generalized  and  inaccurate  in  detail,  as  they  were  more 
and  more  remote  from  the  point  of  observations.  This  is  particularly 
true  of  the  area  cast  of  Mount  Wrangell,  at  the  head  of  the  Nabesna 
River,  which,  as  has  been  said,  is  based  upon  information  gotten  from 
the  natives,  and  while  it  may  be  very  inaccurate  in  detail,  it  represents 
the  best  information  ragarding  this  area  obtainable  at  this  time,  and, 
I  trust,  will  prove  of  value  to  those  interested  in  its  development. 


BBPOST  OF  JOHN  F.  BICE. 


Sir:  According  to  your  orders  I  have  the  honor  to  submit  herewith 
I  a  report  of  my  labors  and  operations  in  connection  with  the  Copper 
[River  Exploring  Expedition  under  your  command. 

My  orders  were  as  fellows: 

Valdkz,  Alaska,  June  1,  1899. 

Sir:  You  will  proceed  to  Eagle,  Yukon  River,  via  Copper  River,  Slahna  River, 
Mentasa  Pass,  and  from  that  point  onward  over  mich  route  as  Poet-office  Inspector 
C.  L.  Wayland  may  elect,  to  Eagle. 

At  Copper  Center  you  will  croee  the  Copper  River,  fuUow  the  Millard  trail  to  a 
point  heyond  Bowlder  Creek,  where  you  can  get  down  to  the  Copper  River,  up 
which  you  will  travel  until  you  are  above  the  mouth  of  the  Slahna,  where  you  will 
ford.  In  the  absence  of  Indian  guides,  yon  will  follow  up  the  left  bank  of  the 
Slahna. 

At  Copper  Center  you  will  supply  your  party  with  such  stores  as  may  be  required 
to  subsist  your  party  to  Eagle,  receipting  therefor  to  Private  Hallett,  Fourteenth 
Infantry,  in  charge  of  station. 

You  are  authorized  to  employ  such  guides  as  may  be  necessary  to  take  your  party 
through  with  the  least  possible  delay. 

You  will  keep  an  accurate  description  of  your  journey,  to  be  made  out  in  a  formal 
report  to  me  on  your  return. 

On  you;-     rival  at  Eagle  you  will  report  to  tho  military  commander  there,  whom 
I  have  requested  to  furnish  you  with  supplies  for  your  return  journey  to  Copper 
I  Center. 

The  quartermaster  of  the  expedition  will  transfor  to  you,  on  memorandum  receipt, 
^the  necessary  funds  to  pay  for  services  of  guides. 

W.  R.  Abercrombib, 

Capt.  Second  U.  S.  Ir\faniry,  Comdg.  Copper  River  Exploring  Expedition. 

John  F.  Ricb, 

Quartemuuter'B  Clerk. 

The  expedition  started  on  its  mission  the  afternoon  of  June  16, 1899. 
|Its  personnel  consisted  of  Edwin  Wood,  packer;  Edwin  Cashman,  cook, 
[and  John  Weiler,  hunter.    We  took  with  us  five  pack  and  tw^<  "addle 
lorses  and  the  necessary  rations  for  thirty -five  days. 
Post-office  Inspector  C.  L.  Wayland,  accompanied  the  expedition  for 
|the  purpose  of  establishing  post-offices  at  the  several  mining  camps 
dong  the  line  of  travel. 
Our  course  was  up  Lowe  River  to  Keystone  Canyon,  which  we 
ched  the  same  day,  after  a  journey  of  16  miles.     At  this  point  we 
remained  three  days  awaiting  the  completion  of  the  trail  which  runs 
irough  the  Canyon  into  Dutch  Valley.     In  the  matter  of  picturesque 
Buery  the  Keystone  Canyon  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Alaska. 

96 


96 


OOPPER  RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPBDITIOir. 


We  passed  through  the  canyon  and  down  into  Dutch  Valley  June  19. 
We  left  Dutch  Valley  the  following  daj  and  crossed  into  the  Tiekell 
Valley;  here  we  met  several  prospectors  with  pack  trains  en  I'oute  to 
the  Chettyna  country.  Wo  followed  Tiekell  Valley  in  a  northeast- 
emly  direction  until  we  crossed  the  South  Fork  of  the  Tiekell  River 
and  thence  followed  up  the  North  Fork  of  the  Tiekell  untU  we  reached 
Stewart  Creek,  a  small  stream  flowing  into  t  tie  Tiekell.  The  scenery 
of  the  valley  as  viewed  from  the  divide  is  impressive.  The  moss- 
covered  mountains  tower  hundreds  of  feet  above  you  on  either  side, 
while  the  perspective,  looking  through  the  valley,  is  enchanting.  We 
crossed  Stewart  Creek  near  its  mouth.  After  several  miles  of  travel 
we  passed  what  was  known  at  one  time  as  Tiekell  City,  it  having  been 
destroyed  by  fire  some  few  days  before  our  arrival.  Here  we  ci*os8ed 
another  divide  without  much  difficulty,  and  proceed'^d  to  the  hewlwaters 
of  Quartz  Creek,  which  we  followed  down  until  we  reached  Belcaro, 
situated  at  the  junction  of  Bear  Creek.  At  the  last-named  place  we 
found  about  fifty  miners,  who  were  long  on  prospects  and  short  on  gold. 
From  what  could  be  learned,  the  only  way  mining  could  be  made  to 
pay  at  this  point  was  by  the  use  of  hydraulic  machinery. 

Leaving  Quartz  Creek  we  crossed  another  divide,  which  led  the  expe- 
dition to  Tonsena  Lake.  This  lake  is  a  magnificent  body  of  water, 
mainly  fed  by  glacier  streams  and  the  melting  snow  from  the  moun- 
tains. It  is  about  8  miles  in  length  and  about  2^  miles  in  width.  Sal- 
mon, pickerel,  bass,  and  perch  abound  in  these  waters,  and  a  variety 
of  small  and  large  game  may  be  found  throughout  the  surrounding 
mountains.  The  timber  through  which  we  passed  up  to  this  time  was 
exceptionably  heavy,  and  the  grazing  fairly  good. 

The  Tonsena  River  finds  its  source  in  the  lake  of  that  name,  and 
empties  into  the  Copper.  I  employed  a  prospector  who  was  camped 
here  to  take  the  men  and  outfit  across  the  river.  After  crossing  the 
Tonsena  River  we  proceeded  up  Manker  Creek  until  we  reached  a  low 
divide  on  which  are  located  two  small  lakes.  From  these  two  bodies 
of  water  flow  two  small  streams,  one  of  which,  called  the  GraylirT, 
flows  north  and  empties  into  the  Klutena  River  above  the  rapids;  ^^e 
other,  the  Manker,  flows  south  and  empties  into  Tonsena  Lake.  From 
the  low  divide  we  proceeded  down  Grayling  Creek  until  we  reached 
Rapids  City,  a  town  located  on  the  Klutena  River,  about  85  miles  from 
PortValdes. 

In  the  fall  of  1897  and  the  spring  of  189r-  quite  a  number  of  pros- 
{lectors  became  stalled  at  this  place,  owing  to  the  rapids  in  the  river. 
They  erfjcted  cabins  and  made  this  point  their  headquarters.  Scurvy 
and  poor  prospects  for  finding  gold  caused  them  to  abandon  the  town. 
When  we  reached  the  place  the  only  inhabitant  was  Private  Garrett 
The  latter  was  in  charge  of  the  military  stores  and,  incidentally,  oper- 
ated a  ferry  across  the  Klutena.    The  horses  were  made  to  swim  the 


OOPPBB  BIYBB  BXPLOBHTO  EXPBDITIOir. 


»7 


river,  while  the  men  and  impedimenta  were  ferried  across  by  (Barrett 
We  were  now  practically  across  the  coast  range,  which  in  the  past  had 
been  looked  upon  as  an  almost  insuperable  obstacle  by  previous 
explorers.  Our  course  henceforth  was  along  the  Klutena  River  until  we 
reached  Copper  Center,  which  is  situated  some  25  miles  from  Rapids 
City.  Copper  Center  is  located  at  the  confluence  of  the  Klutena  and 
Copper  rivers.  The  town  at  one  time  contained  about  600  inhabitants. 
It  became  depopulated  from  natural  causes,  and  only  a  few  prospectors 
remain. 

Privates  Hallett  and  Hendricks  were  found  stationed  here  in  charge 
of  military  stores.  It  was  now  fourteen  days  since  our  departure 
from  Valdez,  and  we  had  traveled  about  110  miles.  While  here  I  con- 
cluded to  replenish  our  stores,  as  we  were  running  short  on  several 
articles. 

A  camp  of  about  thirty  Indians  was  found  at  Copper  Center.  They 
had  located  at  this  point  in  order  to  catch  their  winter's  supply  of 
fish,  and  had  evidently  met  with  gooi}  luck,  for  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  we  found  several  hundred  pounds  of  freshly  caught  salmon.  1 
employed  two  of  the  Indians  as  guides  to  place  us  safely  on  what  is 
known  as  the  Millard  trail.  We  proceeded  on  our  journey  July  1,  after 
crossing  the  Copper  River.  This  stream  has  always  been  considered 
a  dangerous  one  to  cross,  owing  to  its  many  rapids  and  the  swiftness 
of  its  current.  However,  we  met  with  no  accidents.  The  trail,  being 
plainly  marked,  was  not  difficult  to  follow.  It  was  followed  to  the 
Sanf oi'd  River.  The  country  passed  through  has  the  appearance  of  an 
[  excellent  one  for  i^cultund  purposes.  The  terraine  is  rolling,  and 
I  fi'ee  of  brush  and  trees. 

The  Sanford,  at  the  time  we  forded  it,  was  exceptionally  low.  It 
I  has  its  source  in  the  glaciers  of  Mounts  Sanford  and  DruDi:.  At  cer- 
tain periods  of  the  year  it  is  swollen  to  such  a  size  as  to  make  it  an 
exceedingly  dangerous  stream  to  01*088.  After  crossing  the  Sanford 
[we  lost  all  trace  of  the  trail.  Our  course  thenceforward  was  along 
[the  foothills  of  Mounts  Sanford  and  Drum  until  we  could  see  in  the 
[distance  the  mouth  of  the  Slahna.  Here  we  left  the  foothills,  pasced 
[through  the  vaDey,  and  recrossed  the  Copper.  It  being  very  low  it 
forded  without  trouble.  We  then  proceeded  in  the  direction  of 
[the  Slahna,  arriving  at  about  8  miles  above  its  mouth  July  8.  Here 
[we  were  compelled  to  build  a  raft  in  order  to  get  the  men  and  outfit 

cross.    Our  course  was  now  up  the  west  bank  of  the  Slahna.    The 
(timber  along  the  bank  of  the  Slahna  is  exceptionally  heavy,  consisting 
chiefly  of  spruce,  birch,  and  cottonwood.    We  traveled  along  the 
idge  until  we  could  see  Lake  Mentasta  in  the  distance. 

After  reoroesing  the  Slahna  and  following  an  old  Indian  trail  we 
irrived  at  Mentasta  Creek.    Here  we  found  several  deserted  Indian 
as  well   as   paraphernalia  for  ditching  salmon.     Fording 
S.  Doc.  306 7 


98 


COPPER  RIVEB  BXPLUUINO   EXPEDITION. 


•; 


this  creek  we  continued  along  the  trail  until  we  reached  Mentasta 
Lake,  which  in  located  at  the  foot  of  Montasta  PasH.  It  Ih  a  pretty 
body  of  water,  and  the  scenery  about  it  is  rugged  and  impressive. 
Above  its  waters  tower  the  mighty  spurd  of  the  Alaskan  range.  The 
fishing  and  hyinting  in  this  region  is  not  surpassed  in  any  other  por- 
tion of  Alaska.  At  this  place  we  found  camped  some  twenty  prospect- 
ore  and  three  of  the  Tetling  Indians.  From  these  lattt^r  we  learned 
that  all  but  two  ot  the  Mentasta  Indians  had  died  the  previous  winter 
and  that  the  two  survivors  had  joined  the  Ketchumstock  tribe.  They 
were  here  to  verify  the  report  and,  if  true,  to  ascertain  what  the 
prospects  were  to  obtain  a  winter's  supply  of  fish.  I  noticed  that  they 
were  heavily  armed,  and  on  making  inquiry  learned  they  had  no  right 
in  this  section  of  the  country  and  were  prepared  to  defend  themselves 
if  necessary.  The  prospectors  showed  me  some  very  fine  specimens 
of  rock,  which  they  expected  to  send  to  the  States  to  have  assayed. 
We  left  the  lake  July  12  and  proceeded  through  Mentasta  Pass. 
This  pass  is  extremely  low  and  narrow,  and  in  passing  through  we 
could  scarcely  realize,  but  for  the  mountains  towering  above  us.  that 
we  were  traveling  through  the  Alaskan  range.  Once  through  this 
pass  we  soon  reached  the  Little  Tok,  wiiich  was  easily  forded,  and 
proceeded  to  the  Big  Tok.  Arriving  there  we  were  again  compelled 
to  build  a  raft  to  get  our  outfit  aoroas.  In  the  valleys  between  these 
two  rivers  we  encountered  some  of  the  heaviest  timber  we  had  yet 
seen  on  our  travels.  Some  of  the  spruce  and  fir  trees  were  over  2 
feet  in  diameter  and  90  to  100  feet  in  height. 

The  guide  we  employed  at  Mentasta  Lake  was  dismissed  after  he  had 
put  us  on  the  trail  which  leads  to  the  Tanana  River. 

The  Tanatia  was  reached  July  16,  after  traveling  over  some  25  miles 
of  the  levelest  as  well  as  the  dryest  country  in  Alaska.  Fortunately 
I  had  been  informed  by  the  Indians  at  Mentasta  Lake  that  we  would 
be  unable  to  obtain  water  after  leaving  a  small  lake  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Big  Tokai,  and  so  arranged  to  make  the  trip  between  these  two 
points  in  one  day. 

We  ^^in  built  a  raft,  and  after  several  ineffectual  attempts  and  a 
delay  of  two  days  the  Tanana  was  safely  crossed.  The  river  at  the 
point  is  some  500  feet  wide  and  runs  at  the  rate  of  about  6  miles  an 
hour.  From  here  we  proceeded  to  Lake  Mansfield,  arriving  there 
July  18.  This  lake  is  a  beautiful  body  of  water  of  the  darkest  blue, 
and  is  inhabited  by  almost  every  variety  of  fish.  Vegetation  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  lake  is  of  the  rankest  kind. 

Hei-e  we  found  camped  a  band  of  about  fifty  Ketchumstock  iLdians, 
consisting  of  men,  women,  and  children.  They  spend  the  summer 
hunting  and  fishing  in  this  locality,  and  in  ihe  fall  return  to  their  winter 
quartei-s  at  Ketchumstock  village.  They  ^ere  very  inquisitive,  and 
among  other  questions  ask^d  us  if  we  were  McKinley  men,  and  when 


COPPKR   RIVER   KXI'LURIMU    EXPKDITIDK. 


99 


the  milroad  (which  wua  expected  to  run  throu^fh  that  section)  would 
be  (■oniplete<i.  The  KetA^huniHt4.>ck  Indian  in  superior  intellectually, 
physically,  and  morally  to  the  Copper  River  Indian.  He  is  very  hospi- 
table, OS  well  as  honest,  and  a  cache  left  in  his  charge  is  safer  than  when 
left  with  some  white  men.  He  is  very  fond  of  tolmcco,  sugar,  and  U^a, 
and  prefers  these  commodities  to  money.  The  women  and  children,  as 
well  OS  the  men,  ohew  and  smoke.  Like  all  <>ther  Indians,  they  are 
subject  to  lung  and  other  hereditary  diseases,  and  consumption  is  car- 
rying them  off  rapidly. 

I  employed  one  of  the  Indians  as  a  guide  to  take  us  to  Ketchumstock 
village. 

Ijeaving  the  lake,  we  crossed  a  divide  and  deik'onded  into  Mosquito 
Volley,  through  which  runs  the  creek  of  that  name.  Mosquito  Creek 
is  a  tributary  of  Forty -Mile  River.  The  valley  is  very  properly  named. 
Millions  of  mosquitoes,  gnats,  and  other  pestiferous  insects  find  a  habi- 
tfftion  here.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  low  and  the  growth  of 
grass  something  extraordinary.  The  valley  is  about  25  miles  wide  and 
50  miles  long.  It  is  sparsely  timbered,  except  along  the  bank  of  the 
creek.  Judging  from  the  character  of  the  soil,  nearly  everything  grown 
in  the  States,  with  the  exception  of  fruit,  will  grow  here.  As  we 
advanced  up  the  valley  our  route  was  along  a  corral  some  several  miles 
in  length,  and  constructed  similar  to  our  rail  fences.  Into  this  huge 
pen  of  thousands  of  acres  the  Indians  drive  the  caribou  and  moose. 
Openings  at  intervals  are  left  in  the  fence  for  the  animals  to  escape. 
As  they  emerge  from  the  pen  through  these  openings  the  Indians  lasso 
them  and  cut  their  throats.  Their  object  in  hunting  in  this  manner  is 
that  they  all  can  take  part  in  it,  and  does  not  scare  the  game,  as  do  fire- 
arms, bei^idcs  saving  ammunition,  which  is  exceedingly  scarce  in  that 
part  of  the  country. 

Ketchumstock  village,  the  home  of  the  Ketchumstock  Indians,  was 
reached  July  21.  We  had  now  traveled  a  distance  of  about  321  miles 
since  our  departure  from  Valdez.  When  we  arrived  at  Ketchumstock 
our  guide  i-efused  to  proceed  farther  with  us,  as  the  law  of  trespassing 
on  the  territory  of  other  tribes  is  rigidly  enforced,  the  penalty  being 
the  death  of  the  invader  if  caught,  unless  he  shows  a  permit  from  the 
chief  of  the  country  to  travel  through  it.  After  a  great  deal  of  coax- 
ing and  promising  to  bring  him  tobacco  l.e  finally  consented  to  accom- 
pany us  to  Franklin  gulch. 

Leaving  Ketchumstock,  we  proceeded  to  Franklin  gulch.  Our 
course  was  over  the  Ketchumstock  hills  to  the  head  of  the  guloh,  and 
down  the  gulch  until  we  reached  its  mouth.  Strung  along  the  gulch 
are  the  cabins  of  the  miners,  who  are  still  searching  for  gold.  Frank- 
lin gulch  is  one  of  the  oldest  mining  camps  in  Alaska.  At  one  time 
finds  there  were  rich  and  numerous.  But  little  of  the  precious  metal 
is  now  found,  sji  the  mines  have  been  nearly  exhausted. 


i  j 


100 


OOPPZB  BIVSB  XXPLOBIKO  EXPBDITIOir. 


While  at  the  gulch  wo  were  informed  that  all  of  the  claimH  had  been 
bonded  to  a  New  York  Hy ndicsate  and  that  in  the  near  future  improved 
procesHes  in  mining  would  be  inaugurated.  Thus  far  Franklin  Guloh 
was  the  first  locality  we  struck  where  mining  was  in  actual  progress. 
While  there  specimens  of  gold  nuggets  were  shown  us  ranging  in 
value  from  $5  to  $76,  all  of  which  had  from  time  to  time  been  taken 
from  the  gulch.  The  possessors  of  these  nuggets  took  great  pride  in 
exhibiting  them  and  in  relating  stories  of  their  early  days  in  the  gulch. 

Our  objective  point  was  row  Eagle  City,  on  the  Yukon.  Upon  mak- 
ing diligent  inquiry  we  could  find  no  one  who  could  positively  locate 
the  town.  As  it  was  necessary  for  us  to  proceed  on  our  journey,  I 
employed  a  guide  who  pretended  to  know  the  country  over  which  we 
were  to  travel.  Some  of  our  provisions  were  now  growinjy;  scarce  and, 
being  unable  to  purchase  any  of  the  miners,  we  finally  borrowed  what 
we  needed  to  carry  us  through,  promising  to  return  the  same  in  kind  on 
our  way  back.  At  the  mouth  of  the  guloh  wo  crossed  the  South  Fork 
of  the  Forty-Mile  River,  and  from  thence  proceeded  by  way  of  tho 
Forty-Mile  trail  until  we  reached  the  head  of  Steele  Creek.  Our 
course  was  now  down  Steele  Creek  to  its  mouth,  which,  when  reached, 
we  crossed  Forty-Mile  River  proper.  Once  across  the  river  we  again 
took  up  the  Forty -Mile  trail  (which  runs  along  a  ridge)  and  followed 
it  until  we  reached  the  ''Dome,'^  a  peak  about  8,000  teet  high,  dome- 
like in  shape.  At  this  point  we  left  the  Fort}  -Mile  trail  and  proceeded 
due  north,  crossing  a  tributary  of  O'Brien  Creek  near  its  source.  We 
again  reached  the  ridge  and  traveled  along  it  for  a  few  miles,  when  the 
waters  of  the  mighty  Yukon  burst  upon  our  vision.  Continuing  along 
the  ridge,  we  caught  sight  of  an  island.  Thinking  it  might  be  Belle 
Isle  (the  former  name  of  Eagle),  we  passed  down  the  ridge  to  the  head 
waters  of  a  stream  which  we  supposed  was  American  Creek.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  we  found  it  was  Boundary  Creek,  a  stream  which  marks 
the  boundary  between  Alaska  and  the  Northwest  Territory.  We  fol- 
lowed this  creek  to  its  confluence  with  the  Yukon,  reaching  that  point 
on  July  27.  Upon  arrival  at  the  Yukon  we  found,  to  our  great  dis- 
appointment, no  town  in  sight.  Fortunately,  however.  We  found  two 
prospectors  rowing  down  the  river.  Upon  questioning  them,  they 
informed  us  that  we  were  some  12  miles  east  of  our  destination.  Post- 
Office  Inspector  Wayland  joined  the  prospectors  hero  and  proceeded 
to  Eagle  City.  The  next  morning  we,  also,  started  for  Eagle  City, 
reaching  that  point  without  incident  on  July  28,  after  an  absence  of 
forty  days  and  traveling  a  distance  of  some  425  miles. 

Considering  the  character  of  the  country  which  we  passed,  the  con- 
dition of  the  men  and  horses  was  fairly  good.  On  account  of  being 
compelled  to  walk  most  of  the  way  the  men  were  somewhat  foot-sore. 
On  reaching  Eagle  City  I  reported  to  Captain  Richardson,  commander 
of  the  military  post  at  that  point. 

Major  Ray  and  his  command  arrived  some  three  days  later  for  the 


OOPPBB  BIVEB  BXPLORINO  XZPXDITIOir. 


101 


purpose  of  Hupenteding  (^ptaiti  Richardson.  I  remained  at  Eagle 
City  eleven  days  Jn-ifore  commencing  my  return  journey  to  Port  Val- 
dez,  spending  tlie  intervening  time  in  replenishing  our  supplies,  rest- 
ing  my  men  and  horses,  and  having  the  latter  properly  shod. 

A  few  words  about  Eagle  City  may  prove  interesting.  -  The  town  is 
second  in  importance  to  any  on  the  Yukon  and  appears  to  be  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  It  is  located  above  the  mouth  of  Mission  Creek, 
sufficiently  high  to  prevent  its  being  damaged  by  the  overflow  of  the 
Yukon.  It  has  a  population  of  about  700.  Most  of  the  dwellings  are 
constructed  of  logs.  The  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  the  North 
American  Transportation  Company,  and  the  Alaska  Exploration  Com- 
pany have  general  Hupply  stores  at  Eagle  City.  There  is  also  a  saw- 
mill with  a  capacity  of  turning  out  several  thousand  feet  of  lumber  per 
day.  In  addition  to  the  above,  the  town  is  well  supplied  with  retail 
stores,  restaurants,  and  saloons.  There  was  no  church  edifice  at  the 
time  of  our  visit.  The  gospel  was  being  expounded  in  a  saloon.  I 
found  the  town  to  be  an  exceptionally  ciuiet  one.  I  saw  no  gaming  or 
dance  halls  in  operation  and  no  immoral  characters  parading  the  streets, 
such  as  are  seen  in  most  mining  camps. 

Previous  to  my  return  to  Valdez  I  learned  that  a  horse  belonging 
to  Lieutenant  Lowers  expedition  had  sunnved  the  winter  and  was  then 
at  Forty -Mile  Post.  I  went  in  person  aAd  brought  it  back  to  E^gle 
City.  The  horse  was  in  exceptipnally  good  condition  and  was  used  to 
good  advantage  during  our  return  trip. 

Having  thoroughly  recruited  the  men  and  horses,  and  being  fairly 
well  provisioned,  we  started  on  our  return  journey  to  Valdez  August 
9  over  practically  the  same  route  that  we  had  traveled  before.  Instead 
of  returning  by  way  of  Boundary  Creek,  however,  we  followed  the 
trail  that  leads  up  American  Creek.  We  then  took  the  ridge,  travel- 
ing along  it  until  we  reached  the  '^Dome."  From  this  point  onward 
we  ti'aversed  the  identical  route  over  which  we  had  hitherto  traveled. 
We  carefully  veblazed  the  trail  as  we  went  along,  in  order  that  those 
who  had  passed  over  it  after  us  would  have  no  difficulty  in  pursuing 
their  way. 

Between  the  "Dome"  and  Forty-Mile  River  we  encountered  a  pack 
trail  from  Forty -Mile  Post  packing  provisions  to  Jack  Wade  Creek. 
The  latter  is  .a  stream  which  runs  into  the  South  Fork  of  Forty-Mile, 
and  whose  course  is  paralleled  to  Napoleon  Creek.  Here  we  were 
informed  that  a  rich  strike  had  been  made  on  the  creek  and  that  out  of 
a  wheelbarrow  of  dirt  upward  of  $800  of  gold  had  been  panned,  the 
gold  assaying  $18.40  per  ounce.  It  was  estimated  at  the  date  men- 
tioned that  there  were  some  700  prospectors  located  ou  the  craek.  In 
the  pack  train  was  a  horse  that  had  wintered  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake 
Mentasta  and  had  been  picked  up  by  a  prospector  and  taken  down  to 
the  post.  This  would  seem  to  demonstrate  that  stock  can  be  success- 
fully wintered  in  the  interior. 


102 


OOPPBB  BIVEB  SXPLOBIKO  KXPKDITIOlf. 


t 


il 


Captain  Glenn's  oxpudition  waH  met  midway  lietween  Steele  Creek 
and  Franklin  Gulch,  en  rout4)  to  Eagle  City.  At  the  headiiiiartent  of 
Mosquito  Creek,  between  Ket(!humHto<-k  and  ManHtield  I^lce,  we  met 
Mail  Contractor  Holman  with  hinpack  train,  eMtablishing  mail  Htations 
along  the  trail,  as  well  as  leaving  Hupplies  at  the  several  stations  to 
enable  him  to  successfully  carry  on  his  operations  the  coming  winter. 

Between  Slahna  and  the  Sanford  rivers  we  encountered  a  herd  of 
caribou.  While  they  were  inspecting  our  outfit.  Wood  fired  several 
shots  at  them,  but  without  effect.  It  was  near  this  same  spot,  while 
on  our  way  to  Eagle  City,  that  Wood  was  treed  by  an  enormous  brown 
bear.  Hearing  footsteps  in  his  rear,  he  turned  and  discovennl  the  bear 
making  foi  i>;ni  at  a  slow  pace.  Wood  sprinted  for  his  life  to  the 
nearest  tree  and  swung  himself  by  a  handy  limb  to  a  placd  of  safety. 
We  henrd  his  cries  for  help  and  frightened  the  bear  away  by  firing 
our  guns.  On  September  2  we  arrived  at  Copper  Center.  Here  we 
met  Surveyor  Powell  of  the  expedition,  who  was  running  a  line  from 
that  point  to  Mentasta  Ltike.  We  remained  here  one  day,  recruiting 
HMD  and  horses.  At  2  p.  m.,  September  8,  while  standing  on  a 
stump  making  observations,  I  was  violently  precipitated  to  the  ground 
by  a  sudden  seismical  disturbance.  The  earth  seemed  to  rock  like  the 
angry  billows  of  the  ocean.  The  trees  swayed  to  and  fro  as  if  a  hur- 
ricane was  raging.  In  the  midst  of  the  convulsion  of  nature  there  was 
borne  to  our  ears  far-off  sounds  resembling  the  discharge  of  heavy 
artillery.  Some  16  miles  distant  we  could  see  Mount  Wrangell 
emitting  smoke  and  lava.  The  scene  was  one  of  terror,  as  we  expected 
every  minute  to  see  the  earth  open. 

On  September  4  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  to  Valdez,  reaching 
Klutena  Rapids  the  same  day.  Upon  our  arrival  at  the  north  fork  of 
the  Tiekell  River  we  found  Captain  Al)ercrombie  with  his  construc- 
tion crew.  We  turned  in  our  outfit  and  left  the  following  morning, 
accompanied  by  Captain  Abercrombie's  pack  train.  We  reached  Port 
Valdez  at  2  p.  m. ,  September  11.  The  trail  for  the  last  60  miles  of  our 
journey  was  in  excellent  condition. 

The  route  over  which  we  traveled  from  Port  Valdez  to  Eagle  City 
presents  no  such  obstacles  as  did  the  route  through  the  Cascade  or 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  pack  trail  now  constructed  through  the  Coast 
Range  by  Captain  Abercrombie  could  be  transformed  into  a  wagon  or 
railroad  bed.  No  glaciers  are  to  be  encountered  nor  any  other  serious 
obstacles.  The  most  difficult  part  of  the  trail  is  now  practically  com- 
pleted, which  is  through  the  Coast  Range.  There  ar««  no  other  moun- 
tains until  the  Alaskan  Range  is  reached,  some  150  miles  north  of  the 
Coast  Range.  As  there  is  a  pass  through  this  range  no  difficulties  what- 
ever would  he  encountered.  Asiar  as  thr.  K<  ''umstock  hiHs  are 
concerned,  they  also  presenL  no  obstacles  that  oonh!  i.ot  easily  be  over- 
Come  by  competent  engineers. 


OOPPBB  BIVER   EXPLORINO   BXPEPiXIUIf. 


108 


TRANHAIiAHKAN   KOUTI.. 

The  all- American  route  im  Hotne  2(X)  iniloH  Hhorter  than  cither  the 
Ska^way  or  White  PaiM,  or  Dyea  or  Chilkoot  routes.  It  in  the  only 
route  that  can  be  tniveled  from  the  coatit  to  the  Yukon  without  being 
compelled  to  make  a  long  and  tortuouM  poiwage  by  boat.  By  taking  thin 
route  no  diiMgreeablo  tranuferH,  Huch  am  are  found  on  the  other  routes 
Ui  the  Yukon,  are  neccHsary.  It  will  Ix)  found  the  cheapest  and  moHt 
feasible  route  to  take  Htock  into  the  region  of  the  Yukon,  being  acecM- 
nible  to  Dawson,  Forty-Mile  Poftt,  Fort  Cudahy,  and  Eagle  and  Cin^le 
citieit,  as  well  as  to  the  diffbrenv  /  'ning  camps  in  the  Forty-Mile  coun- 
try.  There  is  an  abundance  of  gt;  ^tt  as  well  as  water  along  the  route 
for  stock  from  May  to  October  Stock  can  be  grazed  along  the  way 
as  far  as  Mosquito  Valley.  \  d  thcio  left  to  be  drawn  upon  from  time 
to  time  as  occasion  demands. 

There  is  an  excellent  opportunity  for  enterprising  and  adventurous 
persons  to  make  money  by  shipping  titock  to  Valdez  and  then  driving 
them  through  to  the  Yukon.  Oittlo  could  bo  made  to  sustain  them- 
selves en  route,  and,  if  carefully  driven,  should  be  in  excellent  condi- 
tion when  they  arrive  at  their  destination.  Tiie  price  of  fresh-dressed 
oeef  in  the  Forty-Mile  and  Yukon  countries  ranges  from  $1  to  $1 .60 
per  pound.    On  the  foot  cattle  sell  at  28  to  50  cents  per  pound. 

FOOD  RBSOUROBS. 

The  food  resources  of  the  interior  of  Alaska  are  not  as  meager  as 
may  be  supposed.  There  are  to  be  found  the  caribou,  moose,  bro^  n 
and  black  bear,  mountain  goat,  and  several  varieties  of  smaller  game, 
such  as  wild  goose,  the  duck,  the  grouse,  the  fool  hen,  and  ptarmigan. 
The  rivers  and  lakes  abound  with  choice  varieties  of  fish,  such  as  the 
king  salmon,  dog  salmon,  pickerel,  perch,  bass,  whitefish,  trout,  pike, 
and  grayling. 

Of  the  smaller  fruits  there  are  the  cranberry,  salmon  berry,  blue- 
berry, alder  berry,  raspberry,  and  wild  currant,  all  of  which  grow  in 
great  profusion  throughout  the  interior. 

Small  garden  vegetablen  are  successfully  grown  at  Forty-Mile  Post 
and  Eagle  City.  At  these  points  I  saw  fine  specimens  of  potatoes,  cab- 
bage, turnips,  beets,  radishes,  carrots,  and  lettuce,  all  of  which  had 
been  grown  by  the  residents  of  the  towns. 

TIMBEB. 

The  country  through  which  we  traveled  is  fairly  well  timbered.  As 
you  travel  northward  and  reach  a  high  altitude  the  timber  line  varies. 
The  varieties  of  timber  are  the  spruce,  the  fir,  the  birch,  the  cotton- 
wood,  the  alder,  and  the  willow.  The  predominating  varieties  are  the 
spruce  and  fir,  which  latter  grows  to  an  enormous  size.     The  spruce 


H 


i 


104 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


may  be  used  for  mining  and  railroad  timber,  as  it  averages  from  12  to 
18  inches  in  diameter  and  from  75  to  85  feet  in  height.  The  white 
birch  predominates  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Slahna,  and  will  average 
about  14  inches  in  diameter.  Forest  fires  have  destroyed  thousands 
and  thousands  of  acres  of  timber  throughout  the  interior,  especially  so 
in  the  last  few  years. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  in  the  interior  of  Alaska  is  milder  and  much  dryer  than 
it  is  on  the  coast.  From  June  until  September  it  resembles  the  climate 
of  the  northern  portion  of  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin. 

RTVERS. 

The  rivers  along  this  route,  with  the  exception  of  the  Yukon,  are 
exceedingly  difficult  to  navigate,  owing  to  the  swiftness  of  their  cur- 
rents as  well  as  their  many  rapids.  All  rivers  south  of  the  Forty -Mile 
River  are  fed  by  glacier  streams.  They  are  usually  muddy  until  late 
in  the  fall,  when  they  begin  to  grow  clear,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the 
glaciers  have  then  ceased  their  flow. 

John  F.  Rice, 
Clerks  Copper  Mi/ver  Explming  Mepeditiati. 
Capt.  W.  R.  Abercrombie, 

Comdg.  Copper  River  Mydormg  Mtfpeditimi. 


II 


SSPOBT  OF  08CAB  BOHH  OH  EXPLORATION  IN  WAAHOELE 
MOirNTAin  DISTRICT. 


TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  country  about  Valdez  consists  of  a  series  of  rugged,  sawtooth 
ranges  with  a  general  east  and  west  axis,  separated  by  narrow  val- 
leys. In  traveling  to  the  interior  over  the  new  route  the  first  of  these 
ranges  is  crossed  through  Keystone  Canyon  and  the  second  by  Thomp- 
sons Pass  from  Lowe  River  to  the  Chena  River.  The  Chena  River, 
rising  in  the  range  east  of  the  Valdez  Glacier,  flows  first  in  a  general 
southerly  direction  for  a  distance  of  some  8  or  10  miles,  and  turns 
abruptly  east  into  a  deep,  narrow,  canyon-like  valley,  which  it  follows 
in  the  same  general  direction  to  the  Copper  River.  Our  route  reached 
the  Chena  at  the  turn  and  followed  it  for  a  distance  of  from  15  to  18 
miles  to  a  point  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Kanata.  This  enters  by  a 
valley  transverse  to  those  thus  far  crossed.  The  valley  of  the  Kanata 
leads  in  a  general  northerly  direction  over  a  low  divide  into  the  valley 
of  the  Tonsena  River,  the  southern  border  of  which  mai'ksthe  northern 
limit  of  the  Coast  Ranges. 

From  the  confluence  of  the  Kanata  and  the  Chena  the  extremely  jagged 
nature  of  the  ranges,  characteristic  of  much  disturbed  bedded  rocks, 
gives  way  to  rather  more  regular  forms  which,  northward,  become 
more  and  more  rounded  in  outline.  This  -is  particularly  true  of  the 
moderately  high  range  separating  the  valley  of  the  Tonsena  from  that 
of  the  Klutena,  the  regular,  well-rounded  outlines  of  which  indicate 
massive  eruptives.  The  range  between  the  Lowe  River  and  the  Chena 
River,  while  widening  to  the  east,  continues  with  the  same  general 
features  between  the  Chena  and  the  Tasnuna  to  Copper  iliver.  The 
area  between  the  Chena  and  the  Tonsena  in  one  direction  and  the  Kanata 
and  the  Copper  in  the  other  consists  of  an  irregular  group  of  rather 
uniformly  high,  close-nested  peaks,  attaining  an  elevation  of  perhaps 
5,000  to  7,000  feet,  and  marked  by  no  heavy  or  regular  drainage  lines. 
This  area  can  not  be  very  iiigged  Oi  difficult  of  access,  as  it  is  crosE  -^d 
by  an  old  Indian  trail  from  Copper  River  to  the  valley  of  the  Kanata 

Westward  of  the  Kanata  is  a  heavy  rangp,  which  is  separated  from 
the  range  adjacent  to  the  Valdez  Glacier  by  the  valley  of  the  Upper 
Chena  on  the  south  and  that  of  Lake  Tonsena  on  the  north.  This  valley 
is  cut  by  a  high  and  difficult  divide,  separating  the  two  valleys  named. 

105 


106 


COPPER  RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


Northward  from  TonseDa  River,  and  extending  eastward  to  the  Wran- 
gell  Mountains,  is  a  great  flat  valley  coveted  with  an  exceedingly  heavy 
deposit  of  gravel  and  glacial  silt,  indicating,  as  has  been  suggested  by 
Scharder  and  others,  that  it  was  at  one  time  the  bed  of  a  great  lake  or 
ai'm  of  the  sea.  This  valley  extends  north  to  the  Mentasta  Range, 
which  forms  the  divide  between  the  Tanana  and  the  Copper,  and  west- 
ward to  u  low  divide  between  the  Copper  and  the  Sushitna.  Through 
this  valley  the  Copper  River  cuts  a  gorge  between  gravel  banks,  at 
places  attaining  a  depth  of  500  feet,  and  lateral  streams  enter  it  through 
corresponding  gorges.  Washing  out  the  finer  material  and  leaving 
behind  the  heavy  glacial  bowlders  makes  the  beds  of  these  streams  so 
full  of  large  bowlders  that  they  are  always  exceedingly  dangerous,  and 
often  f^ntirely  unnavigable  with  boats.  The  bed  of  the  Copper  is  in 
places,  notably  between  the  Gulkana  and  Tazlena,  so  full  of  heavy 
bowlders  that  at  low  water  navigation  by  means  of  small  boats  is  not 
lacking  in  excitement.  These  gorges  add  greatly  hot  only  to  the  diflB- 
culty  of  travel  but  to  that  of  trail  building  or  railroading  or  any 
other  similar  enterprise  in  this  area.  The  Copper  River  follows  the 
eastern  border  of  the  group  of  mountains  south  of  the  Tonsena  to 
Woods  Canyon.  Just  above  this  it  is  joined  to  the  east  by  a  river  of 
about  equal  volume,  known  as  the  Chettyna.  The  Chettyna  River 
follows  the  southern  edge  of  a  broad  valley  which  widens  rapidly 
toward  the  west. 

South  of  this  valley  is  a  group  of  mountains  resembling  in  every 
way  the  group  south  of  the  Tonsena,  of  which  it  is  the  eastern  exten- 
sion. The  Chett3'na  River  rises  at  a  point  about  east  from  its  mouth 
in  a  glacier  descending  from  the  high  range  forming  the  northern 
extension  of  the  St.  Elias  Mountains.  It  is  joined  from  the  south  by 
one  important  branch,  called  by  the  natives  "Tana."  This  river 
rises  far  to  the  south  in  the  Coast  Range  opposite  the  Bering  Glacier. 
From  the  north  the  Chettyna  receives  a  branch  in  volmne  almost  equal 
to  the  other  two,  and  known  as  the  Nezena.  This  rises  in  a  tremen- 
dous glacier  in  the  range  to  the  north  separating  the  Chettyna  from 
the  Tanana  River.  With  its  extremely  wide  flood  plain  and  heavy 
gravel  bars,  the  Chettyna  is  a  typical  glacial  stream.  Its  vallb^'^,  as 
has  been  said,  narrows  toward  the  east  to  a  point  just  below  the  mouth  of 
the  Nezena  and  from  here  it  again  widens  the  area  between  the  Nezena 
and  the  Chettyna  proper,  or  central  branch,  as  it  is  called,  being  a  flat 
plain,  while  the  Lower  Chettyna  flows  between  steep,  high  banks. 
The  valley  between  it  and  the  Blackburn  Mountains  to  the  north  is 
composed  of  irregular  rounded  rocky  hillocks,  with  a  general  east 
!in<l  west  axis,  between  which  are  innumerable  lakes  and  peat  bogs, 
typical  of  a  glaciated  surface. 

Of  the  Wrangell  group  of  mountains,  lying  to  the  north  of  the  Chet- 
tyna and  between  it  and  the  Copper,  the  most  central  and  most  impor- 


OOPPBB  BIVER   EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


107 


loavy 
dby 
keor 


tant  feature  is  Mount  Wrangell,  a  huge,  Hmooth,  slightly  rounded 
dome,  towering  above  all  surrounding  peaks.  The  surface  of  this  is 
covered  with  a  great  thickness  of  ice,  broken  only  by  a  number  of 
small  conical  fumaroles.  To  the  north  and  northwest  of  Mount  Wran- 
gell arc  two  very  prominent  peaks,  known  as  Mount  Sanford  and 
Mount  Drum,  and  to  the  southeast  is  a  peak  known  as  Mount  Black- 
burn. The  latter  presents  a  rounded  mesa  top,  the  remnant  of  a  form 
once  similiar  to  thst  of  Wrangell,  but  now  deeply  indented  by  erosion. 
Mounts  Sanfoixl  and  Drum  have  suffered  even  more  from  erosion; 
Mount  Drum,  in  particular,  presenting  from  the  south  a  jagged, 
crater-like  appearence.  This,  however,  instead  of  being  an  actual 
crater,  is  more  pi-obably  an  example  of  the  amphitheater  form  of 
erosion  due  to  the  local  glaciation.  From  the  north  the  appearance  of 
Mount  Sanford  and  Mount  I>rum  is  almost  identical.  A  divide  con- 
nects Mount  Wrangell  with  Mount  Drum,  and  another  connects  Mount 
Wrangell  with  Mount .  Sanford.  The  basin  between  the  two  gives 
rise  to  the  Sanford  River.  Mount  Drum  is  an  isolated  mountain, 
bordered  on  its  northwestern  side  by  the  great  flat  valley  of  Copper 
River.  To  the  southward  a  series  of  foothills  front  Mount  Wrangell, 
and  these  widen  toward  Mount  Blackburn. 

The  southern  side  of  Mount  Drum  is  drained  by  Knetena  Creek  and 
the  southern  and  western  side  of  Mount  Wrangell  gives  rise  to  the 
Chestaslena,  wbilo  the  area  south  of  this  and  immediately  west  of 
Mount  Blackburn  is  drained  by  the  Kotsena.  This  stream,  heading  at 
Mount  Blackburn  and  flowing  in  a  westerly  direction  through  a  narrow, 
deep  valley,  turns  abruptly  at  the  point  where  it  emerges  from  the 
mountain,  and,  following  the  foot  of  the  mountains  southward  through 
a  narrow  canyon  for  some  miles,  again  turns  westward  and  empties  into 
the  Copper  about  si  mile  alwve  the  mouth  of  the  Chettyna. 

All  of  these  streams  are  mountain  torrent^)  and  unfit  for  canoeing. 
Fronting  Mount  Blackburn  to  the  south  and  west,  for  a  distance  of  15 
to  20  miles,  is  a  group  of  mountains  or  foothills  of  rather  uniform 
elevation  from  5,000  to  7,000  feet.  The  area  southward  from  that 
drained  by  the  Kotsena  River  is  drained  by  the  Kuskulana.  This,  like 
the  Kotsena,  heads  in  a  glacier  descending  directly  from  Mount  Black- 
burn. It  flows  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  emptying  into  the  Chet- 
tyna about  10  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  divide  between  Mount 
Blackburn  and  Mount  Wrangell  is  uniformly  high  and  impassable. 

In  a  direction  a  little  north  of  east  from  Mount  Blackburn  extends 
a  range  a  little  lower  than  Blackburn  itself,  terminating  about  20  miles 
to  the  east  in  a  prominent  peak  called  Mount  Regal.  Teyond  Regal, 
the  range  is  a  little  lower,  and  makes  a  horseshoe  bend  northward  to 
another  group  of  mountains  surrounded  by  a  prominent  peak,  almost 
in  line  with  Mount  Blackburn  and  Mount  Regal.  This:  I  have  called 
Mount  Abercrombie.     In  this  noi  thward  bend  are  two  passes  occupied 


108 


COPPER  BIVEB  XXPLOBINO   EXPEDITION. 


|! 

i, 
H 

1  ; 

i  ! 


by  lobes  of  a  great  glacier,  which  gives  rise  to  the  Nezena  on  one  side 
and  the  Tanana  on  the  other.  The  summit  of  these  glaciers  constitute 
the  lowest  point  in  the  range,  an  eleyation  of  over  8,000  feet.  Mount 
Abercrombie  is  at  the  northern  end  of  the  northern  extension  of  the 
great  St.  Elias  Bange.  The  White  River  heads  in  the  Russell  Gla- 
cier, descending  the  northern  side  of  this  mountain.  It  is  thus  se3m- 
ingly  the  highest  point  on  the  continental  watershed,  giving  rise  to  the 
White,  which  flows  northeast,  the  Tanana  to  the  northwest,  and  the 
Chettyna  toward  the  southwest.  There  is  a  comparatively  low  break 
between  the  head  of  White  River  and  Scholai  Creek,  which  leads  into 
the  Nezena.  Russell  Glacier,  at  the  summit  of  this  pass,  can  be 
crossed  in  half  a  day.  The  pass  between  the  Nezena  and  the  Tanana, 
which  I  have  named  Meiklejohn  Pass,  involves  crossing  a' glacier  47 
miles  long  with  an  8,000-foot  summit. 

A  high  range  extends  a  considerable  distance  eastward  from  Mount 
Abercrombie,  and  forms  the  southern  border  of  the  White  River  Basin. 
To  the  north  of  the  high  i-ange  between  the  Tanana  and  the  Chettyna 
is  a  vallev  about  15  miles  wide,  extending  in  a  northwest-southeast 
direction.  This  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  group  of  mountains, 
which  foiiiis  the  southern  extension  of  the  Mentasta  Range,  fonning 
the  divide  between  the  Copper  and  the  Tanana  rivers.  Both  the  Tanana 
and  the  Nabesna  cut  this  range  through  narrow  gorges.  The  valley 
is  crossed  by  a  range  of  low  hills,  forming  the  divide  between  the 
Tanana  and  the  White,  and  to  the  westward  it  terminates  in  a  narrow 
pass  leading  to  the  valley  of  the  Nabesna.  the  great  western  branch  of 
the  Tanana,  which  drains  the  triangular  area  between  Mounts  Wran- 
gell,  Blackburn,  and  Regal,  the  area  which  has  general!}'  been  con- 
sidered the  drainage  basin  of  the  Copper  River. 

The  valley  of  this  stream  is  separated  from  that  of  the  Copper  River 
by  a  range  of  mountains  attaining  a  height  of  5,000  to  6,000  feet,  which 
extends  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  Mount  Wrangell  and  Mouu., 
Sanford ,  finally  merging  into  the  Mentasta  Mountains.  Mount  San- 
ford  is  fronted  to  the  northeast  and  east  by  a  group  of  jagged  moun- 
tains suimounted  by  several  rather  prominent  peaks.  Between  these 
and  the  Mentasta  lUnge,  and  north  of  the  Nabrana  Divide,  is  the  head 
of  the  Copper  River  Valley,  a  rather  flat  area  studded  with  innu- 
merable lakes  and  bogs.  Several  lakes  attaining  considerable  size  are 
named  by  the  natives  Tanada,  Zachnada,  Tetrachara,  and  Suslota. 

Streams  from  these  lakes  drain  into  the  Copper  River.  This  river, 
about  6  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the  S^ahna,  divides  into  two 
forks  of  about  equal  volume.  One  of  these  flows  in  a  northerly  direc- 
tion from  the  foothills  of  Mount  Sanford,  and  the  origin  of  the  other 
is  in  a  glacier  further  southeast.  -  Whether  this  breaks  through  the 
Nabesna  Range  and  flows  from  a  glacier  descending  from  Mount 
Wrangell,  or  whether  the  glacier  in  which  it  heads  descends  from  the 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORINQ    EXPEDITION. 


109 


the 


easterly  slope  of  Mount  Sanford,  I  was  unable  to  determine,  but  it  is 
probably  the  latter.  The  drainage  basin  of  the  head  of  the  Copper  River 
is,  therefore,  very  much  more  limited  than  was  formerly  supposed, 
and  the  area  east  of  Wmngell  Mountains,  that  had  formerly  been  con- 
sidered as  belonging  to  the  Copper,  in  i-eality  belongs  to  the  Tanana. 

The  Nabesna  Divide  is  cut  by  three  easy  passes,  suitable  alike  for 
horse  trail  and  railroad.  The  Nabesna-Tanana  Divide  is  crossed  by  a 
pass  somewhat  more  difficult,  but  the  Tanana- White  Divide  is  merely 
a  range  of  hills.  The  area  is  therefore  very  accessible,  and  affords  an 
easy  route  from  the  valley  of  the  Copper  to  the  valley  of  the  Yukon. 
The  Nutzotin  Mountains,  the  easterly  end  of  the  Mentasta  Range,  are 
jagged  mountains,  characteristic  of  highly  inclined  bedded  roclis. 
North  of  their  intersection  by  the  valley  of  the  Nabesna,  they  become 
more  regular.  Back  from  the  Copper  River,  between  the  Slahna  and 
Chestochena,  is  a  range  of  low,  rounded  hills.  In  the  direction  of  the 
head  of  the  Chestochena  very  high  snow-capped  peaks  are  seen. 
These,  probably,  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Kimball,  in  the  range 
bordering  on  the  Tanana  Valley.  In  descending  the  Copper,  after 
passing  the  Slahna  River,  which  is  a  stream  of  considerable  volume 
entering  the  Copper  from  the  neighborhood  of  Mentasta  Pass,  the 
next  stream  of  importance  is  the  Chestochena.  This  is  a  swift  stream 
of  considerable  volume,  rising  in  the  Alaskan  Range  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Mount  Kimball. 

The  area  between  the  Chestochena  and  the  Tazlena  is  drained  by  two 
small  streams  known  as  the  Gakona  and  the  Gulkana.  From  the  south- 
erly side  the  one  important  stream  entering  Copper  River  is  the  San- 
ford, which  empties  into  the  Copper  about  15  miles  below  the  Ches- 
tochena. Beginning  some  miles -above  the  mouth  of  the  Slahna  to  a 
point  some  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Sanford,  the  Copper  River  is 
very  wide  and  spreads  over  what,  in  connection  with  Alaskan  streams, 
are  called  snag  flats.  At  the  point  named,  above  tb^  Sanford,  it  gath- 
ers into  a  single  channel,  and  does  not  again  spread  very  much  except 
for  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Gulkana. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  the  summer's  work  was  our 
inability  to  find  and  locate  the  mountain  mapped  as  Mount  Tillman.  In 
coming  down  the  Copper  River  from  the  north.  Mount  Wrangell  is 
visible  between  Mount  Sanford  and  Mount  Drum  at  a  point  opposite 
the  mouth  of  Sanford  River.  From  here  Mount  Drum  masks  Mount 
Wrangell,  and  the  latter,  i^in  becomes  visible  at  a  point  a  few  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Tazlena.  On  the  day  we  came  down  the  Cop- 
per River  an  eruption  took  place  which  left  no  doubt  whatever  that 
this  is  Mount  Wrangell.  At  Copper  Center,  Mount  Drum  completely 
masks  Mount  Sanford,  and  from  this  point  the  only  mountains  visible 
were  Mount  Drum,  Mount  Wrangfell,  and  Mount  Blackburn.  *In 
descending  Copper  River  from  Copper  Center  a  mountain  a-^fain 


110 


COPPER   BIVKR   EXPLOBIWO   EXPEDITION. 


be<5ome8  viHible  between  Drum  and  Wrangell.  Were  it  not  xor  the 
fact  that  it  is  masked  b}'  Drum  at  Copper  Center  this  mountiiin  might 
easily  be  considered  south  of  Drum  and  between  it  and  Wrangell.  It 
is  highly  probable  that  in  ascending  Copper  River,  Lieutenant  Allen 
got  only  occasional  glimpses  of  these  several  peaks,  and  that  owing  to 
an  error  in  observing  bearings,  or  to  this  deceptive  position  of  Mount 
Sanford,  he  considered  it  a  peak  south  of  Mount  Drum.  Such  an 
error  might  very  readily  be  made.  However,  in  yie^v  of  the  cai-e  with 
which  we  studied  the  position  of  these  mountains  in  traveling  from 
the  Siahna  to  Tonsena  Lake,  and  the  great  number  of  clear  days  which 
enabled  us  to  see  them  from  all  positions,  I  have  little  hesitation  in 
saying  that  there  are  only  four  mountains,  and  that  the  location  of 
Mount  Tillman  on  the  map  is  an  evror. 

MINERAL  RESOURCES. 

Copper. — ^The  copper  in  the  interior  of  Alaska  has  this  year,  for  the 
first  time,  attracted  the  attention  of  prospectors,  and,  as  a  result  of 
the  season's  work,  rich  finds  are  reported  on  the  Chettyna  and  Kotsena 
and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Tanana  and  White  rivers.  How  far 
these  reports  are  reliable  remains  for  future  developments  to  show. 
Nicolai,  the  Copper  River  chief,  who  is  responsibls  for  most  of  the 
earlier  reports  of  copper  on  the  Chettyna,  for  the  first  time  disclosed 
the  location  of  the  vein  from  which  he  secured  the  samples  of  ore 
which  he  displayed.  This  vein  is  located  on  a  small  creek  emptying 
into  McCarthy  Creek  and  between  it  and  the  Nezena  River.  This  is  a 
true  vein  deposit  in  a  fissure,  probably  due*  tO'  faulting.  The  main 
body  of  the  ore  is  bornite.  It  occurs  in  a  dark-green  amygdaloidal 
diabase  near  the  contact  of  the  same  with  a  heavy  limestone  bed.  The 
diabase  seems  to  be  irregularly  bedded  and  can  be  traced  for  miles  in 
both  directions.  The  persistence  and  uniformity  with  which  the  dia- 
base is  found  associated  with  the  Hmestone  bed  above  it  would  tend 
to  indicate  that  it  is  extrusive  in  origin,  with  the  limestone  conformably 
upon  it.  The  limestone  is  the  same  as  that  noted  by  Dr.  Hayes  on  the 
Nezena  River,  a.id  which  he  referred  to  as  the  Carboniferous.  (See 
maps  and  descriptions  of  routes  of  explorations  in  Alaska  in  1898; 
U.  S.  Government  Survey,  1899,  p.  58.)  The  diabases  resemble  to  a 
very  marked  degree  the  Keweenawan  copper-bearing  rocks  of  Lake 
Superior.  The  contact  between  this  limestone  and  the  diabases  and 
the  diffcvent  outcrop  of  the  same  from  Root  glacier  to  the  eastern 
side  of  the  Nezena  River  has  been  noted  in  the  preceding  section.  In 
view  of  the  fact  that  this  deposit,  probably  the  largest  known  in  the 
area,  is  found  in  association  with  diabases  similar  to  those  which  in 
other  areas  are  known  to  carry  large  quantities  of  copper,  makeH  it 
probable  that  these  diabases  are  the  source  of  the  copper  in  this  area. 
The  general  strike  of  the  outcrop  makes  it  possible  Uiat  the  very  sim- 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORINO   EXPEDITION. 


Ill 


ilsr  diabases  at  the  head  of  the  Kotsena  River  belong  to  the  name 
series.  The  heavy  limestone  bed,  however,  does  not  appear  on  the 
Kotsena. 

None  of  the  locations  made  at  the  head  of  the  Xanana  or  the  White 
were  visited,  but  fragments  of  rook,  heavily  copper  stained  and 
impregnated  with  native  copper,  were  found  in  several  places,  partic- 
ularly in  the  pass  from  the  Tanana  to  the  Nabesna  rivers.  Here  the 
rock  seemed  to  be  a  later  volcanic,  which,  as  in  the  Nicolai  location, 
was  much  fractured,  faulted,  and  associated  with  sedimentary  rock. 
The  Indians  on  the  Nabesna  had  bullets,  knives,  and  arrow  points 
made  of  native  copper.  They  explained  that  they  got  these  at  four 
different  places,  one  on  a  tributary  of  the  White  River,  probably  the 
one  which  Dr.  Hayes  visited  and  which  he  found  to  be  a  copper 
placer.  The  others  were  farther  west  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Tan- 
ana  and  the  Nabesna.  Whether  these  were  also  placer  deposits  could 
not  be  determined.  The  frequent  copper  stains  on  the  rocks  and  the 
many  different  point<s  at  which  copper  has  been  found  leave  little 
doubt  that  there  is  copp«r  disseminated  through  some  formation  in  the 
area,  but  whether  this  exists  anywhere  in  workable  quantities  remains 
to  be  proven. 

At  the  head  of  the  Kotsena  and  in  the  area  about  Mount  Wrangell 
diabase  dikes  frequently  carry  a  very  large  quantity  of  ii'on  sulphides, 
seemingly  as  original  rock  constituents,  but  probably  as  impregna- 
tions. The  same  impregnation  of  the  iron  sulphide  was  found  in 
many  of  the  larger  masses  of  acid  volcanics,  notably  the  boss-like 
mass  of  granitic  porphyry,  south  of  the  pass  by  which  we  left  the 
Kuskulana  River.  It  is  not  impossible  that  these  pyrites  ma}'  carry 
copper  and  in  some  cases  silver  and  gold.  Should  they  be  found  to  do 
this,  they  will  prove  to  be  of  great  economic  importance,  as  the  ledges 
are  sometimes  very  large.  Specimens  of  these  rocks  were  collected, 
but  assays  of  them  have  not  as  yet  been  completed. 

Several  ledges  are  reported  to  have  been  located  on  the  lower  Kus- 
kulana, where  it  cuts  the  metamorphosed  sedimentaries  of  the  lower 
Ghettyna  Valley.  It  is  not  impossible  that  gold  may  be  found  in  the 
metamorphosed  shales  and  slates  uf  this  area. 

The  occurrence  of  veinlets  of  cinnabar  and  sulphur  at  the  head  of 
the  Kotsena  River  has  been  noted  in  the  preceding  chapter. 

While  workable  ore  deposits  have  not  been  shown  to  exist  by  actual 
exploitation,  the  information  collected  shows  the  area  to  be  a  mineral- 
ized one  and  one  favorable  to  mineral  concentration,  an  area,  therefore, 
warranting  a  detailed  economic  survey. 

Ptacer  deposits. — ^The  most  promising  discoveries  of  placer  gold  in 
the  Copper  River  country  to  the  pi'esent  time  are  those  of  Quartz 
Creek,  Fall  Creek,  and  the  Chestochena  River.  "".Vhile  some  good, 
coarse  gold  has  been  taken  out  of  both  Quartz  and  Fall  creeks,  these 


112 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


areas  are  as  yet  entirely  undeveloped,  and  it  remains  to  be  proven 
whether  or  not  they  will  bo  found  payint;.  The  formation  underlying 
these  is  the  same  and  corresponds  to  that  named  by  Schrador  the 
Klutena  Series,  which  he  suggests  resembles  in  many  respects  the 
Forty-Mile  Series  of  the  Yukon  district. 

The  continuation  of  this  series  of  rock  was  not  traced,  but  it  prob- 
ably is  not  limited  by  the  area  thus -far  outlined. 

Of  the  Chestoihena  River  very  little  is  known  other  than  ibhat  the 
prospectors  who  returned  late  in  the  past  season  reported  the  discovery 
of  prospects  to  which  they  intend  to  return  in  the  spring.  The  reported 
discovery  of  platinum  placers  caused  a  rush  to  Mount  Drum  last  year, 
and  a  second  one  at  the  opening  of  the  present  season.  So  far  as 
known,  however,  no  platinum  has  been  found. 

NARRATIVE  AND  ITINERARY. 

The  discovery  and  development  of  copper  claims  on  Prince  William 
Sound  revived  an  interest  in  the  numerous  reports  from  different 
sources,  some  of  which  date  back  to  Russian 'times,  representing  the 
country  drained  by  the  head  waters  of  the  Chettyna,  Tanana,  White, 
and  Copper  rivei*s,  rich  in  mineral  deposits  and  particularly  those  of 
native  copper.  This,  together  with  its  apparent  rugged  and  volcanic 
nature,  conditions  not  unfavorable  to  mineral  concentration,  made  this 
ai*ea  the  objective  point  of  most  of  the  prospectors  who  remained  in 
the  Copper  River  country  during  the  season  of  1899.  Beyond  the 
information  contained  in  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Allen,  who  ascended 
the  Chettyna  to  the  Nicolai  house  and  the  Copper  to  Batzulnetas,  and 
of  Lieutenant  Schwatka  and  Dr.  C.  Willard  Hayes,  who  crossed  the 
range  by  the  Indian  portage  from  the  White  to  the  Chettyna  rivers, 
nothing  definite  was  known  of  the  areas.  Various  vi^ue  Pind  conflict- 
ing reports  were  in  circulation  among  prospectors,  some  maiming  that 
the  Copper  above  its  confluence  with  the  Slahna  is  a  very  small  stream 
and  drains  a  very  limited  area,  and  others,  including  all  published 
maps  of  the  area,  giving  to  it  the  entire  drainage  basin  east  of  the 
Wrangell  Mountains  and  north  of  the  Chettyna  Valley.  One  widely 
circulated  story  reported  the  Copper  as  disappearing^nder,  and  later 
again  emerging  from  a  great  glacier  descending  the  side  of  Mount 
Wrangell.  These  conditions  made  it  exceedingly  important  to  the 
development  of  the  country  and  to  the  work  of  prospectors  engaged 
therein,  that  this  area  should  be  thoroughly  explored  and  its  geography 
deteionined.  Under  orders  from  you  I  undertook  to  do  this  during 
the  past  season.  The  instructions  embraced  in  your  order  were  to 
work  up  the  valley  of  the  Chettyna  with  pack  horses,  and  while  doing 
so  examine  the  divide  bounding  it  on  the  north  for  a  possible  opportu- 
nify  to  cross  it;  such  an  opportunity  appearing,  to  cross  the  divide  to 
the  head  of  the  Copper  River  and  work  down  the  same,  assuming,  of 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDiriON. 


118 


course,  the  generally  accepted  notion  that  the  drainage  of  the  Copper 
bounded  that  of  the  Chettyna.  If  it  were  found  impossible  to  crons 
the  divide  with  the  pack  train,  the  same  was  to  turn  back  and  the 
journey  be  continued  with  the  dog  train,  which  was  taken  for  that  pur- 
pose. In  addition  to  making  a  general  topographic  reconnaissance 
map  of  the  area,  I  was  instructed  to  stud}'  its  geology  an(^  mineral 
resources  as  thoroughly  us  conditions  would  permit. 

The  party  consisted  of  two  packers,  J.  V.  Place  and  Archibald 
Crawford,  to  handle  the  pack  train,  and  John  Fohlin  to  handle  the 
team,  consisting  of  nine  dogs.  The  provisions  selected  were  calculated 
to  last  four  men  one  hundred  and  fifty  days,  and  in  addition  to  t^e  regu- 
lar camp  outfit  we  carried  two  11-foot  King  canvas  folding  canoes  for 
crossing  glacial  streams  too  deep  for  the  horses  to  ford.  This  precaution 
was  deemed  very  important,  in  view  of  the  difficulty  in  crossing  glacial 
streams  experienced  by  the  Schroder  party  and  the  serious  accident 
that  befell  it  in  attempting  to  cross  Tonsena  River  on  the  previous 
year.  Unfortunately,  but  five  horses  could  be  spared  for  this  work, 
but  additional  horses  and  packers  were  detailed  to  assist  in  crossing 
the  coast  mountains.  The  necessity  of  waiting  for  the  completion  of 
the  trail  through  the  Keystone  Canyon  delayed  our  start  until  the 
18th  of  June.  At  camp  2,  at  the  foot  of  Keystone  Canyon,  which  we 
left  on  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  June,  we  were  joined  by  Rice's 
party  conveying  Mail  Inspector  Wayland  from  Valdez  to  Eagle  City, 
on  the  Yukon;  the  party  of  Mail  Contractor  Holman  and  two  pros- 
pecting parties,  one  McCarthy's  and  the  other  Young  and  Downing's. 
From  the  end  of  the  trail  through  Keystone  Canyon  we  proceeded  up 
the  gravel  flats  of  Lowe  River  to  the  Government  cabin.  From  here 
we  went,  in  one  day,  down  to  the  Chena  River,  where  we  found 
encamped  a  number  of  prospecting  parties  who  had  come  in  early  in 
the  season.  Airong  them  were  the  parties  of  McClellan,  Amy,  Mil- 
lard, and  others.  They  joined  the  caravan  which  was  following  us 
into  the  interior.  From  here,  after  going  down  the  gravel  flats  of  the 
river  some  3  miles,  we  were  obliged  to  make  a  trail  along  the  south- 
erly bank  of  the  stream  for  a  distance  of  8  or  10  miles.  Then 
we  crossed  the  stream  at  a  point  where  it  was  spreading  and  shallow, 
and  continued  down  its  northerly  bank  some  3  or  4  miles  farther, 
making  our  way  through  a  gap  in  the  range  to  a  point  on  Stuart 
River  some  distance  above  its  mouth. 

Traveling  was  very  difficult,  and  we  were  four  days  in  making  the 
distance  from  the  first  camp  on  the  Chena  to  the  mouth  of  Stuart 
River.  The  river  breaks  through  five  different  box  canyons,  and  the 
banks  are  everywhere  rugged  and  precipitous.  It  seemed  to  me  that 
the  best  route  for  a  permanent  trail  would  be  to  keep  from  the  Lowe 
River  divide  along  the  foothills  on  the  right,  keeping  down  the  right 
bank  of  the  Chena  for  a  distance  of  some  8  miles,  where  it  flows 
S.  Doc.  306 8 


F 


114 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


through  a  narrow,  rocky  jforgi',  that  n  whort  bridge  would  .span,  and 
thiMi  (continue  down  the  northerly  liank  of  the  river  through  a  gap  by 
which  \\v  reached  the  8t«?wart  River.  This  river,  juHt  above  the  point 
at  which  we  cro.s.sed,  flows  Ijetween  two  projecting  piiints,  which  a 
short  bridge  would  span.  These  facts  1  reported  to  you  from  Quartz 
Creek.  Froui  Stt^wart  liiver  we  followed  the  right  Imnk  of  the  Kanata 
to  liowlder  Creek,  where  we  camped.  It  was  reported  that  a  low 
divide  led  from  the  head  of  the  Kanata  to  the  southerly  branch  of  the 
Tonsena,  but  we  were  unable  to  find  anyone  who  would  give  us  any 
definite  information  regarding  this  route;  and  whereas  it  probably 
involved  much  trail  cutting  and  possibly  considerably  swampy  ground, 
I  preferred  to  go  over  the  known  route  by  way  of  Quartz  Creek. 
Ac(!ordingly,  we  followed  the  left  bank  of  Bowlder  Creek  up  the  moun- 
tain side  to  an  elevation  of  about  2,000  feet,  and  then  traveled  along  a 
l>ench  above  timber  line  to  the  Quartz  Creek  Divide.  We  found  this 
divide,  as  we  had  the  Low  River  Divide,  almost  free  from  snow,  but 
exceedinglj'  soft  and  miry.  Nevertheless,  we  managed  to  make  the 
distance  from  Bowlder  Creek  to  the  confluence  of  Bear  and  Quartz 
creeks  in  one  day. 

From  here  one  day^s  trip  took  us  to  Tonsena  Lake,  a  distance  of 
about  7  miles.  The  best  information  I  could  get  led  me  to  believe 
that  the  Indian  trail  eastward  from  Tonsena  Lake  led  to  the  Stickwan 
house  on  Copper  River,  a  few  miles  south  of  Copper  Center.  In  view 
of  this,  and  the  fact  that  the  pack  trail  would  have  to  make  a  relay 
trip,  I  decided  to  send  it  over  the  known  trail  to  Copper  Center  with 
the  first  loads,  and  while  it  was  making  this  trip  Fohlin  and  I  would 
explore  the  trail  to  Copper  River.  We  found  that  this  trail,  after  fol- 
lowing the  Tonsena  River  in  a  general  way  for  about  25  miles,  led 
away  from  the  river  in  an  easterly  direction,  reaching  Copper  River 
at  a  point  about  8  miles  above  the  moi.th  of  the  Tonsena.  The 
trail  was  very  indistinct  and  very  difilcult  to  follow  in  places.  I 
therefore  sent  Fohlin  back  to  mark  it  thoroughly,  trim  it  out  where 
necessary,  and  guide  the  pack  train  over  it  when  it  returned  to  Ton- 
sena Lake. 

While  this  was  being  done  I  undertook  a  side  trip  up  the  Kotsena 
River,  which  was  at  this  time  attracting  much  attention.  I  arranged 
to  travel  with  two  prospectors,  Millard  and  Warner,  who  were  on 
their  way  to  locate  a  copper  vein  regarding  which  they  had  informa- 
tion. I  wished  verj'  much  to  see  this  vein  in  order  to  studj  the  con- 
dition under  which  the  copper  occurred.  We  went  down  the  Copper 
River  some  15  miles  by  boat  to  Indian  Bellum's  house.  From  here  a 
good  trail  leads  to  the  point  where  the  Kotsena  River  emerges  from 
the  mountain.  After  going  to  this  place  we  continued  on  up  the 
river,  passing  several  prospecting  camps  on  the  way.  When  approach- 
ing the  head  of  the  river  we  met  about  a  dozen  men  who  had  just 


■■ 


■■■ 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


115 


abandoned  their  canipd  and  were  on  tboir  way,  to  Valdois.  Theue  men 
had  sledded  their  outfits  from  Copper  Center  up  iho  valley  of  the 
Lebigstag  and  over  the  divide  separating  this  from  tlie  KotMcna,  early 
in  the  season,  in  an  effort  to  cross  the  range  lietwecn  Mount  WrangcU 
and  Mount  Blaclcburn,  and  thereby  reach  what  they  supposed  to  lie 
the  head  waters  of  the  Copper.  This  they  found  tti  l»e  impossible,  and 
they  had  found  no  prospects  whatever  of  placer  gold  on  the  Kotsena; 
so  that,  disappointed,  they  abandoned  everything,  and  were  taking 
with  them  only  enough  clothes  and  provisions  to  enable  them  to  reach 
Valdez.  I  engaged  one  of  these  men  to  go  with  me  to  the  Chettyna 
and  from  there  to  take  a  letter  to  you. 

After  spending  three  days  at  the  head  of  the  stream  in  mapping  the 
surroundings  and  examining  the  rocks,  1  started  l>ack  down  the  river. 
1  left  the  foot  of  the  Tonsena  trail  on  the  1st  of  July  and  returned  to  that 
point  on  the  10th.  The  next  day,  with  the  help  of  some  Indian  guides, 
we  cut  a  short  trail  connecting  the  Tonsena  trail  with  the  Schrader  trail 
leading  down  the  Copper  along  the  top  of  the  bluff,  and  over  this 
we  took  the  pack  train,  which  arrived  later  in  the  day,  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Tonsena  River.  Here  we  spent  a  day  repairing  the  outfit  and 
seeking  the  best  place  for  crossing  the  horses.  The  river  was  here 
wide  and  swift  and  full  of  treacherous  quicksands,  and  the  water  at 
this  season  of  the  year  was  very  cold.  By  picking  the  way  carefully 
and  swimming  the  horses  across  one  of  several  channels  at  a  time,  and 
giving  them  time  to  rest  on  the  bars  between,  we  succeeded  in  cross- 
ing without  the  loss  of  a  single  one. 

From  this  place  our  goods  were  carried  down  the  river  in  a  boat 
which  I  secured  from  the  natives,  a,\  «ve  took  the  horses  down  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  river  to  the  Chettyna,  which  we  reached  two  days 
later.  An  Indian  trail  leads  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  river  most 
of  this  distance,  and  had  we  not  improved  it  considerably  in  places  it 
would  have  been  impassable  for  the  horses,  and  even  then  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  have  taken  them  over  it  had  they  been  loaded. 
I  learned  from  the  natives  that  an  old  Indian  trail  led  up  the  northerly 
side  of  the  Chettyna  River  some  five  or  six  days'  travel,  but  none  of 
the  Indians  I  had  met  thus  far  knew  of  this  trail,  and  it  took  us  three 
days  to  find  one  who  was  familiar  with  it.  He  lived  on  the  westerly 
side  of  Copper  River  some  4  or  5  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chet- 
tyna. After  much  coaxing  and  many  promises  he  finally  consented  to 
go  as  our  guide. 

On  leaving  Valdez  we  took  about  200  pounds  of  dried  fish  for  dog 
food,  hoping  to  be  ali^e  to  get  all  we  needed  from  the  natives  along  the 
Copper  and  Chettyna  rivers.  In  this  I  was  disappointed,  and,  being 
unable  to  secure  food  for  them,  I  had  to  abandon  the  plan  of  taking  the 
dogs  further.    One  of  them  had  become  exhausted  on  reaching  Quartz 


116 


OOPPKR   RIVKR   KXPLORINO   EXPEDITION, 


11 


Creek  and  another  had  run  away  at  Tonsona  Lake.  The  remaining 
Hoven  I  Hent  with  UothkrantK,  instnictin);  him  to  take  them  to  Copper 
Center  and  turn  them  over  to  Private  Hallett,  in  oharf^o  of  the  Govern- 
ment Mtation  there.  Extra  help  for  cutting  trail  and  the  numerous 
guidefl  we  had  engaged  had  reduced  our  rations  somewhat,  and  these  I 
replaced  from  the  cAche  of  McCarthy,  of  whom  I  also  engaged  four 
horses.  Two  of  our  horses  were  hurt  and  became  useless.  We  there- 
fore left  the  mouth  of  the  Chettyna  with  seven  horses  available  for 
carrying  packs. 

From  McCarthy's  cache  on  the  Chettyna,  about  3  miles  above  its 
mouth,  which  we  left  on  Friday,  July  21,  we  followed  the  banks  of 
the  Chettyna  to  camp  2,  a  distance  of  about  8  miles.  The  river  bank 
here  is  very  high  and  very  rough,  and  the  l)cst  trail  we  were  able  to 
make  was  exceedingly  rough  and  difficult  for  traveling.  Had  it  not 
been  for  the  high  water  we  could  have  avoided  this  by  traveling  uy> 
the  Imrs  of  the  river.  While  I  was  looking  up  the  Indian  guide  the 
packers  had  made  a  relay  trip  with  provisions  to  this  point.  We 
cached  one-half  of  our  outfit  here,  and  continued  with  the  rest,  which 
was  all  our  horses  could  carry.  The  old  Indian  trail  begins  at  camp 
2,  and  from  here  leads  away  from  the  river  at  nearly  right  angles  to 
its  course. 

We  found  the  country  back  from  the  river  rolling  and  covered  with 
boggy  fnarshes  and  small  lakes,  making  it  necessary  for  the  trail  to 
meander  very  much  at  times.  One  day's  trip  took  us  to  the  lianks  of 
the  Sterlina,  a  distance  along  the  trail  of  about  12  miles,  and  another 
day  took  us  well  up  into  the  mountains  along  the  westerly  bank  of  the 
Kuskulana.  This  stream  which  we  found  to  be  a  swift,  glacial  stream 
of  about  the  size  of  the  Kotsena  and  Tonsena,  was  too  deep  to  ford. 
We  were  therefore  obliged  to  continue  up  its  right  bank  to  a  point 
.  about  a  mile  below  the  glacier  in  which  it  heads.  Here  it  spreads  into 
many  channels  and  we  forded  it  without  difficulty. 

Instead  of  retracing  ou^*  steps  down  the  left  bank  of  the  valley  as  I 
expected  we  would  do,  the  Indian  trail  turned  into  a  narrow  gap  in  the 
mountains  on  the  easterly  side  of  the  river.  This  route  afforded  us  a 
splendid  opportunity  for  the  work  we  were  doing,  and,  if  it  lead 
through  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Chettyna,  would  be  an  ideal  one. 
We  were  unable  to  learn  from  the  guide  anything  regarding  it  except 
that "  it  went  a  long  ways,"  and  that  it  was  passible  for  horses.  Trust- 
ing that  it  would  enable  us  to  reach  the  upper  waters  of  the  Chettyna, 
we  followed  it.  We  camped  that  night  at  timber  line,  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  east  of  the  Kuskulana.  Horse  feed  was  scarce  here,  and  our 
horses  for  the  first  time  on  the  trip  turned  back,  and  were  not  over- 
taken by  the  packers  until  late  on  the  following  afternoon. 

From  the  Kuskulana  to  this  camp  the  trail  was  rather  steep  in 
places,  and  somewhat  difficult,  and  it  required  considerable  improve- 


OOPPKR  RIVRR   EXPLORINO   EXPEDITIOlf. 


117 


ainingf 
'opper 
ovorn- 
orous 
hotjo  1 
four 
there- 
)le  for 

ve  its 

ik8  of 

bank 

bin  to 

it  not 

ing  uf» 

de  the 

.    We 

which 


mcnt.  FroMi  tho  <rainp  on,  the  gmdo  m>niino  oiwior  to  the  divido, which 
wc  ci'OHHed  without  much  difficulty.  Aft4;r  croHHing  a  Hinall  valley 
drained  by  a  Htroam  which  flowed  through  a  narrow  fmp  in  the  moun- 
taiuH  to  the  Houthward,  which  I  called  Fitch  Creek,  we  enttM'ed  a  broiul, 
open  valley  transverHe  to  the  drainage  of  the  coiuitry.  Thiu  waM  mo 
boggy  that  the  Indian  trail  led  along  itH  Houthern  edge,  and  after  fol- 
lowing it  for  a  distance  of  5  or  6  milcH  timed  abruptly  acroH^  a  Hpur 
of  the  inount4iinH  and  entered  a  valley  to  the  Houtbward.  From  this 
point  where  the  Indian  trail  turned  off  there  wax  liefore  uh  transvorHC 
to  the  genonvl  direction  in  which  we  had  lx)en  traveling,  a  broad,  open 
valley  occupied  by  a  Ktream  which,  heading  in  a  glacier  to  the  north, 
followed  thin  valley  for  Kome  miloH,  and  at  a  point  al>out  opposite  uh 
turned  abruptly  and  continued  in  the  direction  we  had  l>een  traveling. 

To  the  north  of  the  gap  through  which  thin  river  flowed  wiw  another 
occupied  by  a  small  stream  emptying  into  the  river  Through  this  it 
seemed  to  me  highly  probable  that  we  could  make  our  way.  The 
stream  Iwfore  us  was  called  by  the  Indian  the  I^chena,  and  he  told  us 
that  the  trail  led  to  his  salmon  ca(;he  on  this  stream,  a  short  distan<« 
al»ove  the  point  where  it  enters  the  Chettyna.  The  Indian  knew  noth- 
ing of  the  valley  to  the  northeast  and  could  not  t(>ll  me  whether  it 
would  l)e  possible  to  get  through  it  with  the  horses. 

After  spending  a  day  looking  up  the  trail  and  convincing  myself  that 
it  would  lead  too  far  south  for  our  purpose  wo  made  our  way  over 
much  boggy  and  swampy  ground  to  the  elbow  in  the  Ijachena.  Since 
it  was  necessary  to  make  a  relay  trip  for  provisions  I  dctiided  to  send 
the  pack  train  back  from  here  for  this  purpose,  and  l)efore  going 
farther  with  the  pack  train  to  explore  ahead  and  determine  whether  it 
would  be  possible  to  go  through  the  valley.  The  two  disabled  horses 
were  now  so  much  improved  that  they  were  able  to  carry  light  loads 
and,  loading  the  necessary  supplies  and  camp  outfit  on  these,  Fohlin 
and  I  went  ahead  while  the  pack  train  made  the  relay  trip. 

At  the  end  of  five  days  we  made  a  trail  up  the  valley  a  distance  of 
about  16  miles,  and  encamped  on  the  divide.  Here  1  spent  several  days 
on  topographic  work.  From  one  peak,  which  1  occupied  for  this  pur- 
pose, I  saw  that  the  valley  we  were  in  narrowed  down  a  canyon  which 
led  out  into  a  broad,  open  valley,  occupied  by  a  huge  glacier,  the  fooi 
of  which  I  could  not  see.  We  were  traveling  along  the  most  favorable 
route  for  the  work  we  were  doing,  and  I  decided  to  continue  and  work 
our  way  out  along  the  glacier,  and  if  we  could  not  succeed  in  this,  to 
attempt  to  cross  it.  We  exr  ^.lujced  some  difficulty  in  working  down 
the  canyon,  but  succeeded  in  uiaking  a  trail  over  which  we  took  the  pack 
train  later  without  accident. 

.  While  working  mr  way  down  along  the  right-hand  side  of  the  gla- 
cier, which  we  found  very  slow  work  on  account  of  the  rough  ground 
bad  heavy  brush,  we  were  overtaken  by  the  pack  train.    On  our  return 


118 


COPPER   EIVER   EXPLOBINO   EXPEDITION. 


to  McCarthy's  cache,  the  latter  had  retained  the  horses  which  I  had 
engaged  of  him,  so  that  our  pack  tmin  was  reduced.  The  packers  had 
brought  all  the  provisions  they  could  to  the  Lachena,  and  there  cached 
what  they  were  unable  to  bring  farther.  They  had  left  at  McCarthy's 
one  of  the  folding  canvas  boats  which  we  had  brought  for  crossing  gla- 
cial streams  and  running  down  Copper  River.  We  managed  with  much 
difficulty,  but  without  any  serious  accident,  to  get  our  horses  around 
the  foot  of  the  glacier.  From  Mount  Blackburn  eastward  there  had 
been  no  break  whatever  in  the  extremely  high  range  along  which  we 
had  traveled.  A  short  distance  ahead,  however,  there  appeared  to  be 
two  lower  gaps  in  it,  which  I  had  hoped  to  reach  by  going  up  the  next 
valley  beyond  the  one  occupied  by  the  glacier.  This  valley  was  occupied 
by  a  small  stream  which  empties  into  the  gUicial  stream  just  below  the 
foot  of  the  glacier.  Three  days  sufficed  to  take  us  up  this  stream, 
which  I  called  McCarthy  Creek,  to  its  head,  a  distance  of  some  18  or  20 
miles,  liain}'  weather  had  set  in,  and  fogs  and  low-hanging  clouds  pre- 
venttid  me  from  getting  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country  for  three 
days.  When  T  could  see  I  found  that  the  head  of  this  valley  still 
abutted  the  high  ridge  and  that  it  was  the  second  valley  to  the  east 
that  led  to  the  seeming  break  in  the  ridge. 

There  was  no  way  of  getting  through  into  the  valley  to  the  east  from 
this  point,  and  we  were  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps  down  the  creek  8 
or  9  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Nicolai  Creek,  so  named  because  it  lies  on 
a  copper  vein  from  which  Chief  Nicolai  got  the  specimens  which  he 
displayed,  and  the  location  of  which  he  refused  to  disclose  until 
this  3^ear.  At  this  point  there  is  a  break  in  the  ridge  to  the  east 
through  which  I  hoped  to  be  able  to  go.  Cloudy  weather  again 
delayed  us,  but  when  it  deai'ed  I  found  that  the  next  valley  to  the  east 
was  occupied  by  the  Nezena,  a  great  northern  fork  of  the  Chettyna, 
and  that  this  stream  headed  some  12  to  15  miles  to  the  north  in  a  great 
glacier,  one  summit  of  which  was  in  plain  view,  and  was  not  more 
than  30  miles  awaj'.  A  careful  examination  of  this  glacier,  with  the 
powerful  glasses  I  carri-Ml,  inclined  me  to  believe  that  it  might  be 
possible  to  make  our  way  over  it. 

In  addition  to  this  summit  there  was  another,  reached  by  the  lobe 
of  the  glacier  which  joined  from  the  west.  Eastward  was  an  extremely 
high  ridge  surmounted  by  a  very  prominent  peak,  which  1  named 
Mount  Abercrombie.  It  was  plain  that  the  only  possible  opportunity 
for  crossing  the  ridge  to  the  north  was  by  way  of  one  of  these  glaciers. 
The  mountain  which  I  occupied  was  4,000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  led  down  to  it  by  seemingly  almost  perpendicular  walls, 
along  which  it  seemed  almost  out  of  the  question  to  find  a  way  down 
into  the  valley.  The  Nezena,  hov'ever,  is  a  large  stream,  and  at  this . 
place  was  too  deep  and  swift  to  oe  crossed  with  horses.  Just  below 
this  point  the  confluence  of  the  heavy  foi-k  from  the  east  (126)  causes 


■mam 


OOPPEIv   BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


119 


I  had 

rs  had 
ached 
rthy's 

niuch 
round 
re  had 
ich  we 
to  be 
e  next 
cupicd 
w  the 
tream, 
i  or  20 
ds  pre- 
r  three 
By  still 
le  east 


it  to  wash  a  perpendicular  wall  on  the  westerly  side,  making  it  impos- 
sible to  come  up  alonsr  this  side.  It  was  therefore  plain  that  there 
was  no  hope  of  getting  into  the  valley  of  the  Nezena  except  by  finding 
a  way  down  along  the  mountain  side. 

We  brought  our  camp  across  the  mountain  to  a  point  where  we  couul 
reach  timber  line,  and  from  here  a  careful  search  finally  enabled  us  to 
find  a  trail,  over  which  we  succeeded  (after  improving  it)  in  getting 
the  horses  into  the  valley.  It  was  a  most  difficult  trail,  however,  and 
while  the  horses  had  gotten  down,  it  was  a  question  whether  they  could 
ever  be  gotten  up  again.  In  order  to  cross  the  glacier  it  would  be 
necessary  to  have  sleds  or  toboggans  on  which  to  haul  our  outfits.  I 
accordingly  sent  to  the  Nicolai  house,  which  was  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  stream,  about  6  or  7  miles  below,  to  see  if  it  was  possible  to 
find  some  sleds  there.  We  were  rewarded  by  finding  two  old  sleds 
whi(ih  had  been  cached  by  prospectors  who  had  sledded  up  the  Chet- 
tyna  to  this  point  early  in  the  spring.  From  here  up  the  valley  we 
were  able  to  keep  along  the  west  side  of  the  stream  and  avoid  crossing 
any  considerable  channel.  One  day's  trip  took  us  to  the  foot  of  the 
glacier  (126),  a  distance  of  about  12  miles,  and  another  some  3  miles 
farther  along  the  westerly  side  of  the  same. 

From  a  prominent  peak  near  by  I  saw  that  the  first  great  left-hand 
lobe  of  the  gbcier  abutted  the  main  ridge,  but  that  beyond  this  a  second 
glacier  lobe  led  a  long  ways  to  the  westward  to  what  seemed  to  be  a 
lower  divide  (129,  130)  than  the  one  directly  north  of  the  head  of  the 
stream.  Even  if  this  divide  were  not  lower  than  the  one  directly  north, 
the  approach  to  it  was  so  much  longer  that  the  grade  would  necessarily 
be  easier  and  the  glacier  smoother.  I  therefore  decided  to  trv  this 
before  attempting  the  one  directly  north,  although  the  latter  was 
bounded  on  the  westerly  side  by  a  bare  ridge,  which  seemed  to  offer  a 
fair  chance  of  reaching  the  summit.  The  foot  of  the  glacier  was 
exceedingly  rough,  but  it  seemed  probable  that  after  we  were  once  well 
upon  the  glacier  it  would  be  possible  to  make  fair  headway  with  sleds. 
My  plan  was  to  have  the  packers  assist  Fohlin  and  me  in  sledding 
our  outfit  to  the  summit  and  from  there  have  the  packers  return  to 
Valdez,  where  Fohlin  and  I  would  attempt  to  ruake  our  way  down  the 
opposite  side  of  the  stream  heading  In  tiie  glacier,  which  I  felt  sure  was 
Copper  River.  There  I  desired  to  set  up  the  canvas  canoe  I  had  with 
us  and  construct  another  of  canvas  sacks  and  pack  covers,  and  in  them 
run  down  Copper  River  to  Copper  Center. 

Fohlin  refused  to  go  with  me  over  the  glacier,  and  I  succeeded  in 
engaging  a  young  prospector  nar.ied  McNeer,  who,  with  two  othei-s, 
had  Ijeen  following  us,  to  take  his  place.  It  was  now  August  20,  «nd 
McNcer  infonned  me  that  the  previous  year  mush  ice  had  begun  run- 
ning in  the  Copper  River  on  September  25,  and  that  after  October  17 
it  had  been  absolutely  impossible  to  get  down  the  river.     It  seemed 


m 


120 


COPPJSB  RIVER  EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


to  me,  therefore,  that  October  10  would  be  the  latest  possible  time  at 
which  we  could  figure  on  reaching  Copper  Center  by  boat. 

We  had  thus  far  killed  several  mountain  sheep  (146),  and  I  had  no 
reason  to  believe  that  we  could  not  do  so  again  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  range.  Furthermore,  it  seemed  to  me  reasonably  certain  that  we 
could  ^et  some  salmon  of  the  natives.  I  therefore  decided  to  take  only 
thirty  days'  rations  for  the  two  of  us.  This,  with  the  necessary  instru- 
ments and  material  for  boats,  together  with  what  little  camp  outfit  we 
needed,  weighed  350  pounds.  Not  knowing  how  long  it  would  take 
us  to  cross  the  glacier,  we  prepared  a  pot  of  beans  and  bread,  mutton, 
and  bacon  enough  to  last  us  two  weeks.  We  also  took  two  pieces  of 
vTied  spruce  timber  about  6  inches  in  diameter  and  4  feet  long,  weigh- 
ing about  20  pounds. 

We  started  on  the  morning  of  August  26.  After  we  had  carried  the 
outfit  well  out  upon  the  glacier  we  loaded  it  upwjn  the  sleds  (143). 
We  had  not,  however,  gone  a  quai'ter  of  a  mile  with  these  before  we 
were  hemmed  in  with  rough  ice,  and  at  the  end  of  several  hours'  hard 
work  had  to  abandon  the  sleds  and  take  to  back  packing.  With  about 
one-half  of  the  outfit  on  our  backs  we  managed  to  reach  the  foot  qf 
the  ridge  between  the  first  two  great  lobes  of  the  glacier.  Here  we 
fo.vnd  some  brush  and  made  c  np.  I  sent  the  men  back  to  the  camp 
at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  with  instructions  to  bring  on  three  days'  pro- 
visions  for  themselves,  and  bring  up  the  sleds  and  the  remainder  of 
the  loads  the  following  day.  I  then  took  a  little  lunch  and  my  sleep- 
ing bag  and  went  up  the  glacier,  to  determine  whether  or  not  I  would 
attempt  to  go  up  this  lobe  or  the  one  directly  north  (140).  I  made  a 
distance  of  about  7  or  8  miles,  and  after  spending  the  night  on  the  edge 
of  a  moraine  continued  5  or  6  miles  farther  to  a  point  from  which  I 
could  see  the  summit  of  the  glacier  (127,  128,  132,  139,  142).  It  was 
far  less  steep  and  rugged  than  the  easterly  one,  and  I  decided  without 
hesitation  to  try  this  one  in  preference  to  the  other,  although  the  dis- 
tance from  the  foot  of  the  glacier  seemed  to  me  nearly  30  miles.  From 
here  I  returned  to  camp,  v/hei*e  later  I  was  joined  by  the  rest  of  the 
party.  The  morning  had  been  clear,  but  toward  noon  it  started  in  to 
rain  and  continued  to  do  so  all  night. 

The  next  morning  the  weather  cleared  a  little,  so  Fohlin,  Fitch, 
McNeer,  and  I  started  out  to  take  our  loads  as  near  the  summit  as 
possible.  Each  sled  was  loaded  with  about  150  pounds.  At  2  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon  we  had  made  a  distance  of  about  12  miles,  and  were 
approaching  the  foot  of  a  heavy  bench  when  the  fog  closed  in,  so  that 
we  were  unable  to  see  but  a  few  yards  in  any  direction.  Under  these 
conditions  it  was  impossible  to  go  farther,  so  we  cached  the  goods  and 
retraced  our  steps  as  well  at*  possible.  Fortunately  the  fog  raised 
long  enough  to  allow  us  to  get  back  to  one  of  the  big  medial  moraines 
(132),  and  by  following  this  we  made  our  way  back  to  camp  without 


t 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITIOIT. 


121 


me  at 


t 


trouble.  The  next  day  the  fog  was  so  dense  and  heavy  that  wc  could 
not  move. 

Place  started  back  on  the  previous  day  to  look  after  the  horses,  and 
Fohlin  and  Fitch  left  us  about  noon.  I  instructed  Place  and  Fitch  to 
return  to  Valdez  with  the  pack  train,  and  Fohlin  to  go  to  Copper 
Center  and  prepare  to  come  up  Copper  River  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Chestochena  to  meet  us  with  the  dog  team,  if  we  did  not  reach  Copper 
Center  hy  October  10. 

On  the  follovring  morning,  August  30,  the  weather  cleared  somewhat, 
and  we  stai-ted  out,  reaching  our  cache  without  trouble.  Here  we 
camped.  The  next  morning  found  a  heavy  north  wind  bl^  'Ving,  bring- 
ing with  it  frequent  flurries  of  snow.  We  pscked  outfit  to  the  top  of 
the  bench,  and  here  loaded  about  one-half  of  it  on  the  sleds  and  started 
for  the  summit.  We  traveled  in  a  northeasterlj'  direction  diagonally 
across  the  glacier.  Before  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  last  bench,  a 
distance  of  about  4  miles  from  camp,  the  wind  and  snow  had  increased 
to  a  howling  blizzard,  and  we  were  obliged  to  cache  our  loads  and 
return  to  camp. 

When  morning  broke  September  1  the  storm  was  still  raging,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  remain  in  camp.  Jt  was  with  great  difficulty  that 
we  kept  our  tent  from  blowing  away.  We  had  no  way  of  making  a 
fire,  so  had  to  spend  our  time  in  our  blankets  to  keep  warm.  On  the 
morning  of  the  2d  the  weather,  though  still  cold,  had  cleared,  and 
we  started  out  very  early.  At  10  o'clock  we  had  reached  the  foot  of 
the  summit  bench  where  our  goods  were  cached.  From  here  the  l)est, 
and,  in  fact,  the  only,  course  seemed  to  be  right  up  the  middle  of  the 
glacier.  On  either  side  were  tiemendous  cataracts,  which  seemed  to 
preclude  all  possibility  of  crossing  them.  We  had  not  gone  a  quai-ter 
of  a  mile  from  the  cache,  however,  before  the  crevasses  became  so 
numerous  and  so  large  that  we  decided,  before  going  farther  with  our 
loads,  to  explore  ahead.  Ordinarily  crevasses  are  not  continuous  for 
long  distances.  Splinters,  one  end  of  which  joins  one  side  and  the 
other  the  opposite  side,  cut  diagonally  across  them.  This  offers  an 
opportunity  for  crossing,  and  by  working  back  and  forth  it  is  usually 
possible  to  make  headway  even  over  badly  crevassed  areas. 

On  this  glacier,  however,  we  found  two  sets  of  heav}'^  crevasses  at 
nearly  right  angles  to  each  other  cutting  into  isolated  rectangular 
blocks,  over  which  it  was  all  but  impossible  to  make  headway  (131). 
This  condition  was  aggravated  by  the  loose  snow  of  the  previous  day, 
which  had  everywhere  built  snow  bridges  across  the  crevasses,  often 
completely  masking  them,  so  that  to  avoid  walking  deliberately  into 
a  crevasse  it  was  impossible  to  take  a  step  in  any  direction  without 
first  carefully  feeling  the  way  with  a  stick.  Fastened  together  with 
a  life  line  about  our  waists,  one  felt  his  way  carefully  ahead,  while  the 
other  followed  in  his  steps  at  the  end  of  the  line  in  order  to  check  hifl 


122 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITIOIT. 


> 


I 


fall  should  he  break  through.  In  this  -vay  we  worked  back  and  forth, 
and  often,  when  about  ready  to  give  up  and  return,  we  would  manage 
to  find  a  wedge  or  snow  bridge  strong  enough  to  bear  our  weight,  and 
thus  enable  us  to  get  to  the  next  block  ahead. 

At  2  p.  m.  that  afternoon,  after  four  hours  of  most  trying  work,  we 
had  made  but  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  We  had,  however,  crossed  the 
worst  part,  and  had  now  reached  an  elevation  at  which  the  crust  of  the 
snow  was  beginning  to  be  suflSciently  strong  to  bear  our  weight  over 
the  crevasses.  From  here  on  the  grade  was  slight,  and  we  reached  the 
summit,  a  distance  of  about  3  miles,  without  difficulty.  From  the 
summit  we  could  see  nothing  ahead  but  a  broad,  smooth  plain  of  snow 
(127,  128),  which  seemed  to  break  down  abruptly  some  8  or  10  miles 
ahead. 

I  felt  that  life  was  too  short  to  permit  of  taking  the  chances  involved 
in  attempting  to  bring  our  outfit  over  the  route  we  had  traveled  that 
morning,  and  we  decided  to  turn  back,  unless  in  some  way  we  could 
manage  to  make  our  way  over  the  great  bench  or  cataract  on  the  east- 
erly side.  This  we  undertook  on  our  way  back,  and  after  many  fruit- 
less attempts  we  finally  succeeded  in  making  our  way  down.  While 
exceedingly  difficult,  this  route  was  free  from  the  treacherous  snow, 
and  we  decided  to  attempt  to  get  our  goods  over.  Our  outfit  weighed 
somewhat  over  400  pounds,  which  was  more  than  we  could  possibly 
handle  on  one  trip.  We  concluded,  therefore,  to  take  one-half  of  it 
and  on  the  first  clear  day  attempt  to  cross  the  summit  and  reach  a 
point  on  the  opposite  side  at  which  we  would  camp,  and  from  here 
return  for  the  rest. 

The  next  morning  broke  clear,  and  at  9  o'clock  we  were  at  the  top 
of  the  bench  with  our  loads.  From  here  on  the  surface  was  tmre  and 
smooth,  with  a  covering  of  6  or  8  inches  of  snow  (133,  134),  over  which 
we  made  good  time.  In  view  of  the  difficulty  we  had  experienced  in 
reaching  the  summit,  we  were  much  concerned  regarding  the  possi- 
bility of  getting  down  on  the  opposite  side.  The  two  great  sources  of 
concern  wei-e  the  zone  along  which  the  snow  was  sufficiently  deep  to 
obliterate  the  crevasses,  but  not  strong  enough  to  support  a  mau's 
weight  over  them,  and  the  great  bench  over  which  the  glacier  breaks 
from  the  mountain  inio  the  valley  below.  Tie  moot  favorable  condi- 
tion we  could  hope  for  was  that  the  zone  would  occur  on  the  bench 
and  that  it  would  be  possible  to  get  around  both  over  a  moraine 
bordering  on  the  glacier  at  this  point.  Indications  from  the  summit 
favored  this  supposition,  and  as  we  approached  the  top  of  the  bench 
we  came  in  sight  of  a  moraine  along  its  western  edge.  However, 
when  within  2  miles  of  this  the  crust  of  the  snow  began  giving  away, 
and  soon  after  we  began  stepping  through  it  into  cracks.  As  yet  these 
were  narrow,  but  conditions  along  the  edge  of  the  glacier  and  the  con- 
formation of  the  valley  before  us  indicated  larger  ones  (lil).    The 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


123 


surface  was  perfectly  smooth  and  gave  no  evidence  of  its  treacherous 
nature. 

We  were  standing  at  this  point  discussing  the  situation  and  consid- 
ering what  next  to  do,  when  suddenly  the  surface  of  the  glacier  began 
swaying  up  and  down  in  a  most  amazing  manner.  At  the  time  I  took 
this  to  be  an  earthquake,  due  to  a  fracture  at  some  point  in  the  glacier, 
but  later  I  learned  that  it  was  the  great  earthquake  which  shook  the 
entire  country  around.  A  careful  survey  of  the  situation  showed  us 
that  there  was  only  one  possible  way  of  reaching  the  moitiine,  and  that 
was  squarejj'^  down  the  middle  of  the  valley  before  us.  We  accord- 
ingly fastened  ourselves  together  with  a  line  about  our  waists,  tied 
our  sleds  together,  and,  each  carrying  a  stick  with  which  to  span  a 
crack  and  support  himself  in  case  he  went  through,  we  started  out, 
trusting  we  might  not  meet  a  crevasse  too  wide  for  these  means  to 
save  us  if  one  fell  through.  Slipping  into  unexpected  openings  up  to 
our  knees  or  our  waist  every  few  paces,  and  not  knowing  at  what 
moment  a  large  opening  would  take  us  in  bodily,  traveling  was  uncom- 
fortable, to  say  the  least;  but  there  being  only  one  course  to  pursue, 
we  pushed  ahead  as  best  we  could,  and  at  the  end  of  two  seemingly 
long  hours  we  reached  the  moraine.  Here  ,  e  camped  and  prepared 
supper,  after  which  we  explored  ahead  and,  to  our  great  satisfaction, 
found  that  the  moraine  on  which  we  were  camped  continued  along  the 
glacier  for  several  miles,  leaving  little  doubt  but  that  over  it  we 
should  be  able  to  reach  the  plain  below.  At  this  time  of  the  year  days 
on  the  summit  free  from  storm  anu  blizzards  are  rare,  and  with  the 
question  of  getting  down  disposed  of,  the  next  matter  of  importance 
was  to  get  the  remainder  of  our  loads  over  the  summit  before  bad 
weather  again  set  in. 

The  next  morning  found  us  ready  to  leave  camp  at  the  first  sign  of 
day.  The  sky  was  overcast,  but  the  summit  was  clear  when  we  started 
out,  and  we  hoped  it  would  remain  so.  The  necessity  of  picking  our 
wpy  carefully  had  obliged  us  on  the  previous  day  to  expose  our  eyes 
frequently  to  the  intense  glare  of  the  snow,  and  before  night  we  had 
experienced  symptoms  of  snow-blindness,  which  this  mo'ning  grew 
rapidly  worse  in  the  cold  wind  which  blew  from  the  summit.  While 
going  over  the  divide  where  the  traveling  was  good  we  were  able  to 
keep  our  ej'^es  covered  most  of  the  time,  but  on*  working  on  the  bench 
it  was  necessaiy  to  use  both  eyes  and  to  have  them  uncovered.  Before 
we  reached  the  top  of  this  bench  with  our  loads  on  the  return  journey 
both  of  my  eyes  were  all  but  useless  and  one  of  McNeer's  was  totally 
blind.  Whether  his  other  eye  would  hold  out  and  enable  us  to  get  back 
to  the  camp  was  a  serious  question.  With  the  prospect  of  wandering 
about  on  the  top  of  the  glacier  in  a  blizzard,  without  food  or  blankets 
and  unable  to  see  staring  us  in  the  face,  crossing  crevasses  caused 
us  little  concern  that  afternoon.     In  fact,  by  the  time  we  got  to  the 


124 


COPPER  BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


I 


crev»*88es  the  pain  in  our  eyes  was  such  that  neither  of  us  cared  seri- 
ously how  soon  we  fell  into  one.  McNeer's  eye,  although  most  painful, 
retained  its  sight  and  enabled  us  to  reach  camp,  where  we  took  to  our 
blankets  an^^  did  not  again  leave  them  until  the  morning  of  the  second 
day.  We  were  in  an  exposed  position,  and,  the  blizzard  now  raging 
threatening  to  blow  down  our  tent,  we  managed  to  pack  up  and  move 
the  tent  alK)ut  a  quarter  of  a  mile  into  the  ravine.  The  next  day 
McNeer's  eye  was  so  iimch  itnproved  that  he  decided  to  explore  ahead. 
He  returned  shortly  and  reported  a  bunch  of  sheep  a  mile  or  two  away 
on  the  mountain  side.  This  was  welcome  news,  and  I  urged  him  to 
make  every  eflfort  possible  to  secure  one,  a  fact  which  I  regretted  when 
night  came  on  and  he  had  not  returned  to  camp.  When  he  finally 
did  come,  about  an  hour  after  dark,  he  reported  having' cached  a 
dressed  carcass  about  3  miles  ahead  on  the  traiJ.  He  had  become  so 
engrossed  in  his  sheep  hunt  that  he  had  failed  to  notice  that  night  was 
coming  on,  and  in  consequence  had  to  take  reckless  chances  in  making 
his  way  back  to  camp  over  the  glacier  and  moriine. 

My  eyes  being  considerably  improved,  th.  ■.  following  morning  we 
began  packing  our  goods  dovTi  the  moraine,  and  on  the  afternoon  of 
the  second  day  after  had  theux  once  more  loaded  on  our  sleds  on 
smooth  ice  at  the  foot  of  the  great  bench.  Now  that  the  question  of 
getting  over  the  glacier  was  practically  disposed  of,  the  subject  of 
absorbing  interest  was  which  riA  er  drainage  we  had  reached,  the  Cop- 
per or  Tanana.  From  the  summit  we  had  seen  a  lar,;e  open  valley, 
seemingly  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  and  leading  oflf  to  ivard  the  north- 
west. Now  we  found  this  valley  Avas  cut  off  by  a  range. of  low, 
moraine- like  hills,  which  caused  the  glacier  to  turn  slightly  to  the  east, 
and  as  we  traveled  on  down  we  saw  more  and  more  of  a  wide,  open  val- 
ley leading  to  the  east.  The  glacier  headed  directly  for  this  valley, 
and  we  were  about  satisfied  that  this,  was  the  Tanana  River,  when  we 
saw  that  the  drainage  was  toward  and  not  away  from  it,  and  that  the 
river  from  the  foot  of  the  glacier  turned  abruptly  around  a  prominent 
mountain  opposite  the  foot  of  the  glacier  on  the  left-hand  side.  We 
were  now  satisfied  that  the  river  entered  the  valley  to  the  northwest 
and  that  it  v/as,  without  a  question.  Copper  River. 

We  spent  one  more  night  on  the  ice,  and  the  following  day,  shortly 
after  noon,  we  came  to.  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  which,  being  free  from 
a  terminal  moraine,  enabled  us  to  go  down  easily  and  to  make  camp 
with  our  goods  on  solid  ground  that  uight.  We  had  been  on  the  glacier 
just  fifteen  days,  and  during  this  time  we  had  nothing  to  cat  but  frozen 
bread,  bacon,  and  mutton,  except  oatmeal  or  corn-meal  mush  and  a  little 
tea.  We  had  cut  up  the  wood  we  carried  into  shavings,  and  by  burning 
these  in  a  furnace-like  inclosuro  and  constant  fanning,  about  a  hat  full 
would  suffice  to  heat  a  skillet  of  water  to  boiling.  In  this  way  we 
managed  to  have  some  warm  tea  and  mush  twice  a  day  during  the  time 
we  were  on  the  glacier  with  not  mom  than  20  pounds  of  wood. 


■m 


ijMii 


mmmm 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


125 


On  the  day  after  our  arrival  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  we  c' imbed 
the  mountain  to  the  north  of  camp  and  got  a  view  of  the  country 
farther  on.  To  our  amazement  we  found  that  the  drainage  of  the 
valley  toward  the  northwest  was  toward  and  not  away  from  us,  and 
that  this  joiued  the  glacial  stream  and  the  drainage  from  the  valley  to 
the  east,  and  broke  through  the  mountain  midway  between  the  two 
valleys.  We  were  once  more  in  doubt  regarding  our  position,  with 
indications  favoring  Xanana  drainage.  Through  the  gap  to  the  north- 
west, however,  we  saw  a  large,  open  valley  beyond  us,  and  this,  we 
felt,  was  without  a  question  Copper  River  Valley. 

We  had  started  with  only  thirty  days  provisions  and  were  already 
out  fifteen  days.  In  consiaeration  of  this  uncertainty  regarding  the 
route  before  us,  1  decided  to  send  McNeer  back  to  the  glacier  for 
another  sheep.  While  he  was  thus  engaged  I  set  up  our  canvas  canoe 
and  reinforced  it  with  a  gunwale,  preparing  to  transfer  our  goods 
down  the  stream  in  it.  McNeer  left  at  noon  and  returned  next  noon 
with  a  sheep.  The  following  morning  found  us  sick  with  colic,  and 
we  were  unable  to  start;  and  thus  we  spent  three  days  before  we  dis- 
covered that  the  cause  of  this  was  the  water  we  were  using.  As  soon 
as  we  stopped  using  the  water  of  a  clear  little  brook  trickling  down 
the  mountain  side  our  condition  began  to  improve,  and  we  were  soon 
able  to  move  on. 

The  glacial  stream  was  at  this  time  very  low,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  pack  our  goods  about  3  miles  to  a  point  where  a  number  of 
channels  joined  before  we  were  able  to  use  our  canoe.  Here  we  put 
our  goods  into  the  canoe  and  "lined"  the  same  down  the  river.  The 
river  was  so  shallow  and  branched  so  frequently  that  our  progress  was 
but  little  faster  than  packing.  In  this  way  we  reached  the  fork  of  the 
river  three  days  after  leaving  the  camp  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier. 
From  here  we  saw  that  the  river  turned  strongly  east  and  leaves  the 
mountain  not  more  than  8  or  10  miles  farther  on.  This  left  no  doubt 
but  that  it  was  a  branch  of  the  Tanana. 

It  was  now  September  18.  We  figured  that  the  portage  to  the  stream 
in  the  largo  valley  to  the  west  could  not  be  more  than  30  miles  at  the 
most,  and  we  calculated  we  could  make  this  portage  in  seven  days. 
This  would  give  us  fifteen  days  to  make  the  trip  down  Copper  River  to 
Copper  Center.  It  wq,s  evident  that  our  provisions  would  last  hardly 
half  that  length  of  time,  but  we  felt  sure  that  when  we  reached  Copper 
River  we  would  soon  be  ablu  to  find  natives,  from  whom  we  could 
secure  salmon;  and  so,  with  the  sheep  which  we  had  on  hand,  we  felt 
justified  in  undertaking  the  portage.  Our  outfit  was  too  heavy  to 
enable  us  to  handle  it  in  two  trips,  and  our  experience  with  our  canoe 
down  the  river  thus  far  showed  us  that  it  was  too  small  to  be  service- 
able on  a  large  stream.  The  canoe  was  the  only  thing  we  could  possibly 
spare  from  the  outfit  except  a  few  minor  articles.  We  therefore  decided 
to  abandon  it  here. 


I 


126 


OOPFEE  BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPBDITlOJf. 


On  account  of  the  constant  wading  in  the  ice-cold  water  for  the  past 
two  days  McNeer  was  taken  with  cramps,  so  that  ho  was  tumble  to 
move  one  foot.  Nevertheless,  wo  started  out  with  our  packs  next 
morning  and  when  we  laid  them  down  that  afternoon  we  were  not  less 
than  7  miles  from  camp.  The  next  day  wo  put  the  camp  ahead  10  miles, 
and  alternating  in  this  way,  the  afternoon  of  the  sixth  day  found  us 
within  a  few  miles  of  a  wide  valley  seemingly  occupied  by  a  very  large 
stream.  We  were  now  sure  that  we  had  reached  the  Copper  at  a  point 
where  it  was  suflSciently  large  to  enable  us  to  use  boats  or  rafts  and  we 
thought  we  saw  the  end  of  Imck  packing  near  at  hand. 

From  this  dream  wo  were  rudely  awakened  a  little  later  when  we 
noticed  that  the  snags  on  the  river  bottom  pointed  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion to  that  which  we  expected.  The  stream,  instead  of  flowing  to  the 
westward,  flowed  east,  and  after  seven  days  of  hard  packing  we  had 
merely  reached  another  branch  of  the  Tanana.  The  smaller  channels 
of  the  river  were  frozen  over  and  "mush"  ice  was  running  heavily  in 
the  main  channel. 

A  week  at  hard  packing  had  reduced  our  provisions  about  one-half. 
It  required  very  little  reflection  to  convince  us  that  we  must  discontinue 
our  search  for  the  Copper  River  ahd  that  our  comfort  and  safety 
required  us  to  make  our  way  down  the  Tanana  to  the  Mentasta  trail 
with  the  least  possible  delay,  as  the  ice  might  close  in  any  day.  To 
Copper  Center  by  this  route  was  a  long  trip  to  undertake  on  the  rations 
we  had  left,  but  we  hoped  to  be  able  to  get  dried  salmon  and  moose 
meat  from  the  natives  on  the  trip.  We  had  carried  with  us,  thus  for, 
canvas  sacks  and  two  canvas  pack  covers,  with  .which  to  make  a  canoe. 
Under  the  existing  conditions,  we  could  not  aflford  the  time  necessary 
to  make  a  canoe  and,  therefore,  concluded  we  must  tiiist  to  a  raft. 

The  next  day,  Sunday,  we  returned  for  the  last  pack  load  of  goods, 
and  on  Monday  we  built  two  mfts.  The  river  was,  in  places,  very 
spreading,  and  there  was  some  doubt  that  we  should  be  able  to  navi- 
gate it  by  raft.  We  therefore  decided  to  biiild  two  small  rafts  rather 
than  one  larger  one  since  they  could  bo  gotten  off  more  easily  if  thej' 
grounded.  Early  on  Tuesday  morning  wo  had  our  load  on  our  rafts 
and  started  down  the  river.  For  an  hour  all  went  well.  The  raft  car- 
ried us  beautifully  and  handled  almost  like  a  c^noe,  and  the  river  was 
larger  than  we  expected  to  find  it.  We  had  made  a  distance  of  from 
6  to  8  miles  whet  a  little  carelessness  in  meeting  a  cross  current  upset 
my  raft  and  ducked  me  in  the  river.  It  was  so  cold  that  there  was 
nothing  to  do  but  to  build  a  fire  and  dry  out.  While  we  were  doing 
this,  an  old  native,  whose  attention  had  been  attracted  by  the  smoke, 
came  up  the  bar.  He  was  unable  to  understand  any  English  whatever, 
and  we  could  get  no  information  f vom  him  other  than  that  he  lived 
nearby  on  the  bank.  I  sent  McNeer  to  his  camp  with  him  to  see  if  he 
could  not  get  some  mutton  or  fish.    He  soon  returned  bringing  with 


OOPI'T'IB   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


127 


him  two  younger  men,  sons  of  the  old  man.  These  had  just  returned 
fiom  a  hunt  with  the  t^arcasses  of  three  sheep.  While  we  were  reload- 
ing our  raft  and  preparing  to  go  to  their  camp,  a  sudden  wind  sprang 
up  that  whipped  up  the  dust  of  the  flood  plain  in  a  manner  unlike  any- 
thing I  have  ever  sf>vn.  The  sand  in  the  air  was  so  thick  that  it  was 
impossible  to  see  more  than  a  few  rods,  and  to  face  it  was  positively 
out  of  the  question.  We  cached  our  goods,  pulled  our  rafts  out  of  the 
water,  and  hastened  to  shelter  on  the  bank.  We  found  the  natives 
encamped  on  the  lee  side  of  a  high  bluff  that  offered  good  protection  from 
the  storm,  and  we  camped  with  them.  They  were  exceedingly  hospi- 
table and  when  we  told  them  we  were  short  of  provisions,  they  pre- 
pared for  us  all  the  mutton  we  could  eat.  They  confirmed  our  impres- 
sion that  the  river  wo  were  on  was  the  Nabosna,  the  western  branch 
of  the  Tanana,  and  we  learned  that  a  good  ti'ail  leads  from  this  point 
to  Balzulnetas  on  Copper  Siver.  They  said  they  had  made  the  dis- 
tance in  three  days'  travel  without  packs  and  in  six  days  with  moderate 
packs. 

We  endeavored  to  engage  these  men  as  guides  and  packers,  but  this 
was  their  sheep-hunting  season,  and  they  refused  to  go.  After  spend- 
ing the  night  and  most  of  the  next  day  with  them,  coaxing  and  making 
all  sorts  of  promises,  they  finally  consented  to  go  with  us.  When  we 
were  ready  to  start  we  found  that  their  camp  outfit  and  provisions 
they  were  taking^ave  them  about  all  the  load  they  could  carry.  We 
went  through  our  outfit  again  and  threw  out  everything  that  we  could 
possibly  leave  behind.  When  this  was  done,  and  we  had  lightened  the 
burdens  about  10  or  15  pounds,  Ave  gave  them  all  they  would  consent 
to  carry  and  took  the  remainder  ourselves.  Our  loads  were  very  heavy 
and  our  progress  necessarily  slow.  The  natives  saw  that  we  were  too 
heavily  laden,  and  decided  to  leave  behind  the  greater  part  of  the  pro- 
visions they  were  carrying  and  take  part  of  our  load  instead.  They 
began  begging  to  be  allowed  to  turn  back,  and,  finding  that  I  could  do 
nothing  else  with  them,  I  promised  to  allow  them  to  do  so  if  they 
would  take  us  to  a  point  at  which  they  could  indicate  to  us  the  trail 
ahead,  so  that  we  could  find  it  without  their  help. 

We  entered  a  draw  almost  exactly  opposite_^the  one  through  which  we 
had  reached  the  river  basin,  and,  after  making  about  8  miles,  went  into 
camp.  The  next  morning  it  was  raining  and  the  natives  were  unusually 
hard  to  start.  By  coaxing,  promising,  and  threatening  we  finally  got 
them  started,  and  made  about  6  miles  to  the  bank  of  the  lake.  It  was 
now  so  cold  that  the  lake  was  frozen  over,  and  there  were  seveitil  inches 
of  snow  on  the  ground.  Camping  was  uncomfortable  and  the  natives 
spent  a  sleepless  night,  in  consequence  of  which  they  positively  refused 
to  go  farther.  A  repetition  of  the  former  tactics  finally  started  them 
on  this,  as  on  each  succeeding  morning,  and  we  reached  the  Batzul- 
netas  on  the  afternoon  of  the  sixth  day.    Here  we  found  several  large 


128 


COPPKB  RIVER   EXPLORINO   EXPEDItlOW. 


i 

1 

i 

i 
i 

! 

I 

1 

i 

. 

i 

1 1 

i' 

I 

tiii 

; 

I 


Halinon  ctichoH  belonging  to  our  guides  and  another  belonging  to  Sus- 
Iota  John,  an  unusually  largo  native,  who,  with  his  family,  was  camp- 
ing  here  at  this  time. 

We  had  been  informed  by  our  guides  that  we  could  raft  from  Bat- 
zulneta,  but  we  found  the  river  so  low  that  this  was  impossible,  and, 
a8  a  con8e(]uence,  we  were  obliged  to  pack  to  the  mouth  of  the  Slahna. 
A  native,  known  as  Sanford  Nicolai,  who  was  coming  down  the  river 
in  a  skin  canoe  from  his  autumn  hunt,  was  reported  to  be  due  next 
day.  We  awaited  his  arrival  and  arranged  with  him  to  take  as  much 
of  our  outfit  as  we  were  unable  to  pack  at  one  load  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Slahna  for  us.  Packing  to  the  Slahna,  we  built  a  raft,  and  when 
Nicolai  came  along  we  followed  him  down  the  river.  When  we  had 
gone  about  3  miles  our  guide  pointed  out  a  large  batteau  oih^  the  bank, 
and  we  pulled  up  at  once,  especially  so  as  our  raft  had  proven  exceed- 
ingly unsteady  and  too  small  for  its  load.  The  batteau  was  seemingly 
in  good  condition  uiid  we  prepared  to  launch  it.  The  native  objected, 
claiming  that  it  belonged  to  him  and  another  native  living  some  dis- 
tance down  the  river.  By  promising  to  pay  him  for  it  we  gained  his 
consent  to  use  it.  It  was  a  very  large  and  heavy  boat  and  had  about 
6  inches  of  ice  in  it.  Nevertheless,  we  managed  to  get  it  into  the 
water,  and,  after  making  a  few  miles  more,  we  went  into  camp  with 
the  native. 

The  next  morning  we  started  out  in  good  season  and  the  following 
night  we  were  in  camp  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chestochena.  This  river 
had  been  attracting  considerable  attention,  and  I  wished  to  explore  it. 
McNeer  had  left  the  cache  in  a  log  house  (148)  about  25  miles  up  this 
stream,  and  to  this  we  decided  to  go,  and,  if  the  provisions  were  undis- 
turbed, to  take  what  we  needed  and  make  a  side  trip  up  the  stream. 
If,  for  some  reason,  the  food  was  gone,  we  would  return  and  continu*) 
on  down  the  river.  Mush  ice  was  forming  at  this  time  in  Copper 
River  rapidly,  and  the  nights  were  exceedingly  cold.  We  left  the 
mouth  of  the  Chestochena  at  9  o'clock,  and,  with  three  days'  provisions 
and  our  tent  and  blankets,  se  made  a  distance  of  18  miles  before  night. 

Leaving  car  tents  and  blankets  behind  us,  the  next  morning  we 
started  for  the  cache,  which  we  reached  about  10  o'clock.  We  found 
the  cache  disturbed  and  not  a  bit  of  provisions  of  any  kind  left.  We 
therefore  retraced  our  steps  down  the  river  at  once  and  the  next  morn- 
ing at  9  o'cloc^k  we  were  once  more  at  its  mouth.  The  ice  in  the  river 
was  now  alarmingly  heavy  and  we  lost  no  time  in  getting  away.  The 
mush  ice  was  so  thick  and  strong  that  it  was  difficult  to  move  the  boat 
through  it,  and  with  the  great  number  of  bowlders  which  the  extremely 
low  water  of  this  season  brings  to  the  surface  navigation  was  difficult 
and  exciting.  Wc  therefore  engaged  Nicolai  to  accompany  us  to  help 
in  navigating  the  boat.  A  little  later  we  engaged  another  native, 
Gukana,  who,  with  Sanford  Nicolai,  owned  the  boat.    With  the  help 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLOBINO   EXPEDITION. 


129 


of  thc8o  two  men  wo  muimgod  to  run  (136)  to  Coppt^r  Conttn'  without  a 
mishap  of  any  kind,  and,  contrary  to  oui*  expectation,  wo  reached 
Copper  Center  that  night. 

I  expected  to  find  here  either  the  dog  team  or  some  pack  horscH  with 
which  to  make  our  way  to  Valdoz.  Not  finding  either  we  waited  for 
Holnian,  the  mail  contractor,  who  was  due  for  six  days,  expecting  to 
get  instructions  for  our  further  movements.  Hohnan  arrived  at  the 
appointed  time  but  without  instructions  for  us.  Ho  had  with  him  a 
considerable  pack  train,  and  intended  to  send  two  pack  horses  back  to 
Valdoz.  I  mode  arrangements  with  him  whereby,  in  consideration  of 
my  indicating  to  his  men  a  trail  from  Copper  Center  to  Tonsona  River, 
he  agreed  to  carry  a  part  of  my  outfit  to  Valdoz.  I  therefore  cached 
at  this  point  everything  except  essentials,  such  as  instruments,  notes, 
and  bedding. 

The  route  proposed  was  a  desirable  one  for  my  return  to  Valdoz,  as 
it  enabled  me  to  do  tc  pographical  work,  Iwsides  giving  me  an  oppor- 
tunity to  look  up  a  route  which  I  considei'ed  favorable  for  a  perma- 
nent trail.  With  three  men  and  two  horses  I  loft  Copper  Center  on 
October  18.  We  crossed  the  Klutena  at  Copper  Center  and,  following 
what  is  known  as  Cooper's  trail,  reached  Cooper's  camp  that  night. 
The  distance  from  Copper  Center  by  trail  is  probably  about  10  miles. 

The  next  morning  we  continued  in  a  direction  calculated  to  take  us 
along  the  eastern  edge  of  the  mountain.  Timber  was  close  and  after 
a  hard  day's  work  we  had  made  not  more  than  8  miles.  We  had,  how- 
ever, reached  the  foot  of  a  lake  several  miles  long  and  had  moved  well 
around  the  end  of  the  mountain  range.  A  due  south  course  on  the 
next  day  took  us  over  fine,  flat  country  to  Tonsena  River.  This  we 
reached  by  working  down  the  valley  of  its  northward  branch  on  a 
gradual  slope  through  a  long  draw  and  then  following  the  valley  down 
for  a  distance  of  about  1  mile  to  the  valley  of  the  main  river.  We 
camped  on  the  Tonsena  and  continued  the  next  day  on  our  way.  The 
lakes  were  now  frozen  so  that  we  traveled  on  them  in  perfect  safety. 
The  Tonsena  River  was  partly  frozen,  and  we  experienced  considerable 
difficulty  in  getting  the  horses  across  it. 

It  was  my  impression  that  the  branch  of  the  Tonsena  leading  to  the 
headwaters  of  the  Kanata  was  the  one  immediately  opposite  the  one  by 
which  we  had  entered  its  bottom.  Johnson,  one  of  Holman's  men, 
with  me,  has  been  through  this  pass  and  consequently  was  supposed  to 
know;  so  I  accepted  his  corroboration  of  my  impression.  After  work- 
ing our  way  out  of  this  valley  by  gradual  slope  to  the  westward,  we 
traveled  along  the  top  of  the  bluff,  when  night  overtook  us  after  hav-. 
ing  not  made  over  6  miles.  The  next  day  Johnson  failed  to  find  land- 
marks and  I  began  to  doubt  whether  this  was  the  proper  creek,  and 
before  we  camped  that  night  he  also  was  convinced  of  this.  There 
S.  Doc,  306 9 


180 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDIIION. 


seemed  to  bo  a  pans  to  the  southwest,  and  we  deeided  to  attempt  to  go 
through  this  in  preference  to  turning  back  and  going  to  the  other 
creek. 

We  had  attained  a  considerable  elevation,  and  it  was  bitter  cold  for 
we  were  camping  without  a  tent  or  other  protection  than  a  brush  shed. 
The  snow  was  about  20  inches  deep,  and  it  was  not  without  consider- 
able difficulty  that  we  succeeded  in  making  our  way  to  the  sununit. 
On  reaching  this  wo  found  ourselves  at  the  edge  of  a  considerable 
valley,  extending  indefinitely  in  both  directions.  It  took  us  some  time 
to  realize  that  this  was  the  divide  between  the  Kanata  and  the  south 
fork  of  the  Tonsena.  We  were  fully  2,000  foet  above  it,  and  when  we 
finally  reached  the  valley  we  found  a  newly  cut  trail  which  we  knew  to 
be  that  of  Lieutenant  Babcock's  party.  Following  this  we  reached 
Fall  Creek  that  night  and  the  government  stable  the  next  night,  and 
from  there  the  next  two  days'  travel  over  the  new  Government  trail 
took  us  back  to  Yalde^. 


i 


RBPORT  OF  ASDIBOH  M.  POWELL,  GUIDE  WITH  COPPER  EIVES 

EZPLOBIHO  EXPEOITIOV. 


Deab  8ib:  After  guiding  tiie  trail  cuttorH  through  the  roughest  part 
of  the  Coast  Range  to  where  station  No.  3  was  established,  I  received 
instructions  from  you  to  further  explore  the  Gakona  and  Chestochena 
rivers  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the  practicability  of  securing  a 
shorter  route  to  Lake  Mentasta  than  that  by  way  of  the  mouth  of  the 
^lahna.  Pursuant  to  these  instructions,  I  left  stiition  No.  8  on  Mon- 
day, August  21,  1899,  taking  with  me  two  horses.  On  the  first  day 
out  one  of  the  horses  rolled  about  one  hundred  feet  down  an  embank- 
ment and  fell  into  deep  water.  I  succeeded  in  getting  him  out,  how- 
ever, without  much  difficulty,  and  found  him  to  be  comparatively 
uninjured. 

On  the  evening  of  August  22  I  reached  Quartz  Creek  Divide.  Here 
I  met  F.  J.  Date,  of  Elkhart,  Ind.  He  claimed  to  be  familiar  with 
some  of  the  country  I  was  to  explore,  and  as  he  seemed  to  be  good  at 
roughing  it  I  employed  him  to  accompany  me  as  an  axman. 

On  the  24th  of  August  I  crossed  the  Quartz  Creek  Divide.  On  the 
summit  we  encountered  a  severe  hailstorm.  That  night  we  stopped  at 
the  Quartz  Creek  mining  camp.  But  few  men  were  mining  here,  and 
although  they  had  $500  or  $600  worth  of  coaree  gold  dust,  they  claimed 
it  was  not  a  shoveling  proposition,  because  of  the  numerous  large 
bowlders  encountered. 

On  the  25th  of  August  we  swam  our  horses  across  the  outlet  of  the 
Tonsena  or  Archer  Lake,  reaching  Twin  Lakes,  on  Grayling  Creek 
Divide,  about  midnight. 

There  being  good  horse  feed  at  Twin  Lakes,  I  rested  the  stock  and 
remained  there  until  the  next  day.  There  also  appeared  to  be  good 
trout  fishing  at  this  spot,  and  I  caught  sc  eral  grayling  with  a  fly  hook. 
With  my  solar  tmnsit  I  took  the  sun's  altitude,  and  found  that  we  were 
61°  45'  north.  Here  we  came  across  the  grave  of  a  prospector  who 
had  died  on  his  way  to  Quartz  Creek  during  the  rush  to  that  place  last 
winter. 

On  August  27  we  camped  on  Grayling  Creek.  Near  by  we  found 
the  grave  of  a  disappointed  prospector,  who  had  killed  himself  during 
a  spell  of  despondency. 

On  August  29  we  swam  the  horses  across  the  Klutena  River.  At 
this  place  was  stationed  James  Garrett,  of  the  Fourteenth  United 
States  Infantry. 

131 


132 


COPPEB   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


i 


On  August  31 1  reached  Copper  Center,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Klutena 
River.  This  town  was  composed  of  log  cabins  built  by  prospectors. 
While  here  I  succeeded  in  getting  some  old  lusty  bacon,  some  musty 
flour,  and  salt.  I  counted  on  getting  supplies  hero,  but,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  edibles,  was  disappointed.  It  was  evident  that  I  would 
have  to  depend  some  on  the  game  I  might  chance  to  kill  with  my 
revolver  during  the  trip. 

At  Copper  Center  I  met  Messrs.  Rice,  Wood,  and  others  returning 
from  Forty  Mile. 

We  felt  a  heavy  earthquake  shock  on  Sunday,  September  3,  at  3  p.  m. 
After  realizing  that  it  was  an  earthquake  I  looked  in  the  direction  of 
Mount  Wrangell,  which  had  not  been  smoking  much  for  several  days. 
At  thi*  time  it  was  smoking  very  heavily  and  had  just  discharged  a 
large  amount  of  lava,  which  descended  the  northwestern  slope  for  sev- 
eral miles,  appearing  to  have  melted  deep  gorges  in  the  snow  and  ice. 
The  !iext  day  the  wind  drifted  the  snow  over  the  blackened  area. 
Mount  Wi"angell  continued  to  smoke  with  unusual  animation  for  the 
rest  of  the  season. 

Monday,  September  4,  was  spent  in  rafting  and  swimming  the  horaes 
across  the  Tazlena  River.  Here  we  met  about  a  dozen  Indians  and 
camped  with  them  that  night.  We  found  them  to  be  a  jovial  and  soci- 
able lot.  They  claimed  they  were  Gulkana  Indians  and  lived  near  the 
Gulkana  Lake;  that  they  were  on  their  way  to  Copper  Center  to  trade 
skins  for  muck-amuck  They  expressed  some  fear  that  with  too  many 
white  men  in  the  country  starvation  would  come  to  them.  They  said 
that  nearly  three  years  previous  the  majority  of  their  num1)er  on  the 
Gulkana  Lake  had  starved  to  death  during  the  winter.  I  explained  to 
them  that  as  there  were  no  white  men  in  their  country  at  that  time 
they  could  not  have  been  the  cause  of  the  calamity.  I  also  told  them 
that  the  white  men  did  not  come  to  hunt  game,  but  to  look  for  gold, 
which,  if  found,  would  bring  in  food  and  give  the  Indians  work,  and 
that  they  could  trade  their  moose  meat  for  flour.  One  old  man  stated 
that  the  Indians  wanted  to  work  for  fo'jd.  They  appeared  very 
ingenious,  and  showed  us  some  knives  which  they  had  hammered  out 
of  files  with  a  stone,  assisted  by  a  charcoal  tire  and  a  blowpipe  made 
of  alder. 

The  next,  day  we  continued  our  journey  on  through  the  spruce  tim- 
ber. It  took  us  two  days  to  reach  the  Gulkana  River.  Thi.s  is  a  clear 
stream  coming  from  the  north  and  is  the  outlet  to  the  Gulkana  Lake. 
The  next  morning  we  forded  the  Gulkana  and  also  reached  and  crossed 
the  Gakona  River.  The  following  day  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the 
Sanforu  River  at  a  point  where  it  empties  into  the  Cop^^er  from  the 
south,  about  b  miles  above  the  Gakona. 

On  September  9  I  left  the  Copper  at  the  big  bend,  about  5  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Sanford,  and  advanced  north  about  10  miles 


-^^^^^'=•^=5^; 


COPPEH   RIVEil    EXPLOKIHa   EXPEDITION. 


133 


'lutena 

)ectors. 

musty 

to  the 

would 

ith  my 

turning 


and 


west  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  foundation  for  a  trail  between 
the  Gakona  and  the  Chestochena  rivers.  After  traveling  over  prairie 
ground  and  winding  between  laltes  for  about  12  miles  I  camped  in 
sight  of  the  Gakona  River. 

Our  course  for  the  next  five  days  was  generally  betweei;  north  and 
20°  east  of  north.  The  higher  the  ground  and  the  farther  away  the 
Copper,  the  more  were  the  lakes  and  swamps  encountered.  It  seemed 
impossible  to  travel  more  than  8  miles  a  day.  We  crossed  miles  and 
miles  of  tussocks,  large  and  shaky.  Our  horses  Ijecame  experts  in 
stepping  from  one  to  another,  a  failure  to  land  on  them  causing  them 
to  flounder  in  the  mire  between.  We  followed  an  old  Indinn  trail, 
passing  an  nbandoned  village,  where  signs  were  written  with  charcoal 
on  a  cache  post  indicating  that  two  men,  two  women,  and  three  chil- 
di'en  had  gone  up  the  river,  passed  through  some  timber,  crossed  the 
Gakona,  and  were  hunt'ng  in  the  hills.  The  men  were  pictured  as 
having  guns.  These  Indians  have  a  systematic  sign  language,  easily 
decipherable. 

On  September  13  we  camped  on  the  foothills  of  the  divide  between 
the  Copper  and  the  Shushitna.  Here  _we  found  fine  feed  for  the 
horses  and  frightened  a  moose,  whi<rh  ran  out  of  the  divide. 

We  changed  oui"  course  to  30°  east  and  spent  two  days  in  reaching 
the  headwaters  of  the  Chestochena  River.  We  traveled  over  high 
rolling  ground.  In  some  places  where  the  ground  was  nearly  h^vel 
we  found  it  so  soft  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we  could 
ti"avel  8  miles  a  ('.ay.  At  one  time  all  our  horses  became  mirrd  and  we 
were  obliged  to  unpack  and  assist  them  to  walk  for  luuidreds  of  yards. 

.lust  before  we  reached  the  Chestochena  we  came  across  mule  tracks, 
supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the  exploring  expedition  under  Cap- 
tain Glenn. 

We  camped  for  two  daj's  on  the  Chestochena,  about  8  miles  from  the 
glacier.  During  this  time  it  snowed  about  5  inches.  This  glacier  is 
a  large  one,  and  from  it  floAV  two  branches  of  the  Chestochena,  as  well 
as  the  east  fork  of  the  Gakona.  I  was  informed  by  an  Indian,  known 
as  Gakona  Charley,  that  the  north  fork  of  the  Toke  also  has  its  soui'ce 
from  this  glacier  at  a  point  where  it  extends  t«)  the  north  side  of  the 
mountain. 

On  Saturday,  the  16th,  we  moved  camp  about  2  miles  above  Chesna 
Creek,  which  flows  into  the  Chestochena  at  a  point  about  8  or  9  miles 
from  the  source  of  the  west  fork  of  the  Chestochena.  Here  were 
located  a  number  of  mining  camps.  A  Mr.  Dempsey  had  discovered 
placer  gold  here,  and  ht,  together  with  Messrs.  Hazlott  and  Meals,  had 
located  a  few  claims  just  below  the  rim  ro'  k  of  the  canyon.  Five 
Swedish  citizens  from  Mentasta  Lake,  hearing  of  the  find,  hurried  to 
the  place  and  located  all  the  creek.  I  washed  out  ten  pans  of  airt  here 
that  averaged  C  cents  to  thti  pan.     Gold  was  found  only  in  tlie  strata 


M 


134 


OOFPEB  BIVEB  EXPLOBmO  EXPEDITIOK. 


^11 


1  1      i 


PI 


of  clay,  and  as  but  about  half  of  the  ground  was  composed  of  clay 
I  suppose  the  true  average  was  about  3  cents  to  the  pan.  I  prospected 
to  a  depth  of  5  feet  and  did  not  po  to  bed  rock.  I  believe  this  claim, 
being  favorably  situated,  will  p^y;  but  as  it  posts  about  $1  per  pound 
to  get  provisions  into  the  place,  it  would  necessarily  have  to  be  very 
rich.  It  will  take  the  work  of  another  summer  to  determine  the  extent 
of  pay  dirt  and  its  value.  The  gold  appeared  to  have  been  of  a  leafy 
character,  very  dark  in  color. 

I  explored  to  the  head  waters  of  this  canyon  to  see  if  it  was  possible 
<»  find  a  pass  leading  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Tok,  but  found  it 
encompassed  with  high,  ragged  mountains.  From  he  top  of  these 
mountains  a  level  j)ass  was  plainly  seen,  leading  t..  m  '  ^^iddle  fork 
of  the  Chestochenu  to  near  the  head  waters  of  v.  £.l.^iii.  I  easily 
recognized  a  place  on  the  east  nde  of  *^^'i  Slahna  whore  1  had  been 
during  the  summer  of  1898.  This  pass  leads  to  another  pass  that 
would  reach  the  Tok  from  the  Slahna,  about  10  miles  north  of  Men- 
tasta  Pass. 

As  it  had  been  almost  continually  snowing  and  blowing  from  the 
northeast,  and  as  our  horses  were  very  weak,  I  decided  to  start  for 
Valdez  on  September  29. 

The  mouth  of  Chesna  Creek,  as  near  as  I  can  determine,  is  in  lati- 
tude 63°  4'  north  and  longitude  145°  20'  west.  The  Chestochena  River 
descends  from  N.  15°  W.  from  its  source,  from  which  direction  we 
follow  it  about  9  miles  from  the  Chesna,  where  the  middle  fork  of 
the  Cb'istociiena  comes  in  from  N.  20°  E.  One  mile  below  iliv  i,)rk 
we  find  the  river  bears  S.  25°  E.,  which  course  we  follow  for  '  '  ni-c  ^ 
to  where  the  east  fork  comes  in  from  N.  20°  E.  The  cou;  j  .  :  ri 
river  from  this  point  is  S.  30°  W.  for  4  mi: 38,  where  it  «:...?  ^  <j 
S.  10°  W.  for  4  miles,  then  S.  14°  E.  for  4  miles,  where  it  emp*.  i^^ 
into  the  Copper,  which  point  we  reached  on  the  night  of  October  2. 

Our  progress  down  the  Chestochena  was  slow  and  difficult,  owing  to 
the  thick  growth  of  the  spruce  trees,  the  high  frozen  banks  which  we 
often  had  to  ascend,  as  well  as  the  quicksand  on  the  bars  where  it  was 
not  suiiiciently  frozen  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  horses.  The  crossing 
and  recrossing  of  the  river,  with  the  heavy  f  .  w  of  mush  ice,  seemed 
to  take  the  life  out  of  our  horses.     We  wei  ipoUed  t^   • '^ed  them 

flour  to  keep  them  alive.  The  snow  had  obliterated  th  o'.o  X>jdian 
trail  followed  by  me  the  year  before,  and  we  were  compelled  i  i  dor 
down  the  Copper,  through  the  thick  tunber,  up  and  down  hill,  the 
best  way  we  could.  On  October  8  we  tr^v^^led  about  14  miles  S.  20^, 
alongside  of  an  old  moose  fen* .  ih&t,  rbn,  Indians  had  built  years 
ago  by  cutting  and  bending  dowrt  small  spr,  t-  trees.  We  camped  that 
night  on  a  high  bluff  overlooking  the  Copper,  but  so  far  away  from 
the  water  we  were  compelled  to  melt  snow  with  which  to  boil  our 
coffee.    For  our  food  we  had  only  coffee  and  flour,  with  an  occasional 


COPPEB   BTVEE   EXPLORIN&   EXPEDITION. 


135 


-mk'  - 


grouse  or  squirrel,  killed  with  my  revolver.     Here  I  saw  tracks  of 
snowshoe  rabbits,  but  found  no  rabbits. 

Oa  October  4  we  traveled  for  about  10  miles  and  camped  on  Tana 
Creek,  which  runs  6.  35°  W.  I'he  prairies  here  were  covered  with 
good  feed  for  the  horses.  In  1898  they  were  burned  by  you  with  a 
view  of  improving  the  quality  of  the  feed,  and  in  my  opinion  the  feed 
was  much  better  on  the  burned  portion  of  the  prairie.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  Tana  Creek,  where  it  empties  into  the  Copper,  I  recognized 
the  old  burying  ground  of  1898.  The  little  flags,  mostly  handkerchiefs 
tied  to  sticks,  were  still  fluttering  in  the  breeze.  There  were  thi-ee 
new  graves.  Kulkena  John  informed  me  that  all  the  male  members 
of  the  family  who  once  lived  there  had  died  during  the  last  winter  and 
that  the  three  women  were  being  cared  for  by  the  Gakona  Indians. 

On  t'ae  night  of  October  6  we  were  camped  about  3  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Kulkena  River.  While  there  two  Indians  came  into 
camp,  the  first  we  had  seen  on  our  return  trip,  as  the  Indians  had  not 
returned  from  their  fall  hunting  trip.  We  told  them  we  had  nothing 
to  eat,  having  fed  all  our  flour  to  our  horses.  They  cheerfully  divided 
their  dried  salmon  "with  us.  They  ('ry  their  salmon  without  salt,  and 
the  half-rotted  stuff  is  v^ery  repuls?  ve  to  a  white  man  unless  he  is  in  an 
almost  starving  condition.  We  were  very  glad,  however,  to  get  the 
salmon,  and  I  must  say  we  relished  them. 

On  October  9  we  managed  to  reach  Copper  Center,  having  eaten 
but  two  pheasants  since  our  meal  with  the  Indians.  At  Copper  Cen- 
ter, where  there  wore  a  thousand  or  more  men  the  year  before,  we 
found  one  man  running  a  trading  post.  Here  we  obtained  some  pro- 
visions and  flour  for  oui*  horses.  We  kept  moving  every  day,  as  we 
were  afraid  of  winter  closing  in  on  us  while  on  the  Coast  Range. 

The  night  we  were  in  Copper  Center  the  thermometer  registered  15° 
below  zero.    It  was  a  battle  with  the  elements  from  here  to  Valdez. 
We  found  tre  snow  aboi  .t  a  foot  deep  on  Grayling  Creek  Divide,  and 
.  as  the  wind  wi's  blowin-^f  hard  we  were  content  to  crawl  into  our  sleep- 
ing bags  withouv*".  "uprer. 

On  Oct-iber  14  we  attempted  to  cross  Quartz  Creek  Divide,  but  m  are 
compelled  to  camp  within  a  mile  of  the  summit,  in  3  feet  of  snow. 
Here  we  again  fed  the  last  of  our  flour  to  the  horses.  The  snow  was 
so  deeply  drifted  and  stiff  that  the  next  day's  work  w.is  severe.  We 
had  neither  supper  nor  breakfast,  and  all  three  of  our  horses  were 
down  before  we  had  gone  100  yards  from  where  we  had  spent  the 
night.  One  horse  gave  out  and  I  could  not  get  him  to  make  anothor 
effort,  and  as  he  could  not  live  I  shot  him.  We  succeeded  in  making 
the  divide  about  noon.  It  was  but  8  miles  down  to  the  Govern- 
ment trail,  and  good  traveling.  The  trail  here  does  not  cross  the 
Quartz  Creek  Divide.  We  had  part  of  a  salmon  on  which  to  exist 
until  we  reached  station  No.  3,  on  October  17.    One  of  oui*  horses 


136 


COPPER  BIVEB   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


became  exhausted,  and  on  the  18th  I  took  him  some  flour  from  station 
No.  3  and  led  him  into  camp. 

On  October  19  I  crossed  over  Lowe  River  Divide,  but  the  horse  gave 
out  near  the  summit  and  I  was  compelled  to  leave  him.  We  succeeded 
in  getting  one  horse  over,  blanketed  and  fed  him  some  flour,  and  again 
crawled  into  our  sleeping  bags  supperless.  The  next  morning  Date 
took  the  horse  down  about  2  miles  along  the  trail  to  a  place  where 
he  could  build  a  fire  and  make  some  coflfee,  while  I  went  over  the  sum- 
1  ''*  to  see  if  it  was  possible  to  save  the  other  horse.  Twice  the  wind 
I  e  off  the  summit,  but  when  the  wind  eased  for  a  minute  I  suc- 

ceed I.  in  walking  over  with  little  effort.  I  found  the  horse  dead, 
covered  with  the  drifted  snow.  It  seemed  to  be  an  unusually  windy 
day.  Returning,  I  found  Mr.  Date  in  a  sheltered  place  near  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  where  we  enjoyed  some  coffee.  Here  the  snow  was 
blown  off  the  ground.  Our  horse  found  a  good  feed  of  oats,  left  by 
some  previous  party. 

On  Saturday  evening  we  reached  station  No.  2,  where  we  were  well 
cared  for.  We  reached  Valdez  on  October  22,  in  an  almost  exhausted 
condition.  I  am  satisfied  that  but  for  the  trail  built  by  you  through 
these  raountalas  I  would  have  perished  by  the  wayside.  No  moi-e 
laudable  midertaking  for  the  benefit  of  Alaska  could  be  conceived 
than  the  development  of  its  apparently  unlimited  resources,  the  open- 
ing up  of  an  unknown  and  unexplored  region,  and  making  possible 
what  was  heretofore  considered  impossible  b}--  the  prospector^ — by 
building  the  trail  from  Port  Valdez  to  the  Yukon. 

I  beg  to  suggest  that  the  general  course  of  "the  trail  from  where  it 
nows  ends  should  be  about  N.  20°  E.  var.  N.  28°  30'  E.  until  the 
Chestochena  River  is  crossed.  This  will  carry  it  along  the  west  side  of 
the  Copper  River,  dry  footing,  with  the  intention  of  crossing  the  Klu- 
tena  about  8  miles  above  Copper  Center, at  what  is  known  as  "Moses' 
Rock,"  and  would  cross  the  Tazlena  River  about  1  mile  from  the 
Copper.  The  country  between  the  Gakona  and  the  Chestochena ;  ivers 
(with  the  exception  of  a  strip  about  8  miles  wide  along  the  Copper)  is 
entirely  too  wet  and  swampy  for  a  trail. 

GEOLOGY   OF  THE   ALASKAN   JUNGE. 

There  are  but  few  carboniferous  indications  on  the  western  slope, 
although  some  coal  float  appears  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Oakona 
and  Chestochena  rivers.  This  is  a  glance  coal  of  high  luster,  which  I 
suppose  belongs  to  a  vein  that  extends  from  Kenai  northeasterly  through 
Alaska  and  across  the  Yukon.  There  are  no  tabled  or  blanketed  lodes 
and  veiy  little  conglomerate.  On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  range  are 
to  be  found  glistening  silicious  deposits  of  no  mineral  value.  There 
is  also  to  be  found  a  contact  of  micacious  slate  and  gmnite.  There  are 
also  some  unreasonably  large  lodes  of  miner^^isjgid  quartz  running  in 


COPPEB  RIVER   EXPLORIKG   EXPEDITION. 


137 


and  with  this  range,  but  of  low  grade.  They  carrj'  little  gold,  iron, 
and  considerable  lead  and  silver,  with  sulphides  of  copper.  I  also 
found  some  spectacular  iron  and  some  placer  gold. 

I  have  great  confidence  in  the  future  developments  of  the  mineral 
resources  of  this  region  when  made  accessible  by  a  public  highway. 

THE  COPPER  RIVER  VALLEY. 

This  va,lley  has  the  appearance  of  once  having  been  a  vast  inland  sea. 
It  has  a  gravel  bottom  to  an  unknown  depth  and  is  generally  undu- 
lating and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  spruce.  Its  climate  is 
pleasant  and  dry  in  summer,  cold  and  dry  in  winter.  Summer  and 
winter  in  t'ais  region  come  very  suddenly.  According  to  a  weather 
record  kept  by  H.  M.  Stewart,  formerly  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  the 
temperature  varied  at  Copper  Center  in  the  spring  of  1899  from  30° 
below  to  20°  above  zero  in  twenty -four  hours.  This  change  was  sub- 
stantial; birds  bej^n  to  arrive  and  sing;  flowers  to  bloom,  and  there 
was  no  frost.  In  parts  of  the  valley  where  the  soil  is  sufficiently  dry 
and  where  the  moss  and  timber  has  been  burned  is  found  a  very  heavy 
growth  of  nutritious  bunch  grass.  Owing  to  this  and  the  climatic  con- 
ditions of  the  valley,  I  believe  that  wheat  could  be  successfully  raised. 
The  dry  atmosphere,  the  long,  warm  days  of  summer,  the  light  snow 
fall  in  winter  are  in  direct  conti*ast  to  the  damp  summers  and  heavy 
winter  snows  of  the  coast.  It  is  evident  that  the  Copper  River  Valley 
is  at  least  25°  warmer  in  winter  than  the  valley  of  the  Yukon. 

Bird^  found  in  the  Copper  River  Valley. — Widgeon,  summer,  mal- 
lard, green  and  blue  winged  teal  ducks;  black  duck  (very  large, 
with  blue,  flat  bill);  grebe;  loon;  black  or  jack  snipe;  field  or  high- 
land plover;  grouse  or  spruce  hen,  which  are  smaller  than  the  Pacific 
coast  grouse  of  lower  latitudes,  have  no  feathers  on  their  feb^,  and 
remain  in  the  trees  as  long  as  the  snow  is  on  the  ground.  The}'  are 
not  hooters. 

InsecU  found  in  the  Copper  River  Vall^t/. — Beetles:  A  vai'iety  of 
small  beetles  are  found.  Ants:  Small  red  and  black  ants  are  found  in 
dry,  sandy  ground.  Bees:  There  is  a  small  bumblebee,  which  acts 
and  looks  very  much  like  a  honeybee;  in  fact,  it  would  be  common  to 
mistake  it  for  a  honeybee,  as  has  been  done  by  other  explorers.  I 
myself  have  not  seen  a  honeybee  in  Copper  River  Valley.  These 
little  bumblebees  live  in  the  high,  dry  banks  of  streams.  Our  horses 
were  f  i-equently  attacked  by  them  while  traveling  along  the  high  banks 
of  the  Copper. 

Mammals  fotmd  in  the  Copper  Rher  Valley. — Moose:  Very  scarce 
and  \.ild.  Caribou:  To  be  found  in  small  droves  or  families  in  the 
foothills;  not  very  plentiful.  Mountain  sheep  r-  bighorn:  Quite 
plentiful  in  the  old  Alaskan  Range.    Mountain  goat:  Found  near  the 


138 


OOPPEB  BIVBR  EUPLOBIKG  EXPEDITION. 


Pi 


tops  of  the  Coast  Mountains.  Silver-tipped  grizzly:  Found  ii>  the 
valleys  and  mountains  of  the  interior.  White  spot  on  throat;  tip  ends 
of  hairi)  white;  inner  coat  black.  They  are  very  ferocious  and  give 
chase  to  man  in  defense  of  their  young. 

SCENERY. 

No  route  exists  that  equals  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  scenery 
found  on  the  trail  from  Valdez  through  the  valley  of  the  Copper  to 
the  Tanana  Kiver,  Alaska.  It  is  a  treat  to  the  lover  of  natural  scenery 
to  hie  himself  away  to  the  pleasant  recesses  of  these  Coa.c  Mountains 
on  a  warm  summer  day  and  drink  nectar  ''fit  for  the  gods"  from  the 
cool  streams.  He  can  almost  persuade  himself  that  little  gnomes  have 
deposited  diamonds  therein  to  enhance  the  beauties  thereof.  Preci- 
pices— perpendicular  walls  reaching  to  astonishing  and  dizzy  heights, 
wltere  the  eaglet  is  taught  his  first  lesson — loom  up  before  you.  We 
find  ourselves  vainly  endeavoring  to  comprehend*  the  immensity  of 
these  grand  and  sublime  surroundings,  trying  to  realize  that  the  vast 
waterfalls  pouring  over  the  bluffs  with  continuous  roar  are  fed  by 
melting  snows  and  glaciers  far  above  and  miles  away.  Truly  this 
Coast  Range  is  one  vast  collection  of  waterfalls.  They  roar  you  to 
sleen,  rumble  in  your  ears  until  you  awake  to  feast  your  eyes  on  their 
spreading  spray  and,  speechless  with  admiration,  you  stand  and  gaze 
at  the  beautiful  and  variegated  colors  of  their  rainbows. 

Addison  M.  Poweix. 

Capt.  W.  R.  Abercrombie, 

Second  United  States  Infantt^^ 

Commanding  Capper  River  Exploring  Esepedition. 


■M 


BEFORT   OF   MS.  SDWABD    OILLETTE,  ENaiNEEB    OF    COFFEE 
SIYER  EZFLORING  EXFEDITION. 


The  southern  coast  of  Alaska  affords  very  few  good  harbors.  This 
appears  to  be  greatly  due  to  the  fact  that  all  streams  emptying  into 
the  ocean  carry  vast  quantities  of  silt  and  earthy  matter,  which,  quickly 
depositing  as  the  ocean  is  reached,  forms  numerous  deltas  and  fills  up 
the  neighboring  coast  line  to  such  an  extent  that  sufficient  depth  of 
water  for  ordinary  vessels,  especially  at  low  water,  is  seldom  obtained. 
From  the  shore  bock  into  the  interior  the  coast  range  presents  few 
practicable  routes.  Nearly  all  the  canyons  and  drainages  along  these 
mountains  are  filled  with  ice  and  where  the  natural  routes  into  the 
interior,  as  a  rule,  would  be  found,  an  absolutely  prohibitory  condition 
for  travel  exists*  The  stupendous  masses  of  mountains  and  ice-filled 
canyons  and  valleys  back  of  the  green  wooded  islands  along  the  sea- 
coast,  while  forming  probably  the  grandest  scenery  on  this  continent, 
gives  no  encouragement  to  the  explorer  or  engineer  in  search  of  a 
practicable  route  for  a  railroad  into  the  interior  of  the  country,  com- 
bined with  that  of  starting  from  a  good  harbor. 

GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  ROUTES  FROM  SEATTLE,  WASH.,  TO  8KAGWAY 

AND  VALDEZ,    ALASKA. 

The  route  from  Seaitle  to  Skugway,  commonly  called  the  inside 
passage,  is  well  known  from  the  fact  that  mo^t  of  the  Alaskan  and 
Klondike  trade  has  been  conducted  this  way.  Until  recently  it  was 
thought  that  the  future  development  of  central  Alaska  would  be  gov- 
erned by  this  route,  which  passes  through  some  400  miles  of  foreign 
country,  and,  therefore,  subject  to  government  over  which  the  United 
States  has  no  control.  The  discoveries  made  recently  at  Valdez,  Alaska, 
of  an  excellent  harbor,  and  the  practicability  of  a  good  railroad  line 
from  this  point  to  the  Yukon  River  and  the  gold  country  of  the  North- 
west, makes  the  comparison  of  the  routes  invoUtJ  one  of  great  com- 
mercial interest.  The  chief  objections  to  the  inside  passage  are  its 
impracticability  for  sailing  vessels  (the  cheapest  method  of  freight 
transportation),  the  dangers  to  navigation  of  the  tortuous  narrows  and 
delays  caused  by  boing  obliged  to  wait  at  certain  places  for  a  favorable 
time  of  tide  in  order  to  make  the  passage.  A  high  rate  of  insurance 
is  maintained  on  vessels  and  cargoes  taking  this  route.  Its  value  in 
the  future  will  probably  be  mainly  that  for  local  freight  and  tourists' 
travel.  The  prevalence  of  dense  fogs  along  this  coast  makes  the  nar- 
row and  crooked  channels  especially  dangerous  for  navigation      The 

130 


140 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


chief  guide  for  the  pilots  is  the  echoes  from  the  neighboring  hills 
when  the  whistle  is  sounded.  In  Seymour  Narrows,  on  the  east  side 
of  Vancouver  Island,  the  velocity  of  the  current  reaches  as  high  a  rate 
as  30  miles  per  hour  in  the  spring  tide,  while  at  all  seasons  steamers 
wait  for  a  favorable  time  in  the  tides  to  make  the  passage.  The  swift 
current  in  the  narrows  is  caused  by  the  flow  of  the  tides  in  the  Gulf 
of  Georgia  on  the  south  and  Queen  Charlotte  Sound  on  the  north, 
being  suddenly  forced  into  the  very  narrow  passage  connecting  the 
two  large  bodies  of  water.  The  outside  or  open-sea  route  to  Valdez 
Bay  is  entirely  different.  After  passing  through  Puget  Sound  to  the 
ocean  a  direct  course  is  laid  for  Meiklejohn  Straits,  the  entrance  to 
Prince  William  Sound,  at  the  head  of  which  Valdez  is  located.  Maxi- 
mum speed  can  be  maintained  at  all  times  by  this  route  and  freight 
carried  to  Alaska  at  the  mininmm  price,  which  will  exercise  the  greatest 
influence  on  the  future  welfare  and  development  of  the  country.  The 
distance  from  Seattle  to  Skagway  is  1,050  miles;  from  Seattle  to  Valdez, 
1,250  miles.  This  difference  is  practically  offset  by  the  unimpeded 
passage  of  the  outside  route.  Valdez  being  415  miles  west  and  120 
miles  north  of  Skagway,  this  port  is  that  much  nearer  central  Alaska 
than  Skagway  and  200  miles  nearer  by  railroad  to  what  is  known  as 
the  Forty  Mile  country.  The  ruling  question,  however,  being  cheap 
freights,  the  element  of  fast  time  is  not  so  important  a  matter  as  that 
of  furnishing  supplies  to  miners  and  prospectors  at  the  lowest  prices 
possible.  Insurance  rates  afford  a  fair  index  of  the  comparative  safetj' 
of  the  two  routes,  those  on  the  inside  passage  being  double  that  of  the 
outside  passage. 

VALDEZ  BAY. 

Valdez  Bay  (86),  situated  at  the  head  of  Prince  William  Sound,  in 
.atitude  61°  5'  56",  longitude  146°  27'  34",  is  a  body  of  water  some  10 
miles  long  by  4  miles  wide.  This  bay  is  open  the  entire  year,  no  ice 
fonning  anywhere  except  for  a  short  distance  from  the  mouth  of 
Lowe  River,  the  extreme  head,  where  the  fresh  water  forms  at  times 
a  comparatively  thin  skim  of  ice  for  a  short  distance  from  the  shore. 
The  south  side  of  the  bay  affords  the  best  place  for  shipping.  Here 
no  large  streams  have  dumped  their  silt  and  gravel,  and  but  short 
wharves  will  have  to  be  built  to  secure  any  depth  desired.  The  shore 
line  also  affords  the  best  foundation  for  mills  and  railroad  terminals. 
Small  streams  cut  their  way  through  the  solid  rock  at  intervals  along 
this  shore,  affording  a  magnificent  supply  of  pure  water,  with  any 
pressure,  quickly  secured,  for  service  for  domestic  or  power  purposes. 

On  the  east  and  north  sides  of  the  harbor  mud  fiats  exist  (149),  formed 
by  the  detritus  brought  down  Lowe  River,  a  lake  stream,  and  the 
numerous  streams  caused  by  the  meltina"  of  Valdez  and  other  glaciei's 
in  the  immediate  vicinity.     Wherw  the     ;:.all  town  of  Valdez  has  been 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


141 


hastily  built  there  i.s  danger  at  any  time  of  having  the  Imildiii^'s  .swept 
into  the  bay  by  the  swift  and  quitrkly  changing  channels  fonned  by  the 
numerous  streams  flowing  from  uncertain  and  ever-changing  parts  of 
the  immense  Valdez  Glacier,  situated  some  4  miles  north  of  the  town. 
An  occurrence  of  this  natui'e  would  doubtless  cause  the  loss  of  many 
lives. 

THE   RAIliROAn   ROUTE. 

It  appearing  therefore  that  the  only  pi-acticable  point  for  establish- 
ing the  business  of  this  port  was  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay,  a  pre- 
liminary examination  of  the  country  from  here  was  made  to  determine 
the  best  route  from  the  harbor  to  the  summit  of  the  abrupt  coast 
range.  This  rd  nge  of  mountains  along  the  coast  appears  like  a  barrier 
to  the  interior,  and  consists  of  a  succession  of  huge  pinnacles,  com- 
monly called  a  saw-looth  range,  with  the  depressions  tilled  with  vast 
masses  r-f  ice,  forming  glaciers  which  extend  at  times  into  the  sea.  At 
the  sight  of  these  glaciers,  filling  the  canyons  and  coming  well  up  on 
the  sides  of  the  mountains,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  of  a  more  ''orbid- 
ding  and  impracticable  country  to  locate  a  railroad  line  across.  A 
quick  glance  at  the  surroundings  of  the  harbor  assures  one  that  up 
Lowe  River  the  only  possible  route  exists,  and  this  at  first  sight 
appears  anything  but  promising.  However,  as  one  journeys  up  the 
broad  smooth  valley  of  the  river  for  some  12  miles,  the  country  shows 
itself  built  on  a  larger  scale  than  first  appeared.  The  upper  end  of 
this  valley  seems  to  be  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  but  on  reach- 
ing the  extreme  end  a  canyon  is  discovered  coming  in  sharply  from  the 
left,  and  the  mountain  range  is  found  split  down  to  nearly  a  level  with 
the  outside  valley.  This  gorge  has  been  named  Keystone  Canyon.  It 
is  3  miles  in  length  and  connects  the  upper  and  lower  valleys  of 
Lowe  River.  This  upper  valley  is  similar  tt>  the  lower  one  in  that  it 
is  broad  and  flat  and  covered  for  the  mcst  part  to  a  considerable  depth 
with  gravel  suited  to  make  the  best  roadbed  or  ballast  for  railroad 
purposes.  This  flat  is  commonly  known  as  Dutch  Valley,  and  is  5 
miles  long  by  about  1  mile  in  width.  At  the  upper  end  Lowe  River 
is  found  to  have  made  a  small  canyon  for  itself,  which  extends  some 
10  miles  to  the  head  of  the  stream.  At  this  divide,  called  Marshall 
Pass,  the  drainage  basin  of  Copper  River  is  reached  at  an  elevation  of 
only  1,700  feet  above  sea  level,  and  the  coast  range  is  passed.  The 
approach  to  this  summit  on  the  north  is  a  broad  tpble-land  interspersed 
with  numerous  little  lakes.  Beyond  this  summit  the  route  would  fol- 
low down  Tasnuna  River  on  the  north  side  to  Copper  River,  and 
thence  up  that  stream  through  Woods  Canyon  to  the  great  open  val- 
ley beyond,  from  which  points  on  the  Tanana  River,  Forty  Mile,  and 
the  Yukon  are  reached  with  comparatively  light  work  and  easy  grade. 
From  Dutch  Valley,  however,  on  Lowe  River,  it  was  deemed  best,  in 


142 


OOPl'ER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


order  to  save  distance  and  avoid  the  heavy  work  in  Woods  Canyon 
on  Copper  River,  to  make  the  climb  to  Thompson  Pass,  where  the 
trans- Alaskan  trail  crosses  the  divide,  and  proceed  from  here  in  a 
more  direct  route  across  the  western  drainage  of  Copper  River,  hold- 
ing the  elevation  obtained  and  avoiding  the  heavy  rockwork,  low  ele- 
vation, and  greater  distance  involved  in  the  route  to  Copper  River  via 
Marshall  Pass. 

The  development  of  the  country  in  the  future  will  probably  neces- 
sitate a  railroad  line  over  both  routes.  The  lino  as  surveyed  has  been 
so  placed  as  to  command  both  routes  without  loss  of  distance  or  grade. 
From  Dutch  Valley  to  Thompson  Pass  the  elevation  to  be  overcome  is 
2,000  feet.  Fortunately  for  the  success  of  this  route,  the.  side  wall  of 
the  valley  is  formed  by  a  succession  of  flats  called  "benches,"  which 
are  from  60  to  500  yards  wide  and  afford  a  most  excellent  opportunity 
to  support  a  x'uilroad  line  and  furnish  all  the  room  desired  to  develop 
distance  and  reach  the  summit  with  practically  any  grade  desired.  An 
examination  of  the  country  from  Thompson  Pass  down  to  tide  water 
showed  two  possible  routes,  one  lieing  a  supported  line  direct  from  '^ho 
summit  to  tide  water,  the  other  by  developing  a  line  along  the  benchei^ 
until  the  valley  of  Ijowe  River  was  reached,  from  which  point  the 
water  grade  of  the  stream  would  be  followed  to  the  bay.  The  direct 
route  from  the  summit  down,  while  about  (5  miles  shorter,  involved 
engineering  features  of  imch  magnitude  that  it  was  quickly  abandoned. 
The  main  features  of  this  route  would  be  the  crossing  of  several  glacier 
streams,  requiring  bridges  of  spans  varying  from  500  to  1,000  feet  in 
length  and  700  to  800  feet  above  the  streams,  as  well  as  costly  rock- 
work  along  the  steep  cliffs,  unavoidable  in  establishing  any  practicable 
gradient. 

THE   RAILROAD   SURVEY. 

It  therefore  being  determined  to  develop  a  line  along  the  benches 
and  reaching  the  valley  of  Lowe  River  as  soon  as  practicable,  I  com- 
menced a  survey  at  the  summit  in  order  to  command  to  the  best  advan- 
tage the  country  below.  A  maximum  equated  grade  of  3  per  cent  and 
10-degree  curves  was  adopted  and  the  line  run  on  this  basis  for  12 
miles,  at  which  point  the  smooth  flats  along  the  rivers  were  reached. 
From  here  to  the  harbor  a  1  per  cent  grade  or  less  was  easily  secured. 
The  character  of  the  line  surveyed  is  as  follows:  Each  mile  of  the  road 
being  called  a  section,  and  the  sections  numbered  f  rova  the  terminal  on 
the  bay  to  a  point  just  beyond  the  summit,  sections  1  and  2  are  located 
close  to  the  shore  line  and  require  heavy  work  in  grading.  The  cuts 
and  fills  average  10  feet  in  height.  The  material  would  all  classify  as 
solid  and  loose  rock,  the  cuts  furnishing  most  of  the  material  for  the 
fills.  The  roadbed  at  this  place  should  be  wide  enough  for  a  double 
track,  and  later  additional  tracks  could  be  laid  as  the  business  of  the 


COPPER   RIVER'  EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


148 


line  may  demand.  The  next  11  milcH  iH  practically  all  tangent,  and 
follows  up  the  valley  of  Lowe  River.  The  work  on  the^o  sections 
is  all  in  embankment  and  extremely  light.  No  fill  as  deep  as  10  feet 
occurs,  and  an  average  embankment  of  4  feet  places  the  roadbed  safely 
above  the  highest  flood.  The  material  for  making  the  fill  on  this 
stretch  of  line  consists  of  loose  gravel,  unlimited  in  quantity  and  con- 
venient of  access.  On  section  3  the  largest  bridge  on  the  lino  will  be 
required  for  the  crossing  of  Lowe  River.  This  stream  flows  from 
10,000  to  12,000  cubic  feet  per  second  in  the  high-water  season,  the 
volume  of  water  gradually  decreasing  until  late  in  the  fall,  when  the 
flow  has  reduced  itself  to  300  cubic  feet  or  less  per  second. 

In  providing  for  the  maximum  flow  a  bridge  consisting  of  two  spans 
of  200  feet  each  is  recommended.  From  section  3  to  the  beginning  of 
section  14  the  line  is  located  along  the  north  side  of  the  valley  and 
crosses  several  side  channels  of  the  river.  The  flat  through  which  the 
river  runs  is  fully  a  mile  wide  on  the  average,  and  here  the  stream  has 
been  accustomed  to  make  its  own  channels  at  will,  sometimes  spread- 
ing out  in  niunberless  channels  and  again  confining  itself  to  a  single 
passage.  The  valley  is  so  wide  and  the  drainage  basin  of  Lowe  River 
so  comparatively  small  that  the  flow  of  the  stream  can  never  cover  the 
entire  valley.  In  a  few  places  dikes  should  be  constructed  to  guide 
the  water  away  from  the  roadbed,  where  it  will  soon  cut  a  permanent 
channel  and  be  no  menace  to  the  railroad.  The  material  for  the  fill 
should  be  borrowed  from  the  north  side  of  the  line,  away  from  the 
river,  leaving  a  berm  or  the  natural  surface  of  the  ground  for  a  dis- 
tance of  100  feet  from  the  base  of  the  embankment.  This  will  form  a 
channel  for  all  the  side  drainage  in  this  locality,  which  will  be  guided 
directly  to  the  bay,  thus  saving  any  bridges  or  openings  from  section 
3  to  section  14.  Sections  14,  16,  and  16  are  in  Keystone  Canyon  and 
constitute  all  the  canyon  work  of  the  entire  line  tq  the  summit  and  for 
a  considerable  distance  beyond.  In  Key'  0*^6  Canyon  the  mother  rock 
of  the  country  shows  up  to  good  advu  {^.  It  is  all  slate,  as  is  the 
case  with  all  rock  observed  on  the  line.  Its  cleavage  is  nearly  vertical 
and  easy  to  drill,  except  where  small  seams  of  quartz  exist.  The  Hiate 
rock  on  the  south  side  of  the  summit  is  firm  and  solid  as  a  rule,  but 
on  the  north  side  it  is  very  much  disintegrated.  The  construction  of 
the  line  through  the  3  miles  of  Keystone  Canyon  will  be  fairly  heavy 
canyon  work,  somewhat  similar  to  the  average  of  the  work  through  the 
Black  Canyon  of  Gunnison  River,  on  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Rail- 
way, in  Colorado.  The  bed  of  the  canyon  varies  from  100  to  500  feet 
in  width.  There  were  no  marks  of  very  high  water  in  any  part  of  the 
canyon — in  fact,  the  vegetation  growing  on  the  low  bottoms,  consist- 
ing of  grass,  brush,  and  trees,  indicates  that,  as  a  rule,  the  water  does 
not  rise  more  than  4  feet  in  nearly  the  v^bple  lepgth  of  the  canyon. 


144 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


,i  ( 


KoyHtono  Canyon  w  entered  by  going  through  a  low  pa«H  hi  a  spur 
divide,  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  canyon.  This 
shortens  the  line,  saves  very  sharp  curvature,  and  places  the  roadbed 
safe  from  the  wash  of  the  river.  The  west  side  of  the  canyon  fur- 
nishes the  better  route  to  near  the  head,  as  the  east  wall  is  more  abrupt 
and  would  require  the  heaviest  character  of  rockwork  in  order  to  cut 
a  roadbed  along  the  almost  peipendicular  slopes.  The  line  therefore 
follows  the  west  side  to  the  head  of  the  canyon  and  is  located  for  the 
most  part  on  the  talus  formed  by  the  loose  rock  at  the  foot  of  the  walls 
and  a)K)ut  16  feet  a>)ove  low  water.  The  sidehill  or  side-wall  cuts 
will  make  alnnit  two-thirds  of  the  fills,  the  balance  of  the  material 
being  obtained  from  the  gravel  bars,  which,  as  a  rule,  are  wpll  above  the 
water  line  and  close  to  the  roadway.  There  is  but  little  side  drainage 
to  the  canyon,  and  this  is  easily  provided  for  by  small  culverts,  with 
the  exception  of  Waterfall  Creek,  which  crosses  the  line  on  section  14. 
This  little  stream  forms  a  beautiful  cascade,  with  of  several  hun- 

dred feet  in  height,  and  finally  buries  itself  ia  the  ock  at  the  base 

of  the  canyon  wall.  Some  .50  feet  distant  from  the  line  this  stream  will 
require  a  bridge  of  three  16-foot  spans.  The  profile  of  the  line  through 
the  canyon  shows  short  cuts  and  fills  and  sidehill  work  to  prevail. 
For  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  about  the  middle  of  the  canyon,  narjfows  are 
formed  by  the  side  walls  being  nearer  together.  Here  heavy  rock- 
work  is  essential,  and  the  abrupt  walls  for  50  to  75  feet  in  height  will 
have  to  be  cut  down  in  order  to  secure  room  for  the  roadbed.  At  the 
head  of  the  canyon  the  river,  dashing  against  a  perpendicular  wall  of 
ro<;k,  is  sharply  deflected  to  the  left  for  600  feet,  and  then  gradually 
assumes  its  general  direction,  which  it  follows  closely  to  the  mouth  of 
the  canyon.  This  abrupt  turn  in  the  river  necessitates  a  crossing  of  the 
stream,  which  requires  a  span  of  about  150  feet  and  a  sharp  cut  through 
a  rocky  point  on  the  opposite  side.  The  natural  abutments  on  both 
sides  of  the  stream  make  this  point  a  favorable  one  to  bridge  it. 

Passing  on  from  the  bead  of  the  canyon  a  quarter  of  a  mile  the 
river  comes  in  more  from  the  right  and  another  crossing  is  made  in 
order  to  place  the  line  on  the  smooth  part  of  the  valley,  free  from  any 
effect  of  washing  currents,  and  to  get  to  the  best  point  from  which  to 
commence  the  climb  to  the  summit.  By  crossing  the  river  at  the 
head  of  the  canyon  the  light  curvature  of  the  line  is  maintained,  and 
the  only  point  along  the  route  where  the  snow  slides  would  be  trouble- 
some to  the  maintenance  of  the  line  is  avoided.  On  section  17,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  upper  valley  we  have  now  entered,  the  line  is 
located  along  the  edge  of  a  bluff  from  10  to  60  feet  in  height,  com- 
posed of  gravel  and  sand,  and  furnishing  an  excellent  opportunity  to 
cheaply  secure  what  gravel  is  necessary  to  ballast  the  roadbed  beyond. 

On  section  18  a  glacier  stream  is  encountered  close  to  the  point 
where  the  Trans- A-lftskan  military  road  makes  a  crossing  by  means  of 


COPPEB  BIVEB  BXPLOBINO   EXPEDITIoy. 


145 


a  bridgn,  consiHtiii^  of  two  HpuiiN  of  HO  tiiid  24  feot,  8upporiod  on  Htoiio- 
filled  cribs,  and  10  foot  abovo  low  wiittu*  (46).  THIh  will  rociuiro  a 
bridgo  of  76-f{»ot  span  for  tho  railroad.  As  all  tho  l>rid}^0H  on  tho 
military  road  successfully  withstood  tho  high  wattn*  of  181H),  this  fact 
is  considorod  of  considorablo  itnportanco  in  furnishing  data  from 
which  to  establish  the  gmdo  line  and  length  of  spjin  necessary  for  tho 
railroad  crossing.  Tho  light  gi-ado  so  far  maintained  of  50  feet  |)er 
mile  or  loss  ends  on  section  10  and  a  heavy-grade  division  iK^gins  tho 
climb  to  tho  summit.  Near  tho  foot  of  this  heavy  grade  the  last  gla- 
cier stream  is  (srossod  (62).  This  will  require  a  bridge  150  f(?et  long. 
Tho  gradu  from  horo  for  2  miles  follows  closely  the  military  road, 
then  swings  to  tho  right  along  a  fairly  smooth  sido  hill  and  approat^hes 
closely  tho  outlet  of  tho  upper  canyon  of  Lowe  River.  This  part  of 
the  lino,  consisting  of  sections  19  to  22,  inclusive,  gives  comparatively 
light  side-hill  work,  the  cIm  ^sification  in  cuts  being  one-third  loose 
ro(;k,  one-fourth  solid  roc  Is,  and  tho  balance  pick  and  shovel  work. 

On  section  22  timber  line  is  reached  at  an  elevation  1,050  feet  a))ove 
sea  level.  From  this  point  to  tho  summit  tho  lino  follows  up  the 
benches,  making  turns  on  tho  broad  parts  of  the  flat  and  gradually 
supporting  to  the  next  bench  above.  All  the  work  from  section  22  to 
section  30  is  practically  side-hill  excavation,  with  light  cuts  and  fills, 
except  at  tho  points  of  swinging  on  to  the  flats  alwve,  where  a  few 
cuts  10  to  20  feet  deep  and  about  200  feet  long  are  unavoidable. 

On  sections  25,  27,  and  30  crossings  of  a  sido  drainage  are  made, 
which  will  require  trestles  from  60  to  70  feet  in  height  by  froni  :.yn)  to 
150  feet  in  length.  These  are  tho  highest  bridges  on  the  line  and  can 
be  replaced  in  the  future  by  culverts,  as  tho  drainage  basin  involved 
is  of  limited  area,  so  that  no  great  volume  of  water  has  to  be  pro- 
vided for.  The  benches  crossed  are  covered  for  the  most  part  with  a 
dense  growth  of  alder  brush,  which  extends  up  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tain 1,000  feet  above  timber  line.  From  here  to  the  summit  moss  and 
grass  are  the  only  vegetation  grown. 

From  section  30  to  Thompson  Pass,  on  section  32,  the  route  conforms 
to  the  second  bench  from  the  summit,  the  slope  of  which  is  practically 
that  of  the  grade  adopted  and  consequently  a  light  fill,  easy  work,  and 
curvature  is  here  obtained. 

On  section  32  the  crossing  of  the  sharp  ridge  of  the  summit  is  made 
with  the  grade  line  126  feet  lower  than  the  pass.  This  necessitates  a 
tunnel  from  400  to  600  feet  in  length  and  starts  the  line  well  on  its 
way  down  Ptarmigan  Creek,  a  tributary  of  Tiekell  River,  one  of  the 
principal  streams  flowing  into  Copper  River  from  the  west. 

To  find  a  practicable  line  from  tide  water  over  the  summit  of  the  Coast 

Range  has  always  been  considered  the  key  to  the  interior  country,  and 

this,  in  connection  with  a  good  harbor  for  all  kinds  of  vessels,  is  what 

has  heretofore  been  undiscovered  in  spite  of  the  earnest  andexhaustiva 

S.  Doc.  306 10 


w 

ipi    li 

i  1 

14fi 


copi*j:«  river  exploring  expedition. 


seivi'ch  iiiado  for  .same,  lioyond  the  Coant  Kangc  the  interior  of 
Alaska  from  Thoiiipison  Pass  has  been  reported  '>y  all  explorers  as 
present! Mj:^  no  great  obstacles  for  the  location  and  construction  of  a 
railroad  line  on  reasonably  light  grade,  good  alignment,  and  moderate 
cost  of  constru<^tion. 


I 


GAUOK   OK   UAILROAD. 

To  reduce  th«'  cost  of  construction  on  this  railroad  route  to  a  mini- 
mum, it  •  i  recommended  that  the  line  be  ■ 'onstructed  on  a  3-foot 
gauge.  There  is  no  question  in  Alaska  of  n  connectioi;  with  other 
Kiilroads  having  a  different  gauge,  where  transfer  of  freight  is  essen- 
tial. The  vifail  point  is  to  build  a  good  line,  f'rst,  upon  the  best  loca- 
tion the  country  affords;  secondly,  with  us  little  money  as  possible 
invested,  so  that  the  line  (!an  be  operated  to  good  advantage  and  sup- 
plies moved  at  the  minimum  cost.  It  is  conceded  that  the  paying 
freights  on  a  narrow-gauge  line  bears  a  greater  percentage  to  the  load 
moved  than  is  the  case  on  standard-j^auge  routes.  In  the  grading  of 
the  line  a  nari'ower  roadlxd  is  assured,  and  this  vdone  makes  a  vapt 
saving  in  (luantities  and  <tost,  while  lighter  ties  and  rails  will  reduce 
the  (^ost  greatly  at  a  time  when  the  facilities  for  moving  freight 
cheaply  to  this  country  a'ul  the  inside  of  Alaska  is  in  its  infan<\v.  As 
the  grades  and  curvature  of  the  Kuc,  as  locate^,  are  so  light,  a  change 
eouid  l)e  made  later  to  standard  gauge,  if  desired,  without  any  altera- 
tion in  the  location  of  the  line. 

COMPAIUSON    WITH    WHITK    I'ASS    AND   YTTKON    KAILR.    .1), 

Compared  to  the  narrow-gauge  line  now  in  operation  from  hkagway 
over  White  Pass  to  liuke  liennett,  the  only  railroad  now  in  Aliska,  the 
showing  is  as  follows,  on  a  few  vital  points : 

Maximum  grade  on  White  Pass  and  Yukon  liailway,  206  feet  pftr 
mile  on  both  sides  of  pass. 

Maximum  grade  on  Vald'v,  route,  1.50  feet  going  noi-th  and  1.91)  feet 
south. 

Maximuuj  curvature  on  Whiti^  Pass  and  Yukon  Railway,  16  degrees. 

Maxinuun  curvature  on  Valdoz  rout(>,  li)  degrees. 

Elevation  of  sunnnit  White  Pass  and  Yukon  Railway,  2,880  feet. 

Elevation  of  sununit  Vakkv;  route,  ^,550  feet,  or  1,700  feet  via 
Marshall  Pass. 

Besides  th(\  above,  it  is  understood  that  the  White  Pass  and  Yukon 
Railroad  is  handicapped  greatly  in  its  operation  !)y  snowslidcs.  On 
the  Yaldez  route  this  serious  impediment  to  travel  has  been  practically 
eliminated  by  the  jwculiar  formation  of  the  (country  and  the  careful 
placing  of  the  line.  The  very  importarit  condition  is  alio  obtained  (or 
this  country  in  having  a  route  entirely  in  Tnited  States  territory,  aud 


41 
f 


COPPEK   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


147 


3rior  of 
orers  as 
ion  of  u 
lodemte 


thus  avoiding  all  tho  complications  rcHiiltinjji;  from  (Midoavoring  to 
develop  a  vast  territory  full  of  mineral  wealth  across  iOO  miles  of 
foreign  soil. 

Valdez  Harbor  and  the  route  via  Keystone  Canyon  to  t\w  divide 
furnishes  the  most  practicable  and  (>coiiomical  rout<^  for  the  develop- 
ment of  central  Alaska,  and  bids  fair  to  more  than  hold  its  own  for 
the  fi'eight  business  of  Dawson  and  vicinity.  Wi*h  a  iine  harbor  open 
the  year  around  and  a  railroad  route  comparativel}^  free  from  block- 
ades, built  on  lighter  grades  and  curvature  than  the  other  route,  Valdez 
may  well  lay  claim  to  being  th<^  main  gateway  for  vVlaska  comnjerce. 

llUaiNKSS. 

The  trade  of  central  Alaska  is  comparati\'ely  an  unknown  quantity 
at  the  present  time.  A  greater  part  of  this  region  has  3'et  to  be 
explored  and  then  pi-ospected.  Rumor  has  always  given  this  countrj' 
the  reputation  of  having  vast  mineml  deposits  of  copper  ore,  and  this 
is  being  demonstrated  as  a  fact  by  the  few  prospectors  and  explorers 
who  have  examined  a  small  part  of  this  territory. 

Gold  mining  on  Foi-ty-Mile  Creek  has  assumed  quite  an  importance, 
and  a  few  recent  discoveries  of  gold  south  anr'  west  of  the  above-named 
place  indicate  that  there  will  l)e  several  new  gold  mining  districts 
developed  in  the  near  future. 

The  great  di*ainage  basin  of  Tanaiia  River  will  be  made  cheaiily 
acce^ssible,  and  Copper  River,  with  all  of  its  tributaries,  will  be 
brought  close  to  the  United  States  in  point  of  tune  and  clu^ipnes!--  of 
transportation. 

A  main  line  of  railway  from  Valdez  co  the  Yukon  will  command  a 
large  amount  of  freight  now  going  b}'  other  routes  and  greatly  stim- 
ulate the  settlement  and  developnunfcof  a  vast  country.  Bran<'h  lines 
will  later  be  constructed  to  accommodate  the  ])usiness  resulting  from 
the  discovery  of  copper  ai;.l  gold  in  this  highly  mineializcd  section. 
Discoveries  of  coal  rec*  utly  made  at  several  points  will  (expedite  the 
Avork  of  opening  up  this  region.  Vv  hat  discoveries  will  be  mad(^  the 
coming  season  no  one  can  foretell,  but  it  is  my  belief  that  a  i-ailway 
construcied  immediately  over  the  route  as  indicated  would  have  a  pay- 
ing business  as  soon  as  it  could  be  opened  for  trax'cl  and  f »'eiglit. 
Thousands  of  miles  of  protitjible  railway  have  been  built  in  the  rnited 
States  in  less  promising  regions. 

VAT.uk   of   this   nOUTR   TO   THE    IINITKI)   STATKS. 

It  is  of  considerable  value  to  this  country  in  iiaving  this  niiiin  route 
for  transportation  within  its  own  territory'  and,  const^juently,  juris- 
diction. Some  of  tho  many  complications  which  have  arisen  in  the 
Canadian  Northwest  Territory  will  be  eliminated,  and  Alaska  devt^loped 


148 


COPPER  BIVEB  EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


without  the  hindrance  or  consent  of  a  foreign  country.  This  deseiTes 
our  patriotic  consideration.  Our  prospectors  will  have  an  opportunity 
of  getting  into  the  region  at  the^'li^ad  of  the  Tanana  River  and  its 
eastern  tributaries,  and  on  soil  belonging  to  the  United  States.  With  a 
competent  competing  route  to  Dawson  that  country  would  be  greatly 
benefited,  and  would  aid  in  the  settlement  of  pending  questions  with 
the  Canadian  Government. 

8TCX)K   KAISING   AND   FARMING. 

Development  of  the  country  in  the  nature  of  farming  and  stock  rais- 
ing depends  mainly  upon  the  local  market.  In  many  sections  of  the 
country  hay  can  be  harvested  cheaply  and  in  great  quantities,  and  all 
demands  of  this  country  in  the  future  can  be  met  by  the  local  produc- 
tion. 1  have  seen  quite  a  variety  of  vegetables  grown  here.  The  soil 
is  exceedingly  productive,  and  I  believe  that  the  hardy  farmei-s  from 
Norway  and  Sweden  would  succeed  in  fai'ming  here  as  successfully  as 
in  their  own  country. 

WATER. 

There  is  the  greatest  abundance  of  pure  water  everywhere.  The 
streams  are  filled  with  trout.  Gravity  pipe  lines  can  be  laid  at  almost 
any  point  desired,  quickly  securing  the  necessary  fall  to  fill  the  water 
tanks  along  the  railway  line  and  for  any  other  power  desired. 

TIMBER. 

There  is  abundance  of  timber  along  Prince  William  Sound  and  in 
the  interior,  sufficient  to  furnish  a  good  quality  of  material  for  ties, 
bridging,  and  all  wood  construction  in  general.  While  the  trees  do 
not  grow  to  such  size  as  is  the  case  farther  south,  timber  3  feet  in 
diameter  is  no  unusual  occurrence,  and  great  forests  of  a  good  growth 
and  size  for  ties  extend  over  a  large  area  in  the  interior.  The  nature 
of  the  timber  is  that  of  the  fir,  spruce,  hemlock,  and  pine. 


I      I 


CX)8T  OP  LINE. 

Grading: 

2  miles  along  Valdez  Bay,  including  terminals $100, 000 

11  DQ'lea  along  the  sn^ooth  valley  of  Lowe  River 55, 000 

3  miles  in  Keystone  Canyon 100,000 

3  miles  in  Dutch  Valley 20, 000 

12  miles  to  summit  along  benches 100, 000 

1  mile  crossing  summit,  including  500-foot  tunnel 40, 000 

416,000 

Bridging .• $100,000 

32  miles  of  rails,  56  pounds  steel  per  yard,  3,500  tons,  at  $40,  delivered 140, 000 


COPPER  BIVEB   EXPLOKING   EXPEDITION.  149 

90,000  ties,  at  33icente 30,000 

For  laying  tracks,  engineering  expenses,  water  tanks,  and  buildings  outaide 
of  terminals 68,500 

Total 753,500 

Or  $22,631  per  mile. 

The  prices  here  used  are  from  25  to  50  per  cent  higher  than  is  the 
average  elsewhere  in  the  United  States.  Such  a  line  in  our  Western 
country,  built  upon  a  15-foot  roadway  on  fills  and  20  feet  in  cuts  would 
cost  not  more  than  $16,000  per  mile.  A  direct  line  from  Valdez  to 
Fort  Egbert,  on  the  Yukon  River,  is  310  miles  long.  Allowing  350 
miles  for  the  length  of  the  railway  would  afford  all  the  diversion 
required  from  a  direct  line. 

The  cost  of  the  entire  line,  with  equipment,  ready  for  business,  will 
not  exceed  $20,000  per  mile. 

The  members  of  the  expedition  detailed  on  this  special  work  were 
C.  £.  Worthington,  transit  man;  J.  S.  Grinnell,  assistant  transit  man 
and  leveler;  B.  H.  Topping,  rodman;  D.  B.  Creek,  J.  Ingram.  Oscar 
Johnson,  axman  and  flagman;  and  Christopher  Tjosvig,  as  cook. 

The  pack  train  of  the  expedition  moved  camp  as  desired,  and  kept 
the  same  well  supplied  with  f  Ov^d. 

Respectfully  submitted. 

Edward  Gillette. 


GENERAL  SKETCH  OF  THE  UPPER  TANANA  AND  ITS  WATERSHED. 

(For  reference,  see  Map  of  €opper  Kiver  Exploring  ExpediUon,  1899.) 


i 


Hi 


OUTLINE. 


The  general  outline  of  the  Upper  Xanana  Basin  bears  some  resem- 
blance to  an  elongated  horseshoe,  with  its  immense  glacier  at  the  south 
end  as  the  toe.  The  main  valley  is  about  40  miles  in  length' and  varies 
from  2  to  7  miles  in  width,  being  broadest  about  12  miles  below  the 
glacitu"  and  narrowest  at  its  lower  end.  It  is  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains in  every  direction  except  toward  the  north,  where  a  view  of  the 
cours(5  of  the  Tanana  for  70  miles  can  be  obtained,  the  river  winding 
through  heavily  wooded  foothills  in  that  direction. 

Of  the  valley  space,  from  about  one-sixth  to  one-third  is  taken  up 
by  the  r>  or  (a  large  body  of  water  of  glacial  origin  heading  in  an 
immense  glaci'^r  at  the  bead  of  the  valley).  It  has  a  very  wide  bottom 
and  is  divided  into  numerous  comparatively  shallow  streams  (with  a 
current  of  about  7  miles  per  hour),  occ8;Sjionally  cutting  into  its  tim- 
bered banks  and  leaving  the  original  bottom  nearly  dry.  The  remain- 
der of  the  valley  space  i.s  occupied  by  foothillf  of  glacial  debris 
(momine),  and  in  some  instances  country  rock.  Veiy  few  swamps  of 
any  extent  exist,  the  valley  having  a  fairly  good  drainage  and  the 
tributary  strc^ams  ji<'nei"all3'^  consisting  of  merely  rocky  torrents  cut- 
ting through  deep  !h>k  canyons.  The  mountain  ranges  decrease  in 
altitude  toward  the  north  and  increase  toward  the  south  until  theii' 
highest  point  is  reached,  which  appears  to  be  the  Wrangell  group,  three 
distinct  spurs  of  which  gi'oap  are  discernible  from  the  Tanana  range. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  river  ^he  range  is  a  series  of  ragged,  precipitous 
peaks,  like  the  teeth  of  a  saw,  imd  to  all  appearance  no  paso  exists  over 
them  for  30  miles  below  the  glacier.  On  the  west  side  the  mountains 
are  of  the  dome-shaped  and  sugar-loaf  variety,  having  many  terraced 
slopes  and  are  crossed  by  pa8so^   it  numerous  points. 

GENERAL  GE«  >fX)OICAL  FEATURES. 

The  general  formatioi)  tends  southeast  to  northwest,  having  a  dip  of 
about  20^  to  the  northeast.  It  is  composed  of  limes  of  the  Upper 
Silurian  and  Lower  Carboniferous  groups,  on  the  west  side  having  an 
unconformable  capping  of  basalt  and  on  the  east  side  a  similar  capping 
of  white  marble.  That  volcanic  action  has  been  pi'evalent  to  a  large 
extent  is  evinced  by  the  large  number  of  contortions  and  faults  existing 
160 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


151 


in  tho  formations.  The  country  is  traversed  by  a  nuniher  of  dikes  of 
intrusive  granite,  dolerite,  and  porpiiyry,  the  last  named  heavily 
impregnated  with  the  sulphides  of  iron,  copper  molybdenium,  and,  in 
some  instances,  lead.  Native  copper  is  found  in  stringers  and  also  in 
the  creek  bottoms  as  float ;  also  small  pieces  of  coal  of  the  lignitic 
variety. 

TIMBER. 

The  country  is  heavily  timbered  by  spruce,  cottonwood,  l)irch,  )>alm 
of  Gilead,  and  quaking  aspen.  The  spruce  is  of  exceptionally  good 
quality  for  the  interior,  trees  ol'  a  diameter  of  18  inches  being  fairly 
common.  During  the  last  sunnuer  a  number  of  boats  were  built  in 
this  vicinity  by  prospectors  and  by  them  taken  down  the  rivers.  Grass 
is  abundant,  generally  of  the  redtop  variety,  and  exists  in  patches  of 
40  acres  and  upward,  growing  to  an  average  height  of  15  iru'lies. 
Wild  berries  of  various  kinds  are  common,  of  which  the  following  are 
some  varieties :  Currants,  red  and  black ;  blueberries,  raspberries, 
dewberries,  cranberries,  and,  on  the  mountain  side,  crow  berries. 

MAMMALS,  ETC. 

Fox,  caribou,  moose,  bear  (cinnamon,  black,  and  silver  tip),  beaver, 
and  porcupine  are  met  with,  while  sheep  of  the  bighorn  variet}'^  are 
plentiful.     Flocks  of  50  sheep  are  not  uncommoii. 

Fish  arc  plentiful  in  clear-water  streams,  trout  and  grayling  being 
most  commonly  met  with.  The  salmon  do  not  run  down  to  the  Tanana 
head  waters. 

Ptarmigan  are  plentiful  in  the  winter  and  spring ;  C'anada  grouse 
and  pheasant  during  the  summer  months.  The  moor  duck,  mallard, 
and  grebe,  also  geese,  can  be  found  nesting  about  every  lake. 

AGRIOULTUKAL. 

Potatoes,  beets,  turnips,  radishes,  and  anions  of  the  hardy  varieties 
would  thrive.  Of  the  cereals,  oats,  I'ye,  and  probably  Russian  wheat 
would  do  well. 


SKETCH  OP  TRAIL,  (COPPER  RIVER  KASIN  TO  UPPER  TANANA  »A8IN. 
TRAIL  VIA  IIACKKNEHA  CREEK  TO  MAIN  TANANA. 

Leaving  the  old  trail  at  Cache  Creek,  at  the  point  where  Lieutenant 
Lowo  left  a  cache  in  1898,  and  following  the  foothills  of  Mount  Sanford 
in  a  northeasterly  direction,  the  trail  proceeds  through  scattering 
timber  and  at  a  distance  of  10  miles  crosses  a  cHar-water  stream  some 
20  feet  wide,  keeping  between  Cornwall  ridge  and  the  foothills  and 
still  keeping  the  same  coui"se,  crosses  a  rapid  glacier  stream,  2  feet 
deep,  at  a  distance  of  9  miles. 


152 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


!| 


Between  Cache  Creek  and  the  glacier  stream  the  trail  passes  several 
small  lakes  on  the  right  and  left  hand  sides.  About  2  miles  beyond 
the  glacier  stream  the  trail  descends  toward  the  Copper  River,  which 
at  this  point  is  visible,  as  is  also  a  gap  in  the  Suslota  Range,  bearing 
N.  80°  E.,  and  striking  tlie  Copper  River  at  a  point  about  8  miles 
above  the  Slahna  Rivviir,  crosses  on  a  gravelly  bottom,  making  an  easy 
ford;  then  bearing  east  for  a  mile  strikes  the  regular  Indian  trail  at 
the  mouth  of  Bacheneda  Creek,  distant  1  mile,  following  the  creek  for 
2  miles,  and  crossing  at  the  house  of  "John,"  an  Indian  chief  of  that 
district;  then  following  the  other  bank  for  4  miles  the  trail  turns  to 
the  right  up  a  bench  abouJ;  150  feet  high.  Following  this  bench  for 
4  miles  the  trail  forks,  the  right  fork  leading  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Copper  River,  the  left  fork  leading  to  Lake  Tcnadev.,  the  source  of  the 
Bacheneda,  distant  15  miles.  Fording  t>he  Backeneda  at  the  foot  of 
the  lake  the  trail  forks  again,,  the  one  on  the  right  runs  to  the  head 
of  Lake  Tenadin  and  then  to  thv<?  west  fork  of  the  Tanana. 

The  one  on  the  loft  bears  due  north  for  2  miles,  passes  another 
lake  on  the  left,  turns  east  and  follows  the  valley  about  10  miles  to  a 
third  lake.  This  lake  drains  into  the  Tanana  watershed.  The  trail 
then  passes  to  the  right  of  this  lake  and  follows  down  the  valley. 
The  Tanana  is  struck  5  miles  below  the  west  fork. 

This  trail  after  turning  into  the  Copper  River  bottom  is  neavily 
wooded  for  its  entire  length,  the  spruoe  timber  averaging  15  inches 
in  diameter.  There  is  abundance  of  feed  for  horses  everywhere  dur- 
ing the  summer  months.  At  Chief  John's  house  on  the  Backeneda 
is  a  patch  of  over  40  acres  of  the  finest  hay  land,  and  at  Lake  Tenaden 
and  the  surrounding  country  any  required  amount  of  hay  can  be  cut. 
Very  little,  if  any,  swamp  land  has  to  be  traversed  and  comparatively 
no  declivities  to  ascend  or  descend.  The  Tik.nana,  at  the  point  where 
this  trail  strikes  it,  is  fordable  for  horses. 


TBAIL  TO  WEST  FORK  OF  TANANA  VIA   LAKK  TKNADIN. 

This  trail  forks  to  the  right  from  the  main  Tanana  trail  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Tenaden.  It  then  follows  the  lake  to  its  het.\d,  then  bears  south 
for  10  miles  to  a  fork;  the  left  fork  leading  over  a  low  divide,  striking 
the  river  about  7  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  main  stream.  The 
right  fork  continues  in  the  same  general  direction  and  passes  a  series 
of  small  lakes,  striking  the  river  at  the  junction  of  the  two  glacier 
streams  which  form  its  bed.        - 

Notes. — This  trail  can  be  used  for  pack  horses  and  is  an  easy  route 
to  the  glaciers  and  country.  Immediately  at  the  Tanana  headwaters 
there  is  a  fair  amount  of  timber  up  to  w?thin  10  miles  of  the  glacier, 
at  which  point  it  becomes  scrubby  and  scattering. 


COPPER  BIVBB   EXPLOBINO    EXPEDITION. 


158 


TBAIL  TO  TANANA  QLACIER   VIA  COPPER  HIVER. 

This  trail  leaves  the  main  Tanana  trail  at  a  point  where  the  latter 
forks  8  miles  above  Chief  John's  house.  Traveling  south  to  another 
Indian  house  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Zocneda,  you  cross  a  creek  at  the  foot 
of  the  lake  and  follow  the  trail  around  the  right  side  of  the  moun- 
tain to  a  small  fork  of  the  Copper  River,  7  miles  from  the  Zocneda 
Ford.  At  this  point  is  a  cache  built  in  1898  by  Roberts  &  Co.  Con- 
tinuing up  the  creek  for  7  ini  s  the  trail  forks;  the  right  fork  leads 
to  the  Copp«r  River  Glacier,  distant  8  miles.  The  left  fork  twines  up 
a  gulch  in  an  easterly  direction  and  passes  through  a  box  canyon.  It 
cr<^flflp>3  the  divide  at  the  head  of  the  canyon  summit,  7  miles  distant 
from  the  fork,  following  the  corresponding  rjanyon  on  the  other  side 
to  the  west  fork  of  the  Tanana,  9  miles  from  the  summit.  From  this 
point  the  trail  continues  to  the  main  river  by  crossing  the  stream, 
which  in  easily  f ordable  for  horses.  You  then  take  the  trail  up  a  gulch 
due  east,  which  you  follow  to  the  divide  8  miles  distant.  Continuing 
down  the  canyon  you  leave  a  small  lake  on  the  summit  to  the  left  and 
reach  the  main  river  9  miles  distant.  On  the  east  bank  of  the  Tanana 
is  a  cache,  which  can  be  easily  distinguished.  The  river  is  fordable 
at  this  point  on  gravel  bottom,  but  not  above  it. 

■jj^_.^„  — ^rpjjjg  ^j.^.j  .g  serviceable  as  a  short  and  direct  route  to  the 
hetir  .ers  of  Copper  River  and  the  Tanana.  There  is  no  timber  on 
the  divides  or  above  the  canyons.  Pack  horses  can  be  used,  but  should 
not  be  heavily  laden  on  account  of  the  steep  grades  of  the  ascents  and 
descents  from  the  divides. 


TRAIL  TO   MENTA8TA   LAKE  VIA   BACKENKDA. 

Branching  from  the  mam  trail  at  Chief  John's  house  and  bearing 
due  north  this  trail  keeps  to  high  ground,  crossing  the  Suslota  6  miles 
above  its  mouth.  Still  keeping  to  the  foothill3,  it  follows  the  Slahna 
River  to  its  junction  with  Mentasta  Creek.  At  this  point  it  joins  the 
trail  up  the  Slahna  River.  The  trail  then  keeps  to  the  right  of  the 
lake  and  follows  the  bluffs  to  its  head,  where  it  strikes  the  Mentasta 
Pass  trail. 

Notes. — This  is  an  old  Indian  trail,  formerly  extensively  used.  It 
is  dry  for  the  whole  of  its  course,  with  the  exception  of  the  imme- 
diate bed  of  the  Suslota  and  for  1  mile  below  its  junction  with  the 
Mentasta  Creek. 

H.  Brian  Peaiuson. 


■ill 


REPORT    OF    OSCAR    ROHH    ON    ES^PLORATIOK    IN    WRANOELL 

MOUNTAIN  DISTRICT. 


r 


I'i 


GEOLOGY. 

The  str-uctural  problems  presented  -by  the  Wrangell  Mountains  are 
necessarily  too  complicated  to  permit  of  being  solved,  evon  in  a  general 
way,  in  the  limited  time  and  opportunity  which  I  har*.  at  my  disposal. 
Particularly  at  this  time,  when  I  have  had  no  opportunity  to  study  the 
specimens  and  fossils  which  I.  wa«  abl(i  to  collect,  all  that  I  can  otfor 
is  a  review  of  my  field  observations,  hoping  that  they  ma}'  oe  of  somt^ 
use  as  a  preliminary  to  further  work. 

Northward  from  the  Lowe  River  Valley,  the  rocks  of  which  were 
examined  and  reported  upon  by  Schrader,  the  conditions  there  existing 
continued  to  about  as  far  as  the  divide  at  the  head  of  Quartz  Creek. 
Here  were  seen  the  first  signs  of  volcanic  intrusives  and  the  nature  of 
the  rock  was  found  to  change  to  that  of  a  series  of  micaceous  and 
quartzose  schists,  probably  corresponding  to  what  Schrader  has  named 
the  Klutena  series.  The  contact  between  these  two  series  is  approxi- 
mately east  and  west  and  crosses  the  valley  of  the  Kanata  below  the 
mouths  of  Ernestine  and  Fall  creeks.  The  .effect  of  the  change  in 
the  rock  formation  upon  the  topography  is  very  marked.  The  forms 
become  nmch  less  jagged  and  more  rounded  and  regular. 

The  range  north  of  the  Tonsena  River,  so  far  as  examined,  was  com- 
posed of  volcanic  diabases.  Judging  by  the  irregular  arrangeuient 
and  the  similarity  in  irregular  and  much  rounded  forms,  it  is  probable 
that  most  of  the  range  is  of  volcanic  origin. 

At  the  head  of  the  Kotsena  River  are  found  a  series  of  very  regular, 
nearly  horizontally  banded  rocks,  indicating  in  every  respect  bedded 
rock  of  sedimentary  origin.  The  absence  of  any  sign  of  sedimentaiy 
rocks  in  the  bed  of  the  river  led  me  to  clunb  the  mountains  to  ex- 
amine these  rocks,  and,  to  my  surprise,  I  found  them  to  be  amygda- 
loidal,  volcanic  diabases,  much  resembling  the  old  diabases  of  the 
Keweenawan  area  of  Lake  Superior.  These  regularly  bedded  dialiases 
were  seen  to  extend  across  the  valley  to  the  northward,  but  in  the  val- 
ley beyond  they  become  highly  inclined  and  very  irregular.  They 
dip  at  first  very  lightly  to  the  southward,  but  westward  the  dip  becomes 
more  and  more  steep,  and  about  2  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  glacier 
the  bedding  becomes  highly  inclined  and  irregular,  and  these  rocks  dip 
under  overlying  formations.  The  northern  fork  was  followed  for  a 
154 


COPPER   RIVER    EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


loB 


rOELL 


diHtanue  of  about  4  luiloH  through  a  wide  canyon  to  the  foot  of  the  gla- 
cier in  which  it  heads.  The  walls  of  this  canyon  consist  of  much  decom- 
posed and  brecciated  volcanic  rocks.  Just  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier 
there  is  a  heavy  ledge,  probably  a  dike  of  greenish  diabase,  which  is 
thoroughly  impregnated  with  iron  pyrite.  The  iron  oxide,  due  to  the 
decomposition  of  this  pyrite,  stains  the  mountain  side  for  ii  distjince  of 
several  miles  on  the  westerly  side  of  the  glacier.  On  the  surface  of 
tliis  glacier  I  found  specimens  of  obsidian  and  very  vesicular  lava, 
both  red  and  black,  and  large  blocks  of  a  very  regularly  bedded  vol- 
canic ash.  Dikes  of  acid  volcanics  are  very  common.  In  a  felsitic 
mass  near  the  foot  of  this  glacier  the  ''flow  structure"  was  very 
marked.  In  one  dike  of  very  light-colored  acid  rock  the  crevices  were 
filled  with  sulphur  and  cinnabar. 

Aijout  a  mile  below  the  forks,  on  the  northern  side,  was  a  mountain, 
very  smooth  and  regular  in  outline,  entirely  different  from  those  sur- 
rounding it.  Examination  showed  this  to  be  composed  of  a  graiiitiu 
porphyry,  which  disintegrated  so  readily  that  the  entire  moiuitaiii  side 
was  one  tjilus  slope.  This  porphyry  dips  under  the  surrounding  rcKik 
on  all  sides,  and  on  the  eastern  side,  where  the  contact  was  observable, 
itAvas  seen  to  send  out  dikes  and  outlyers,  which  became  finer  in  grain 
and  redder  in  appearance  as  they  receded  from  the  main  mass.  The  por- 
phyry is  probably  a  boss  and  may  readily  be  the  source  of  a  great  num- 
ber of  acid  dikes  seen  to  the  eastward  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier.  To 
the  westward  of  this  granitic  mass  the  diabases  again  appear,  but  the 
bedding  is  here  not  marked,  and,  near  the  confluence  of  the  s(H!ond 
northern  branch  of  the  river,  they  dip  under  sedimentary  rocks  at  an 
angle  of  about  45  degrees.  These  sedimentaries  are  nmch  disturl)ed 
and  fractured  sandstones  and  shales,  very  nmch  seamed  by  calcitic  and 
quartzitic  veinlets.  The  rocks  are  here  so  disturbed  and  so  irregular 
that  no  general  dip  or  strike  could  be  determined.  Below  the  third 
fork,  however,  a  very  heavy  bed  of  conglomerate  appears,  and  this 
strikes  in  a  direction  nearly  northwest  to  the  southeast  and  dips  south- 
westward  at  an  angle  of  30  degrees.  The  pebbles  in  this  conglomerate, 
so  far  as  examined,  were  those  of  sedimentary  rock,  mostly  of  the 
shales  and  sandstones  just  described.  They  were  clearly  waterworn 
and  were  nowhere  found  much  affected  by  stretching  and  flowage.  To 
the  westward  of  this  conglomerate  the  valley  widens  and  I  was  unable 
to  examine  the  rocks,  but  the  more  regular  features  of  the  mountains 
would  tend  to  indicate  a  series  of  less  disturbed  sedimentary  rocks, 
dipped  in  a  general  southwesterly  direction. 

Between  the  foot  of  these  mountains  and  the  Copper  River  are  a 
series  of  low  ridges,  trending  in  a  general  north  and  south  direction 
and  composed  mainly  of  basic  volcanic  rocks.  The  Kotsena  River 
runs  parallel  to  these  ridges  far  to  the  southward  where  it  crosses 
them  through  narrow  canyons. 


156 


COPPER  RIVER  EXPLOEINQ   EXPEDITION. 


Kock8  uro  expoHud  in  many  pla<;08  along  thoChottyna  Kivcr  and  the 
country  to  tho  northward.  Between  the  Chettyna  and  the  mountttins 
is  a  rolling  humiuocky  area  in  which  small  lakes  and  low-rounded  rocky 
ridges  are  very  numerous.  The  trend  of  these  ridges  is  approximately 
east  and  west.  So  far  as  observed,  the  rocks  of  both  the  river  and  the 
valley  northward  seemed  to  be  mostly  of  sedimentary  origin,  very 
much  affected  by  dynamic  action.  They  were  so  much  folded  and 
displaced  that  dip  and  strike  could  not  be  made  out.  One  rather 
elevated  mound,  just  west  of  the  point  where  the  trail  leaves  the  bank 
of  the  river,  is  composed  of  a  rock  resembling,  to  a  very  marked 
degree,  the  magnetite  actinolite  schist  of  the  Huronian  formation  of 
the  Lake  Superior  region.  This  was  cut  by  basic  volcanic.  Local 
magnetic  attraction  was  very  marked  not  only  on  this  hill,  but  through- 
out the  valley. 

The  mountains  bordering  the  valley  on  the  north  are  very  regular 
in  outline,  and  by  their  uniformity  in  appearance  would  seem  to  indi- 
cate uniform  structure.  Where  cut  by  the  valley  of  the  Kuskulana, 
the  first  of  these  is  composed  of  hard-ringing  highly-silicified  grits, 
shales,  slates,  and  some  schists,  all  of  which  are  seamed  in  three  or 
more  directions  by  veinlets  of  quartz  and  calcite.  On  the  second 
creek,  entering  the  Kuskulana  from  the  west,  I  found  a  bowlder  con- 
taining fossils,  some  of  which  may  prove  sufficiently  characteristic  to 
indicate  the  approximate  age  of  these  rocks.  Northward,  along  the 
valley  of  the  Kuskulana,  the  outlines  of  the  mountain  change  very 
rapidly.  On  either  side  of  the  pass,  by  which  we  left  the  valley,  are 
high  peaks  with  smooth,  regular  outlines  and  few  gulches,  features 
characteristic  of  the  granitic  porphyrj'  peaks  of  the  area.  Several  of 
these  were  seen  to  the  northward",  and  between  them  were  exceedingly 
ragged,  craggy  peaks,  showing  tho  marked  bedding  inclined  sometimes 
in  one  direction  and  sometimes  in  another,  and  nowhere  sufficiently 
regular  to  indicate  a  general  dip  and  strike.  From  their  resemblance 
to  the  bedded  rocks  at  the  head  of  the  Kotsena,  only  a  few  miles  dis- 
tant from  this  point,  I  took  them  to  be  similar  and  of  volcanic  origin. 
This  is  made  more  probable  by  the  great  amount  of  volcanic  rock 
found  in  the  bed  of  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  porphyry  peak  to  the  south  of  the  pass 
by  which  we  left  the  Kuskulana  I  found  a  contact  between  the 
porphyry  and  an  arkose,  or  very  impure  sandstone.  I  was  unable  to 
determine  whether  the  volcanic  was  intruded  or  the  sandstone  laid 
conformably  upon  it.  Fossils  collected  from  this  sandstone  may  indi- 
cate its  age.  Eastward  the  same  general  conditions  seemed  to  prevail. 
The  broad  open  valley  which  we  followed  is  bounded  on  the  south  by 
a  group  of  mountains,  probably  composed,  in  a  large  measure,  of  sedi- 
mentary rocks,  such  as  we  found  on  first  entering  the  valley  of  the 
Kuskulana.     These,  on  their  northern  side,  show  the  effect  of  volcanic 


COPPER   BIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


.157 


disturbance.  Along  the  valley  mounds  of  granitic  porphyry  are  fre- 
quent, and  the  entire  range  to  the  north  showM  the  oxveedingly  ragged, 
craggy  outlino,  characteristic  of  the  peakH  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Black- 
l)urn,  both  at  the  head  of  the  Kotsena  and  the  Kuskulana,  and  every- 
where showing  evidences  of  the  iri-egular  ))cdding  there  noted. 

To  the  northeast  of  the  l)end  in  the  I^achena  is  one  of  these  granitic 
boss-like  mounds  in  which  the  rock  has  a  decidedly  younger  appear- 
ance than  that  found  farther  west.  Another  one  of  these  acid  mounds 
occurs  to  the  north  of  the  pass  from  the  Lachena  to  Root  glattier. 
Just  beyond  this,  northward,  is  a  tiat  mesa  top,  the  edge  of  which, 
seen  in  the  vertical  wall  of  an  amphitheater  at  the  head  of  a  small  val- 
ley, Hhows  a  series  of  very  regularly  bedded  rocks  that  can  hardly  be 
other  than  of  sedimentary  origin.  The  bedding  is,  however,  no  more 
regular  than  that  which,  at  the  head  of  the  Kotsena,  was  found  to  exist 
in  volo-anic  rocks.  It  was  impossible  to  reach  this  exposure  and 
determine  its  true  nature.  Photographs  were  taken  which  show  the 
bedding  most  beautifully. 

To  the  south  of  the  path  the  mountains  are  ver}'  ragged  and  irregu- 
lar, and  present  irregular  bands  of  very  light-colored  material  alter- 
nating with  others  which  are  very  dark,  and  may  be  either  sedimen- 
tary or  volcanic.  In  all  probability  there  are  beds  of  both  volcanic 
and  of  sedimentary  origin. 

An  isolated  peak  between  the  two  great  lobes  of  Root  glacier  shows 
the  contact  of  a  light-colored  bedded  rock  striking  approximately 
northwest  and  southeast  and  dipping  northeast  at  about  thirty  degrees, 
overlying  a  dark-colored  massive  rock.  This  contact  was  traced  in 
the  mountains,  both  to  the  west  and  to  the  east  of  the  glacier.  It  was 
again  seen  not  only  in  both  walls  of  McCarthy  Creek,  but  also  in  both 
sides  of  the  upper  Nezena  Canyon.  It  was  impossible  to  reach  the 
mountain  in  the  forks  of  the  glacier,  but  on  McCarthy  Creek  the  heavy 
bedded  formation  was  found  to  be  a  dark  bluish,  exceedingly  com- 
pact limestone  bed  from  600  to  1,000  feet  thick.  Where  first  observed 
it  was  very  regular  and  little  disturbed,  but  in  the  range  between 
McCarthy  Creek  and  the  Nezena  River  it  was  found  to  be  much  con- 
torted, fractured,  and  -folded.  In  the  western  wall  of  the  upper 
Nezena  Canyon  it  shows  great  faulting  and  a  completely  recumbent 
fold,  which  was  noted  by  Dr.  Hayes.  (See  an  Expedition  through  the 
Yukon  District,  by  C.  W.  Hayes,  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  May  15,  1892, 
Vol.  IV,  p.  140.)  The  rock  underlying  this  limestone  was  found  to 
be  a  greenish,  heavy,  amygdaloidal  diabase.  It  is  in  this  diabase  that 
the  Nicolai  copper  vein  is  found  on  Nicolai  Creek,  between  McCarthy 
Creek  and  the  Nezena  River.  The  vein  is  formed  in  a  fault  plane 
near  the  contact  between  the  diabase  and  the  limestone,  which  \s  very 
much  fractured  and  disturbed.  The  contact  between  these  two  series 
of  rocks  which  appear  in  the  mountain  between  the  forks  of  Root 


108. 


OOPPEK   RIVER   EXPLDRINO    EXPEDITION. 


•I 


;l 


!; 


^lai'ior  is  )K>uiiti fully  hIiowii  in  a  iuiiiiIh;!'  of  photo^rupliH  tukun  wowt- 
wai'd  from  tht>  }^laci«M'  and  marked  lH-2,  8,  ^  and  5,  and  in  i\m  inoun- 
tttins  cast  of  the  Nc/ena  it  is  shown  by  21-2  and  8,  while  21-5,  G,  7 
iind  !>  show  folds  in  tho  limestono  on  the  western  side  of  the  Nezena. 
Whil(>  l(H'ally  tlisturlMHl,  as  nottnl,  this  contact  shows  a  very  ixM-sistiint 
strike  and  dip. 

in  the  ranjfe  between  McCarthy  Creek  and  the  Nezena  liivei-  then* 
was  found  to  the  northward  of  the  limestone  and  seemingly  confonn- 
ably  upon  it,  a  jfrc4it  thickness  of  thickly  Ijedded,  very  mi.i  1;  folded 
shale  and  slat*'.  The  effect  of  this  upon  the  topography  is  very 
marked.  The  mountains  composed  of  this  rock  are  charai  terized  by 
regular  pymmidal  outlines  with  f<5W  gulches.  They  arq  beautifidly 
illustrated  in  the  views  numl)ered  19-3,  4  and  5.  From  the  same 
p(Mik  on  which  these  were  taken,  cast  of  the  head  of  McCai'thy  Creek, 
photographs  numliered  10-7,  S  and  I)  t>eautifully  illustrate  the  luulding 
in  the  mnge  to  the  northwest.  At  the  very  top  of  this  peak  a  con- 
glomerate is  found  upon  the  shale,  which  grades  upwarfl  ito  an 
impure  sandstone  similar  to  that  which  is  found  unconform  ■'•';  "i  the 
truncated  limestone  and  volcanics  in  the  western  wall  of  the  Nezena 
Canyon,  opposite  Nicolai  Creek.  At  this  point  the  mountains  pre- 
sent a  flat,  uuvsa-liko  top  covered  with  this  latter  sandstone:  The  suc- 
cession, therefore,  seems  to  be  a  series  of  old  amygdaloidal  diiilmses. 
Upon  these  a  great  thickness  of  limestone,  shales,  slates,  and  sand- 
stone,, and  unconformably  upon  this  recent  sandstone,  which  in  turn 
seems  to  be  overlain  to  the  north  by  more  recent  volcanics.  Dr. 
Hayes  suggests  that  this  limestone  is  probably  of  carboniferous  age. 
The  later  sandstone  here  found  resembles  that  found  just  oast  of  the 
Kuskulana.  Fossils  were  found  at  both  of  these  points,  and  it  is 
hoped  that  they  may  prove  sufficiently  characteristic  to  determine  the 
age  of  the  sandstone.  The  mountains  to  the  south  of  the  exposures 
of  limestones  and  diabases  are  composed  of  light-colored,  often  red- 
dish, rocks,  which  ma}'^  be  the  continuation  of  the  sandstones  and  later 
sedimentaries,  or  they  may  be,  in  large  part,  intrusive  volcanics, 
possibly  l)oth. 

In  the  ridge  inmiediately  west  of  the  foot  of  the  Nezena  glacier  were 
found  exposures  of  a  diabase  amygdaloidal  volcanic,  similar  to  that 
just  described  farther  south.  This  was,  however,  much  faulted  and 
folded,  and  its  occurr(Mice  at  this  point  may  be  due  to  displacement. 
Northv-ard,  and  beginning  in  the  ridge  between  the  two  western  lobes 
of  the  glacier,  ai"e  a  series  of  light-colored,  more  or  less  crystalline, 
recent  volcanics.  These  rocks  seem  always  to  bo  more  or  less  bedded, 
and  constitute  almost  the  only  material  carried  in  the  moi^aine  of  the. 
glacier,  both  on  the  northerly  and'  southerly  side  of  the  summit.  It 
maj'  be  that  it  is  such  rooks  as  these  that  constitute  the  bedded  rocks 
noted  in  the  high  range  from  Mount  Blackburn  east.     On  the  north- 


OOVi  BR  RIVKR   KXI'LORINO    EXPEDITION. 


169 


urn  Mido  of  tho  ^lacur,  alxxit  7  or  S  iiiiluH  from  tho  8Uininit,  tho 
youiijj;(ir  ainy^duloidal  diutHiHOH  })GgU\  to  apiM!ur,  )>ut  tho  niouiituiii 
innni'diately  north  ol  tii«  f(K)tof  th«  jflucier  \h  niad«5  up  of  v<sry  nuuMit, 
cxcuHidingly  vesicular  lavas,  of  l>oth  a  very  dark  and  a  l>right  red 
color.  This  niountahi  proHuntw  tho  bt^ddod  apiMMiranco  and  tht?  poi-u- 
liar  jaggod  tojK)graphy  notod  in  sovoral  pcalcH  on  tho  sununit,  and 
b<Miutifully  illu«trat(?d  in  photograph  23-1.  lloyond  the  valloy,  north- 
ward from  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  in  a  range  of  very  jagged  inoun- 
taiiiH,  HUggeHting  oven  at  a  distancre  highly  inclined,  much  disturliod, 
Ix'ddod  roclcM.  So  far  as  I  watf  able  to  olwervo  them,  those  nK^ks  were 
found  to  ho  of  sodimonbiry  origin.  Eastward,  this  valloy  shows  low, 
mesa  topped  hills,  suggesting  tho  same  origin  as  the  one  noted  just 
north  of  tho  foot  of  the  glacier.  To  the  westward,  tho  valley  narrows 
into  a  gul(4i  leading  to  the  Nabesna.  To  the  south  of  tho  head  of  this 
gulch  is  a  mound  of  granitic  porphyry,  similar  to  that  descrilxHl  on 
the  Chettyna  side. 

About  3  miles  down  the  gulch,  volcanic  rocks,  more  or  less  amyg- 
duloidul,  and  older  than  those  noted  farther  east,  are  found  mingling 
with  and  more  or  less  replacing  the  sedimentaries.  The  general  direc- 
tion of  tho  contact  between  the  sedimentaries  and  the  volcnnics  seems 
to  bo  somewhat  north  of  west.  From  here  on,  I  had  no  opjiortunity 
whatever  to  examine  the  rocks,  but  the  form  of  the  mountains  in  the  Men- 
tiista  Kange  (144)  suggests  that  these  probably  present  a  continuation 
of  thi^  conditions  oxisting  in  their  southern  extension,  while  tho  moun- 
tains in  tho  direction  of  Mount  Sanford'  have  tho  jagged  bedded 
ap})oarance  which  characterizes  tlio  latter  bedded  volcanics  near  the 
glaci(!r. 

It  appears,  therefore,  that  the  rocks  of  the  area  comprise  a  series  of 
sedimentary  formations  ranging  in  age  from  tho  carboniferous  to  a  very 
recent  time,  all  more  or  les;  disturbed  and  displaced  by  earth  ujovo- 
ments  and  ))y  volcanic^  rockh,  ranging  from  old  diabases  and  granitic 
porphyries  to  the  most  recent  lavas. 


GLACIERS. 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  tho  Wrangell  Mountains  are  among  the  high- 
est on  the  continent  and  that  the  low  coast  mountains  south  of  them, 
together  with  the  Copper  River  Valley,  admit  the  moisture-laden 
winds  from  the  coast,  they  present  the  heaviest  glaciation  of  any  area 
in  Alaska  equally  distant  from  the  coast.  Mount  Wrangell,  a  huge, 
smooth,  dome-shaped  mountain, .  i?'  covered  by  one  vast  snow  field 
which  extends  northward  along  the  divide  over  both  Drum  and  San- 
ford, and  southward  not  only  over  Blackburn,  but  the  entire  high 
range  east  of  it.  Tnis  great  snow  field  gives  rise  to  innumera*)lo  gla- 
ciers, covering  the  valleys  leading  away  from  it.  The  largest  of  these 
glaciers  is  found  east  of  Mount  Iftgal,  where  it  gives  rise  on  one  side 


i.  I 


I'M 


160 


COPPER   EIVER   EXPLORTNO    EXPEDITION. 


to  the  Nezena  Rivor  and  on  'he  other  to  the  Tanana.  On  the  Nezena 
side  this  glaciei*  is  composed  of  three  great  lobes,  one  of  which  rises 
at  tlie  foot  of  Mount  l^igal  and  flow.s  directly  east  and  the  other  two 
cross  the  range  U)  the  north  and  again,  joining  lower  down,  form  the 
Tanana  glacier,  At  the  sunmiit  this  presents  one  great  field  of  snow 
and  neve,  through  which  isolated  peak.s  prcject.  Their  southern  faces 
are  usually  l)are  and  their  northern  slopes  covered  with  a  great  mass 
of  snow.  The  siinnnit  of  the  western  lobe,  which  we  crossed,  is  over 
8,000  feet  abo\'«^  the  sea.  On  the  Nezena  side  the  foot  of  the  glacier 
is  heavily  moraine  covered  and  shows  considerable  activity.  On  the 
Tanana  end,  however,  it  is  L.e  from  moraines  and  presents  the  smooth 
(137,  138)  rounded  a[)pearance  chara(^teristi(!  of  a  receding  glat^ier. 

Westward  from  the  Nezena  glacier  and  Ijoyond  two  small  glaciers 
at  the  head  of  the  western  branch  o  ?  the  Nezena  and  of  Mc(^arthy 
Creek,  is  a  many-lobed  glacier,  draining  the  entire  range  !)etween 
Mount  Regal  and  Mount  Blivkburn  and  extending  far  out  upon  the 
plane  l)elow.  This  has  i>een  named  in  honor  of  Socretjirj  of  \Var 
Root.  This  1,-.,  next  to  thi:,  Nezena,  the  largest  glacier  of  the  entire 
area.  The  stream  which  drains  this  area  rises  to  the  surface  as  a  huge 
spring  beyond  the  foot  of  the  moraine.  T)ie  drainage  on  the  southerly 
and  westerly  sides  of  M»)unt  Hlacklnxrn  gathers  into  the  Kuskulana 
glacier.  To  the  wcistwardof  Blacklnirn  and  W'-angell  the  gladers  are 
smaller  and  give  rise  to  numerous  streams  which  carry  the  drainage 
of  this  ai-ea  to  the  Copper  River.  Northward  from  Wrangell  a  lobe 
finds  its  way  into  the  Sanford.  The  lustern  side  of  Wrangell  and  the 
southern  sidp  of  the  range  east  o!"  Blackburn  undoubtedly  contain 
some  large  glaciers,  as  shown  by  the  nature  of  the  Nal>osna  River,  to 
which  they  give  rise.     Those,  however,  were  not  seen. 


e  Nezena 

hich  rises 

ither  two 

form  the 

1  of  snow 

lorn  faces 

reat  niasH 

d,  is  over 

ho  jjlsicior 

On  the 

tie  smooth 

acier. 

1  jflaciers 

VLcCarthy 

c  !)otween 

t  upon  the 

■y  of  \Var 

the  entire 

as  a  huge 

southerly 

Kuskulana 

flac  iei's  are 

e  dvainapfo 

igcll  a  lobe 

;ell  and  the 

Uy  contakn 

a  Kiv(U',  to 


REPORT  OF  EDWARD  CASHMAN. 


in  compliance  with  your  request,  1  have  the  honor  to  submit  the 
following  report  of  my  trip  to  Woods  Cunyoa,  after  the  13  horse.s  loft 
there. 

I  left  Valdez  October  18,  with  four  co'upanions.  One  of  them, 
Charles  Anderson,  made  the  trip  fiom  the  Sawmill  Camp  on  the 
Klutena  River  to  Soldiers'  Camp  on  Low  River  in  one  and  one-iialf  days. 
V-'^'e  had  two  days'  supplies.  The  first  day  we  camped  at  Dutch  Camp 
on  the  Lowe  River.  The  second  d&y  we  stopped  with  the  soldiers,  who 
were  cutting  trail.  The  trail  from  Valdez  to  the  Soldi^jrs'  Camp  was 
\'ery  good.    The  third  day  wo  left  camp  ac  S  o'clock  and  at  half  past 

10  Ave  were  on  top  of  the  divide.  The  trail  up  the  divide  was  clear  of 
brush  and  on  the  top  was  level.  On  our  left  was  a  small  blutf  and  a 
small  lake.  We  were  about  the  middle  of  the  lake  when  we  saw  a 
bear.  We  shouted  at  him  and  he  ran  up  the  blutf.  We  soon  saw  him 
coming  down  on  the  run  and  watched  him  till  he  came  around  the  lake 
toward  us.  We  started  to  run.  I  was  in  front  and  had  the  only 
Aveapon  in  the  crowd,  a  small  hand  hatchet.  We  ran  about  50  yards 
when  1  looked  back  to  see  how  far  away  the  bear  was  and  saw  him 
running  awa\'.  We  were  going  through  the  pass  when  we  saw  another 
bear  sitting  on  a  rock,  but  he  did  not  trouble  us,  nor  we  him. 

Wo  arrived  at  the  banks  of  a  large  river  at  1  o'clock.  We  camped 
for  the  rest  of  the  day  and  looked  for  some  flour  which  the  soldiers  told 
us  was  there.  We  could  find  none,  and  the  next  A&y  l)roke  camp  at  8 
o'clock.  AVe  went  down  the  valley  about  2  miles  and  started  through  a 
small  canyon  to  our  left.  In  going  through  the  canyon  we  broke 
through  the  ice  several  times,  my  boots  getting  full  of  water,  and  Avhen 
we  got  through  the  canyon  we  found  a  small  glac'ier.     It  took  us  from 

11  until  4  o'clock  to  cross  it.  We  traveled  through  2  feet  of  snow.  It 
was  snowing  all  the  time.  When  we  got  off  the  glacier  we  fomid  our- 
selves in  H  .small  vallej^  all  rocks.  We  could  not  go  any  farther,  as  it 
was  dark.  We  walked  around  a  large  rock  all  night.  We  started  at 
daylight  and  at  10  o'clock  we  found  some  wood.  We  built  a  fire  to 
thaw  ourselves  out.  It  took  half  an  hour  to  get  my  boots  ofl'  and  I 
found  all  the  toes  of  my  left  foot  and  the  big  toe  of  mj'  right  foot 
frozen.  We  rubbed  them  with  snow  and  then  started  down  the  valley. 
It  commenced  to  ^now  and  we  could  not  see  10  yards  ahead.  We 
traveled  for  four  and  one-half  hours  and  came  back  to  our  camp  fire 

161 

S.  Doc.  30b 11 


162 


COPPER    RIVEE   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


agnii?.  About  this  time  we  came  to  the  conclusion  we  were  lost,  as 
AndersOii  «'ould  not  tell  where  he  was.  In  the  morning  we  climbed  the 
mountain,  but  could  not  sec  on  account  of  the  weather.  We  lost 
several  days  in  that  waj'. 

One  clear  day  while  I  was  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  I  saw  a  large 
lake.  I  told  the  rest  of  my  companions  that  we  had  better  go  to  the 
lake  and  we  would  find  out  where  we  were.  We  started  down  a  stream 
which  came  from  the  glacier.  We  crossed  and  followed  it  for  sev^eml 
days.  We  walked  on  the  ice,  as  the  stream  was  freezing  up.  Streams 
freeze  from  the  bottom  and  then  from  the  side.  In  going  down  the 
stream  we  saw  the  tracks  of  bear  and  wolverines  in  the  snow.  We 
also  saw  tracks  where  the  bear  had  been  fishing  for  salmon.  Both 
stream  and  lake  were  full  of  large  salmon.  We  saw  nine  bears  in  the 
woods.  It  took  us  one  da}'  to  walk  around  the  lake,  when  I  struck  a 
tmil  which  I  recognized  as  the  Quartz  Creek  trail.  We  were  so  weak 
at  this  time  that  we  could  hardly  travel:  but  when  I  told  the  boys  we 
could  get  to  the  rapids  in  a  day,  it  braced  them  up:  but  it  took  us  a  day 
aTid  a  half  to  get  there.  When  we  arrived  at  the  camp  the  people 
could  not  do  enough  for  us.  Through  the  kindness  of  Dr.  Townsend, 
who  doctored  my  toes,  and  Mr.  Fishline,  who  gave  us  provisions, 
we  were  soon  on  our  feet  again.  My  companions  stopped  here  and  1 
left  for  Copper  Center.  We  were  eight  days  without  a  thing  to  eat. 
We  saw  11  bears.  It  took  us  eleven  days  to  make  the  trip.  I  could  do 
it  over  again  in  four  days.  We  kept  walking  too  much  to  the  north- 
west. It  is  my  opinion  that  you  can  make,  a  good  trail  to  Copper 
River  via  Low  River. 

I  left  Copper  Center  November  1,  with  Jack  Stewart  and  Joe  Ham. 
We  were  two  days  getting  to  Nicolai's  No.  2's  wigwam.  We  stopped 
here  about  two  hours.  1  took  out  the  uniform  you  gave  me  to  give  to 
Nicolai  and  gave  it  to  Nicolai  No.  2.  He  wanted  it  very  badly,  but 
would  not  keep  it,  as  he  said,  Nicolai  at  Taral  was  "High  you  Chief." 
He  was  tenas  chief.  We  left  Copper  Center  Monday.  The  Copper 
River  was  full  of  slush  ice.  Wednesday  we  stopped  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Kotsena  River  to  deliver  a  letter  to  Mr.  Fritz,  who  was  wintering 
twelve  head  of  horses  there.  We  had  a  hard  tim«  on  account  of  the 
cold  and  ice.  Friday  we  were  caught  in  the  ice  jam.  Our  boat  was 
lifted  8  feet  in  the  air.  We  had  to  take  the  seats  out  of  the  boat 
and  use  them  like  snowshoes  to  get  to  a  shoal  about  100  yards  from 
us,  as  the  ice  was  not  solid  enough  to  hold  us.  We  camped  on 
the  shoal,  and  about  3  o'clock  next  morning  wo  were  awakened  by  the 
ice  moving.  We  were  like  mts  in  a  trap.  Our  boat  was  gone  and  the 
ice  was  moving  all  around  us.  It  piled  up,  cake  on  top  of  cake,  until 
it  was  almost  15  feet  high  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  It  was  ioi'ced 
up  oil  the  shoal  and  stopped  within  3  feet  of  our  tent.  At  daylight 
the  ice  had  stopped  moving  and  was  frozen  solid  enough  to  move 


.     COPPER   EIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


163 


on.  Some  Indians  came  over  and  help«d  us  to  pack  what  was  left 
of  our  goods  to  the  bank  of  the  river.  Where  we  were  caught  in 
the  ice  jam,  the  Copper  River  was  about  two  miles  wide.  We  were 
almost  opposite  the  Kotsena  River. 

It  took  us  until  Monday  morning  to  pack  our  goods  to  where  we  found 
the  horses.  We  found  them  on  the  same  bluff  that  you  saw  them  on. 
They  had  not  moved  off  it.  The}'  had  eaten  everything,  even  the  trees 
as  far  up  as  they  could  reach.  We  found  9  alive  and  3  dead.  One  of 
the  live  ones  was  found  on  the  river  flats  and  it  looked  as  if  he  had 
tumbled  down  the  side  of  the  bluff.  One  of  his  forward  legs  was 
broken  and  a  piece  of  his  tongue  was  hanging  out  of  his  mouth.  We 
killed  the  injured  animal.  Stewart  and  I  left  Ham  to  watch  the  hoi-ses 
and  started  down  Woods  Canyon  <o  lind  a  place  to  cross  over  to  Taral. 
The  Coppe^*  River  was  about  1  mile  above.  The  Chettj'^na  was  open 
as  far  as  we  could  see.  We  found  a  place  where  the. broken  ice  had 
made  a  small  jam.  We  crossed  over  to  Tar  \l  and  found  the  old  Klutch 
from  whom  you  bought  the  fish  when  we  went  down  the  river.  She 
remembered  me.  There  was  also  there  a  buck  who  had  just  come  up 
from  Alaganick.  We  had  a  hard  time  to  make  them  undei'stand  what 
we  wanted.  When  we  asked  them  for  the  saddles  they  thought  we 
meant  Seattle.  They  could  savvy  San  Francisco  and  Seattle,  but  did 
not  know  what  "saddles"  meant.  The  Indian  whose  cache  they  were 
in  lived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chettyna,  and  as  he  had  it  locked  and  was 
away,  we  had  to  wait.  We  took  the  Indian,  who  was  at  Taral,  and 
started  to  cross  to  the  horses,  but  we  found  the  ice  we  had  crossed 
on  was  gone  and  there  was  no  way  to  get  across.  The  Indian  told  ua 
that  Chettyna  was  distant  two  sleeps. 

The  Indian  invited  us  into  his  shack,  which  invitation  we  were  very 
glad  to  take  advantage  of  as  it  was  very  cold  and  wc  had  left  our 
blankots  on  the  other  side.  This  Indian  we  found  could  talk  good 
English,  as  he  had  worked  at  Eyak  in  the  summer.  The  Indians 
treated  us  in  good  style.  They  brought  out  their  chinaware  and 
gave  us  beans,  fruit,  l>eron,  tea,  sugar,  and  lard  for  butter,  also 
baking  powder  bread.  They  also  had  boiled  salmon.  The  old  Klutch, 
in  honor  of  havinf^  white  men  in  her  shack,  put  on  her  best  sack  which 
was  made  out  of  a  red  handkerchief.  She  was  prouder  of  that  and  her 
chinaware  tuan  white  women  are  of  their  seal  skins  and  silverware. 
We  slept  that  night  on  the  floor,  rolled  up  in  a  moose  skin,  alongside 
of  the  Klutch.  In  the  morning  for  breakfast  we  had  beans,  tea  berries, 
and  Klutch's  last  piece  of  bacon.  After  breakfast  Klutch  took  our 
platter,  from  which  we  had  eaten  the  beans,  and  licked  it  clean  with 
her  tongue.  She  then  boiled  some  salmon  and  had  hei'  own  break- 
fast. She  offered  us  some,  but  we  refused  to  accept.  When  we  were 
ready  to  start  she  fell  all  over  herself  tiying  to  thank  us  for  sleeping 
in  her  house.     She  said,  "Tanks,  tanks!    White  man  hi  you;  you  good 


164 


COPPER   BIVEB   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


'.i 


■  i 
■i 

ill 


|i  I 


■ 


white  men  sleep  here,"  etc.  She  was  tickled  all  over  to  have  us  sleep 
there,  as  she  considered  it  quite  an  honor.  She  would  not  let  us  thank 
or  give  her  anything. 

We  had  to  go  down  about  3  miles  from  Taral  in  Wood  Canyon 
before  we  found  a  place  to  cross.  We  showed  the  Indian  the  riding 
saddle  we  had,  and  then  he  knew  what  we  meant  by  "saddle."  This 
was  the  first  time  this  Indian  ever  saw  a  horse.  He  saw  the  horse  we 
shot  and  wanted  to  know  if  we  would  "pot  latch  him"  the  skin.  We 
did  so,  I  letting  him  have  my  knife  to  skin  it  with.  He  stopped 
with  us  that  night,  but  not  very  willingly.  We  helped  him  to  pack 
the  horse  skin,  and  by  the  time  we  had  arrived  at  Taral  other  Indians 
arrived  from  Chettyna,  and  they  gave  us  4  pack  saddles,  2  riding 
saddles,  14  halters,  1  saddlebag,  2  bridles,  and  a  lot  of  rope.  They 
helped  us  to  pack  them  over  to  the  other  bank,  but  would  not  go 
up  where  the  horses  were.  We  bade  them  good-bye.  They  wanted 
to  know  which  way  we  were  going.  We  told  them  down  to  the 
Tasnuna.  They  told  us  we  could  not,  as  it  was  "high  you  rock  and 
five  sleep."  They  would  not  take  anything  from  us,  as  they  thought 
we  did  not  have  enough  for  oui"selves.  They  gave  us  to  understand 
that  if  we  were  short  of  grub  to  come  back  to  them  and  thej'  would 
supply  us.  They  said:  "White  man  ha- low  muck-a-muck.  Indian 
high-you  muck-a-muck.  One  moon  high-you  cold  white  man  no 
muck-a-muck.  Indian  pot  latch  hi-you  muck-a-muck.  In  one  moon 
high-you  cold,  high-you  wind,  white  man  die,"  which  we  found  pretty 
near  right. 

We  had  a  hard  job  to  catch  the  horses,  as  they  were  half  wild. 
We  built  a  rope  corral  and  got  them  into  it,  but  they  broke  through 
three  times.  We  then  felled  trees  and  built  a  log  corral  and  got 
them  into  it.  We  had  to  drive 'them  into  a  corner  and  pile  logs 
around  them  before  we  could  get  the  halters  on.  After  putting  on 
the  halters  we  had  no  more  trouble  except  with  one,  which  it  took  the 
three  of  us  to  put  the  halter  on,  each  one  of  us  getting  kicked.  We 
then  started  down  the  river  over  the  ice,  but  the  horses  could  not  walk 
on  the  ice.  They  kept  breaking  through  and  slipping  down.  We 
started  over  the  hills,  but  after  ten  days'  hard  work  we  had  to  turn 
around  and  come  back,  as  the  country  was  full  of  cauj'^ons  run- 
ning at  right  angles  to  Wood  Canyon.  About  this  time  all  our  sup- 
plies were  gone  except  one  pot  of  beans.  We  used  to  stay  up  at  night 
to  do  our  cooking,  as  the  days  were  so  short  we  did  not  have  time  to 
cook.  It  became  dark  about  half  past  2  and  light  at  about  half  past  8. 
We  cooked  the  last  pot  of  beans  one  night  and  the  next  morning  we 
put  them  on  the  fire  to  warm.  Every  night  we  would  secure  a  rope 
between  two  trees  and  then  tie  the  horses  on  each  side  near  the  fire. 
When  you  pulled  the  halter  of  one  of  the  horses  he  would  pull  back. 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


L65 


and  once  the  horse  pulled  back  and  dropp(jd  down  on  top  of  the  fire  and 
our  beans.  We  could  not  get  him  up  and  had  to  pull  the  fire  out  from 
under  him.  He  was  badly  burned  around  the  legs.  We  lost  our  beans 
and  had  to  go  hungry  all  that  day  and  the  next  imtil  we  came  to  an 
Indian  shack,  where  they  gave  us  salmon  and  tea.  They  did  not  have 
anything  else.     We  slept  in  the  shack. 

In  going  up  the  hill  at  Wood  Canyon  the  horse  which  had  kicked  us 
was  going  up  the  trail  by  himself,  when  his  pack  caught  in  the  roots  of 
a  fallen  tree  and  tripped  him  over  on  his  back.  He  rolled  over  and 
over  like  a  rubber  ball.  We  i^eard  him  coming  and  had  to  hustle  to 
keep  out  of  his  way.  He  went  by  us  like  a  shot,  heels  over  head. 
We  thought  he  would  be  badly  injured  and  took  a  gun  down  to 
shoot  him,  but  when  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  he  was  stand- 
ing up  drinking  at  a  hole  in  the  ice,  his  pack  on,  and  not  a  scratch 
on  him.  The  weather  at  this  time  was  very  cold  and  growing  colder 
every  moment.  Our  fingers  and  faces  were  frost-bitten.  About 
this  time  the  horses  commenced  to  give  out.  They  would  lie  down 
and  not  get  up.  We  lifted  one  up  four  times,  but  he  could  not  go 
over  50  yards  before  he  would  drop  again.  We  were  compelled 
to  shoot  four  horses  in  one  day.  One  broke  through  the  ice  and 
we  were  obliged  to  go  back  alwut  a  mile  and  a  half  to  an  Indian 
shack  to  get  an  ax  to  cut  the  ice  around  him.  We  hitched  two 
horses  to  him  and  pulled  him  out.  Just  as  he  got  out  ho  froze  up  as 
hard  as  a  rock.  The  Indians  at  this  part  of  the  river  were  short  of 
grub.  They  would  feed  us,  but  we  could  not  buy  or  trade  with  them 
for  grub.  We  cut  the  horse  up  and  lived  on  him  for  four  days  until 
we  arrived  at  the  Kotsena,  where  Mr.  Fritz  made  us  stop  for  two  days 
to  rest  and  thaw  out.  He  told  us  it  was  between  35°  and  40°  below 
zero. 

We  now  had  three  horses  and  a  mule,  but  had  to  shoot  one  of  the 
horses  here  as  it  could  go  no  farther.  Mr.  Fritz  treated  us  very  kindly, 
giving  us  all  the  flour  he  could  spare.  He  was  short  himself  and  as  his 
cache  was  at  Copper  Centei  he  could  not  give  us  much.  We  had  lost  all 
track  of  time.  Ho  told  Us  it  was  about  a  week  before  Thanksgiving. 
We  left  Fritz  with  two  horses  and  the  nmle.  We  packed  our  grub  on 
the  horse  that  kicked  us  and  our  bedding  on  the  remaining  horse  and 
the  mule.  The  first  day  in  going  down  a  hill  from  the  Kotsena, 
Stewart  led  the  horse  half  way  down  the  hill,  when  the  mule  slipped 
and  rolled  down  on  top  of  him,  knocking  him  and  the  horse  over,  and 
all  three  rolled  to  the  bottom  of  the  hill  together,  without  damage. 
The  other  horse,  which  we  called  the  kicker,  on  account  of  his  kick- 
ing at  you  at  every  opportunity,  turned  and  ran  back  on  the  trail, 
scattering  oi.r  grub  and  what  was  left  of  the  horse  meat  (which  we 
could  not  find  at  all)  over  the  trail.     I  ran  back  and  headed  him  off 


3 


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11 


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166 


COPPER   BIVER    EXPLOBI^O   EXPEDITION. 


three  times,  but  he  dodged  me  and  got  away.  I  found  afterwards 
that  he  went  back  to  Mr.  Fritz  place  a)x)ut  a  week  afterwards,  and 
that  Mr.  Fritz  cut  the  saddle  off  him  and  turned  him  loose. 

We  found  most  of  our  grub.  It  was  a  very  cold  day  and  the  night 
was  much  colder.  We  made  Nicolai's  No.  2's  house  at  dark  and  were 
very  glad  to  sleep  there.  We  slept  in  a  storehouse.  We  did  not  need- 
our  blankets,  as  it  was  so  hot  we  had  to  strip  to  our  underclothes. 
The  next  day  it  was  very  cold  and  at  night  we  camped  at  an  abandoned 
Indian  shack.  When  we  stopped  we  were  so  cold  we  could  hardly 
light  a  tire.  I  could  not  speak,  as  my  mustache  and  whiskers  were 
frozen  solid.  I  will  say  right  here  that  whiskers  are  a  nuisance  in  this 
country-,  for  in  cold  weather  your  breath  freezes  on  to  therh;  The  next 
day  we  had  nothing  to  eat  except  two  flapjacks — one  apiece — made  of 
flour  and  water.  At  night  we  built  a  big  fire.  It  was  so  cold  we  did 
not  go  to  sleep,  being  afraid  we  would  freeze.  We  had  eight  large 
trees  ablaze.  The  next  day  we  had  one-half  flapjack  apiece,  and  only 
flour  left  for  another  one  in  the  morning.  The  night  was  colder  than 
the  previous  one.  We  built  two  fires  and  stood  lietween  them.  Along 
about  4  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  we  were  half  asleep  we  heard  a 
noise  among  the  camp  outfit  and  looked  out  just  in  time  to  see  the 
mule  eating  the  last  of  o-  ir  flour.  We  got  nothing  to  eat  for  the  next 
two  days  until  we  came  to  Stickwan's  house.  The  Indians  at  this  shack 
could  not  do  enough  for  us.  All  they  had  was  dried  salmon  and  tea. 
They  gave  us  all  we  could  eat.  They  even  tried  to  get  the  horses  into 
the  shack.  They  measured  their  doors  and  then  the  horses  to  see 
whether  they  could  bring  them  in,  but  as  you  have  to  crawl  into  their 
dwellings  on  your  hands  and  feet,  it  was  impossible  to  get  the  horses  in. 
We  asked  them  how  far  it  was  to  Copper  Center.  They  sail  "Ha- 
low  sleep,"  meaning  we  could  make  it  in  less  than  a  daj'.  We  were 
very  glad  of  it,  as  we  were  knocked  out  and  the  horses  were  it  very 
poor  condition.  We  arrived  opposite  Copper  Center  at  4  o'clock 
Thanksgiving  Eve.  We  were  obliged  to  leave  the  horses,  as  the 
Klutena  River  ice  would  not  hold  them.  As  it  was,  when  we  crc»ssed, 
wo  broke  through  several  times,  and  then  had  to  go  up  (jopper  River. 
When  we  got  to  Mr.  Amy's  cabin  they  could  no*^  believe  it  was  us.  as 
they  told  us  it  was  over  65°  below  zero  the  la.'  t  three  nights  when  wc 
stood  around  the  camp  fire.  We  were  so  hungiy  we  ato  supper  at  Mr. 
Amy's  cabin,  then  went  to  Mr.  Fisher's  cabin  and  had  another  good 
supper.  We  still  felt  empty,  so  we  went  to  the  hotel  and  had  another 
supper.     Notwithstanding  this  we  still  felt  hungry. 

The  next  day,  Thanksgiving  (and  we  felt  thankful,  too),  we  brought 
the  horses  over  and  left  them  in  charge  of  Mr.  Flynn.  We  then  started 
for  the  Rapids  Camp,  at  which  place  we  arrived  at  5.30  p.  m.  As  our 
cache  was  at  the  rapids  we  stopped  for  four  days  and  filled  up  on  all  the 
good  things  we  had  to  eat.     We  then  started  over  to  the  glacier  after  , 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING   EXPEDITION. 


167 


some  gram.  It  took  us  two  days  to  get  to  Twelve-Mile  Camp  at  the 
foot  of  fhe  glacier.  The  Klutena  Lake  was  frozen  over.  From  the 
upper  end  of  the  lake  to  the  Twelve-Mile  we  broke  trail  (on  snowshoetii) 
from  1  to  12  feet.  When  we  arrived  at  Twelve-Mile  Camp  the  snow 
was  so  soft  we  would  sink  up  to  our  hips  every  step  we  took.  We 
stopped  at  the  Sawmill  Camp  for  dinner,  and  as  we  broke  through  the 
ice  in  the  upper  river  our  moccasins  were  wet  and  frozen.  They  thawed 
out  while  we  ate  dinner.  In  going  from  the  Sawmill  to  Twelve-Mile 
Camp,  a  distance  of  3  miles,  Stewart  froze  the  bottom  of  his  feet  so 
badly  he  could  not  move  the  next  day.  The  people  at  the  camp  were 
very  glad  to  see  us.  They  heard  we  had  gone  down  for  the  horses,  and 
as  the  weather  was  so  cold  and  stormy,  they  did  not  expect  to  see  us 
again.  1  stopped  with  a  Mr.  Nolan,  of  Jefferson  City,  Mo. ,  who  treated 
me  very  kindly  and  cautioned  us  not  to  go  over  the  glacier.  He  showed 
u»  a  Norwegian  by  the  name  of  Evyan  who  had  frozen  his  feet  trying 
to  cross,  and  who  Dr.  Logan  (who  afterwards  lost  his  life  trying  to  get 
twa  sick  men  out  in  February)  was  treating.  Dr.  Logan  came  in  that 
evening,  and  1  helped  him  to  dress  the  frozen  feet.  He  advised  us  not 
to  try  to  go  over  the  glacier,  as  it  was  stormy  and  cold.  The  doctor 
also  treated  Stewart's  feet.  The  next  day,  while  Stewart  was  resting, 
I  sttrted  to  go  to  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  a  distance  of  about  4  miles. 
It  took  me  four  hours  to  go  about  200  yards.  The  snow  was  14  feet 
deep  ;ind  very  light  and  diy.  I  would  sink  up  to  my  waist  at  every 
step. 

Wht^n  I  returned  to  camp  Dr.  Logan  told  me  that  he  would  not  allow 
us  to  n.ake  the  attempt,  if  he  had  to  stop  and  watch  us  himself.  That 
night  Evyan  died.  I  was  sleeping  alongside  of  him.  The  next  day 
Stewart  and  I  hit  the  back  trail,  as  we  were  afraid  of  getting  caught  in 
a  snowstorm.  Every  snowstorm  averaged  3  or  4  feet  up  there.  It 
was  well  vve  started  at  the  time,  as  the  next  day  it  commenced  snowing 
and  it  was?  a  week  before  anyone  could  get  from  the  Sawmill  to  the 
Twelve-M'le.  We  went  back  to  the  rapids,  where  we  moved  our  cache 
to  Copper  Center.  Christmas  Day  I  parted  with  Stewart,  who  went 
up  the  river  for  Forty-Mile.  I  stopped  at  Copper  Center  for  a  time, 
and  helped  n  friend  up  as  far  as  the  Grakona  River  with  his  outfit.  The 
weather  at  Christmas  time  averaged  35°  below  zero  at  Copper  Center. 
While  I  was  up  the  river  in  January  it  dropped  to  65°  or  60°.  I  froze 
my  fingers  aad  feet  again.  When  I  left  Copper  Center  February  1 
there  were  quite  a  number  of  men  sick  in  the  hospitals  and  cabins.  It 
took  me  five  days  to  get  to  Valdez.  I  spent  one  night  on  the  glacier 
at  the  "fourth  bench."  The  next  morning  I  left  the  "fourth  bench" 
at  8  o'clock  in  a  snowstorm.  It  was  6  o'clock  when  I  arrived  at  Valdez. 
1  stopped  at  "  Uncle  Jim"  Carlin's  cabin.  He  treated  me  very  kindly. 
I  reported  to  Charlie  Brown,  the  quartermaster,  the  next  morning. 


168 


COPPER  BIVER   EXPLOEING   EXPEDITION. 


The  animals  I  left  at  Copper  Center  consisted  of  a  mule  and  a  horse. 
I  also  left  two  pack  harnesses  and  two  halters.  The  mule  died  January 
16.  The  horse  came  over  the  glacier  and  is  now  at  Valdez.  I  left  all 
the  other  gear  at  Mr.  Fritz  place,  on  the  Kotsena,  as  we  were  not  able 
to  carry  it.  Joe  Ham,  who  went  down  with  me,  also  stopped  at  this 
place. 

1  wish  to  say  a  word  of  thanks  for  the  Indians  whom  we  met  down 
the  river.  They  treated  us  most  kindly.  They  would  come  out  3  or 
4  miles  to  meet  us  and  invite  us  to  their  houses,  where  they  would 
share  their  food  with  us.  They  make  excellent  tea  by  mixing  a  native 
leaf  with  English  breakfast  tea.  Thej'  make  their  tobacco  by  rolling  a 
piece  of  gunny  sack  in  wood  ashes.  They  prefer  this  to  our  tobacco. 
Whenever  we  went  to  their  houses  they  would  seat  us  close  to  the  tire 
and  look  us  over.  If  our  mittens  or  moccasins  were  torn  they  would 
take  them  from  us  and  repair  them.  Stewart's  moccasins,  which  were 
worn  out,  Avere  replaced  by  a  new  pair,  made  of  moose  hide  in  half  an 
hour  by  a  Klutch  woman,  who  would  take  no  pay  from  him.  She 
seemed  very  happy,  however,  when  I  gave  her  a  large  safety  pin,  such 
as  we  use  in  fastening  horse  blankets.  Another  night,  after  they  had 
repaired  our  stockings  and  mittens,  I  showed  one  of  the  Klutchers 
where  Stewart's  pants  were  torn  at  the  fork.  She  wanted  him  to  take 
them  off  so  that  she  could  fix  them,  but  he  was  bashful  and  would  not 
do  so.  Before  he  realized  it,  two  Klutchers  caught  him  by  the  arms 
and  held  him,  while  one  pulled  off  his  pants.  He  yelled  at  me  to  help 
him,  but  it  was  such  a  funny  sight  I  could  do  nothing  but  laugh.  The 
Klutcher  fixed  his  pants  in  good  shape,  and  was  well  pleased  when  I 
presented  her  with  three  old,  red  handkerchiefs. 

We  found  them  very  pleasant  and  sociable.  We  would  sing  and  they 
would  sing.  They  knew  such  songs  as  "John  Brown's  Body,"  "  March- 
ing Through  Georgia,"  and  "A  Hot  Time  in  the  Old  Town."  They  had 
some  cheap  accordions.  Some  of  them  had  cast-iron  cooking  stoves, 
which  they  did  not  use,  preferring  the  camp  fire.  The  women  do  all  the 
work.  No  matter  how  often  the  buck  goes  out  he  must  have  a  cup  of 
tea.  When  the  buck  i-eturns,  he  eats  first  and  then  the  women.  What 
is  left  is  flung  to  the  children  and  the  dogs.  I  saw  a  child  about  four 
years  old  fighting  with  a  dog  for  a  piece  of  dried  salmon.  One  of  the 
bucks  became  angry  because  I  took  the  salmon  away  from  the  dog  and 
gave  it  to  the  child.  They  think  more  of  their  dogs  than  they  do  of 
their  children.  I  have  seen  them  stop  and  lift  a  dog  out  of  the  way 
and  then  kick  the  children.  In  cold  weather  the  bucks  live  in  stone 
houses,  about  8  by  10,  dug  out  and  covered  with  logs  and  earth.  You 
are  obliged  to  go  in  feet  firet,  and  when  once  in,  with  ten  or  twelve 
bucks,  who  have  nothing  on  them,  you  are  very  glad  to  get  out.  They 
do  not  allow  their  women  in  the  stone  house,  but  compel  them  to 
sleep  in  the  living  room  with  the  dogs  and  children.    We  always  slept 


COPPER   RIVER   EXPLORING    EXPEDITION. 


169 


on  top  of  the  benches,  over  the  Klutches.  The  only  Indian  we  found 
who  lived  like  a  white  man  was  the  one  we  stopped  with  at  Tanil.  All 
of  them  had  their  own  chinaware  and  a  box  to  keep  it  in.  There  are 
about  eight  or  ten  families  in  each  shack.  The  Indian  whoso  bench  is 
on  the  right  side  of  the  camp  fire  as  you  enter  considers  you  his  guest, 
and  will  feed  you,  but  the  one  on  the  other  side  will  not.  All  tlie 
bucks  are  sickly,  looking  like  consumptives. 

The  women,  as  a  rule,  are  healthy  looking.  They  wear  but  one 
garment,  something  like  a  long  shiii;,  open  at  the  breast  or  as  far 
down  as  their  waist,  extending  a  little  below  the  knees,  and  a  pair  of 
moccasins,  reaching  above  the  knees.  This  comprises  the  dress  of  the 
women  and  children.  The  bucks  dress  up  in  various  styles,  some 
with  mackinaw  cloths,  picked  out  of  the  river,  others  with  what  the 
white  men  give  them.  One  buck  had  on  three  hats,  one  jammed  on 
top  of  the  other.  They  all  have  .45-90  rifles  and  cheap  .32-caliber 
revolvers,  but  no  cartridges.  They  would  not  eat  horse  meat,  but 
took  the  skin  off  of  every  horse  we  shot.  We  found  them  very  hon- 
est. They  wanted  to  see  and  handle  everything  we  possessed,  but 
would  not  take  anything.  The  uniform  you  sent  me  was  as  good  as 
a  pass  for  us.  All  we  did  wad  to  show  it  and  ask  for  Nicolai,  and 
they  could  not  do  enough  for  us.  They  wanted  to  know  if  McKinley 
was  high-you  white  chief.  Nicolai  was  26  miles  up  the  Chettyna  River 
when  I  arrived  at  Taral.  I  gave  the  uniform  to  the  Indian  who 
helped  us  over  the  river  with  the  pack  saddles.  It  was  about  four 
sizes  too  small  for  him,  but  he  managed  to  squeeze  into  it.  The 
Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kotsena  River  had  some  good  pieces  of 
copper,  which  they  told  me  they  got  on  the  Kotsena  and  Chettyna 
rivers.  The  country  traveled  through  down  at  Wood  Canyon  was 
pretty  rough,  but  well  wooded,  with  large  quantities  of  gmss  in  places. 
When  I  left  Copper  Center  for  Valdez  the  snow  Was  about  39  inches 
deep.  At  the  lake  it  was  about  6  feet  deep,  at  Twelve-Mile  Camp, 
about  16  feet  deep,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  I  could  not  get 
bottom.  Judging  from  appearances,  it  must  have  been  20  feet  deep. 
Compared  with  last  winter,  I  found  very  little  snow  on  the  glacier 
when  I  crossed  it.  Coming  over  the  fourth  bench,  where  you  crossed 
with  the  horses  last  summer,  the  ice  ridge  wasn't  covered.  I  broke 
through  in  one  place  between  two  ridges,  and  found  only  2  to  3  inches 
of  snow  bridging  the  crevasse.  While  I  was  in  the  inside  I  did  not 
mind  the  cold  very  much.  I  came  out  to  Valdez  with  the  same  rig  I 
had  on  at  the  Center,  and  felt  the  cold  more  than  I  did  on  the  inside, 
and  they  told  me  the  lowest  it  was  at  Valdez  was  8°  below  zero. 

Yours,  etc., 

Edward  Cashman. 

S.  Doc.  306 12 

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MAY  9,  1899. 


le.-BUILOING  HIRED  AS  COOK  HOUSE  FOR  EXPEDITION.     MAY  9,  1899. 


17.— COOK  HOUSE   i  LEFT '   AND  ADJUTANT'S  OFFICE  (RIOHT)  AT  VALDEZ.     MAY  9,  1899. 


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18.— COMMISSARY  STORCHOU8E  AT  VALDEZ.     MAY  9,  1899. 


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23.— NEAR  THE  FOURTH  BENCH  OF  VALOEZ  GLACIER,  ON  TRIP 
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MAY  8,  1899. 


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30.— SITE  OF  STATION   NO.  2;   SAME  AS  NO.   29.     APRIL  29,  1899. 


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68.— STREAM  FROM  VALOEZ  GLACIER.     AUGUST  16,  1899. 


69.~SAME  AS  NO.  68. 


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70.— FLOOD  PLAIN  OF  VALOEZ  OLACIER.  AUQU8T  16,  1899. 


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71.— VALDEZ  GLACIER  RIVER.     AUQUST  16,  1899. 


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72.— EAST  END  OF  VALDEZ  GLACIER,  SHOWINQ  DRIFT  ICii  IN  GLACIER  RIVER  TRAVERSING 
FLOOD  PLAIN.     AUGUST  16,  1899. 


73.— THIRD  BENCH  OF  VALDEZ  GLACIER.     AUGUST  16,  1899. 


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76.— LOOKING  SOUTHEAST  FROM  VALDEZ.     APRIL  29,  18i9. 


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77.— VALDEZ,  LOOKING  CAST  FROM  QUARTERMASTER'S  STOREHOUSE.     MAY  9,  1899. 


78.— VALDEZ,   LOOKING  NORTH  FROM  QUARTERMASTER'S  STOREHOUSE.     MAY  9,  1899. 


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APRIL  29,  1899. 


80.— VIEW  OF  PART  OF  VALDEZ.     MAY  15,  1899. 


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9^— ROOFING  GOVERNMENT  STABLE  AT  VALOEZ.     8EPTEMBEH,   1899. 


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TION CAMP  NO.  3.     JULY  4,  1899. 

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109.— LOOKING  DOWN  THE  SECOND  QRAVEL  FLAT  OF  THE  CHENA.     AUGUST,   1899. 
The  ridgu  on  the  left  is  the  divide  ttetween  the  C'hena  and  the  KHniilu. 


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110.— LOOKING  UP  THE  CHENA  FROM  POINT  NEAR  STATION  NO.  3.     AUGUST,   1899. 


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TRANS-ALASKAN  MILITARY  ROAD 


MOUNTAIN     DIVISION 


CAPT.W.R.ABERCROMBIE    2^°  US   Infantry, 
COMMANDING   EXPEDITION. 

l^ST  LIEUT.W.C.BABCOCK8  V^  US   Cavalry. 
TOPOGRAPHICAL    OFFICER. 
1899. 

scale: 


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